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Gary Lewis

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Everything posted by Gary Lewis

  1. You hit the jackpot!!!! The shop is going to be transformed.
  2. Frank - That's a good question. I believe they are four of the power feeds to the fuse box, as shown below from the 1981 EVTM. But which they are I don't know. I can't get to the shop now to check out a fuse box, but maybe someone else can? But I don't think they are for adding circuits.
  3. This isn’t pretty, but I think it will work. When the headlight switch comes on the low beam relay comes in. When the headlight switch is on and the high beam has power on the dimmer has power the high beam relay comes in.
  4. I’ll have to sit down and draw it up, but you should only need two relays. One brings both low beams on with the light switch, and the other brings both high beams on from the dimmer. Will be later before I can do that though
  5. Interesting - did a search for D3AZ 14474-G, which the catalog says is a "Snap on (female)-for 18 or 20 gauge wire", and found a hit on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Female-Blade-Terminals-20-18-D5AB-14474-FA/dp/B0040CVTTU. And this pic: Maybe this won't be too hard.
  6. I'll do some research on what is in the MPC and work on how to present it. But please take plenty of pics as you work through it and maybe we can match them up to part numbers for documentation purposes.
  7. My personal opinion is that keeping them at least somewhat original in appearance keeps the resale higher, should you ever decide to sell it. I don't think they need to be kept in numbers-matching original condition, but as you say clean and running strong and it will keep the value as high as possible. I'm not one to keep things original. Dad's truck will have the "original" engine but it'll have 400 HP engine with EEC-V EFI, E4OD transmission, bucket seats, etc. And Big Blue will have a stout 460 with EEC-V EFI, ZF5 transmission, 1995 D60 front axle, etc. But the theme running through all of that is that I'm using Ford parts. So not too many will realize that it isn't "stock", and these changes make the trucks more fun to drive and more useful. So I'd say do what you want to do. Make it your truck. As you say, these trucks aren't going to be collectors items that need to be numbers-matching. In fact, for the most part there aren't any numbers to match.
  8. Mark - Big Blue has had Bilsteins all 'round, but don't know if they are helping the ride as the springs don't flex much. Hopefully the changes I'm making on springs will fix that, but am going back with Bilsteins. Cory - You have me thinking about tinting the rear window now. The sun certainly does scorch the back of the head and neck. Please keep us posted with what you do. Frank - Sorry about your sister. Will keep her in my prayers as well. Jim - You really have quite the project going. Hope you are taking plenty of pics and will post.
  9. Scott - Really good how-to on the hood release. Well done! As for the pictures, one difference between FTE and here is that FTE doesn't house the pics. They have a link to the pics so when you load the post the pic is supposed to get loaded as well. But if the pic is gone from its original place it won't load. Fortunately on here Nabble houses the pics themselves, so when you upload one you can then remove the original and the posts will still show the pic. On reinforcing the dash, I've not done that but have noticed the movement when I release the hood. More of a creaking and groaning than obvious movement, but it surely is moving. So anything to reinforce the dash would be welcome and surely can't hurt. Please show us how you do that.
  10. Scott - I'm not sure I understand. Please explain so's I do understand. Looking in the MPC I'm seeing stuff I'd not seen before. Here's an example. Would this help in the documentation?
  11. Shaun - I think there are four different versions for the F-Series, and the 1989/E9 version was available in both black and brushed aluminum which kinda makes it five: 1980: E0TZ 9951868-B: We see this in the PN listing by itself, and it is shown as 1980 only. I assume this would have been in kit E0TZ 99518K00-A initially, and I'm guessing that it looks like its brother E0TZ 9951868-B, which is probably like the one shown in the 1981 accessories catalog, meaning its rear bars went down to the bed ahead of the wheel well. 1981 - 85: E1TZ 9951868-A: We see this in the Kit (Roll Bar) E0TZ 99518K00-A, which means we have a 1980 kit with a 1981 roll bar. I'm guessing that there was an issue with E0TZ 9951868-B and it got replaced but they didn't change the kit's #, although you can't mix and match rear braces as they have 1981 #'s as well. I'd bet this is the one shown in the 1981 accessories catalog with the rear bars going down ahead of the wheel well. 1986 - 1988: E6TZ 9951868-?: From the Kit (Rally Bar) E6TZ 83518K00-? and this is the one shown in the 1986 accessories catalog with the rear braces going down behind the wheel wells. 1989 - on: E9TZ 9951868-?: From the Kit (Rally Bar) E9TZ 83518K00-?, and this was avail in black & aluminum. This is the one you show, and I think it is different from the 1986 version as there doesn't appear to be a bolt holding the lower portion of the rear braces to the upper portion, as there is with the 1986 version. I'm trying to sort through this here on the forum and then want to change the verbiage on the documentation page to match, so let's bounce this around. And, do you have a 1980 accessories catalog?
  12. You are now, literally, on the map. And, hopefully you are Randall as that's what I named you based on the "sent from Randall's iPhone" at the bottom of your message.
  13. That'll work but, as you know, there's no hurry.
  14. WHYDTYTT? Nada. But, thanks to David, I have ordered another brochure that I'll scan in and add to the Documentation section soon. Here's a pic thereof, but the scan should be dramatically sharper - I hope.
  15. Interesting story! I'll bet he's fun to talk to.
  16. Just the guy I have questions for then...once I figure out how to ask them and what I am wanting to accomplish. Scott - Would it be ok to add your pics and part #'s to the page at Documentation/Accessories/CB Radio? Or a link to this thread?
  17. You are very fortunate. I hope the lady is insured.
  18. If that's a 9 inch diff then the retainers have to be drilled or grooved with a Dremel or somesuch until they break. That's my remembrance of what the factory shop manual says, but unfortunately I don't have that section on the site - yet. Anyway, I know that when you get them drilled or grooved far enough they POP loudly and break where you grooved or drilled. Otherwise I don't know that you can press them off w/o damaging the axle. But if it is an 8.8" then I don't know as I haven't worked on one of those.
  19. O2 sensor is monitoring the right hand bank of the 302, and it's pretty close to the engine...probably a bit too close, but it works fine. I'm noticing that the AFR reading is much smoother now that I have the vacuum leak fixed...it was on that same bank, so the AFR was swinging quite a bit previously. We had to run out this evening, so I didn't do much more with it today. I'll spend some time on it tomorrow and see if I can get it dialed in a little better. I can tell that it's already running much better than it was before. With the O2 sensor on one side you'll get a false reading of the overall AFR at idle 'cause you can easily create an imbalance via the idle screws. So I'd just go for max vacuum or RPM and not worry 'bout the AFR. In any event, you've turned the corner on the problems. Hope you get to take it out this winter to test it out.
  20. Ok, tell me about JDK. I searched but didn't find easy answers. Anyway, the issues y'all are finding are why I usually either double the wire over to make it fit or just manually crimp and solder. So I'm following to find the right way to do it.
  21. Yup, 'tis a Fig Newton of someone's amalgamation.
  22. The Triplett Fox & Hound is the only one I've been around. But as I looked just now there are lots of versions thereof.
  23. As I was perusing the MPC yesterday I realized that there were illustrations of a roll bar. So then I looked at the text/part number side and found a confusing set of #'s. Then I looked at the accessories catalogs and was even more confused.So I put together a new page with the hope that y'all will help me figure this mess out: Documentation/Accessories/Roll Bar. Please take a look and help me sort it out.
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