Gary Lewis

On the other hand, if a Brick-to-Bull swap is that easy, then maybe go with Bullnose fenders, grille, and headlights but keep the Brick wiring and dash. Does that require a different radiator support? If so, forget it. But most people wouldn't notice that different dash since externally it looks like a Bull save for the wheel well openings.

So going Bricknose just requires two fenders, and you have everything else? That doesn't sound too bad. But going Bullnose? The whole front clip and wiring harness plus dash and gauges? Even if you have some of the stuff for the Bullnose swap it sure sounds easier to do the Bricknose swap. Kind of like your buy of the other truck was meant to be.

It is a really striking truck, and would easily be worth that in my book.

Not bad for the price. But it seems strange to have a 302 w/an AOD in an F250. Has the extremely rare to find side trim. And the A/C compressor is AWOL. Plus the right door panel appears to have been painted and is wearing off. But overall, it is in good shape.

Yes, glad you found that. As for the tach, sometimes they aren't smooth. I've had them do crazy things when they were cold.

Not sure I see where they are completely blocked in the old pic, but maybe I'm missing something? I think they are blind holes.

As I think about it, I'll have to get SEM paint anyway since I'm going to put the cover on the dash that Vernon supplied. And the back corner trim needs painted, so that's that. As for an update, L&L called yesterday and were shipping the headers to Jet-Hot. And Brandon/Bruno2 was up here today and brought the 750 CFM Eddy that had been on Big Blue, so I need to get the carb adapter on order. And, I need to send the old dizzy in to have Scotty go through it.

Randy - You are getting there. But it sounds like the squirter nozzles for the accelerator pump are clogged. IIRC, on a 2150 you can pull the squirter w/o taking the rest of the carb apart. I'd use soft copper wire from a stranded piece to clean it. And don't hit the accelerator with it off as there's a check valve and weight that would fly out - and probably be lost.

1981/86 F-U100/350 - - w/dual battery—L.H.—gas-

80/84 EOTZ 8125-D L.H. Lower

Another cardboard one. For that price I'd look for the "after 2/85" plastic ones.

That looks to be a cardboard one, although I can't tell that for sure. However, it uses staples the way the cardboard ones from Ford did. Personally I'd find a plastic one like those used from 2/85 as they hold up better: E0TZ 1006010-A 80/85 "Before 2/85" F100/350.U150 - - w/integral A/C E5TZ 1506010-B 85/86 "From 2/85" F150/350.U150 — w/integral A/C

Good find! That is sought after. 7517 SOCKET (CLUTCH SHAFT BALL HALF) 80/on F100/350 U150 All transmissions E0TZ 7517-B

80/85 F100/350 (Regular Cab) E0TZ 16A454-A Use to repair dealer installed running board kit - not replaced

I'm not sure what that is. The generic part number "17743" doesn't occur in the MPC, much less E0TZ-17743-A. A mirror should be "17682". Buy at your own risk, but if the pic matches what you need.....

Well, machining the relief so that it fits into the steel column is the easy part...you would just machine that portion smaller so that it slid inside and came up against a shoulder. Machined like that, the piece would work fine for trucks with a manual transmission. The problem as I see it, is machining the backside of that part so that it could be used with automatic trans trucks. I think that part would be more difficult. As for the square shaft in the round hole...you really just need a way to make sure the shaft is snug in the hole and actually turns the bearing (instead of the shaft turning inside the inner race). However...I'm not sure how you would make sure it fit snugly, but at the same time wasn't too difficult to get on over the shaft. Not sure yet how you would do that... Depends on your machines. I have a manual mill and a manual lathe. So I could turn the outside of the bearing carrier to fit into the tube, but have no easy way to cut the shoulder to fit the steps. But that could be done with a CNC mill. As for the shaft fitting in the bearing, the shaft is sheet metal that's been rolled and/or stamped. From what little I know of that process, the tolerances aren't all that good. So the size of the shaft is going to vary, and getting it to fit properly in the bearing is probably going to be a problem. That may be why Ford went with a plastic stuffer - it takes up the slack between the shaft and bearing.

Yipes! Don't be holding your coffee when you look! $575!?!?!?!?!? By the way, I've seen rebuilt Bullnose columns listed for some pretty crazy prices, but I have to admit they were looking like new. If you ever run across a manual trans tilt column, I guess these ones are somewhat rare? I've seen them on Ebay for $750. I'd thought, briefly, of trying to make on of those. But then I realized there were two problems: 1: How to machine the reliefs into the outside so it would sit down in the column correctly 2: What to do about the square shaft in the round hole. At that point I decided the old bearing I had could be cleaned and re-used. But, I do have a manual tilt column. The one I took out of Big Blue is that, but I put a non-tilt back.

Max - You are now on the map. And your idea of a new thread in Projects is perfect. That way you can preserve your pics of all the work you've done as well as share it with us.

Gary, The screws in question are the forward two valve cover bolts on the 302. They are 1/4" hex head bolts, but the heads have a little post sticking out of them that the wire retainers fit on to. See mine below. They are like the wire "combs", but they have a hinged part that snaps in place. My original retainers were all broken and falling apart, but I installed Dorman 40286 retainers and they are very similar (and fit the factory valve cover screw posts). Cory - That helped. They are: 387883-S2 r/b 387883-S8M-stud & washer (cover to cvl. head)-1/4"-20 x 1/4"-20 x 1.82

Dunno. That's the only illustration in the MPC that addresses the engines used in the F-series trucks. So I'm at a loss.

That's about half what it should be. A new regulator is a good idea.

Welcome! Glad you joined. We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to put you on it if I had a city in SW Montana. Tell us about your trucks. Mine are just one year older than yours - '81 and '85.

The plastic "combs" are shown here: Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and on the Ignition Wiring tab: But, I don't know what the part numbers are for the screws that hold them, and I can't find them shown in the MPC. Here's the illustration that shows the 12297's, but I can't see the screws. Can anyone?

There are at least two things working at the same time - cost and experience. And it looks to me like the earlier wiring & dash wins on both of those. Looking at it another way, I think you have three scenarios: 1: Forget replacing the wiring and go with the earlier dash and wiring, which you have. The cost will be next to nothing, but how much time will it take? 2: Decide to keep with the later dash and wiring and hope a salvage has the parts you need. You know that'll take a day to find out if they do and some amount of fuel. Then there's the cost to get it from the salvage. Did that spreadsheet you sent me some time ago have prices on harnii and gauges? Can you come up with a cost? Can you call the salvages? 3: Go with the ebay stuff, which you said will cost ~$900. Is that all? Does that give you everything? Not sure that helps, but I'm just trying to get my head around things.

That's cheap coming from down under!