Gary Lewis

I guess I forgot that N=PV/RT. That was, quite literally, 60 years ago.

Ok, so I can use that pic?

Not really. Can I use that pic? Where’d you put it?

Ok, so you agree with the new page? As for the frame, that’s still BIZARRE!

I saw that as well and think it is the MAP sensor. I’m out and about and don’t have access to my ‘82 EVTM, but the online ‘85 EVTM shows this:

That link didn't work, but I think this is it: https://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/d/1982-ford-f150-xlt-lariat-pickup-29k/7043529577.html. Right? If so, it is a beautiful truck. And for $9500 it is a good buy.

Jim - Thanks! That thing sure looks like a clone of the California Air one. And, like the CA, it appears to be modular so I can take it apart and use the pieces. The only possible downside is that we don't know if this one has been run on an inverter like your CA one has. Surely it'll work? The spec's in the owner's manual say it pulls 7 amps when running, which is only 840 watts. And, while I fully agree with you that 4.2 CFM is adequate, how did you figure that 2.1 SCFM @90 IS 4.2 @ 45? I'm not questioning the results, just trying to figure out how to do that? Is there an equation?

I've updated the Roll Bar page, and then added a page for the Step: Documentation/Accessories/Step.

I like that plan. You can pull the instrument bezel and then disconnect the controller to remove the bezel.

Shaun - Might the tubular style have been a 1986 addition? I've added a page (Documentation/Accessories/Step), and that shows the fixed step to have a E6 prefix. But I don't have a 1985 accessories catalog to see if somehow it shows there as well. Do you have that catalog?

My father would have said "If that's a compliment I thank you." Scott - Good documentation, and well done. In fact, with the numbers off the CB unit documented here I see no reason to preserve them. So the brake controller itself is mounted, but the remote will go in the recess to the right of the steering column? Seems like a really good plan to me.

Dave, All good points. I didn't see how the guys in the shop tightened the wheels, but they have been on and off the truck several times, and I personally have tightened them in the correct pattern. That didn't change anything. And, I actually did check the wheels with a dial indicator...just on a flat surface inside the from the outer lip of the wheel, and they seemed to be pretty good. Three of them only had about 0.010"-0.015" variance, and one on the rear I believe was more like 0.030"-0.035" out. Now those numbers seem to be pretty low, and from the little bit of reading I did on the topic, the outer limit seems to be 0.025" variance. I can't see any visible humps on the tires or anything, but there's definitely something wrong somewhere. I think I have one or more egg shaped tires...lol, I just need to narrow it down. Anyone you know have a set of tires and wheels you could borrow to test? If the size is close you could swap a tire on at a time to see if you have one bad one. Or, how about your spare?

Jim - I think you have a good solution laid out using Bob's running light idea as a trigger and then through the fog light switch. And then power the relay off the 87a high beam relay.

Didn’t think of that. I would want to be able to control the fogs separately from the other lights. So another relay that is controlled by a switch and powered from the high beam relay’s 87A or the low beam’s 87 terminal? Do you have room for another relay?

Those are wonderful times!!!

Ahemmm…. Microanalysis. The better news is that my frame is straight and the crossmember slips right on so I can skip about 60 of those 80 pages. I noticed that the upper oval shaped holes in the crossmember line up with already existing holes in my frame. I was worried I would have to measure one hundred times since I don't have the original shackle reference on my 4x2 frame. But it looks like it won't be necessary provided I get the rear shackle hangers in the right spot, and I will thanks to the measurements Gary took of his stock shackle hangers. Yes, microanalysis. But at least you have gotten something from it - measurements. And if you need more you know I can get them.

Cory - That does look good, but you made a mess when doing it. Glad you have some place you can do that and not cause a problem. So, what's next? Jim - I think I'd put the fogs on the high beam relay's 87A. You already have it wired for power, so just have to put a female quick-disconnect on there and be done with it.

I was going to suggest. Yep, that is going to be my approach as well.

80 pages worth. 🤪

Mike - It is the front shaft that is a double-cardan, and that’s because it is a D60 from an F350. It it is a BW1356.

I think I got it at Drive Train.

Mike - The Driveshaft page has Ford's instructions on repairing the double-cardan shaft, and it says "The Bronco rear driveshaft assembly is of the double Cardan type which incorporates two U-joints, a centering socket yoke,and a center yoke at the transfer case end of each shaft." So at least in the Bullnose era you should be able to rely on that. Now for a BW1354 t-case. The Driveline/Transfer Case page has an Applications tab where you can see what t-case came on which vehicle. I see that a 1981 or '82 Bronco w/a 4-speed O/D transmission got the BW1345. And, the t-case is part number E1TA 7A195-FC. Also, that an '81 Bronco w/a 4-speed O/D tranny got the 1345, and its part number is E1TA 7A195-GC. Turning to the MPC there's a table showing the output flanges, seals, etc - shown below. Unfortunately the rear output flanges for those two examples are different part numbers. But, there are other Broncos that came with the 1345 and you can cross-ref them to the chart below. As for getting a flange, I got a front double-cardan for Big Blue, and if you'd like I can figure where I got it.

Jim - I tend to remember the conversation, although I don't think I was part of it. Anyway, coatings are becoming much more prevalent in high performance engines. Tim Meyer is doing some on some of his engines.

Obviously a good idea, Mike. But that saved a problem down the road, and maybe ON the road.

Red/light green should be the ignition switch to coil wire.