Gary Lewis

Thanks, Jim. It actually turned out better than the BW1356 on Dad's truck. I didn't powder coat that one, just painted it. I do have a skid plate. Big Blue came with a homemade one, but Dad's truck came with a factory one and I'm thinking about using that one on Big Blue. Don't want to hide all the pretty on Dad's truck.

Jonathan - No problem. It was worth a try. I think I'll order the Superduty hose and then figure out what connector is needed for the pump and have it put on. I'd like to get someone that knows fittings to eyeball the one on the pump and say "Oh, that's an XYZ fitting." That way those that come after us will know what to get. Perhaps Alfie knows?

Got my scanning back from the professionals today. (Don't tell Janey that it cost $95. ) And in it was a training book on the TOD & SROD transmissions. Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/TOD & SROD Transmissions. (Man, that needs to be cleaned up!)

Ok, I am "there" on the t-case. Save for torquing the nuts on the yokes and filling it up with fluid, it is done. And, it does shift fairly well. It dawned on me that in the truck you have 2' of lever, so that 2" lever on the side of the t-case isn't going to make it shift very easily. But a large Crescent wrench did the trick. However, today was not all peaches and cream. As explained in the Hydroboost Planning thread, I still have a hose to figure out. I pulled the nice powder coated C-II bracket off and put the Saginaw bracket on, bolted the Sag pump in place, and played with hoses. The Superduty hose from the booster to the steering gear fits, but needs bent a bit for some reason. But I still have to find or make a hose with the right fitting to go from the booster to the pump.

Well, the hoses from Rock Auto came in today. And the high-pressure return line from the hydroboost unit to the sector box looks like it'll work, although it will take some tweaking of the bends to get it where I want it. But the Chevy hose, #366630, doesn't fit. The fitting for the hydroboost end is metric, with a 1.5mm pitch and a .700" OD while the one that came off the hydroboost has an 18 tpi pitch and measure .680" OD. Alfie - Do you have a part number for the fitting you used, the one below? And do you know if it is the correct fitting for the Saginaw pump? Someone that knows ID'd the fitting? Have you fired it up? I ask because I think I'm going to have to have a hose made as well, so if you've solved the problem maybe I can swap the Chevy hose for the Superduty hose and have that end put on.

They ought to scan easily. And there seems to be a market for them.

If you are running the stock ignition then the stock gap is appropriate. And w/o a signature I don't know anything about your truck so can only "assume". By the way, it looks like you are replying via email. That works but brings with it the previous person's post, so it is a bit messy. Your call on that as it is your thread.

Gary, The bearing has no markings on it at all. It is actually kind of rough little thing...it doesn't have the polished surfaces that a regular bearing does. And it is an odd little thing...not going to be easy to find a replacement for unfortunately. The outer race is 1/4" thick, and the inner race is 3/8" thick and has in integral o-ring. Dimensions below for reference. As for the red and black parts...both are required. The black "cup" goes over the outer race of the bearing, and the red plastic piece goes inside the inner race. The only picture I have of all the pieces together is below. These are all of the parts that make up the $148 item being sold on the website linked earlier. Somebody clever (a machinist) could probably make a replacement for this piece that took a more standard off the shelf bearing. It's not all that difficult to remove this stuff for anybody that is in the mood. Doesn't hurt to clean the bearing and re-pack it with good grease. Cory - Great pics! I'm including your pic of the lower bearing housing bits for two reasons. First, I want it bigger, so made it fill the screen. Second, so I can refer to it with these questions: As for machining something, are you thinking to replace the cup and the red piece? I think I'm going to have wait to pursue this much further until I get Big Blue's column apart, but I'm wondering if we couldn't 3D print something?

The going moniker for the 1987+ trucks is Bricknose. I don't know of any list of differences. But we have a thread on Interchange that tries to set out things that are the same. As for the pedal box, they are different between Bulls and Bricks and do not interchange. Parts within them do, but not the box/casting.

