Idi turbo junkyard list

I found what is apparently a truck with a bad transmission that hasn't had parts pulled.  When I asked the price it was 250 for everything associated with swapping a turbo in.  Now I am asking for advice for what parts do I need to get.

The parts truck is a c6 6.9 the same year as my Broncos setup.  It is a hypermax kit, with egt and boost gauges, and a cowl intake kit.

List so far
Up pipes
Down pipe
possibly the exhaust beyond the down pipe
turbo
Oil feed and return line
cdr valve relocation
Cdr block off
Intake hat
The boost gauge and line
Egt gauge and sender
Glow plug wiring?

If anyone knows anything else or has helpful hints they would be appreciated.

Also looking for hypermax instructions and parts list.  Additionally, I would happily take suggestions for must have tools or things to watch for when pulling the parts.

I don't know of that kit as I had not heard of them but I had a Gale Balks turbo kit on my 86 K5 full size Blazer with the 6.2 diesel. Installed it with 100k on the clock and sold the truck with 230k.

Any way I had to adjust the pump richer because you were pumping more air into the motor.
The more the pump was turned up the higher the EGT went and high GT was not good.
I was ok when I first did the install and turned it up but I had the pump rebuilt and told them I had the Banks kit and they side they knew how it needed to be turned up, they went a little more than I did so I had to watch the GT when under boost.

Check the EGR lines IIRC there was a valve I had to plumb in or something?
I did not have to do anything with the glow plugs.
Dave ----

That is a screaming deal! Opinions vary on this system due to the length of the up pipes, but guys running the set up seem to really like it. If it were me, I would at least wrap the up pipes when you reinstall it.

A good place to start as far as what to look for in the junkyard is the Hypermax website. If it’s an older kit, it probably isn’t the “pulse system” set up, but they still have the conventional system for IDI Ford econoline vans as well as S series international trucks. I would print out both parts pictures and bring that with you.
https://www.gohypermax.com/Catalog.aspx?category=2ed72209-e460-4eef-a5b6-9be62fab40f4&sub=f8c6083c-90fd-46a0-9759-af9579f7dc8e

Hypermax is one of those systems that has different up pipes for different transmissions. I don’t know if the junkyard truck matches what you have, but if not it would be worth buying anyway. You can modify them or Hypermax may still sell them.

Take pictures as you go. Pay attention to how they have the fuel return system plumbed. ATS moved the passenger side cross over in front of the intake inlet to keep it away from the hot turbo. Hypermax may have done the same, and you might need the injector caps. Just remember the 7.3’s went to bigger cap barbs and return hose because of the larger injection pump plungers, and they need to match, obviously. So if it’s a 7.3 truck you may need all of the caps and return hose if your 6.9 still has the old, small diameter stuff. Definitely grab the pyrometer and boost gauges. Pyrometers are pricey. Bring a hacksaw and a couple extra new blades in case the exhaust after the downpipe does not want to cooperate. You might find stubbies, 12 pt and swivel tools useful in the tight spots but I don’t have direct experience with Hypermax. Get the oil drain grommet any any other seals even if they are bad so you can size them up. Hypermax may still sell new ones, but if not you have something to go by. In addition to CDR relocation, late 6.9 and 7.3 may have the glow plug controller relocated. IDIT had it on the passenger valve cover, and Banks had a bracket to mount it on. If Hypermax is similar, grab it even if you are using the old 6.9 type that threads into the head. You may change your mind and want the later style at some point.

Best of luck! Go grab that set up before someone else does!

UPDATE

So I took a good look at the truck today and made the deal to take the parts for 250.  I didn't get everything pulled before I ran out of energy/daylight, but I got a good start.  Hopefully tomorrow I can get the rest pulled.  

It appears the transmission went out, and the truck was parked behind a freind of the owner's garage and this occurred a few (5-8?) years ago.  The turbo seems to be free and very little if any shaft free play.  I suspect there are not a lot of miles on the turbo setup.  You can tell it is a well designed kit the way parts come out.

My nephew and I made a good attempt to pull the parts in the limited time I had this afternoon, but some pieces fought us.  

