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Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

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ArdWrknTrk

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Administrator

Ahh, I didn't realize you had the magic-air

Back to the catalogue.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Administrator

This post was updated on .

In reply to this post by Rembrant

Ok Cory, now that I'm looking for the '52 Magic-Air heater I've found your posts at FTE along with a few by firstrider/Denny from Port St.Lucie FL and Julie's Cool F1/Dan.
Denny seems to sell the 12V motor as a $72 'upgrade to his refurbished Magic-Air units.

I also see this thread on The H.A.M.B. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1952-f1-magic-air-heater-blower-motor.768462/
boutlaw said he had to reverse the studs on the motor but otherwise it fit as original.
GR-055 crosses to a lot of numbers including Thomas Bus 26034369, D001-582A, BSM 202520, and it shows on 5-6 different school bus parts sites....

http://www.discountfleetsupply.com/school-buses.html
https://www.partdeal.com/kysor-double-speed-blower-motor-12v-ccw-10-amps-max-1099032.html
https://donbrownbusparts.com/products/blower-motor-1099032-202520
https://www.traction.com/en/p/blower-motor-bgs1099032
etc, etc....

Also check the cross reference numbers on those pages.

So let's see if these dimensions match up with yours.
3"D, 2 9/16" motor length, 1/4" 'D' shaft, 1 3/16" long, CCW rotation from the shaft end.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Rembrant

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Denny seems to sell the 12V motor as a $72 'upgrade to his refurbished Magic-Air units.

Thanks Jim! I actually emailed that guy in Florida, but I must have missed that he sold a 12v motor upgrade. Interesting. I guess my issue is...that $72 motor, by the time I pay for shipping, and foreign exchange, and tax, it would cost me about $200, no joke. This is why the $25 12v-6v converter seems like a better idea to me. If I can find a 12v motor that fits, and maybe get it from RockAuto or Amazon for $40-$50 I could live with that, but otherwise I'll get the voltage adapter/reducer and run the 6v motor. In reality, it really won't be run very often...

Thanks buddy, I really appreciate your input on this. I'll pull the existing motor and measure it up and report back.

1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Administrator

Cory, I see his photo from that thread here:

Which seems to be..... 💡

$29.98 on Zoro:. (AKA Grainger) https://www.zoro.com/dcm-heater-motor-2-speed-cw-ext-ground-d-001c-483-3/i/G8736476/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping%20feed&utm_content=free%20google%20shopping%20clicks&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtbqdBhDvARIsAGYnXBMoPqDp9A3I8kMbIApTW2BtTWrmA0W1TXS1OVDJu8Y0uhtt2Rext8caAkajEALw_wcB

Or $37.52 on Don Brown Bus Sales:. https://donbrownbusparts.com/products/d-001-483-3-single-1-4-shaft-heater-motor

But I'm not sure if this is for the '50-'51, or the '52-'53....

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Administrator

I look at Don Brown Bus Sales and they have a Ford p/n C4VZ-18527-A

They also show it as crossing to Four Seasons/Trumark 35576, which is made in Canada and available on Amazon.
(Showing $37.39 U.S. in my app)
https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-Trumark-35576-without/dp/B000CNHAK8?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

$34.79 on RockAuto. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/four+seasons,35576,blower+motor,6916

I don't know how much any of this helps, but should be a match for the one Denny posted in his thread.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Rembrant

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Jim,

Thanks for all the Columbo work!

That one from Don Brown's looks like it will fit.

I pulled mine out, but didn't remove the fan. Can't tell the exact length as half of the motor sits inside a recess in the fan, but as best as I can tell it is 2.75" long, 3.00" OD, with a 1/4" D shaft, and 2.32" stud spacing. I haven't confirmed rotation yet. It spins nice and smooth, and it was working fine so I assume the motor is still in good working order for as much as it will get used.

I'm not decided on what to do yet, but I'll check on the shipping of that one from Don Brown's and go from there.

Thanks again.

Rembrant

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

What rotation would this be?

The housing shape design tell me it's CW, but the angle of the blades tells me CCW. What would you guys say?

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Administrator

This post was updated on .

It does appear CCW. This is in line with that thread on the H.A.M.B. that calls out the GR-055.

If you look here: http://www.discountfleetsupply.com/school-buses.html

GR-055 is CCW and GR-037 is the same unit but CW rotation.

http://www.discountfleetsupply.com/grkgr-055.html
http://www.discountfleetsupply.com/grkgr-037.html

Here are the pages from apartswarehouse that was suggested as a source in that 10 year old thread. (the link there is now 404)
Note that B Outlaw says he needed to reverse the studs on his GR-055.

https://www.apartswarehouse.com/Product/Show/1649/single-shaft-blower-motor-14-shaft-ccw
https://www.apartswarehouse.com/Product/Show/1458/single-shaft-blower-motor-14-shaft-cw-2-speed-3-wire

They offer a clockwise motor with reversed studs, but I don't really see that as an issue as long as you do one at a time .
https://www.apartswarehouse.com/Product/Show/471/single-shaft-blower-motor-14-shaft-cw-rev-studs

Edit: Denny's photo above shows D-001-483-3 R/S which is a clockwise rotation motor.

