Larry the Lariat - My 86 F150 4x4

ArdWrknTrk wrote

chirkware wrote

Ahh, so that’s why the tanks changed in 85!  Also explains why the different application is harder to find. Five model year parts (80-84) vs two (85-86).

Imagine you were me with the one year wonder!  
A mechanical pump in '87 that only came with a very few 460 and H.O. trucks.
I have a two pin connector, feed and return, but the inverted 16-160 ohm senders that work with a bricknose fuel gauge.
Water temp and oil pressure senders are still the same as the Bullnose trucks, mind you..  

Oof! Sounds like the horror stories about all the one year only stuff on the 1967 Bumpsides!

(EDIT:  LMC hose WAS correct length, no mods necessary.)

I think I'll just cut the short hose that's already on it's way and add a piece of this aluminum pipe I lucked into finding among my junk to lengthen it.



1 7/8" OD is just over what the filler neck measures so I'm hopeful this should be a tight fit in the hose. It’s aluminum, so I shouldn’t have any issues with it rusting.

as long as it does not leak I cannot see a problem. debur the edges real well so that it wont scratch a leak into the rubber.

mat in tn wrote

as long as it does not leak I cannot see a problem. debur the edges real well so that it wont scratch a leak into the rubber.

Yep, that I'll definitely do. I'll probably push 2" of pipe in and use two stainless hose clamps on each end. Hmm...I better check to see how many of those I have left! I just went from needing two to needing six! 😖😂

New gas tank...I did NOT get the Spectra Premium. Instead, I got the LILAND GLOBAL IF6B. I decided to go with it because it said it was made of galvanized steel, and was powder coated. And it was cheaper. $133.62 including shipping and 9.25% sales tax (yeah, sales tax is high in TN, but no state income tax!) I'm not disappointed.

Did it come with new straps?
What will you use as an insulator under the bands?

I have had good results using a tape that was sold for sealing up windows. insulwrap I think was the name. no magic involved. I had a roll from a job in the van so I used it. it is a thin adhesive rubber based tape with a pale branded label. it fit the job so perfectly that I keep a roll just for this purpose. im sure that i got it at a window supplier but you may find something like it at the local big box home center too.

just a tip. I tape the tank side of the straps and flush trim it. it is always where it's needed that way. and I think it looks better than putting a wider band on the tank trying to guess exactly where the straps will land.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Did it come with new straps?
What will you use as an insulator under the bands?

It did not include straps, but mine were in good shape so I just reused them. LMC Truck has straps if needed and they aren't very expensive.

I cut pieces of roofing felt and doubled it up to replace the old insulators at the back, just reused the front ones as they seemed ok.



I was wrong about the LMC hose. IT IS THE CORRECT SIZE. A perfect fit. And it was $20 from them.



The sending unit was also a perfect replacement.



Vent and grommet from LMC was perfect too. I picked up 2' of 3/16" fuel hose to replace the rotted vent hose.



Tank is in now! Yay!

About the time I was gonna put gas in, I went to clean up after dropping the transmission pan on my 70. I had it all back together and then saw a spring sitting on the catch pan. Doh! So I dropped the pan, pulled the filter loose, and put the spring where it was supposed to be. SO GLAD I saw it. 😳 I was much faster the second time into that C4.

Looks like a major upgrade all around!  
So glad that you got the right fill hose.  

I love a happy ending. the hose looks almost like new old stock. I guess I better get on there and order one.

mat in tn wrote

I love a happy ending. the hose looks almost like new old stock. I guess I better get on there and order one.

Definitely not a NOS hose (made in Taiwan), but it was a good fit all around. Their vent and corresponding grommet were good too. No complaints with this order from LMC.

Amy tips on removing the dash bezel? From looking at it, I don't see how to pull it without dropping the steering column. Am I missing something? Ultimately, I'm trying to figure out why my wiper knob is loose.

