Gary Lewis

Yipes! That's expensive. Is there a chance you can find the headliner from a later truck and, at worst case, have it recovered?

I didn't notice that. Like you, I've never seen one like that. Hmmmm, let me Google this a bit more.....

Your automagic camera is the issue. It adjusts every scene to the same overall lighting. So the only way to make it work is to take the first pic, note the aperture and shutter speed used for it, and then set the camera to manual and dial in those settings. That takes the light sensor out of the equation and you get a good comparison. But, I believe you that there is a huge difference.

Do you have the trim above the door that holds the headliner in? See this thread for a discussion of that trim. And here's an illustration from this page (Documentation/Interior/Interior Trim) that shows the pieces that go there:

Jim - I'm seeing more light up as well as pretty much straight ahead, but not much more to the sides. Am I missing something? I guess I expected fogs to light up a wider area?

Thanks Other than sitting the last 4 years and need to go thru the fuel system again, most of the body work done other than after the doors to the rear is done to hardest part is inside. No one makes seat foam and I need it all and the covers I want are $1000 for just the 2 bucket seats and the rear another $1000. Forgot what the door panels cost but not cheap from what I remember. Oh I have to make the head liner as no one makes that either. They say it's only money right? Dave ---- Dave - While this is a Bullnose forum, please start a thread on your Javelin. You are family and we'd like to keep up on what our family members are doing.

The cabs didn't really change from 1980 up into the 90's. So I'm pretty sure the headliner from an '87 Supercab will fit yours. However, there may be some differences in the way the trim above the doors fits, so there may be some trimming. But you don't have the cardboard backing that the headliner upholstery was on? If you have that cardboard you can re-cover it.

But, I hear it was a dog, stock? LOL yes it was but getting 21+ MPG and a little lower pulling the trailer but I lived with it for 100K till it got a little boost LOL Just before the first year was up, had over 12K on it by that time, I had the LS clutch housing go bad and when I was changing that I went with 4.11 gears (from 3.08 I think it was) and that helped be less of a dog till I hit the 100K mark. Dave --- I'll bet the 4.11's helped the MPG as well? The Bullnose era was a time of change. You could see that change was coming, but it wasn't quite here yet. Engines were all over the map, with Ford offering the little 232 and 255, neither of which lasted long, and on the other end of the scale introducing the 6.9L IDI and bringing back the 460. But diesels weren't very impressive w/o turbos, and turbos wouldn't be available from the factory for a few years. And early versions of EFI were just being phased in for some of the gas engines, although it wasn't for several more years before all of them would get it. As for transmissions, the "little" engines had just gotten 5-speed manuals with O/D, but they weren't yet available for the "big" engines - which happened just a few years later. And the autos were either the gas-guzzling C6 with both no O/D nor a lock-up torque converter, or the AOD which was just for the "little" engines. But again, a few years later the E4OD came out and gave us both an O/D gear and a lock-up torque converter. Then there's the interior and options. The Bumps and Dents were mostly metal with a bit of plastic, and mostly utilitarian. The Bullnose trucks introduced a lot of plastic and more upholstery. In fact, by the end of the era even the door panels had fabric on the top-end trucks. And options included power door locks and windows. Basically, pickups were no longer utilitarian.

Yes, Happy New Year!!!! And yes, some resolutions. One of which is: Big Blue will make it to the show under his own power this year. Dave - I envy you having the truck to a point where you can start on the next project. Well done!

But, I hear it was a dog, stock?

No, it's definitely notchy and hard to shift when it's cold, and when I say "cold", I mean anytime that it hasn't been run/driven in a while. After a fair amount of driving...maybe 20 miles or so, it gets much easier to shift and the notchiness goes away. Shaun - I agree with Jim. I'd replace the release bearing while in there, especially if I found nothing else. Good luck! Dave - Have you checked your miles per tank? Do you know how far you can get, and do you have a trip odometer? That's what I've been relying on with Big Blue as the gauge is wonky. Cory - I'd try Royal Purple's Synchromax. Here's what they say about it:

Man, you aren't kidding on that! What was it Arte said? "Interesting, but ????"

Wow! Beautiful! The body is straight and there's no rust. Awesome!

Can't mess it up with bigger cables. You've probably put the little red/light blue wire on the wrong terminal on the relay/solenoid. The later relays have two pins coming out, one for the r/lb wire and one for fuel pump control. The r/lb wire usually goes on the front of the two smaller terminals. Another possibility is that you didn't get the relay grounded to the fender. It grounds through the screws that hold it on, so is they aren't tight it won't work. And another is that you left one of the fuse links off. But if things are working in the truck that didn't use to, then it sounds like you got most of them on.

Congrats! That sounds like a LOT of work, but it seems to have panned out well. (I'm sure you can weld the down-pipe up.) Should make a huge change on your Bronco.

Yep, it looks like you'll have to move those holes. That was an area of concern on Big Blue as well, so I'm familiar with the drill. But Erik assured me that the clamping force of those bolts, 5 if I remember correctly, easily plants the bracket even if you enlarge the holes.

I think a generic one will work just fine. But, I've done some Googling about this. This document cross-references to Tomco's part numbers. If you look, E0AZ 9D448-C, which is Motorcraft # CX-452, is shown as E0AZ-C because the "9D448" bit is common to all Ford EGR valve part numbers so they drop that. So they list it this way. OEM # TOMCO OE STYLE STYLE E0AZ-C 10422 30201 So I'd be looking for a Tomco 10422, and Amazon has one.

Looks great, Cory! Well done. We, too, will be staying in and watching a movie or two. And I'm sure we'll make it to 11 pm - somewhere.

You are now on the map! Yes, it is a BEAUTIFUL area! We've been there several times and never get tired of it.

Michael - Would that be Moosburg? If so, I can put you on the map, or just tell me where. I've been to that area. In Sept of 2015 we visited this church: Oh, and while in Germany we saw these:

Congrat's! That's great!

As you well know, I didn't find it. You did. Well spotted!

Thanks!

Angelo - So sorry to see that. Hope you get it fixed soon.

I don't know, Scott. Don't remember and haven't had the vent windows in or out very many times. Sorry.