Gary Lewis

I don't find that part number in the catalog. But there are some E2's for 1980 and later, so I'm guessing that part number was removed.

Wow! $699!?!?!?!? But it is nice.

Cheap!

I finally broke down and ordered one of these yesterday. Green Sales in Ohio has a few (they had 5, and now have 4). I was going to make something to replicate the original, but for $25 I figured why not buy an OEM piece. My truck is pretty plain, and I like it that way, but wanted the little lip on the bumper and if it helps in my MPG quests this summer, even better. I have one that I've planned to put on Dad's truck. We shall see. But at 400 HP I'm not sure a little spoiler is going to make a lot of difference.

Abslutely NOT true. The braid is just a straw basket or a Chinese finger trap. Of course it expands. There are a few types of braided line available. Usually for brakes it's a PTFE core with stainless overbraid.(more common now is aramid braid, like Kevlar) What Teflon doesn't do is degrade, get soft and crack like rubber lines do. It is one of the most inert structural materials known last century. Stainless braid was used -dating back to WWII- because it was abrasion resistant, cut resistant, heat reflective, flexible and had a lot more tensile strength than the cotton reinforced rubber line it was protecting. Now, it's mostly used as a fashion statement. Good to know, Jim. I'm not worried about the looks of the brake hoses, but I do like the idea of having ones that will last. My family is not going to ever think about replacing hoses. Thanks.

I hope it comes off w/o breaking something. Just checked and the part # is E5TZ 2B547-C. I can't find anyone who is selling one. Every hit I get on it says No Longer Available when I check it out. And, I found a thread called Brake Proportioning Valve back on FTE. This was back in 2013 and Chris said he only found two outfits that said they had 1 each, but he doubted they could find them. And what you probably don't know is that back then he and I had access to the Ford parts system, so that's really saying something if he couldn't find one. However, one guy on there said his Crewcab F350 DRW's valve works fine and he can lock all 6 wheels up any time. But, can we believe him?

Yes! Or, if they could add a bluetooth function, although there is probably a module that would plug into the 1/8" jack and receive bluetooth. Hmmmm, I think the Firefly might do it. From what little I understand it is powered from the USB port and provides the audio in via the 1/8" jack.

Shaun - I suspect mine will move as the suspension moves and it is hooked to it. But I really don't think it is working given the way the braking is. As said, that trailer just shoved the truck and some tires were sliding. But there was nothing I could do to make it stop faster, and it didn't sound like all 4 tires were sliding. In fact, the rear end didn't even offer to come around. So that tells me the rear brakes aren't working properly, but the shoes are relatively new and there's no leakage. And the master cylinder is fairly new - although it was put on in Florida. Anyway, I don't know how to test it, but if I remove it I won't tear it or any of its attachments up so it can all be put back should I need to do so.

I think I'd delete the load sensing proportioning valve. It seems like I hear that it doesn't work well for people any more. Knowing what it does (dial in or out more braking depending on how much the truck is squatting under a load) and realizing that the amount of squat for a load won't be the same with a modified suspension it makes sense that it wouldn't work like it did when new. That said I think I'd probably put an adjustable proportioning valve on becvause otherwise you are likely to lock the rear tires too easily. So dial them back manually for normal driving. Then you can dial them up when loaded if you want to (and if you remember). And THAT said, this is probably less in line with your goal of, in the end, having a truck your non-mechanically-inclined kids can easily use. So maybe you should put more effort into getting the load-sensing valve working. (But if it were me I wouldn't). For what it's worth (not much right here...) a few years later Ford went to rear wheel ABS to manage this. That works really slick (I had it on my '95 and again now on my '97). As to the braided hose or not, if you don't use the BLSP it's a non-issue. If you do, I'd use the hose i had that worked. I don't think there's enough benefit to braided hose to worry about it, and almost no one will ever see it to notice it's different. On the other hand, you'll know it's different. Is it worth the cost and wait for you to know it's the same? It wouldn't be for me, but I'm not you (and that's OK ) Bob - I'm planning to modify the rear suspension by removing leafs and adding air bags. So it wouldn't seem like the valve could know what the load is since I'm going to level it, regardless of the load. Given that, I'm thinking it has to go, which means we agree. But, I think I'll wait and see how the brake system works to decide if I need an adjustable proportioning valve. And, I'll keep the BLSPV and linkage so I could put it back if I decided I needed to do so. As for the hose, it is the braided hose that will work w/o the valve. At least I think it will as it looks like the brake line at the top of the valve will screw into the end of the line. And, from my limited reading my understanding is that braided lines don't expand like the others do, so the pedal is firmer. Is that not true?

