Gary Lewis

They are check valves, and the only difference I can see is how strong the spring is that pushes the ball against the seat. And that will determine how much vacuum it takes to open the check valve. What is strange to me is that some of the air cleaners had them and some didn't. I would have thought that with the common design that if one needed a check valve they all would have.

Matt - Glad it worked. Just watch the recovery bottle for a few days as it take several hot/cold cycles to finally get all the air out. Jim - Any chance it is evaporation? You are pushing hot coolant into it as the system heats up and everything expands. How long does it take before you notice the level going down?

As an amateur machinist, that might be tough to do. But since the mechanical clutch castings are getting harder to find I think I'd consider it. Maybe bore it and press in a thin metal tube for the bushings to ride on. But I'd look for sintered bronze bushings to replace the plastic.

Looks to be pretty solid, and not a bad price. If someone were wanting a Flareside project it might be a good base for that. Obviously you'd need to get a lot more pics to ensure it is what you want. And the fact that it doesn't have A/C might be an issue.

Interesting. So, early hot-melt glue? How are you going to put them back together?

Notice how the pic, at least, of the E2TE-CHA shows a Carter YFA and the E1TE-CHA pic shows a 2150? That's the issue here - a seemingly minor change in the part number can make dramatic differences in the part. While it is possible that the E2TE-CHA really did come on some 1982 truck, it isn't likely it came on an '81 with the E2. Anyway, I can't tell you want a carb w/a E2TE-CHA tag fits.

Yes, the one in that advert looks just like the Terrapin one, so they may have just bought up the last of the stock there. On Thu, Nov 21, 2019 at 9:44 PM salans7 [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

Done. It now reads: Will that work?

No, this is a fine spot. It now reads: Does that work? And thanks.

There's a lot of force on those parts, so you will want it in there very tightly.

That part number, or should I say partial part number, of E1TE-CHA doesn't appear in the catalog. Which is strange 'cause there's an E1TE-CHA. And there's a E2TE-CGA and a E2TE-CJA, but they are back to back with no CHA or CIA between them.

Thanks. I used Dupli Color's dark Ford blue engine paint and I think it is darker than the paint Ford used. But since your PC'd parts and mine are exactly the same color we'll know when we compare.

Thanks, Dane!

Good luck!

Interesting, Bill. What did the engineers see in the Pacer? Anyway, guess you got them sorted. As for that I did today, I installed the rest of the push rods. And I got it down to kind of an art. I turned the bolt in using my fingers until it suddenly became harder to turn, which was when it was starting to compress the lifter and create the preload. Turn it in with a small wrench from there and count the turns. The goal is 1/4 to 1/2 turn, and a .020" shim takes about 1/4 of a turn out of the preload and a .035" shim takes out just a bit less than 1/2 of a turn. If needed, back off and put the right shim in, and go again. And here are the results: And with that done I turned to the lower plenum, aka intake manifold. But I soon wished I'd made a mask using the intake manifold gasket when I painted the heads as I had a lot of paint I had to remove in order to get down to bare metal. That took a long time to clean up, but when I done it was time to put the plenum on. I'd seen Scott's pic on his FB page about using RTV on the gasket, and here's how he does it, with the caption saying "Note sparing use of RTV to avoid oil creep from the valley into the ports and above." So that's what I did on the inside of the gasket. But I put a similar bead of RTV around the water ports on the other side of the gasket. That took quite a bit of time, but with it done I made a large bead of RTV across the china walls and, with the studs in the corners, I lowered the plenum on. Then I installed the bolts and nuts snug to pull the plenum down into the RTV and I'll leave it over night and then torque things down in the morn. But, here's what it is starting to look like:

You can get the full part # for 9C675 from this page: Documentation/Fuel Systems/Air Cleaners/Air Cleaner Tube #'s. With that you may be able to find NOS parts. However, the check valve in the vacuum line on the snorkel hasn't been listed on the site. So, I've added a new page: Documentation/Fuel Systems/Air Cleaners/Air Cleaner Check Valves. Please check it out to see if it works for you.

Yes, that's the best solution. And one that will probably happen on Big Blue as he goes back together. I have a bag of bushings left over from the mechanical linkage I restored for Dad's truck when the ZF5 went in, so will use one of those if it is the right size.

Congrat's on getting the master on and bled enough to work well. Sometimes that can be an issue that doesn't resolve itself until you've driven the truck for a while and bounced the air bubbles out of the system. On posting, you do have to reply to someone. If the post to which you are replying is the most recent one it just adds your post. But if it is an earlier post yours will show as replying to the earlier post. Regarding the stud, are you talking about part 7A554 in the illustration below? This is found on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Clutches and Linkage and then the Clutch Linkage tab, the Hydraulic tab, and the Illustrations tab. If so, I can think of two approaches for fixing it. First, get a new one. To do that you need the actual part number, which is on the Part Numbers tab. The other is to replace the pin. I say that because it wouldn't be easy to build it up with a welder when attached to the arm. But you should be able to grind the weld off and press the pin out, and then either build it up with a welder and turn it back round in a lathe, or use a G8 bolt the same size and press it in and tack weld it. I did the latter on a mechanical linkage and it worked well.

Welcome, Jim.

Right you are! I hadn't looked for body plugs for quite some time, but sure enough Amazon has a bunch of them. Here's a link that might help: https://www.amazon.com/Piece-Flush-Mount-Black-Assortment/dp/B00PP7XU1E

Remember that my goal is to drive the wheels off this thing, and gas consumption is a concern. (Notice I didn't use the terms "economy" and "460" in the same sentence.) I assume that consumption is somewhat proportional to cubic inches, all else being equal. Scotty keeps assuring me that while I have a "built 400", and I've described to him what it is, I'm gonna like this 460 better. He knows how I'm going to use it and is confident that I'm not going to be wanting for more power.

Oh, I forgot. I did daub the Permatex into the end of the open keyway on the spacer after it was installed, although I'm confident that the quantity I put on the key and in the keyway before I installed it will have sealed it. And I say "daub" as the container for the Permatex was a plastic bottle with a brush on the lid. But, the lid was Permatex'd on and was NOT coming off. So I cut the neck off and used the brush for daubing. And I did lube the crank's snout with grease for the installation of the balancer. Plus, I lubed the threads of the crank bolt for the installation.

Squirt it in the end of the keyway, that you can still see? Grease on the face of the spacer that contacts the damper could preclude rust, and difficult removal. Pretty damper! What exactly is that? Yes, we'd still be analyzing. The damper is a Scat SCA8008. I got it from Scotty, but that writeup at CNC Motorsports is the best I could find for it. And, as an example of analyzing, I got ready to put the 1/4 turn marks on it yesterday: Measured its diameter with the calipers; did the calculation of circumference from diameter; divided that by 4; turned the decimal result into 64's of an inch; got the flat tape I have put back that easily conforms to round things; laid it on the TDC mark and found the 1/4 turn point - with a nice factory-scribed mark under it.

Pete - If by "profile" you mean your signature then you are close and you know how to do it. But if you mean a link in your sig to a post where you tell more about yourself and your truck that's a different story, and if that's the case then you need to follow the suggestion here. Bummer on the snapped bolt!

Yes, I think the mile-based ones stayed at 5 until maybe '87.