Gary Lewis

Sort of explains the $120 shipping cost. I saw the cost but not the location. Nope, not giving my credit card account to someone in Russia.

late production 1982 only: 82 F100/350 — w/o aux. fuel tank "From 3/82" E2TZ 18549-A

Done

Not a bad price at all. And while it is the later style, meaning 1983-86, it can easily be used on the 1980-82 trucks.

Might clean up nicely.

That fits the little Ranger: 83 R — w/standard duty air cleaner "Before 9/82" 4 122,140 E3TZ 9600-B E3TZ 9601-H w/regular capacity element

I agree, that's a great video. And I like it so much I've created a page for it here: Documentation/Fuel Systems/Correct Cold Starting Procedures. However, that worries me a bit as it could go away out there in You Tube land. In fact, if I could figure out how to save it so it couldn't go away I'd do that. Anyone know?

Big Blackie went for $15K the first round, and while he's heavily modified it was well done. Yes, this one is essentially original, it isn't that much better. Maybe $15K?

In this table 2A is Bronco, 2B is F150, 2C is F250, and 2D is F350. And #2853 is the front cable. If I read it correctly they are the same across 150/250/350 if the wheelbase is the same. So it must be the rear cable that accounts for what brake system is in place, and the front cable accounts for the wheelbase. Given that, it would make sense that trucks with larger rear brakes would need more leverage in the pedal mechanism.

Nice, but SPENDY!

Yes, Dane, I did already know that. I am truly blessed, and I thank God for her daily.

Here's my first pass - just before I pass to bed. Looks like it needs a bit of clean up, but the idea is there. And, we'll need to give a # for the relay, a place to buy it, or some such. Plus a fuse holder suggestion. But that's gotta wait for morn.

I’ll have to check that out. My new motor is gonna have an EFI system from Summit but I have the computer my E4OD came with (95 f150). Do you know if it would be possible to control that trans with the stock computer (or a different Ford computer) using that software and the correct sensors/inputs without it controlling the engine? It isn't possible with that ECU since it expects to be controlling the engine. But I'm told you can use an ECU from a diesel with an E4OD to control it. However, I don't know if Core Tuning/Binary Editor works with that. I would think they do but haven't asked. Bill and I are running Ford's EEC-V with MAF and SEFI, which means we can pull into any Ford dealership and get support. Plug a scanner in and know what the problem is.

What tuning software do you use? Do you get into the Ford EEC system or do you have an aftermarket controller like the USShift? The biggest reason I’m hesitant to build that E4OD is having to drop the money on a controller In case Bill's gone to bed, he's running Ford's EEC-V EFI system, and he's used Binary Editor from Core Tuning to modify it. That allows all sorts of control over the EFI as well as the E4OD. And, he has me following in his footsteps. Big Blue will soon be running EEC-V, although the tranny is a ZF5. But Dad's truck is next, and it has an E4OD.

In German, jein. The schematic from the EVTM is busy, with all the other stuff that's on the page and with the reference back to Page 17 - as shown below. Plus, there's no 30 and 87, etc. So, while I fully buy into what you are saying, it is like one EE talking to another EE, and not what is needed in this case. Given that, I'm working on a diagram that uses standard Bosch relay numbering but cuts out all the ancillary stuff. Once done that and your oil pressure switch trick need to be on tabs in the Choke section of the 3G page as suggested ways of dealing with a 12v choke.

I told Janey a few days ago that I was exploring the DIY option on coating the headers, and what the cost of the Jet-Hot approach was. Today I explained what I'd learned about how the DIY approach seemed to be inferior to the Jet-Hot, and told her that I was considering going with the latter because it seemed better and would save me a lot of time, but that the place is less than a mile from the outlet mall in OKC. At that point she was bought in, but when I mentioned the chicken-fried steak place it was "do it!". Yes, she not only tolerates it, she does encourage it. And remember, she is the one that suggested we take Big Blue to Colorado next year and drive the trails around Ouray.

Ok, I'll work on it......

This is what he is talking about trimming. And It may be too thin to do and even it it is you may end up with a gap between the cab and the trim. Junk yards and parts trucks seem to be the only place to find these. I always said if I could get a 3d rendering of this I could probably sell hundreds shipped out with texture and base coat. I don't even know what the one w/o a headliner looks like. Don't know that I've ever seen one, and can't find one in the catalog's illustrations. But, they are shown in the text section, as shown below and soon to be on the Interior Trim page. And yes, if you could get a good 3D scan or drawing you could sell them.