Items removed and hauled home
Up pipes (both sides)
Air cleaner mount
Air cleaner
Cold air/cowl intake parts
Egt/boost gauge
Intake manifold cover (carb hat looking part)
Intake o ring
Intake rubber expanding plug
C6 dipstick

Needed to get removed yet
Turbo (the 4 nuts are on tight... Suggestions?)
down pipe (not sure how to get it off turbo yet)
The mid pipe is loosened up from the down pipe and exhaust, but i havent been able to separate them yet.
Kick down linkage
Turbo mount/pedestal
Oil feed line
Oil drain line



Mostly we have had good luck removing the parts.  I was shocked the exhaust manifold nuts came free so well.  We had a small misunderstanding and my help cut the wires for the egt gauge.  (He has been such great help I didn't have the heart to tell him I had wanted to not cut anything)  The truck had the same transmission as my bronco (c6), but is allegedly the reason the truck was parked.  It has a doug nash overdrive that wouldn't work for my 4x4 bronco, but was neat to see.  

I admit I am excited find this deal, but was a little overwhelmed when we started pulling the parts.  It was cold and pretty dirty, but the thought of getting the turbo onto the bronco made it easy to be motivated.  I am hopeful we can get it all removed tomorrow if I can get away from work in time.  Last night was a late night rush trying to research all I could and today I missed a couple tools I needed at home.  Tomorrow should go smoother I hope.  I am very worried about getting the down pipe free from the turbo, and the turbo from the mount.   We shall see.  Updates tomorrow.  Hopefully pictures.  Only grabbed a couple shots today.

I found this image in the hypermax documents I got downloaded.







Just a few pictures from day 1 before heading out day 2.

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Is it an option to remove the pedestal bolts and take the rest out in one piece? I would leave as much together as practical. I would try to separate the down pipe from the turbo and see if the rest will lift out once the down pipe is out of the way.

The DNE is a fantastic piece. Justin from IDI performance mounted a 2wd one on the output of a 1356 transfer case but you have to be very careful not to engage it in 4x4. In your case you don’t have enough wheelbase. If the guy is selling it on the cheap you could flip it and make some money though. They bring it quite a bit on eBay.

old55pete wrote

Turn in a 1/4 turn counter clock wise to up the fuel to match the fuel needs that the turbo will create. If this is not done the engine will run" lean" and over heat the pistons.

Actually it’s the opposite. With diesel, the more fuel you add is the hotter it will run. That’s how novices melt their pistons trying to squeeze a little more punch out of their engines without a turbo. The turbo adds air and allows you to burn more fuel safely. If you don’t turn the fuel up, the turbo will have little effect compared to natural aspiration. But you don’t want black smoke (just light grey at WOT) and you don’t want your EGT’s over 1,100*F under max load. Generally a turbo will have you running cooler than NA under most conditions.

NOT turning your fuel up cripples your turbo system in two ways. 1, your IP pretty much puts out what can be burned naturally aspirated. So adding air burns it a bit cleaner but does not add much power. 2, the turbo spools off of exhaust pressure form heat expansion of gasses. Adding air lowers the exhaust gas temperature, so at stock fuel settings the heat is low and does not spool the turbo very well, which cripples its effectiveness (i.e., you will have a hard time getting any boost out of it). Another thing to remember about building boost is that ignition timing and valve timing affect exhaust pressure. You can’t do anything about valve timing without switching cams, but you can build more exhaust pressure and help the turbo spool by retarding the injection pump timing. This will also shift your power band, so you will have to play with it and see where you like it for your set up and how you use the truck. Just be aware that the factory manual centerline of 8.5* probably won’t give you the best results with a turbo. The bigger the turbo, the more true this is. The little kit turbo’s don’t need much to get them going, and you may be happy with it at 8.5*, but if it isn’t building much boost you can try a little less timing.

