ckuske

We shall see! Kind of a shot in the dark but it was only eight bucks. Thanks for the measurements - I gotta add calipers to my tool wish list. On Tue, Sep 8, 2020 at 4:49 PM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

McMaster Carr is where I purchased it from. Black hard plastic tubing, 2.7mm ID, 4mm OD On Tue, Sep 8, 2020 at 4:18 PM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

Thanks guys, we shall see! I found some tubing from a scientific site of all places - it's hard to find plastic tubing that small of a diameter. It's a pretty close match, I'll let you know if it works out. Should be here tomorrow....

What size inner diameter line do you suppose that is?

Thanks Jim, I appreciate it. I figured, but I didn't know if there was some tribal knowledge I was missing. I have the whole interior torn apart - no dash, glove box, anything. I'll play around with it and tug a bit, I'd rather replace the line. The PO did the splice (but it was disconnected when I got the truck). I reconnected it and all the sudden the blend door worked a lot better, so I'd like to keep it working.

Thanks Jim. Just to be clear, I meant electrically (open circuit or something). I also discovered an old problem, a broken vacuum hose (pic below, you can see the broken portion as well). I know the line is hooked up to the HVAC controls, but it seems like a bear to feed a new line from the cab to where those two lines come into the engine compartment. The line is a little brittle so I'd like to replace it, but do you or anyone else have tips on how to feed a new line through? It comes up from the cab way in the corner behind where the heater core is when installed.

I've purchased a new fan clutch (Four Seasons, as recommended) and also purchased a new heater core since the interior is dismantled. While we are on the subject of the interior - I read before taking it apart that you should have the battery disconnected. This makes sense if there were loose wires, etc. But if my wiring is in order, can I start my truck up if I need to move it, start the motor after replacing the fan clutch, etc? Are there any connectors that MUST be connected to their usual components or I'll damage something? Weird question I know, but I don't want to find out the hard way.

Thanks Dave and Jim, both good suggestions! I'll give these both a shot. The fan clutch is something that looks doable for me, the part isn't too much. As I sift through things, my approach is to replace things with good quality parts (NOS where possible) if I'm not aware of them being replaced. As for the hesitation issue, I just uploaded a video I took awhile back while the interior was still put together. . Maybe you guys can glean something from it? I also replaced the EGR valve when I pulled some codes... both KOER and KOEO comes out clean, and this video was taken after that fix.

I added a few more that slipped my mind, but now I've thrown your answers off.. sorry! I'll climb underneath and wipe down the leaky areas so I can try to pinpoint the leaks better. The fan is freewheeling, definitely not locked up. When I got the truck smogged last year (yeah, I live in California...), the tech suggested the fan clutch as the overheating issue but I haven't looked further. I think I'm on a 5 year plan with my truck I'll probably postpone the cruise issue until I get it rolling again. Give the work I'm going to do on it this year, I just re-registered it as PNO

Thanks for the feedback so far guys, keep it comin'! Jim, I hadn't considered painting the jambs etc... good idea! My only worry though is if when I get the rest of the truck painted, what if it doesn't match? I guess I'm only out the cost of the paint I used to spray the inside, so that's a pretty good gamble. Overall, the truck is in pretty good shape for all it's miles. These are my biggie items (so far discovered, or desired) 1. Diff leak 2. Transmission fluid leak 3. Overheating when idling (not sure if fan clutch, or radiator/water pump) 4. Small oil leak (this isn't out of the ordinary though, so maybe this is a pass for now?) 5. Cruise control inop 6. AC not working (either compressor clutch, or low refrigerant pressure) 7. Replace bed wood (including bed blocks/pads) 8. Troubleshoot stumble on acceleration (carb rebuilt professionally, helped a little but not entirely) 9. Body work (remove rivets for tonneau cover, passenger side fender where meets door not flush, hood dents) 10. Paint 11. Re-install factory radio, with Bluetooth amp 12. Oh, while I have the dash torn off, I'm replacing the heater core as well. Maybe this'll help guide what to do first. To be honest, most of the mechanical (items 1-4) will probably be done by pros. I have a two car garage and I just don't have all the gear (yet)

Hi All, So I have a bit of a generic question, because I'm torn. I've recently stripped out the cab. All plastic trim, dash, carpet, the works. Just wires and the seatbelts is all that is left. The intention is to get all the trim repainted in the original Dark Blue with SEM paint. As a test run, I decided to repaint my radio bezel with SEM Trim Black paint (rattle can) - the paint looks nice but as it turns out, my garage is just too dusty - I get crud in the paint. It makes me worry about repainting all the trim - as far as car interiors go, there only shops seem to do upholstery. If I chose to have a pro with the right tools/environment, who do you think I could contact? Is maybe a auto paint shop the right place? On a higher level though, I've been doing the interior because it's something manageable for me. I don't have a full complement of tools or space to do some of the larger tasks right now (front end work, repainting the entire truck). But now that I have the interior stripped, I have started contemplating replacing all the rubber (especially the vent window rubber). But it seems to me it is kind of backwards to do this before paint. Pic is a bit old (carpet still in, detritus on the floof), but this is the current state I've done some casual looking, but is there an established order of operations regarding the order in which things should be tackled? Any and all mechanical? Then paint? Then interior/rubber? I understand this is a rookie question, but hey, I'm as self-aware man haha. Maybe I just get the trim painted now, and put it all away safely and bolt the seat back in and just start working on other areas. Thoughts? Thanks for all your help.

