ckuske

Looks great! I skimmed a little bit back and didn't see an answer, so is this a stock color? Paint Code 3L ?

Thanks all for the kind words! To be fair, I have pictures of them cleaned but not painted but I couldn't find them today, I'll update the post when I find them. EDIT: My original post above has been updated to show "clean but not painted" pictures. I'd say I probably put about eight hours into it total. I was really impressed by the SEM Trim Black. It covered really really well. With the plastic being as hard and glossy as it was, I was worried about the finish ending up streaky or spotty, but that ended up not being the case. I've used Trim Black to freshen up the radio bezel, and that ended up looking really nice as well. And, this is coming from someone whose track record with spray painting has been spotty (no pun intended, mostly... ) up until now.

All done with the painting of the fender liners, here are some pics. I washed them off with Dawn soap and a scour pad, then SEM soap, then used SEM Plastic Adhesion Promoter (Sand Free didn't take on this plastic). Finally, three coats of SEM Trim Black (39143). It coated and adhered really well, but I didn't try to beat it up to check on scratch resistance. The only gripe is the area where the battery sits - but the plastic is scored, so not much to do about that... it'll be covered normally so not a big deal. Before: Cleaned, but not painted: After:

Phew, one less thing. The weekend is shaping up to be looking pretty good! Thanks for the quick replies

Scott, I'm admittedly no expert on this, but I took a five minute break from my day job and went to the garage to look at how the fenders are attached. When *I* look at it, it seems the hood springs are attached to the fender. Removing the hood spring bolts on each side looks easy, but if I disconnect the hood support(s) from the fender, I have the core support off in the front. My concern is there is nothing for the hood to lie on with the springs disconnected from the fender. I'd really like to not try and remove the hood. Thoughts? I have a feeling I'm missing something so I look forward to more details. Thanks, Chris

My goal is to paint all the frame rails, the front and rear as much as makes sense. The top of the rails the cab sits on won't get any paint, but that's OK. I'm in SoCal, so no rust/salt issues here. Just trying to future proof the frame, and have it look nice while I'm at it. It'll probably be illegal to drive it in California sooner than the frame rusts I'll take a look at removing the fenders - I hear what you're saying on the speed nuts. Had a clip snap and spin on the core support and that was no fun trying to remove!

Got the IWISS crimpers, terminals, and heat shrink. The crimpers look great, thanks for the tip! Probably a job for tomorrow. Regarding painting the frame (the original goal). I have the fender aprons out, and things are pretty easy to get to now. I am toying with the idea of taking the fenders off - how much more involved would that be? Also, I am trying to decide what to paint exactly... just the frame rails, or what have you guys done? Did you paint the coils etc also? And for the rear, what's the opinion on painting the diff? I'm kinda on the fence about it - I don't want everything to be black necessarily, but I'm worried about it looking weird to be 50/50 etc.

Darn, that was a good find! I've been trying to decide whether to go with this mat as my truck had it originally, or put in carpet again. Now I'll be hunting for this.

Thanks much, Scott! I should get a wire gauge too, so I don't have to have other people do the work for me. Really appreciate it. Crimpers, terminals, and now wire gauge to be delivered tomorrow hopefully...

Thanks all. I’ll probably start with the crimp, and get the solder gun next week and maybe get some practice in on that. I should have a soldering tool around, I work with electronics a lot at home now (but I’m just a lowly software guy) but it’d be nice to repair simple things or replace a resistor etc on my own....

Alternator is a 40 amp

Do we think the crimper Scott sent (thanks Scott!) will suffice for the gauge wire I need to crimp? Will probably buy the soldering stuff too for other stuff bound to come up.

Thanks Gary, much appreciated. A self-imposed layer of the onion this time.

Soldering seems better. But OK, considering I haven’t soldered since I was 12 or so and I don’t have any of the tools anymore: Soldering iron, or gun? Regular solder with flux in it would be ok? On Fri, Mar 12, 2021 at 4:45 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] wrote: > Bummer! > > The wire was stripped back far enough for the copper strands to go into > the barrel of the connector, which was then crimped with enough force to > turn the connector and wire strands into one piece of copper. And the rest > of the connector was crimped over the insulation to give strain relief. > > As for how to re-attach it, if you have a high-quality crimper meant for > that size of terminal, then use that. But it takes a serious crimper, not > your cheap parts store variety. A lot of leverage or mechanical advantage > is needed to crimp that size of wire, and most good crimpers will have die > made for that size and have a ratcheting action. > > But you asked how I would do it, and realizing that all of the current > from the alternator goes through that I'd solder it and cover it with > heat-shrink lined with adhesive. Part of that is because I don't have the > right crimpers, and part is because that's the way I like to do it. > Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile > > > *Dad's* : > '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" > w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches > *Blue:* 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a > 3.5L EB & Max Tow > *Big Blue:* 1985 > F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac > in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI > > > ------------------------------ > If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion > below: > > http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Old-Blue-1984-XL-Flareside-tp17808p91018.html > To unsubscribe from Old Blue - 1984 XL Flareside, click here > > . > NAML > >

