Gary Lewis

Yes, checking the voltage and resistance is a good idea. But, the resistance is best determined by checking voltages with full load on. Most modern meters aren't good at checking very low ohms, but are good at low voltages. So checking from the battery's positive post to the headlights, for instance, will show the voltage drop in that circuit - and it will be highest at higher RPM since system voltage, and therefore current, will increase with RPM.

Ok, 2G. Which is what Vic may have since his is an '86 and that's when they started using them. As for the 1G going to 100 amps, yes but what I've been able to glean that was with the ambulance package and that didn't come in the F-Series, only the E-Series. It looks like the F-Series got either the 40 amp or the 60 amp.

Jim - I put the carriage bolt in with the head hitting the piston. But I may have had to turn the head of the carriage bolt down in the lathe to get it through the spark plug hole - I don't remember.

Yep, #1 is a problem. Something is wrong with that cylinder, and most likely the rings.

Thank you for the help both gears have been ordered. This 3 gear set said by 12/4/19 Dave ---- Welcome. Happy to help.

I sent you an email. I don't mind people discussing prices on here, but it just seemed like email was better.

If the outside of the plug was wet it may be that the spark was jumping down the plug to ground. That would certainly give you a miss, but that usually happens under load. Anyway, perhaps new plugs would make a big difference.

Today I got the new front main seal installed in the timing cover, and then installed the timing cover, water pump, and backing plate. However the stainless bolt kit I got from Scott wasn't 100% correct as three of the bolts were just a bit too short. So tomorrow I'm headed out to find three 5/16-18 x 2 1/2" stainless bolts so I can put the sealant on all of the bolts and torque everything down. But, it is all snugged down now so the RTV on the gaskets will have a chance to set up overnight and it'll be ready for finishing up in the morn. And, while I'm out I'll get more RTV as well as more of the Dupli-Color engine primer and DE 1606 Ford Dark Blue engine paint. Then, with the water pump torqued down I can put the "hatchet" on which will protect the front main seal, lay on the extra intake and old valve covers, and paint the engine. Then, while that is drying I'll mark the new damper every 1/4 turn so I can easily find TDC on each cylinder when I'm shimming the push rods.

Jim - You are a busy guy. Cory - Good score! What are you going to do to "clean it up"?

I actually have a pair of L&L's for sale that I took off of Big Blue. They were the nickle plated ones, which are no longer available. But they are for a carb'd 460 and I'm going with the EFI heads which take different exhausts. The only problem I had with them was that the driver's side touched the frame. But the engine was tilted to the driver's side for some reason, and had I stayed with the carb'd engine I was going to put a 1/4 plate between the engine and the mount on the driver's side which would have leveled the engine and moved the header away from the frame. In spite of what people say about leaks with headers, I had none. That's probably due to the 1/2" flange that bolts to the head on L&L's. So I'm going back with L&L's.

Man, #1 and #2 look bad. And #2 looks wet well up the plug. Is it? I'd be inclined to put a new set of whatever plugs it calls for in and see if that doesn't help. But then "read" them in 100 miles or so. As for the compression test, it does seem like #1's rings are well worn. But if the compression went "off the chart" maybe you put too much oil in?

Yes, that set should work just fine.

Oh, I also should have said that a headlight relay harness is highly recommended. Back in the Bullnose era most manufacturers used itty bitty wiring and ran it into the cab to the headlight switch and then all the way back to the headlights. And by the time the juice got there the voltage was decreased well below battery voltage because of all of the resistance in the circuit.In addition, the resistance creates heat which degrades wiring, connectors, and switches so the resistance thereof increases. Which creates even more heat, which...... And many Bullnose trucks have had a headlight switch or the associated wiring fail due to that.But the headlight relay fixes that. It only puts a very small current through the old, skinny wiring and the switch, and leaves the heavy lifting to much larger new wiring and relays. So more voltage gets to the headlights.