No problem. The email wasn't clear on where to post, although it has now been changed. In any event, you are now on the map.

We have a page (Documentation/Interior/Interior Trim) that attempts to not only show the trim but give part numbers as well as links to information on those parts. But, as I just looked at it I realized it isn't complete by any stretch. So please take a look at it and see if you can tell me what parts you are talking about and if they are listed on the Part Numbers tab. If not maybe I can put them on there. As for cutting and trimming, I don't know as I've not had my hands on a truck w/o a headliner. But others on here have so hopefully they'll chime in.

Welcome to the Bullnose Forum! Before I get into body panels, let me ask if you read the guidelines in the New Members Start Here folder as requested in the email? I ask because people usually post in that folder about themselves, but I see that our intro email wasn't clear about where to post so you may not have caught that. Anyway, if you haven't read the guidelines please do. And, where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a town/city. Perhaps you are close to one of us? Now, to the body panels. Tabco makes the best panels, but I don't know if they have what you are looking for. As for swapping Bricknose onto a Bullnose, that can surely be done as people swap the other way all the time. But I've not done it so I'll let others chime in who know better.

If you don't have the oil pressure switch then the red/yellow wire isn't going to help. I'm thinking that it is time to fall back to the idea of a relay triggered by the stator wire from the alternator. If you agree then I will work on a schematic for that.

Jim - You are right, the prep is paramount and the glaze is special. In fact, that's a good lead-in to my report on what I've found. I've typed and/or talked with a lot of people and have found this:DIY: Justin @ R&D uses Cerakote and recommended it to me. However, he doesn't do the interior of exhaust pipes as he doesn't have a way to prep them, and prep'ing requires blasting with aluminum oxide to give a texture. So, without the inside being coated the effectiveness is limited. And the up-front cost starts to mount up as you need a fairly nice detail gun to apply the material. And the material itself is $110/quart. And then there's the curing, which has to be done at a minimum of 500 degrees and closer to 700 for an hour. Calico Coatings: I got a quote from them for $280, not including shipping. But, they don't do the interior either, saying "It is only coated on the outside because we cannot get the inside prepped well enough for the coating to properly adhere." CCPCoatings: I got a quote for $295-325 plus shipping. And I don't think that includes the inside. OKC: I talked to two other companies in OKC that used to do ceramic coating, but don't any longer. And both recommended HPC. HPC (Jet-Hot): So I called HPC and Roger answered "HPC Jet-Hot." Turns out they merged a few years ago. As previously reported I talked with Debi at their CA facility and got quotes from her. But today Roger, the plant manager, talked with me for 30 minutes. I explained my application and he told me about their products: 1300; 2000; & 2500, with those being the names as well as the temps they can withstand. Roger agreed with Debi that in my application the 1300 might melt. And while the 2500 has the best of the properties it is also essentially porcelain and can chip. So Roger said he thinks the 2000 is the one for me. And, if I come down to pick them up the price for coating them both inside and out is $450. Plus, he'll give me a tour. Having said all that, I'm leaning strongly to HPC/Jet-Hot. I don't want to take the time nor spend the money to get into doing the coating myself, especially since I only have two sets of headers that I might want to do. And the other outfits don't do the inside, so they don't compare with HPC/Jet-Hot and yet their prices of ~$350 - 375 inc shipping are about 80% of HPC's. But, you might say "Wait! You have to go after them." However, Roger said they are less than a mile from the outlet mall in OKC - and Janey loves to go there. Plus, they aren't far from a place that is famous for chicken-fried steaks, and we've been wanting to check them out for some time. So, we have a cunning plan.

That's what I was thinking as well, Angelo. Glad someone else said it first. As for the E4OD's problems, my understanding is that they were resolved, one at a time, and if you have a tranny with the fixes in you'll be good. Or, if you are building one you should add them.

I just ordered the pump/hydroboost hose for the Chevy, and ordered the hydroboost/steering gear hose for a '95 SuperDuty w/a 7.5L. Should be in next Wednesday. Meanwhile I'll get back to the transfer case........