Did you ever hear back from him???

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Rembrant

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Did you ever hear back from him???

Ya, he replied in my FTE thread and said that with my picture above, looking from that view the rotation is CW.

What end view to the manufacturer's reference when stating CW or CCW?

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Administrator

Always the shaft end.
So not GR-055 regardless what the H.A.M.B. thread says.

GR -037 or the D-001-483-3R/S that Denny offers and already has reversed studs.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Rembrant

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

In reply to this post by Rembrant

New fan shroud and Spal low profile fan arrived yesterday finally. I had been waiting to order this for weeks...or months.

Anyway, it fits! I don't think a regular fan would have fit, but the low profile version does the trick just fine! With the engine offset almost 2" to the right, the fan and the water pump pulley don't really occupy the same space anyway, but still, I didn't want them to be too close either. PS: Ignore that grungy old alternator...it's only on there temporarily.

Gary Lewis

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Administrator

Looks great, Cory! (Save for the alternator.)

So, what is the plan for the alternator?

Also, my brother has a '54 Skyliner w/a 302. He doesn't have A/C but wants to add it. However, it doesn't look like there's enough room to get an electric fan between the water pump and the radiator. Is your 2" offset normal?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

Rembrant

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Gary Lewis wrote

Looks great, Cory! (Save for the alternator.)

So, what is the plan for the alternator?

Also, my brother has a '54 Skyliner w/a 302. He doesn't have A/C but wants to add it. However, it doesn't look like there's enough room to get an electric fan between the water pump and the radiator. Is your 2" offset normal?

Gary,

I'm just going to buy another stock 3G alternator, I think it's 95 amp. I may just clean this one up and paint it if it works OK.

My 2" offset isn't normal...I did it to clear the new power steering box I installed. I don't think anything is really considered normal with these swaps...anybody that I've talked to said there are no rules...every single one is different. I moved my radiator/core support ahead a couple inches...maybe 3". These trucks had two core support/radiator positions...one for V8, and one for inline 6. Most modern V8 swaps require the radiator be moved forward to the 6cyl position for the extra room.

Gary Lewis

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Administrator

I wonder if the cars had two positions for the radiator?

On the alternator, pull it apart and paint it. I've powder coated them, and it worked ok but took a lot of time.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

85lebaront2

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Administrator

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

Gary, on a '54 there may be room in front of the radiator for a thin pusher fan.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

Gary Lewis

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Administrator

Yes, Bill. That's what I suggested to him. We will see this spring/summer when it warms up as he will want to do something.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Rembrant

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Gary Lewis wrote

Yes, Bill. That's what I suggested to him. We will see this spring/summer when it warms up as he will want to do something.

Gary,

The fan I bought is only 2.48" thick at the motor, and core mounting kits are available so it can go right on the rad if need be. I wanted the shroud and had just enough room for it, but it adds 3/8" or 1/2" or so.

Gary Lewis

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Administrator

Thanks, Cory. But I don't think he has that much room between the water pump pulley and the radiator. I wonder if there is a shroud with two fans? Would that make it thinner right in the center?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Rembrant

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

Gary Lewis wrote

So, what is the plan for the alternator?

I got my battery mount back in place yesterday and I'm now trying to figure out the best way to run all of my heavy duty wiring. My Painless wiring harness came with a roll of red 6ga cable, and a nice little fuse block for the alternator (with a 150 fuse). I also have the original 3G harness from the 1996 F150. The 3G wiring seems pretty simple...there's only two wires in the original harness...the large one that goes to the battery or starter solenoid and one for 12v switched?

Anyway, the starter solenoid is on the firewall, and I was going to leave it there, but in looking at the picture maybe I'd be better off mounting it over on the inner fender between the alternator and battery. I'm trying to think of the best way to do this.

Cable #1 from ALT to fuse holder.
Cable #2 from fuse holder should go to battery positive, or to Solenoid input side?
Cable #3 from input side of solenoid to PMGR starter?

I may run a cable from the ALT to the pos side post of the battery, and then from the top post of the battery to the solenoid, and then another to the starter. I'm trying to come up with the cleanest and simplest way to do this.

Oh, and what size wire do I need for the trigger wire to the PMGR starter? I seem to recall that it only draws 4amps?

Gary Lewis

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Administrator

I think I agree that the cleanest place for the starter relay is on the fender. And I believe I'd do it as shown below.

But on the trigger wire, the current draw apparently depends on the starter. Jim's PMGR from DB doesn't pull much but my PMGR from Powermaster pulls more than a Bosch relay can handle as I had problems with it. And when I asked Powermaster they said I needed to continue to use the big relay on the fender. Our page on PMGR Starters calls for a #10 wire.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

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