Gary Lewis

Many have said that the rubber mats collect water and encourage rust. So I agree that going with carpet is a good idea. I have Big Blue’s carpet out and can take some pics tomorrow if you’d like. What ones would help you?

Bob - The intake is a neat little filter that can be removed with a twist and cleaned. And it threads into the pump. When the time comes I’ll look into sticking it through the box wall on the right side ahead of the wheel well where it will be below the wings of the box and therefore protected. As for air bags, having on-board air will be a real blessing. Will have to decide if I want to run separate air lines or merge them. Thoughts? Jim - The instructions say not to point the fan intake or discharge up. So on its side would work. But I’m leaning to placing it under the seat with ducting to ensure the heat isn’t trapped under the seat and just loop. Looks like the DC cables connect on one end and the AC and USB, awa the switch and LED’s are on the other. I’d point the latter to the back to allow access to the AC outlets. And the ducting on the front would double as protection for the DC cables.

How tall to the top of your CD changer, Bill? And another option is to put the inverter flat on the floor under the seat. The instructions for it say NOT to do that, but I think they are expecting a late model vehicle with no room under the seat. However, our trucks have gobs of space, so if the exhaust was at the back edge of the seat, maybe using a little tunnel to ensure it always is, then it wouldn't be ingesting its own exhaust. Yes? As for the fan, I'll not have 12v at the compressor, but don't they make 110v muffin fans? However, that means more floor space dedicated to it. And I kinda a like having everything protected by a locking lid. Have to put the hose somewhere, so have to get in the tool box anyway.

David - Good idea! Bill - Thanks! The dimensions are (L x W x H) 11 x 9 x 6.25 in and I'd hope to lay it on its side. So I need 6 1/4" up 9". But, the regular cab has a step at the back that raises whatever is behind the seat up a couple of inches or so. Does the crew cab have that step?

If Occam's razor strikes I can unplug from the relay box and replug the compressor directly into the inverter. And yes, the cable from the pump to the inverter will be well grommeted. But it might be #14 SJOW as that's what's on it and I think it'll be long enough. On the tank and tubing, I like the idea of flattening the tubing to make a tab. I think the first thing to do once the compressor is out of the frame is to see if there's a chance that the part of the frame attached to the tank can be used to hold the tank. I'll measure, three times, and then cut off what obviously won't fit. Then I can flatten it where needed to bolt it to the truck. But a saddle mount hung from the bed stiffeners isn't a bad idea. Speaking of rubber, the compressor bolts to the bracket with 4 bolts. So I'll be looking for some isolators to prevent the compressor from using the tool box as a sounding board. And yes, it does show "On FedEx vehicle for delivery". (And for those who don't know, I'm getting a 3000 watt running, 6000 watt starting inverter from Jim, and it is due to be delivered today. Speaking of that, can someone measure the area behind the seat on a regular cab truck? I don't have seats in either of my trucks and it is a big pain to put them in at the moment. But I'm hoping to stand the inverter up behind the seat to provide easy access to the AC outlets for chargers, et al. Its dimensions are 11 x 9 x 6.25 in (L x W x H), so I need a bit more than 6" up at least 9".

I have a switch on the air compressor on my Bronco so I can turn it on from the driver's seat. That's kind of essential in my application. When I'm towing my Bronco I don't want the air compressor cycling when I'm stopped for dinner, or for the night. Plus my "toad" brakes use electricity that I don't want drawn when the tow rig is shut down for a while. So I want to easily be able to shut off both, and popping the hood to get at the compressor isn't "easily". So I have switches for both that I can get at either from the driver's seat or from standing outside the driver's door. Plus with my meager air flow I like to be able to turn on my compressor a little while before I plan to air up my tires. That way I can be starting with a full air tank which takes about 5 minutes off my air-up time. Since you won't be towing Big Blue and since your air-up time will be shorter you will probably weight those factors more lightly than I do. But still, it would be nice to not have to have it on all the time but still be able to turn it on a few minutes before you plan to air up. However, if your tool box is sealed so you need to open it up before running the compressor, then it might be better to only be able to turn it on when the tool box is open. In other words, keep the switch in the tool box. By the way, although you seem to have settled on the bigger, better, louder compressor, there is another argument for quieter, but again it's one that you will weight lower than I do. I use air pressure to actuate my OX locker, so I need my air compressor on several minutes before I need to use my front locker. That kind of planning is too hard to do effectively, so I pretty much just leave the compressor on any time I'm 'wheeling where I might need the locker. Mine is pretty quiet (I can't hear it come on if I'm driving on the highway) so it's not too obnoxious. But it would be bad if it was very loud. I know your current (and probably forever) plan is electric actuation for your front OX. And your rear Truetrac doesn't have any need for air pressure. So like I said, you should weight that lower than I do. But it's a thought. As to having the inverter come on with the key, I think I'd put a separate switch on it. But I don't have any strong reason for that, so I certainly won't try to change your mind. Bob - Thanks. Good thoughts. I agree that it would be good to turn the compressor on before hitting the end of the trail so the airing-up process starts with 200 psi in the tank. But I don't think that the compressor will overheat in the large aluminum toolbox in the 90 seconds or so it takes to pump up from 0 to 200. In fact, it won't take that long as the tank should already be close to 200 from the previous exercise. But, once I get to the end of the trail I'll pop the lid of the tool box to get the hose and get to the connections and it'll have plenty of air. And, yes, my "forever" plan is to use the electric system on the OX locker, so I won't need air for that. But, if I did I don't think this will run often enough or be loud enough to cause a problem. It sat overnight at ~200 psi, so it doesn't seem to leak, and I'm pretty good at making tight joints when I re-plumb it. So it should have air 'most any time. Oh, and another use I'd not mentioned - air bags. I do intend to remove some rear springs and add air bags & Daystar cradles to the rear to help the ride and articulation, but having on-board air will be a big help in leveling up.

