Gary Lewis

Now that’s funny! 🤣

It isn't moving parts I'm wondering about. But if the lids are truly identical. Just thinking that maybe that test would tell us something. As for the choke kicker, you can verify that with the engine cold by pulling the air cleaner and opening the throttle by hand. And by the time you tried to open the choke that way you'd pumped it several times, so the engine really was flooded. Another possibility: What if the carb has a vacuum on it from the canister? I'm just thinking, and pulling the hoses might tell us something.

How 'bout pulling the hoses off of the barbs to verify that the carb works ok with that lid? As for the hard starting, I'm sure you are thinking like I am - it is flooded. So can you verify that by instead of pumping the gas pedal just flooring it? I assume the 4100 has a choke kicker at WOT, right? With those two data points we'd know a bit more.

Ok, here are my measurements for the holes on the rear spring hanger, all referenced from the front cab mount rivets. But, note that these are NOT precise, regardless of how precise they look. Having said that, I don't think the measurements are critical. I say that because if you are installing a Sky RSK then you can lay out the holes to drill using it as a template. However, note that the measurements in yellow are for the factory 4wd rear spring eye bolt, and will be different on Sky's RSK. I'll try to remember to get those measurements and include them here just for completeness once I get the rear brackets installed.

Interesting. I'll be anxious to see how you do this. Today I'll be measuring where the holes are for a guy on FB, and posting the info here. He thinks he needs it in order to place the rear shackle for his kit he's already ordered from Sky. But, as his is also a 2wd it may get interesting. Sure wish he was on here to document what he finds and does.

I mentioned it because those of us who do have a mechanical pump need the eccentric boss machined and a hole for the drive pin. You can get the wrong set, and you will be WAY in there when you figure it out. Damhik! Never let some counter 'associate' substitute numbers on you. I won't ask. I don't have to. Gotta be frustrating! But glad you mentioned it.

Pretty sure they are using the same frame box for all of the 4wd trucks from 85 to well into the 90's. So if they have a 2wd frame box for the 92-96 trucks it should work fine. But that is something that you'd have to ask Erik: 541-736-3743 and then press 3. And I think he'll ship me a new crossmember early next week to solve the problem with the 55 1/2". By the way, does your frame have holes for the rear spring hanger? Did I ask and forget?

I agree with Jim - double roller. While it may seem overkill, they last longer than the other options. Do it once and do it right. And I don't think there are clearance issues. Any of them should fit just fine. As for the fuel pump, since you have EFI you should have an electric pump, so no worries.

Ok, let's back up a step. If I understand correctly, prior to working on it yesterday it was idling at a high RPM, but after working on it not only did it have a high idle speed but it ran rough and would die within a minute of starting. And the things you did were: Removed the factory temp sender & installed a mechanical temperature gauge Flushed the cooling system & replaced the coolant Replaced the heater hoses and radiator hoses Replaced the alternator belt Changed the oil, and presumably the filter Two things come to mind. One is that with all the liquid being moved around you may have gotten the distributor and/or the spark plug wires wet. If water got into the distributor that could account for the rough running and dying. And if the plug wires are old, getting them wet could do it also. Maybe it'll be dried out this morning? The other is that you have have a loose wire or a wire with bad insulation to/from the distributor or coil. You were working in that area, so maybe one got moved around and came loose or the insulation broke and you have a short? My guess is that you got something wet and it may have dried out by this morning. If so you need to take a look at the plug wires as they may be bad and need replacing. As for tuning the carb, the first step is to figure out if you have a vacuum leak causing the high idle. Squirting brake or carb cleaner around the base of the carb to see if the idle speed changes helps. And checking all the vacuum hoses is another. Put a small hose to your ear and put the other end near each of the vacuum hoses while the engine is running and listen for a hiss. But it could be that your choke isn't coming fully off and the fast idle is still engaged. Or, maybe the idle stop screw is turned in too far. Once you find what is causing the fast idle and correct it we can talk about adjusting the idle air/fuel mix.

Nor did I. Thought it was interesting for that, if nothing else.

I just downloaded a 442 page pdf called Ford Fuel Injection & EEC 1988-1993. And in it as I was scrolling through I found this. Thought you might be interested.

Ok lets think how this could happen? If I understand this the vents that were added are open to the canisters when the motor is off. The stock bowl vents are pretty tall so thinking gas would not be pushed up them to the intake. So the fuel would go to the canisters before the intake no? Now being it did not even try to start maybe it would have taken more than the push to close the choke to get it to light off, read too lean and may need 2 full pumps? I also don't think you needed to swap the non-vented lid when all that would need to be done is pull the hoses and cap the barbs no? Or did the other lid have that small pin hole vent in it? Think he needs to do more testing and report back to us LOL Dave ---- edit: Just thinking all this stuff was made for a different gas blend than we have today could that be a cause of your out come? I wasn't thinking the pressure pushed the gas up the vents. Instead that it raised the pressure in the bowl and pushed the gas through the venturi orifaces and, therefore, into the intake.