Is this when going down the highway or at idle? I ask because one problem with the 1G & 2G alternators is poor output at low RPM. In fact, as Jim said recently, a good 3G will put out about as much at idle as a 1G will at full tilt. The difference is that with low output then your accessories are probably seeing 12.8V as opposed to 14.4v. And that makes a very big difference in the light output of incandescent bulbs. Actually, the calculation is voltage to the 3.5 power, and the little calculator below lets you play with that. But, as it pops up you can see that you only get 2/3 of rated output at 12.8 volts since most bulbs are actually rated at more like 14.4 volts. But that isn't true of LED's. While they drop of in light output it isn't as dramatic. So, a 3G alternator isn't necessary. But it sure helps.

Dave - Glad you got the brakes working well. Obviously that's very important - especially on a truck you'd put so much work and money into. The speedo we addressed on the other thread. As for the gauge, or more correctly the sender, it is hard to believe how poor the ones we are getting really are. They don't last for even a year or so any more.

Randy - Did you use the process shown on the Ignition Switch tab here to properly set the switch up? Documentation/Electrical/Ignition. As for the day, it is beautiful!

Ok, let's try this: If you look at the 2.75 axle ratio chart you'll find that an E100/350 w/a 3-speed manual tranny, meaning 1:1 top gear like your T-18, and 235/75 tires had an D7TZ 17285-A drive gear and a C0DD 17271-B driven gear. That's a 8-toothed drive gear and a 16-toothed driven gear. In other words, they want a 1:2 ratio. So if you go with C80Z 17285-B, which is an 8-toothed drive gear you'll want a 16-toothed driven gear. And that's C0DD 17271-A which is wine colored. Note that I'd do the same calc on the F100/350 but it takes C2DZ 17271-F and I can't find the tooth count for it.

I think we are going to have to limit the number of issues or questions that can be broached in one post. I can't my head around all of those! Ok, let's try this. If you go to the Driven Gear Part #'s tab you'll see that for whatever reason Ford didn't put the 2.75 axle behind a T-18, aka 4MT. So you have an oddity. But, if you scroll down to the 3.25 axle ratio you start to see the 4/M/T. And that tranny takes a C80Z 17285-B which is a 8-toothed gear. And if you go look at any of the 4/O/D transmissions, which would include the SROD, you'll see that they don't use that drive gear. As for a driven gear, the right one for the 3.25 ratio are C0DD-A, or -B, or -C, or C1DD-A depending on tire size. And if you scroll back to the top of that tab you'll see that those are 2A's in the 16, 18, 19, or 20 tooth form. But you don't have a 3.25 axle. Instead you have a 2.75 axle. And here the plot thickens as we have to know the tire size in order to get there. So, if you'll give me your tire size I'll see what I can do to get the driven gear figured out.

No I need all the Intel I can get. I'm hoping to be able to pull the whole Gambit (engine transmission, wire harness etc) out of this van as the van has the 4.9L EFI in it, mate it up with the Dakota digital gauge cluster. But if it gets too hairy that stand alone computer will be my fall back. Some of the speed transducers have a speedo cable output to drive the speedometer. And if I get the Arduino working you should be able to use the Bullnose gas gauge as you may want to change the fuel pump/sending unit to the one in the van. Or go with a comparable pump/sending unit for a pickup fuel tank.

My understand was that it keeps the seat belt/shoulder harness from getting caught on the striker and the door getting slammed on it. But I've not seen anything in writing to confirm that. Nor do I know where I heard it.

Good starting points.

Good find, Cory. Shaun - I agree on the A/C. Just bizarre. As for the Washington state listing, any way to know what it sold for? Did I miss that?

Weekend after is Janey's cousin's reunion at our house. And we have travel in December. How 'bout Dec 7th?

Well spotted! I don't know the answer to that question, but I didn't realize that Ford used a 2-in/1-out muffler. Curious to see what others say.