YIPES!!!! $150??? But, they are hard to find, so.....

It is interesting, but not right for Dad's truck.

Pretty! And pretty expensive as well.

Thank you David. I did forget another important one for diesel owners... from 84 or 85 on, the fuel sending unit has a plastic suction foot on it known as the “shower head”. This likes to crack or break off causing it to suck air at about 1/4 tank. This can be replaced, E5TZ-9J306-BA, but it was a poor design. Many owners simply cut a piece of fuel hose to reach the bottom of the tank. You will want to cut a V notch in it to prevent it from sucking against the bottom of the tank and blocking fuel flow. A brass T or 90 fitting at the bottom will accomplish the same thing. A fuel sock to filter debris is a good idea, but depending on the mesh size and your climate it can lead to clogging with gelled fuel in the winter. Gas application sending units can have that problem also as the pore size is smaller. And speaking of debris, if the shower head breaks off and rolls around in the tank it eventually disintegrates into plastic bits which clog and jam the fuel tank selector or passages in the fuel filter head unit. It is a good idea to drop the tank and look inside. Of course it will be heavy because you cannot run it below 1/4 without sucking air, so be prepared to safely lower 5 gallons or more of sloshing diesel. If your shower head is disintegrated and you need to cut a piece of hose, the original shower head length is 3.25” 🙂. Use 3/8” ID diesel rated rubber fuel hose (or better yet nylon). If you are trying to adjust it to nearly touch the bottom, you can remove the tank vent and shine a flashlight inside to see the pick up hose tip. Hopefully this will help someone. https://www.amazon.com/Ford-E5TZ-9J306-BA-Fuel-Pump-Strainer/dp/B0042HBSYE That's really a good tip, Jonathan!

LOL!!!!! Yes, I did but I didn't "twig" as the Brits would say. That's FUNNY! Yes, everything looks good. Thanks. Ok guys, I need some help. I got the longer braided hoses on the front and took the matching hose to the back. But, it is the wrong hose because Big Blue has the Brake Load Sensor Proportioning valve, as shown below, and that takes a different hose. However, in Vernon fashion I have the correct hose as well, albeit not braided. So the question to y'all is whether to: Order the braided hose to use the Brake Load Sensor Proportioning valve Use the rubber hose and the BLSP valve Delete the BLSP valve and use the braided hose, that will connect nicely, I think, to it. You may be thinking "Why would you delete the valve????" But, I ask you to read TSB 89-25-16 BRAKE RIDE HEIGHT PROPORTIONING VALVE wherein Ford effectively says that if the suspension has or will be modified then the tech should remove the linkage and return it to the customer, set the valve at a specific position, and cinch it down so it can't turn. Having said that, I don't know what position that puts the valve in, so it might improperly proportion the brakes. But, I do know that I had the trailer on one day when the trailer brakes weren't working and Big Blue did NOT want to stop it. We almost slid through an intersection. So I'm fairly sure that the something is/was wrong with the braking system. And everything looks good. Hoses, with the braided hose being the one that won't connect to the BLSP valve and the black rubber one will.

LOL!!!!! Yes, I did but I didn't "twig" as the Brits would say. That's FUNNY! Yes, everything looks good. Thanks.