Yipes!!!! I was afraid to even look as the Buy It Now button looked ominous! I've added it to my Research and it'll be interesting to see what it goes for. But, I will say that the 20” wheels with Nitto Trail Grappler M/T 295-55-20 tires are a turn-off. My son and I recently talked about the trend to put rubber bands on huge wheels, rendering the vehicle from ever surviving an offroad venture. Yes, I know this wasn't built to go offroad, but it should at least LOOK like it could as it is a Bronco.

Fits these calibrations: CALIBRATION PARTS LIST NO. 136 (Calibration No. 1-51S-R10)-6 Cyl. 300 C.I.D. (4.9L) 1981 F100/150 - - 2/W/D—M/T—Calif CALIBRATION PARTS LIST NO. 181 (Calibration No. 2-51T-R0)-6 Cyi. 300 C.I.D. (4.9L) 1982 E100/ 150 - - M/T—Calif CALIBRATION PARTS LIST NO. 188 (Calibration No. 2-52S-R0J-6 Cyl. 300 C.i.D. (4.9L) 1982 F100 - - C6—Calif. 1982 F150 - - 2/W/D—C6—Calif. 1982 F250 - - 2/W/D—A/T—U/8500 lb G.V.W.-Calif CALIBRATION PARTS LIST NO. 189 (Calibration No. 2-52T-R0)-6 Cyl, 300 C.I.D. (4.9L) 1982 E100/250 - - A/T-Calif

David - Yes, "blessed" is the best answer. I certainly am. Dane - It makes less noise than Janey's little Cambell Hausfeld that she uses to clean her quilting machine. That one isn't fun to be around. I'm hoping that installing this one in the tool box will reduce the noise even further, but it isn't objectionable. Jim - It isn't the pressure switch that's misplaced, but the on/off switch. There's a little rocker switch, the red one in the pic on the left, and it won't be accessible in the installation I have planned. So I'm thinking about placing another one where the sticker is depicting the switch (middle top in the pic on the right). Having said that, there is a Plan B. I'd been planning to use the remote function of the inverter and put a switch on the dash above the radio to turn the inverter on with. But, the max no-load input current is only 1.2A, so I'm thinking I'll just bring the inverter on each time the key is in Acc or Run, and use a switch on the dash to turn the compressor on with. And, to simplify wiring, I'll make up a short pigtail into a box with a relay and an outlet, and plug that into the inverter and plug the compressor into the box. That way the wiring will be short and no mod's need to be made to the compressor's wiring. Thoughts?

Congrat's! You are peeling the onion, one layer at a time. Glad you got that figured out. On the OEM fuel filter, I've cut them apart and the only filter in them is a very coarse screen. I use a plastic see-through in-line filter instead. In fact, I've used two on vehicles with a tank that might let stuff go - one ahead of the pump and one after. But, I've also been stranded by the filters or even the carb getting plugged as the stuff in the tank can keep coming for quite some time. So you might consider replacing the tank. They are only about $100.

Yes, I think I got lucky. That unit lists for $220 on-line. I'm hoping that part of the tubing can be used to mount the tank. And that I can mount the control panel in the tool box above the compressor so everything is handy when you pop the lid. But I'll have to relocate the on/off switch. For whatever reason it isn't on the control panel but the compressor itself. In fact, in the reviews on the HF site there were several comments about that being a problem. So I'll move it or some other switch to the control panel.

I've used this one from Summit and it worked well. They also sell this gauge that works nicely with it.

You may have two problems. Solve one and then address the other.

Edelbrock's literature says not to give it more than 6 psi. If you are running close to that and suddenly back off the rushing fuel could overpower the needle and flood the bowl. I'd put a regulator on it and dial it down to the 5.5 psi Edelbrock recommends.

Looks like a workin' truck. You have weather headed your way, don't you?

Yes, you should sort out the clutch switch. It isn't safe w/o it, although Ford didn't install one until about '84.