I was going to say that I had nothing to worry about, since I was quite careful with the torque the last time I was in there. But I decided to take a closer look at the pushrod cover this afternoon, and darned if it wasn't warped. I suspect that after Cletus was done stripping my transmission filter bolt back in the day he decided to make sure everything was "nice and tight" on the engine. I'm surprised I haven't had more leaks than I have. I was able to get it back fairly straight with the bench vise, but it's of course not perfect. I think I will use RTV on both sides after all. Also, paint hides many flaws: Looking good, Matthew! And I think using RTV on both sides is a good idea. It fills the valleys that all of these stamped pieces have by now and provides a better seal. Just don't torque it down until the RTV sets up.

It's just a flat rail, and none of the holes match those on a 4x4 frame. There's no spring hanger for the frame box to weld to, so I would end up with a gaping hole to fill, in order to fully box the inner frame box. That's what has had me on the fence about this kit the entire time. I'm not bailing on Sky, I don't have time or the skills to build out my own RSK, but I might bail on this kit for the "universal" crossmember since it will save me time and it essentially does the same thing. The appeal for this kit was that it was 100% bolt on, but if I have to weld in a patch to the frame box to make it work for my application, then why not just weld up the F150/Bronco crossmember to the frame? I may be able to adapt the 92-96 frame box kit to work in my application, so that I could bolt up the 92-96 RSK. But if that won't work, then my only option is the "universal" crossmember. Shaun - I would think that the only thing Sky would have to do would be to give you a different frame box for frames w/o the front shackles. And, the dimensions for where to drill the holes, both for the front bolts as well as the rear hanger for the springs - assuming the rear holes don't already exist. I'd think they'd want to develop that box to be able to sell a kit to those of you with 2wd frames. I know that Vincent Wayne Thomason is doing the same thing and is asking me for the dimensions.

I think the stock kickdown linkage can be modified to fit basically any carb. I haven't done it as I just left the linkage off and pulled the shift lever down when I wanted to shift. Anyway, here's what the parts catalog shows:

Yes, scrap what you don't need, and looking at that truck there will be a lot of that. But the tranny, t-case, and axles might be good to have - albeit hard to store.

Amen! If you are going to the extreme trouble of parting a truck out, at least pick one that is essentially the same as yours. The little Ranger is all together different.

Shaun - Don't be too quick to bail. Erik is going to get it right. I'm just the point man that is taking all the arrows. As for the two through bolts on each side, I sorta addressed those in my email to Erik just now, shown below. If he redesigns the bracket to move the bolt hole forward 1 1/8" then there's essentially no problem with those bolts. However, my frame doesn't have any holes, so I'm not constrained to where those bolts go with the exception of where the box is w/in the frame. So, what is different about your frame? Also, there are guys on the bullnose fords 80-86 FB page following this thread. Kevin Durham and Vincent Wayne Thomason (oh wait, Vincent just replied...) are discussing it and Vincent just ordered the kit yesterday and is now hoping Sky doesn't ship his until this issue is resolved. I'm sure it will be resolved, and I'm happy to be the guy that helps them do it.

Well, I think I need to talk to Erik about the issue outlined a couple of days ago. But, I'd like input from y'all in case I'm missing something. Basically, from what I've found today I believe the front bracket needs to be redesigned. Erik told me on Wednesday that when he installed it on one of these trucks the spring hole was too far forward so he redesigned the bracket and moved it back, and that he may have moved it too far. As of now I'm convinced he is right. But please read on and tell me if you agree. As background, once the front bracket is on you are supposed to measure from the center of the factory's rear spring hanger for the front spring to the center of the spring bolt hole on the bracket and then rotate the bracket until that distance is 55 1/2". And where we left that bracket was with the dimension at 54 1/2". But, it looked like I could rotate the bracket another 3/16" before it would hit the radiator support bracket, which would give me another 9/16" at the spring hole, and the plan was for me to trim the bracket away from the radiator support until I got the 55 1/2" measurement, as shown in this pic: However, when I started working on it today it wouldn't rotate that last 3 1/16", so I started looking for why, and found it. The crossbar was hitting the lower front of the frame below the lower front bumper bolt. So I cut a 1/2" strip off where it was hitting, and got it to this, but only got the measurement to 54 13/16". And note that now the weld is starting to be an issue. So more looking, and here's what I've come to. In the pic below you can see that the bracket is pivoting on the bolt. I need 55 1/12 - 54 13/16" = 11/16" more movement, but the crossbar is now rotating right up the end of the bumper, so a whole lot of trimming is going to be needed, which will weaken the bumper support - which is where the 12,000 lb winch attaches. On top of that, as shown below, with any more rotation of the bracket it'll be hitting the back side of the bumper since it will be sticking out in front of the frame. And, since Sky wants a bolt-on kit I believe the flanges need to be redesigned. So I'll send Erik a link to this post and then call him first thing Monday and talk it over with him. But, maybe I'm missing something so please let me know what.