In fact, my version of the MPC now looks like this:

E7HF 10848-B cross-ref's to E7HZ 10848-B. But the latter doesn't show in the catalog. However, E7HZ 10848-A does as a replacement for the back for the clusters with idiot lights. And, assuming that yours has gauges, I'd bet there's an omission on the last row of "r/b E7HZ 10848-B" for the clusters with gauges.

I'd just gotten one delivery so was surprised that there was another. But, here's the first thing that greeted me upon opening the package: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/head-rotfl-57x22_orig.gif Then I found this: Followed by this: So, coupled with this stuff that I've collected lately the scanners will have a lot to do: But, I also found this along the way, and some of those pages are applicable to our trucks:

Dave - See this post on the door patch. And read up to see what Shaun said. On the headlights, there are lots of different H4 bulbs and reflectors. I've read and been told that the Hella E-codes are outstanding, so that's my plan.

Jim already spoke to this. I've used that type of fitting before (on greaseable U-joints that have a grease fitting on each cap). You need a pretty good amount of room straight in front of them to get a straight needle lined up well enough to seal and get the grease into the fitting. I could imaging there might be an angled needle that could work, but I've never seen one. And given how difficult it can be to get a straight needle sealed up to the fitting I think an angled needle would be a lot harder. It looks like you're more onto your other option now. I've never seen anything like that, but it seems like a better path. On the brake hoses, I forget if I've said this here before. But a friend of mine had a guy in his club blow a braided brake line. The theory on the failure mode was that sand had worked its way between the braiding and wore through the hose. My friend was very adamant after that about never using braided brake line. I don't think a lot of it is ever DOT approved. That said I have braided brake lines on my Bronco, but there's a clear plastic sheath over the braiding, so nothing to hold sand grains to let them start working through. And my lines are DOT approved as I recall. Take that for what it's worth... Bob - Ships in the night. The hoses I have all have a clear plastic sheath on them and there's no place for sand or any other grit to get in. But I can see how that would be a problem. On the grease fittings and connectors, I'm hoping the slide-on one will do the trick. We'll see in a day or two when it comes in. (I've forgotten when the many orders that are coming are scheduled in.)

Mid-day report. We are on Plan B for the brake hoses. I installed the Inline Tube hoses, when went easily save for the !@#$%^&* clips holding them to the brackets. I did learn to pull the brackets and install the hoses with the bracket in the vise. And, along the way I found 3 of 4 of the caliper pins. They were in the coffee can with the other brakes parts off the front clip. And, while I'm glad I ordered new ones as these are a bit rusty, they did allow me to trial fit the left caliper. Then I realized that the hoses weren't long enough. In the pic below the shock, which is the limiting link in the suspension travel, would let the axle drop 2" from where it currently is. But the hose wouldn't allow that. So I went back to the attic to look through the hoses Vernon sent and I found another set of braided hoses, including the one for the rear axle. And while these don't look longer, they go on like the factory hoses and are effectively longer. So, Plan B is to install these. Here's one on the left front. VERNON ROCKS!

I think the Common Modifications idea is a good one. One person's necessities aren't everyone's. But many of the upgrades are common.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CO896G/?tag=mh0b-20&hvadid=78546416548024&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_51odmyrxgr_e https://www.amazon.com/Bushwacker-20011-11-Cut-Out-Fender-Flare/dp/B000COC912/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Ford%7C54&Model=F-250%7C667&Year=1985%7C1985&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive David - Thanks, but the detail says: I don't want to cut the body.

Yep, that's a problem.

Nice truck. Straight and clean. And for $2800 it is a good buy. Should be a 351M, which wasn't very impressive. But it can be turned into a 400 pretty easily and that and some compression wakes them up big time. Notice that a truck for which they are asking $2800 has 8 pics? As opposed to another for which they are asking $8000 and only provide 2 pics? Not really serious about selling the Bronco.