Gary Lewis

Let's see if this works:

The sleeve covers up a groove in the surface where the seal runs. Gives you a new surface. But only you can tell if you need one as it is really hard to get pics of grooves. Can you catch your thumbnail in it?

Well, according to the OP, that striker does not fit... Hmmm. I can cut the washer off, I guess...but what a stupid design...lol. The Pex tubing approach is what I’ve read works well. Apparently it is stiff enough to return to round after you slit it and pry it on.

Yes, but this was the 1 out of 10. It wouldn't only do it every once in a while, and then it would NOT go w/o moving the truck. So I learned to never, ever park where you couldn't roll forward. Then when the guy took it apart he discovered the reverse gear was broken. According to him that would create those symptoms.

Wow, 36"! I need one of those. My biggest is 24". But then I have air.....

I agree. A ZF5 is a noisy tranny. Mine worked pretty well with bad synchros and a broken reverse gear, which just meant that shifting had to be done slowly and there were times it would NOT go into Reverse w/o moving the truck forward. But a rebuild is expensive. I paid a pro ~$1000 for a complete rebuild on mine, inc parts. But he was moonlighting and using the shop's facilities, so I got a good deal. IOW, it would have been more had it been done "professionally". However, I would have then had a warranty, so I'm not sure which way would have been better.

Only one bolt, but we stripped 3 nuts and drove *nuts right through two heavy washers! You'll be glad to know I used your favorite silver goo inside the eye and on the sleeve. But it still didn't want to go. This is SO much easier when you cut the U-bolts and set the spring in a shop press. How big of a cheater did you have on it??? As for the silver goo, it won't rust.

How many pretzels did you snap? It takes a lot to do that to a 9/16's! But, you did get it. Any tricks?

That is a nice truck, and at a nice price. Someone got a good buy.

Glad you found one. (And, glad I documented what I have so I don't need to look at the springs again.)

Geir - Welcome to the forum! But, you should go to the New Members folder and introduce yourself. And, so we don't have to ask questions each time you should tell us about your truck in a signature. But, to your question, I have DISCOVERER S/T MAXX - SIZE: LT285/75R16. As you'll see on that website, they are 33" (32.9) and require a wheel of 8" in width. So, I assume that Vernon, the PO and the one who spec'd the tires and wheels, bought that size wheel.

I cannot identify that control. The A/C controls all have generic part #'s of 19980, and the heater ones are 18549. So the number's shown on this one don't match what I see in the catalog.

Just in case you miss it, I ordered the stuff from Sky today, as shown in Big Blue's Transformation.

I paid almost $200 a few years ago for a NOS chrome 80/81 grille, so $50 is CHEAP. (And the chrome grille is BEAUTIFUL!) Speaking of that, I mentioned the lack of a chrome grille to the lady at the counter at LMC yesterday. She acknowledged that they don't have one, but has no power to fix the gap. So I hope to talk with the lady I spoke with on Monday some time next week re that awa the other issues raised in the LMC thread.

Yes, that's a problem. And yes, I'd do the "chain, front oil pan seal, water pump..."

Since your box is rated for that current I can't explain what is going on. Given that, I'd put an aftermarket gauge on like Dane suggested. My favorite is a mechanical gauge since you can get them with a 270 sweep rather than the 90 degree sweep of an electric gauge. The wider sweep makes reading them much easier. But they are also harder to install as you have the long tube that has to go through the firewall.

Matthew - It is certainly better than the alternative. As for when it quits being fun, I'll take 98. That gives me over another quarter century. Jim - Good progress! As for the swivel sockets, I have them, but I also have extensions with balls on the ends that swivel pretty well. So they get more use than the swivel sockets. And your theory on screw drivers is similar to mine - slotted from left and Phillips from right. But I have fewer of them and an organizer rack in there, to it appears to have some semblance of order. There really isn't any, but there is that appearance.

Looks like it'll be more like the Bronco II. But, if you aiming at the Jeep.....

Yes, like a bobsled run. "Old age ain't for sissies" is the truth. But, it is the only game in town, and it is still FUN! So I'd stay in the game right to the end were I you.

You ain't seen nuttin yet. I used to hear that the top of the hill is 40 and it is all down hill after that. I don't believe it. The top may be more like 50 or later. But, there's a dramatic downhill section at about 70.

I don't remember what decade boxes are rated for, but there's ~1/2 an amp of current going through the wire and sender at full scale. (As you know, I=E/R and the ICVR's average voltage will be ~5. So 5/10 = .5) Is your decade box rated at that? It has been a long time since I played with one. If not, you may be getting a false reading. I know that the power resistors I bought to use for instrument testing get HOT. Beyond that, I'm lost. I can't see why what is happening is happening.

Yes, you probably found the problem. But, it may not be as bad as you think. I say that because most of my ratchets and breakovers have enough slop in them to account for many degrees. So to be accurate you'd need to take the slack out of the wrench in the same direction both times before marking the shroud. But do as Jim suggested and see what happens when you snap the throttle closed. However, you should plug the vacuum advance or it may cause some movement. And Jim's travails are well documented. However, what he didn't have was a broken off bolt 'cause he went with stainless bolts last time. In my experience the Windsors are really bad about breaking bolts. So, don't pull it down until you have the time to drill out a broken bolt - and go find a replacement.

And, what is "an advanced age"? Might that include 72 and above? Big Blue's P285/75R Cooper Discoverer Maxx ST's are E rated and weigh 62 lbs, not including the wheel.

Forgot to say that I've also talked with Corey Marshall, the GM at the Tulsa 4 Wheel Parts store, and he'll have stuff for me about August 8th. So I'm going back in about then and see what he has.