So, it does it right after the shift? It sounds like it is flooding out. What fuel pump are you using? Do you have a pressure regulator? I'm wondering if the sudden backoff is causing the bowl to overfill and flood. Edelbrock's don't like more than 6 psi, and it wouldn't take much to cause it to flood.

Welcome! Glad you like the site. We are small, but very helpful and friendly. What part of AZ? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a town/city. How 'bout some pics of your truck? And, you'll want to start a thread about it in the main section to detail what you do, ask questions, etc.

I'm stumped. Let's see what others say.

Wow! That's a lot to get our heads around. But, it appears to me that the transmission is shifting too late on the 1-2 upshift and that then allows the R's to go too high and the valves to float and cause the engine to pop and backfire. So, maybe the kickdown lever is maladjusted? The General Automatic Transmission Service page says: But I don't know what happens if there isn't the "slight amount of movement left".

Dave - That's a lot to take in, so let me see if I can condense it to get my head around it: Drop-Downs: I don't know how to make the drop-downs visible all the time. But I'll check to see if I can, although it will take some time. Go Too Low: This I don't understand. You said "you type something in and it shows but it dose nothing as it should". What do you mean by "go too low"? Too low in the parameter, like tire size? Or to a cell too low? Sorry, but I'm dense. Help! Why not list the gear ratios for the transmissions & transfer cases then list the formulas for the others for speed at what RPM or RPM is the speed? This is another one I'm lost on. What formulas are you looking for? Total Ratio: This I think I understand, but still want to ask some ?'s. Are you looking for the total ratio in each gear? On all of the transmissions at the same time? Yipes, that's a lot of new cells. If that's what you are looking for then maybe it should be on another sheet? Use this one to find RPM and/or MPH, and another to see the gearing? Or, did I misunderstand? So, please help me understand.

Yes, this thing seems to be an odd duck in the lineup. It is branded Fortress, but isn't quiet nor light, like the others. But it went right up to 200 psi w/o struggling. In fact, it shut off a lot earlier than I expected it to. I'm wondering if it might pump very well in the middle psi range. I'll be checking that out on Saturday as tomorrow we'll spend helping at that funeral I mentioned.

Jim - I think I agree, but am still working through things and taking input. As said, the inverter should get here tomorrow and that will let me determine that it'll run the compressor - including re-start it under pressure. And I'll test how long it takes to air up tires from 15 to 30 PSI with the larger tank and higher starting pressure. Overall, this seems serendipitous. I went in for one thing and wound up getting the next bigger one for roughly half the price. And it appears to fit.

That liner has sold, I hope it was to Barry.

Frank - Thanks, but I've already purchased a compressor. Having said that, I didn't get what I went for. (Pour a cup of coffee, pull up a chair, and get ready for a tale.) I went into Harbor Freight fully intending to buy the one Jim and I've been talking about, their 2 gallon Ultra-Quiet 1.2 HP unit that puts out 2.2 CFM @ 90 PSI into a 2 gallon tank and generates 60 dba of noise doing it. And it has a max PSI of 135. The list price is $170 and with Jim's help I had a coupon to get it for $150. They had one in-box so I loaded it into my cart, which took a bit of doing. Then I heard "Sir! Sir!" and looked up and the lady at the register was motioning me over. She whispered that they had the exact same unit back on the open-box table for 1/2 price. A gentleman purchased it, got it home, and decided he needed a bigger one so brought it back. The only downside was that it has no warranty, but I would have 5 days to return it if it didn't work. So I hustled back and got it, placing it on top of the one in my cart and then put the other back. Sure enough, when I checked out it was $88. (The penny didn't drop at that point.) We just got home and as I unloaded it I discovered that it is NOT the 1.2 HP unit. Instead, it is its big brother that is rated at 1.5 HP and it puts out 4.0 CFM @ 90 PSI into a 4 gallon tank and generates 80 dba of noise. Plus, it has a max PSI of 200. I'm not sure whether to be elated or disappointed. I've done some measuring and the compressor will fit neatly into the tool box. Yes, it is 9" wide as opposed to maybe 6" wide for the smaller one, but 3" isn't much to worry about. And the tank is 7 1/2 tall by 18 1/2, so should fit under the fender from what I remember. Plus, the 3000 watt inverter should handle it easily as it only pulls 14 amps when running, although the inverter should be here tomorrow so I can check it out. One downside, other than the noise, is that the tubing that serves as the frame is welded to the tank as opposed to the tank having tabs and being bolted to the tubing on the smaller compressor. Yes, I can cut the tubing off pretty easily, but it isn't quite as elegant. On the other hand, there's no warranty to worry about. So, what do y'all think? This one looks like it'll work pretty nicely and has not only twice the CFM but it pumps up to 200 PSI into a 4 gallon tank. So at full pressure it has 3 times the energy of the smaller one [(4 gallons x 200 psi)/(2 gallons x 135 psi)]. Keep it or return it and get the smaller and quieter one for almost twice as much?