Hmmm, what are you trying to say Gary? Plasma cutting not enough? Just another opportunity, Ron. The Cricuts aren't very expensive, so....

That's good to know, Dee.

Gary, That particular bearing is a real weird one. I replaced mine when I rebuilt my column, but I saved my original. At the time JBG was selling replacement bearings, but to be honest they were either very old NOS or simply used bearings that were cleaned up and repacked with grease. The one I received was really in no better condition than the one it replaced. Still...I kept my original, sealed in a baggie in case I ever need one again. It was one of those things that I said I'd try to locate a replacement for someday, but like a lot of other little projects, it's very low priority. By the way, I just checked JBG and can no longer find that bearing. Maybe they are all gone now? The upper bearing (Non-tilt), which was still available from Ford a couple years ago, is part number F23Z-3517-B. I also kept my old one here too as it was in good shape. The oddball lower bearing is part E0TZ-3517-B, at least according to the bag mine was shipped in. The lower plastic housing...the one listed in the above steering column website for $41, was also still available directly from Ford only 2 years ago, and was only $10 Canadian, so probably only $7.50 USD. Just FYI in case anybody is looking. Check with Ford. I believe they were all over Ebay as well. If somebody clever in the parts making business wanted to make a new lower housing that accepted a more standard bearing, they could probably sell a few. The problem is...that plastic housing also serves as a shifter guide on the auto trans columns (and 3 on the tree), so that would have to be taken into account. On a manual trans steering column, it is only a bearing housing, and nothing else. It would probably be easier to modify the pre-existing housings to accept a different bearing. And that's only half the issue...lol. Figuring out how to deal with the ID of the bearing would be the more tricky part. It has a groove on the ID for an O-ring. Anyhow...didn't mean to be so long winded, but I did burn some calories thinking about this back when I rebuilt my steering column...haha. fords4life - I've used Clips & Fasteners several times. They are good. And they have many parts Ford no longer carries. Cory - Good info on the bearings. There's also this thread on FTE which has some info, like this from Bill/Numberdummy, although I stripped out his statements on availability as that was 3 years ago and it is no longer accurate. And, just because something is Obsolete that doesn't mean you can't find it. F23Z-3517-B (replaced C3AZ-3517-A; C7SZ-3517-D; E1FZ-3517-B) .. Upper Steering Column Bearing-Use with fixed steering wheel C7SZ-3517-C .. Upper Steering Column Bearing-Use with tilt steering wheel F23Z-3517-B (replaced C3AZ-3517-A; C7SZ-3517-D; E1FZ-3517-B) .. TOP (above the upper) Steering Column Bearing-Use with tilt steering wheel EOTZ-3517-B .. Lower Steering Column Bearing / Obsolete EOTZ-3D681-A .. Steering Column Lower Bearing Retainer-Black plastic round sleeve type (cup) EOTZ-3D681-B .. Steering Column Lower Bearing Retainer-Red plastic round ring type / Obsolete EOTZ-3D681-D .. Steering Column Lower Bearing Retainer-Use with Manual Steering / Obsolete Note that Bill didn't, nor does the MPC, say which trucks get the red or black lower bearing retainer. But I'm betting you nailed it with the shifter guide bit. Maybe later today I can look at my columns and see if I can tell. But, one question that Brandon/Bruno2 asked in that thread, and which I don't think was answered, is what #'s are on the lower bearing? In other words, might it be a common bearing that Ford was selling? Does your bearing have #'s?

You are a better man than me, I used the cherry picker to get it out of my Durango as I felt it was too heavy to lift by myself. I had help getting it in. Dave ---- I can lift and move a ZF5 from the floor to a skate. From what I've read the NP435 comes in around 125 lbs, but the ZF5 is around 175#.

Exactly.

Yes, that would be ideal.

