Gary Lewis

Interesting, Jim. Is the 80 mil duct liner something like this from Frost King? The mass damping vinyl attached to 12mm foam rubber uncoupler on the firewall, transmission tunnel, and passenger's floor is getting pretty scientific. That's a good approach. I don't plan to pull the factory stuff off the firewall. And while I know the benefits of an uncoupler and mass damping, I doubt I'll go that far. How big of a difference did you notice when you installed all that? And can you tell a difference from the driver's side to the passenger's side?

Well, I've read enough to be gobsmacked. There are way too many offerings these days. So I need to ask specific questions of each of you: Shaun: Did you go with the 50 or 80 mil FatMat? Everywhere? And why did you choose that? Scatch: Which Killmat did you use? 50 mil or 80 mil? Why? Scott: The Eastwood offerings are so extensive I have no idea which ones you used. And why did you pick those? Please enlighten me.

Yes, 38 years is a long time, especially on starter or battery cables. Glad you are getting this sorted. It is always a pain to chase the weird problems bad cables can create.

From what I can see in your photos Gary, I think those braces were added after the fact. The weld on them isn't consistent with the other welds and it has more rust on it. I think it was done by a previous owner. Just a guess though. Maybe so, Alfie. But they offer some support so I'll keep them. And chrome will look good. Takes a lot of work to make it smooth enough though.

Somehow the bucket with the headrest doesn't look "right". (And I doubt my captain's chairs look "right" either.) The bucket by itself looks better. But, the SuperDuty rear seat is very interesting. Are they the same width? Is there a way to adapt them to fit the mid 90's pan?

Old home week for you. First the jar, then the interior. Good to know the "organ donor" box was ticked on that SuperDuty.

Yep. 'Tis true.

Over use, too much running. Top of tibia/knee is not happy. I can't walk right now much if at all. That must be why I don't run!

You are now on the map. As for Billings, I assume you've flown out of there? Quite a rush when you run out of runway. I worked for Conoco for 22 years. Been to the refinery a few times.

Ok guys, thanks. I'll do some reading up on the stuff. As for the tranny cover, it is hiding with the lower steering column. I have one that's AWOL, and they have to be together.

You guys knew, but I sure didn't. Do now. Anyway, I got what I intended to do done, and then some. The plan was to get the switches hooked up, inc the clutch and brake switches, and then the wiring tucked up and tied. I got that done, but as I was doing it I realized that the speed control wiring was right there, and I knew it had been hacked. Then I realized that there was no vacuum dump hose for the speed control. So it was time to pull out the speed control wiring and install some that I had in the attic. Got the old out, and there wasn't much of it, and then the new in and fed through the firewall. In fact, I not only got the amplifier put back where it belongs but I installed the servo under the hood and connected it up. Then I thought I'd put the instrument cluster back in, but as I was doing that I remembered that I don't like the blue LED's. So it was time to install the White ones I got from HiPo Parts. That done I tested and all of them worked, which was strange 'cause probability says that half should be in backwards. On a whim I reversed the leads and sure enough, all of them worked that way as well. WOW! I think I can safely recommend these LED's, but I'll have to wait until dark some day to get a good pic of what the gauges look like. But before I install the cluster I need to remember to install the voltmeter that Rocketman converted. So it is not quite ready to go back in, but soon. Also, in the pic you can see a bit of the tranny cover. I was SURE I had the cover that I had in Dad's truck, which is the tall one I got from Shaun years ago, and it is cut for the ZF as well as a t-case shifter. But so far the only tall one I've found is for a 2WD auto - no holes. May have to go looking for another tall cover. And, it is about time to order the sound deadening material 'cause I think the next steps will be to kill the rust on the floor and then add the sound deadening. Then I can add the carpet and seat and it'll start looking like a truck. So, what sound deadening material do you'se guys recommend?

Yep:

We have this page at Documentation/Fasteners & Illustrations/Fenders & Aprons. Doubt that is everything you need, but does it help? And, I can take pics of Big Blue's aprons if that would help.

Totally standalone. No connection to the A/C system. Just another source of fresh air - in addition to the HVAC system. Still haven't heard from the guy, but I have the green light to order when I do.

Nabble doesn't seem to be that way. Instead of the picture actually being hosted elsewhere and just loaded from there when you load a Nabble page, the pictures are actually stored on Nabble.

Christian - You don't have a signature so I don't know the specifics about your truck. But go here and this should let you decide: Documentation/Driveline/Brakes and then go to the Rear Brakes tab and then the Brake Drum Numbers tab. And if you need to know the rear axle capacity you should be able to get that from the certification label on the door frame. Go to Specifications/Axle Ratios and then decode the info from the certification label. Hope that helps, but if not ask more questions.

sorry for the slow replies.. finals week and I also ended up with a couple minor tibial fractures. Ouch! Did you jump out of a perfectly good airplane to test a parachute?

Well, let's see if this helps understand the brake switch:

Glad you joined! Welcome! Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I just had a town/city. (No real addresses.) Hope you'll start a thread in the main section to show us all about your Bronco and track the progress.

I get 13 1/2" from where I THINK the front of the radiator support should be. (Mine's out, but I think I can tell.)

Have you seen this? https://www.facebook.com/groups/443736922474997/?fref=nf

I'll check in a bit. Still drinking coffee and checking up on things........

Grounding is an oft-overlooked problem. Many people don't realize that if current comes in it has to go out. (You sure wouldn't want it pooled around your feet. ) But there are grounds and then there are GROUNDS. In later years Ford got serious about grounds and ran several to the cab, fenders, etc. But not so on our trucks.

I don't know. I didn't keep that fender from Huck, the '90 F250, so can't check. But can you measure where the holes were? Maybe I can figure it out on BB.

Yes, I think that 250ma rating is correct. So your switch should be perfect.