LOL!!! Yes, I can hear those questions coming out. Janey is a grandmother, and would be very apt to ask them. As for Skiatook, tell her it is at the Church of Christ, where the youth group will be selling concessions to make money for their activities. And where Gary is one of the elders. And Gary's only lived in Skiatook for 12 years or so, having retired here from living in Chicago, Wilmington, Delaware, Houston, London, Ponca City, and Wichita. But, he's been around NE OK for a bit as I'm a graduate of the teacher's college in Tahlequah. (Northeastern State for those that don't know.) So, not all that many know of me in town, and fewer still in Collinsville. But I can't answer why have a truck show here. That defies logic. But, it is, has, and will happen - the Lord willing.

Bill - That's good info. Is the Holley the 5200? There's a lot of info out there on it, including this thread on the Classic Opel Community. In it is this info: Assuming using the standard 26/27mm venturi and 270 CFM @ 3", the primaries would be rated at probably something like 125 CFM. So two of them would give you a total of 250 CFM, and that's a reasonable bump up from the 196 of the YF. Then, when you are "on it" you'd have a total of 540 CFM available, which is more than adequate. So, to your cons, the mechanical secondaries would just be something the driver would learn to live with. But the chokes could have the heater hose, or a branch thereof, looped through them. Yes?

My usual - Fel-Pro. Although the last time I did this I got synthetic gaskets, this time they're a rubber/cork composite of some kind. I'm not a huge fan of cork, but I like the look and feel of these so I'll give them a try. As for sealer, just a thin layer of RTV bonding the gaskets to the covers, I'll leave the engine side dry. No plans beyond not having them leak. Agreed, and the cap will come off when the cover goes back on - it's easier to maneuver without it being in the way. But I don't find it a problem during removal and I had just been in there with the pressure washer, so I left it on for protective purposes. Bear in mind that RTV is an excellent lube when not cured. I like to use it to ensure I get a good seal, and put it on both sides of a gasket and then put the gasket and cover in place and run the fasteners in finger tight. Let it sit overnight and then torque it the next day after the RTV has set up. On thin covers, make sure they aren't dimpled from too much torque on the fasteners. If so, gently flatten them with a small hammer before installation.

Good start! What kind of gaskets are you using? Any sealer? Plans?

I don't have a lot of experience with different carbs, so won't have a lot of "recommendations". However, I do have a lot of "thoughts" that I'm more than happy to share. First, let's document here, as I did in the other thread, the difference in CFM ratings for 1 & 2bbl carbs vs 4bbl carbs. The 1 & 2bbl carbs are rated at 3" of vacuum, while the 4bbl's are rated at 1.5" of vacuum. So to convert a 2bbl rating to a 4bbl you divide by 1.414, and to convert a 4bbl rating to 2bbl you multiply by 1.414. Let's take an example. The YF on your truck is supposedly rated at 196 CFM at 3" of vacuum. But if we want to compare to a 4bbl we'd divide by 1.414 and get 139 CFM. Or, to go the other way, one of the smallest 4bbls available is a 450 CFM, and multiplying by 1.414 I get 636 CFM. But a 4bbl is usually progressive, meaning you run on the primaries and only open the secondaries when needed. Let's assume the primaries are 40% of the overall capability of the carb. That means the primaries on the hypothetical 4bbl would be rated at 180 CFM, which is ~1.3 times that of the YF 1bbl's rating of 139 @ 1.5". So the primaries of two of the little 4bbl's would be 360 CFM, and that's ~2.6 times the rating of the single YF currently on your engine. But what if we just went with two of the 1.08" 2150's? They are rated at 287 CFM @ 3", so each one of them is ~1.5 times that YF, and therefore two of them are almost 3.0 times the rating of the YF. In other words, the "little" 2150's are even bigger than the primaries of a small 4bbl. You want to keep the velocity through the venturi up in order to get crisp throttle action, so I worry a bit about two 2150's. But I've read that the 2100's were available in even smaller sizes. However, that brings me to the big difference between most 4bbl carbs and most 2bbl carbs - the 4bbl's are usually progressive and the 2bbl's usually aren't. So, if you could find 2bbl carbs that are progressive then you could have your cake and eat it too. Or, two small 4bbl's actually give you a bit less CFM capability in the primaries than a pair of small 2150's.