You guys are doing well. I've been following along, but this is another case where too many cooks spoil the broth. However, I'll jump in on the last question. In this case you could splice the yellow wire back into the black/orange wire where it came from. I don't think the yellow wire is long enough to get to Fuse Link J w/o using the black/orange wire. And the black/orange wire only has a very small amount of resistance in it so having it there won't hurt anything. The cleaner way would be to connect the yellow wire directly to Fuse Link J, which is the wire with the red tab. But, as said, I don't know if there's enough length to do that.

Basically got the t-case done today. Didn't put the rear case half on as I'm still not 100% sure the shift linkage is together correctly. The Ford FSM section says "Check shift fork and planetary gear engagement. Unit should operate freely without any binding." But this t-case wasn't shiftable by hand when I pulled it out, although it shifted fine in the truck. So I'm going to check it out a bit before I seal it up since it'll be far easier to pull it apart now than later. And it is interesting that the Ford FSM section says that 'cause the Borg Warner document doesn't. And there are other fairly significant differences 'tween them. For instance, the Ford section tells to put the clips on the 4wd shift fork spring right after installing the fork. But the BW one doesn't say that there - if anywhere. Similarly the Ford document says to put the shift collar hub in as a logical step in the 4wd shift fork installation, but the BW one doesn't. Presumably it says to install it at another juncture, but ... Anyway, just about "there" on the t-case.

Thought you'd get it. This forum, like most, isn't smart enough to read the camera position info in the metadata w/in the pic. So the best thing to do is to open the pic in a picture editing app and then save it. The app usually, but not always, re-orients the pic when it saves it.

Well, I have already upgraded. And while I have a 30 day trial, I'm hoping to get others to step up to help. As for emailing the source code, there are only two ways I have of getting that: A full backup or right-clicking Google and clicking Inspect. But you could do that latter on any page you'd like and then use that to create another page. If you want to do that then tell me what page you want to work on. I'll create a blank page with a similar name and then set you up as the editor on it. Ok?

Brian - Welcome! Glad you joined. All - Brian's probably the first person to be one the map before I asked. He actually emailed me after joining and asked to be on. As far as where he is, I'll just say he may know Jake and Elwood.

Welcome! Glad you joined. What part of Washington? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to put you on if I had a city/town. And, nice truck. Good price! We are in awe of what is available in the PNW. But, on the windshield make sure they put the right one on. The later windshields fit but the VIN was moved and they obscure the VIN on Bullnose truck. That may not seem like a problem, but it isn't legal and can certainly cause problems when/if you sell. Don't ask. On the manuals, I'd recommend the factory shop manuals. They aren't cheap but are very good. Having said that, a lot of what you need is probably already on this site, and more goes on frequently. For instance: Documentation/Engine/IDI Diesel: The factory shop manual section on that engine. Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmissions/C6: The factory shop manual section on that transmission. Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1986 EVTM: The Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual has all of the wiring diagrams broken up into systems that are much easier to read than the large schematics. And that is really just touching the hem of the garment, as there's lots more Ford documentation buried deeply in the Documentation section.

Even if you get nav with it, like I did on Blue, the nav is poor. The touch screen is awful, and there's no joy stick like most other vehicles. I really dislike it. But I'll take that 5.0 on any day with my 3.5. (Twin turbos more than make up for the lack of displacement, and having ordered it for towing the 3.55's make it launch much better than the 3.23's most trucks get.)

Yes, too many cooks in the kitchen.... I'm headed out to church and won't be able to work this until afternoon. But we can get you through it.

Yes, it might be good to add it to that page. And I'm happy to do the computer stuff.

The yellow wire was protected by Fuse Link J in my diagram above. And just taking it to the Megafuse won't really offer the correct protection. Fuse Link J is probably a 14 gauge wire and may be able to pass 70 amps w/o melting. The Megafuse is probably a 150 amp, right? You can connect the yellow wire to the Megafuse, but if you get a short in the yellow wire it'll melt it quickly w/o blowing the fuse. I wouldn't. I'd connect it back to Fuse Link J. The red/orange and yellow/green are for the ammeter. Are you going to use it or replace it with a voltmeter? There were lots of good things about RJM, but that diagram is not one of them.