Thanks Gary, I brought the shroud to the ceramic coating shop, two weeks lead time. Should turn out nice. the owner gave me a tour of the shop, and gave me lots of other ideas on how to spend $$$ there (powder coat wheels, polish windshield trim, etc) In the meantime... well, let's say mistakes were made. To test fit the new shroud to verify it fit, I have to remove the alternator off its bracket to slide the new shroud in. I had it resting on the frame, and today I bumped it and it fell on the floor. I immediately said a few choice words for my bad decision... The alternator itself seems OK (I hope!) but of the wires (O/LB to the battery I think, see pics of the alternator lug below) had it's connector flex and break off the alternator lug. The wires and harness appear ok, I was looking at connectors and it seems an open barrel connector is the way to go, but if you look at the pictures of the wire, the crimp has insulation underneath it. What connector would you recommend? I'd like to avoid soldering if possible, but maybe this is how it was done originally. Wire gauge seems to be 14 or 16, I can't find details in the documentation. Bottom line, how would you guys reattach this? The wires are gunked up in the pics, they're not all black anymore haha.

Here's the one I had been watching for $350 for months and months: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-1981-1982-83-Ford-Exhaust-Manifold-Heat-Stove-Shroud-Assembly-EOSZ-9A603-A/173803729128

Agreed, Jim. I'd rather keep the exact finish, but in another 30+ years I don't want to have to (or my kids have to!) try and find this part again when it rusts out again. There won't be any NOS by that time! It's close enough that the difference in finish won't bug me unless I'm underneath the truck staring at it , and it adds significant corrosion protection.

First of all everyone, thanks for all your feedback on plating the exhaust shroud! I did some local calling around, and the results weren't great. Everyone wanted a minimum of $150+ for nickel or zinc plating. Probably local/state costs around hazardous materials etc... One place I did call offered a ceramic coating option, for $80! The owner said it was rated to 1500 degrees Fahrenheit, and he could match the original appearance pretty well. Here's a picture of an example of the finish. Seems like a no brainer? Website is http://www.xtremeperformanceheatcoatings.com/

Here are some before pics:

Oh, I also got the other fender liner out. Hosed both of them down, scrubbed them with Dawn dish soap then rinsed, let them dry. Next is to use SEM soap on them, but need to get a scuff pad tomorrow. Then, use Sand Free adhesion promoter and spray with the SEM Trim Black! Then, I'll move on to the frame.

I had good luck on eBay (thank goodness for their saved search function!) I found the exhaust shroud, and managed to get the seller down to $125. Not too bad I think, I've seen them for $300 and even $400. A couple things - is there anything I can put on this so it doesn't rust this time around? Now granted the old one lasted 30+ years, but I'm wondering about some sort of sealant etc. I don't know with the heat involved if anything will stick around that all that long, but I thought I'd ask. Or just paint it with high-temp paint? I'd like to keep the steel look around, and not have to paint it... I looked on the bottom of the old one (it slid right out, that was nice)... it appears there are two bolts to hold it to the exhaust manifold. What can/should I put on the screws to ensure some day I can remove them if needed? What high-temp anti-seize? In my research it seems they are 5/16" x 3/4" -18... can anyone confirm? Thanks! If I see another one on eBay, I'll be sure to post it on the Marketplace ASAP.

I've looked at these Jeep ones before and they look very similar, but was nervous about buying one and having it not fit. When looking at it, I figured they would fit the plastic intake that mounts to the radiator support. Looks like it fits on the air cleaner side as well! My ducting is ripped in several places and it doesn't attach to the air cleaner very nicely. Thanks for posting this Cory, this looks like a good replacement.

Hi Jim, I've only used it a couple times since I've been busy ripping everything apart lately, so I can't say much about it yet. But the few times I did use it, it was nice and sturdy. I'm 5'10", so having those extra few inches really helps reach back by the carb/EGR, etc... This is the one my wife got my for Christmas (gosh, she's a keeper... she came up with it on her own) https://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-647596-Truck-Service-13-Inch/dp/B0002Q8TWI

Thanks Gary, I'm glad I took a second look at your suggestion. I started with just wanting to swap out my radiator. Now I have the whole front of the truck apart (but having fun!)

Got it out, it was Bondo. Dug around the screw and was able to get the apron out. Tomorrow, the next one...