The wiper and headlight knobs have to come off, and the 4 screws at the top of the bezel that hold it to the pad, and the wrap-around piece that covers the steering column.  Then the bezel swings back at the bottom and comes off.

the two knobs need to come off and they can be finicky. each has a notch in the shaft that allows you to use a small flat screwdriver to pull back the springlock and slip the knob off. then remove the screws that hold the bezel to the dash pad at the top. in some case it helps to remove the two holding the center bezel also to allow the dashpad to lift up a little. old plastics break easy so often I try to open the doors a little so to speak. the bottom of the dash bezel has two tabs that insert downward so after leaning the top back a little, lift up a little then you can swing it straight back towards the wheel. then you should have an easy access to the wiper control. most likely it's just loose and can be retightened.

Thanks for the tips guys!  At one point I was looking at removing the plastic from the column but then I never did.  I need to look in there anyway.  I can't get the tilt wheel to tilt (I *think* you are just supposed to have to press on the turn signal rod thingamajig), and the pin holding the shifter in place looks like its about to fall out.

I'm hoping to get interior stuff mostly sorted and brakes finished this weekend.  

I redid the rear brakes (sans bleeding) a couple weekends ago.  I've only visually inspected the fronts.  Pads and rotors look practically new, but the hoses are obviously old.  I plan on swapping some new hoses, but I haven't decided if I need to do anything with the calipers or just test them by driving.  I see I can get remanufactured ones from the parts place for $30 each that have a lifetime warranty, so maybe I shouldn't go cheap.  But I am cheap!   

The brake warning light is lit up on the dash.  I would imagine that might have been caused by the leaking wheel cylinder on the right rear.  I know on my 70 you have to re-center the rod in the brake differential valve (which most wrongly call a proportioning valve).  I'm guessing on these, it's similar, but in the proportioning valve.

I'm picking up new tires this weekend at a Walmart the next town over.  I'll then take them to the Walmart 2 miles from my house for the install...that is, once I have ONE of my trucks drivable.  I'm not sure I'm brave enough to drive Larry the two miles to Walmart on these 25 year old mud tires that look like a dried up lake bed.

I suppose at some point, I need to figure out if the AC does anything.  I'm not holding my breath that it works, but the compressor at least spins.

when you do venture into removing the column cover be careful. there is not only the wire loom for the turn signals but also a very fragile linkage from the shifter to the gear position indicator. it is a thin white formerly flexible plastic with a plastic connector on each end. if you are not careful you may easily break this. remove the lower dash access panel immediately beneath the column then the screw holding the cover to the column underneath. then you can splay the cover open and remove it. it does take a decent grip. I have found it easier to do with the shifter in the 1st gear position. set the brake first. Or chock the wheels if needed.  

mat in tn wrote

when you do venture into removing the column cover be careful. there is not only the wire loom for the turn signals but also a very fragile linkage from the shifter to the gear position indicator. it is a thin white formerly flexible plastic with a plastic connector on each end. if you are not careful you may easily break this. remove the lower dash access panel immediately beneath the column then the screw holding the cover to the column underneath. then you can splay the cover open and remove it. it does take a decent grip. I have found it easier to do with the shifter in the 1st gear position. set the brake first. Or chock the wheels if needed.

Great info, thanks! I’m gonna try to get into this tomorrow after work. Hopefully all goes well. It's nice knowing what to watch out for. 👍👍

The pin for the gear shift kept coming out on mine, last time I tapped it in place I put safety wire in there to keep it in place.

I have done pin repair on a few. one of the weak points is the cast alloy housing. the shift lever is held into it with a roll pin/tension pin. it is tight in the lever the same way a wrist pin is tight on a connecting rod and so it pivots in the cast. that wears out the casting. I have been able to drill this assembly out to receive a larger pin and this also gives more bearing surface. On the last one I tried I could not get the lever to drill so I went another route and so far, it seems ideal, if not a little bulky. I tried it on an unrestored truck so not as finished as needed on a pure truck. I chose a machine screw that fit the lever snug then fit two 1/4" long sections of 1/4" copper tubing. then drilled the cast housing out to 1/4". the copper bushes now fit into the casting just a bit proud of flush and the machine screw/ nut will compress the bushings into place butting into the lever. now the copper is the bearing surface. the bonus here is that it can be tightened as needed in the future. use a nylock nut and no issues of loosening.