UPDATE

Well it wasn't accomplished as cleanly as I had hoped by I am now the owner of a hypermax pulse turbo kit that is mostly complete.  It turns out the turbo pedestal mount was installed by a professional body builder and the 3 mounting bolts were torqued to just the amount where you have to wedge your knee against something, lift nearly your whole body pulling against the wrench, and hold your breath to generate just enough force to get them to start moving just enough to skin your knuckles up in a few new places each time you got them to turn loose...  But I digress.  It was a tedious process of figuring out how and when each bolt needed to be removed.  Once they came out it made sense, but until you figure it out it seems someone absolutely must have removed the cab to install the thing.   We (my nephew willingly volenteered to go along again) arrived at the location about 10 today and had a total of 5 bolts to remove.   It was a real battle to wiggle the down/mod pipes apart. Then we removed the 2 down pipe mount bolts and were completely unable to free the locking ring from the turbine side of the turbo.  I resolved that the solution was my trusty sawzall.  I marked alignment marks and proceeded to saw the downpipe off on a pretty straight easy to access area.  We coaxed the pipe free from the confines after a few more choice words and some very comfortable lounging on the top of the engine (my ribs are pretty sore).  This finally gave me access to the 2 last pedestal bolts.  While able to put the wrenches on them (too little area for anything other then a nice box wrench) I wasn't able to get enough torque to break them free.  So i got creative with some leverage modifications and finally we had the turbo and pedestal freed.  It took another 10 minutes of trying to adjust the angle and position to actually remove it from the area it was put into.  I am bummed about having to cut the downpipe, but I am not new to having to cut and reweld things like this.  I am pretty sure after the past 2 days I am set on waiting to  install the turbo when the body gets pulled off.  This will be a portion of the next phase of modification on the bronco when work slows down.  When we were all loaded up and headed home it was about 1:10.  

If anyone is interested the dual range doug nash is still available.  With the 2wd c6 (bad transmission) the owner said he would let it go for 350, 250 with the unit alone.  I really do not have the space/desire to have that in the bronco.   I told the owner I would ask around.  When I find some time tonight or tomorrow i will try and make a post specifically for that.

Congrats!  That sounds like a LOT of work, but it seems to have panned out well.  (I'm sure you can weld the down-pipe up.)  Should make a huge change on your Bronco.  

Ford F834 wrote

old55pete wrote

Turn in a 1/4 turn counter clock wise to up the fuel to match the fuel needs that the turbo will create. If this is not done the engine will run" lean" and over heat the pistons.

Actually it’s the opposite. With diesel, the more fuel you add is the hotter it will run. That’s how novices melt their pistons trying to squeeze a little more punch out of their engines without a turbo. The turbo adds air and allows you to burn more fuel safely. If you don’t turn the fuel up, the turbo will have little effect compared to natural aspiration. But you don’t want black smoke (just light grey at WOT) and you don’t want your EGT’s over 1,100*F under max load. Generally a turbo will have you running cooler than NA under most conditions.

NOT turning your fuel up cripples your turbo system in two ways. 1, your IP pretty much puts out what can be burned naturally aspirated. So adding air burns it a bit cleaner but does not add much power. 2, the turbo spools off of exhaust pressure form heat expansion of gasses. Adding air lowers the exhaust gas temperature, so at stock fuel settings the heat is low and does not spool the turbo very well, which cripples its effectiveness (i.e., you will have a hard time getting any boost out of it). Another thing to remember about building boost is that ignition timing and valve timing affect exhaust pressure. You can’t do anything about valve timing without switching cams, but you can build more exhaust pressure and help the turbo spool by retarding the injection pump timing. This will also shift your power band, so you will have to play with it and see where you like it for your set up and how you use the truck. Just be aware that the factory manual centerline of 8.5* probably won’t give you the best results with a turbo. The bigger the turbo, the more true this is. The little kit turbo’s don’t need much to get them going, and you may be happy with it at 8.5*, but if it isn’t building much boost you can try a little less timing.

Vary true on more fuel more EGT and the need to keep and eye on the EGT gauge.
Also the only time my Banks /6.2 made boost is under load, read moving. If you were to just stab the throttle the boost gauge would not move.
When I installed my system it turn a dog into a big block gas motor as far as driving but had the MPG of the diesel it was great!

Also may want to up the dia of the rest of the exh. system.
My 86 Blazer had factory duels but the banks kit cane with single 3" from down pipe to tip of tail pipe.
Dave ----

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Nice find!!!!
I don't know where you are located, but I would be interested in the OD unit. I have a 74 F100 2wd with 390/c6 that could use an OD, and I have been looking for something like that.

When I started planning a diesel swap in my 80 F150, I had initially intended to find an IDI and adapt a turbo to it, but then ran across a smoking deal on a 5.9 cummins.
I'm sure you will love the improvement the turbo makes once you have it on.