This is great, thanks Gary! Now I can be confident in the tape colors used on my truck originally among many other things.

If you have carpet now, can you please let us know what ACC sample matches up the best? My truck is an '84 with the Dark Harbor Blue interior, but NO carpet, so I'd also love to know what color to order. PS: How did you like using the Preval kit? I honestly hadn't heard of this until a couple weeks ago when I was talking to the SEM paint guy up here. Your pictures make it obvious for me that I really need to order the Harbor Blue paint. Nothing else matches it. Thanks for sharing. I'm going to start this work soon (this past week has been a bathroom remodel instead.. sigh), so thanks to all of you for sharing this info! I'll be using the Dark Harbor Blue SEM as well, it looks great. I'll be following this thread for updates on the carpet, that comes next! -Chris

What do you think the chances are that the convex mirror comes off leaving the mirror underneath unmolested?

I ran into the same thing, I found a clear coat that I have yet to apply from the same company that makes the silver. Since I just noticed this recently, I can't say whether it helps a lot or a little, but it should be better than nothing. It's specifically for the chrome paint they sell: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q6VWL0

Gary, I had completely forgotten I read that page. I bought those exact nail tees and the same paint. So, thanks Jonathan!

It's not you, it's Nabble. All you have to do to fix it is open the photo on your desktop in Paint or something similar, and resave it. No changes, no mods, just save the photo back to disk right on top of itself. Doing so does something to the metadata and Nabble can then read it correctly. Good to know, thanks Dorsai! Nabble must not like the EXIF data (which includes orientation) that comes from the pictures taken on my iPhone perhaps?

Yeah, I'm planning on putting an XL emblem back on it (there is one on Dennis Carpenter that looks good) so it's important that I fill in the holes where the Ranger emblem went. I think my only choice (that I can stand with my OCD tendencies haha) is to repaint all the black areas. Good point about the masking! The secondary reason I bought this replacement bezel is a small area of the woodgrain flecked off my original bezel and I knew I wasn't going to be happy with that moving forward. A gentle touch will be required, for sure. While we are on the subject of paints, what have you guys used to repaint the silver trim? I used this stuff on my instrument bezel and it looks good but I'd be curious to see what you guys have used. I used a pointed Q-Tip to apply.

I don't know why, but even when the photos are correct in Windows Explorer, the pictures are rotated when I upload. I try to rotate them and re-upload, but it seems the server is hanging onto the first copy. Argh. Anyway, here are the pics. I agree with you guys, painting all the black areas is best to make it look consistent. My OE bezel is missing the area where the radio knobs go, so I bought this Ranger bezel to replace it. It's in pretty good shape overall, but I need to scrape off the foam/glue where the emblem went, and paint it. I also have to fill in the holes where the emblem inserted into the bezel. Would epoxy be good for this, or something else?

Hello All, I'm looking for a black touch-up paint that can get rid of some scuffs in my radio bezel. A matte type paint seems like it'd be best, but does anyone have recommendations? The scuff is on the emblem area, so it'd be pretty visible if it didn't match well. Thanks! -Chris

Almost got excited when I saw this - I'm trying to find the plastic ones that seem to break on everyone. I know there aftermarket ones, but I want the real deal.

Hi Rob, Let me see what I can figure out. I already removed them and put those guys in the generic "dash frame support" baggie without noting where they were intended to go. Sorry

I have a whole baggie full of bolts and screws now. Hopefully there are none left when I put it all together haha!

I didn't realize it, but the E-Brake bolt needed to be removed, thanks for the help. That made a big difference. The funny thing is that in the corners, the dash moved more freely with that bolt in than by the steering column. Oh well. I have to just disconnect a little more wiring and then it's free! Thanks all!

I started with thinking I could just remove the dash off the frame. I then decided that it'd probably be easier to take the dash off with it mounted to the frame still, so I've unbolted everything including (I think, but clearly I'm missing one) the bolts you mentioned. The right hand side of the dash is free and clear. The left hand side is free. The only point of resistance is *right* above the steering column. There is a little give there, but not much. I could try to pull harder but I am nervous about damaging things so I'd rather take my time and do it right. I can certainly try to drop the steering column per Shaun's suggestion, but I already removed one in that neighborhood.