Headers

I foresee myself having the exhaust system re-done on my truck in the future. The current system is not the OEM and was done almost 15 years ago. The tailpipes are just about to rust through. When I do, I'd like to do the whole system at once, headers back. I have a set of Ford Lightning headers on it now that are rusted and appear somewhat restrictive. Frankly, I'm surprised they were on a Lightning Pickup. Would like to acquire a set of quality stainless shortie headers, preferably used. Trying to get off on the cheap.

I know 302 headers will bolt on to 351 heads but will, for example, a set of shorty headers from a Mustang fit on our trucks? Wondering what my options are in this when I go to look?    

simply put yes. I have found that each time I use "truck" headers designed to fit the factory y pipe i have fit problems. many on other trucks and only one of my own. as a rule, I use shorty headers from a mustang. I know many may cringe at that and may wish me burned at the stake but there you go. I have my reasons. fit just happens to be the main one. truck headers generally turn down more to fit the y pipe going under the oil pan in front of the bell housing and across to join the cat on the passenger side. I have done and will continue to do custom exhaust. I have done a few different versions to achieve flow without being loud. i love to hear a v8 especially one with a rumble but it should be able to still be enjoyable after a 500-mile trip.  the mustang style headers have outlets facing further back and at a shallower angle. do not mistake the early mustang headers for this! I'm using "fox body" headers. not the factory but the aftermkt ones with larger tubes. on the driver side the header comes about one inch from the pinch weld seam of firewall/floor pan. no clearance needed but available if it were needed. and it's the header flange so clearance of the pipes is still three inches. better than a cat to heat shield from factory

Hey John,

I went with truck shorty headers on my '84, and I really liked them. They seemed to stand up well too, as they discolored a little with heat, but they didn't rust at all. They were the BBK 3510's. I believe there is a different set again for the 351w. They weren't cheap however, and the gaskets and bolts that came with them were no good, so they had to be replaced before I even installed them.




Having said that, if you do end up going with headers, make a note to buy Remflex header gaskets. I had two engine shops recommend these as "set-it-and-forget-it" gaskets, and they were right. Never did leak.

I hate to go against what Mat says above about Mustang headers, but I'd be a bit leery of them myself. I know some guys make them work, but I've read a lot of reports of guys that couldn't make them fit. A lot of things come into play with fitment of them, and the slightly taller 351W might aggravate that a bit as well (Mustang headers are meant for a 302 after all, at least the Foxbody ones). A lot of guys have issues with them getting in the way of shifter linkages, and hydraulic and mechanical clutch equipment. I assume they're OK with certain automatics...I'm not sure.

The good news about Mustang headers is that they're everywhere, and pretty easy to find used, so if you did buy a set and they didn't work, you won't be out much money. I have a set of Foxbody stock shorty headers here. If you were just down the road I'd give 'em to ya for test fitment!

The other thing is to look on Ebay, Amazon, and elsewhere. I just ordered a set of stainless shorty block hugger headers for my 5.0 project, and there were like $129 bucks, plus $20 shipping (shipping to you likely would have been free). I have talked to a couple of guys that have been running the cheap Ebay headers for a few seasons now, trouble free. I figured for the price, they're worth the risk. So if you do look at the Mustang headers, you should be able to find used ones for a decent price, and if you can't, you can buy new Chinese ones for the same or less.

gentleman all is good. you are not going against anything. I only share what has worked for me. my project which I'm wrapping up is an 86 xlt, lb, 2wd with the 5.8 h.o. certainly more of an h.o. now. this one does have the mustang headers and it is a great example. when I have used them on the 5.0 there is even more clearance

Hey John,

My El-Cheapo EBay headers showed up yesterday, and for money spent I'm pretty happy with them. The fit and finish is decent, and the bolts and gaskets that came with them all fit and seem good. For $129 or whatever they were, they were worth the risk. No good for a Bullnose obviously, but I had to go with the block huggers in my '52 build. Only issue with them...and nothing to do with them being Chinese, is that the block hugger headers don't leave much room for the starter. Otherwise I'm happy with them, and they look pretty good. My aftermarket tubular crossmember is bolted up here to make sure it clears also. It's close, but there's room.

They look good, Cory. But that starter sure is close. Do you think a blanket will suffice, or will you have to have a heat shield?

Gary Lewis wrote

They look good, Cory. But that starter sure is close. Do you think a blanket will suffice, or will you have to have a heat shield?

I was thinking of using some header wrap around the collector and flange. Are there starter blankets?
On the upside, it's not like this thing will get driven all that much...couple thousand miles per year.

Yes, there are starter blankets.  But header wrap would work.  Or, if there's enough room, a spacer between will make a big difference.

I know some manufacturers of even stainless headers will claim that header wrap will void their warranty, but I can imagine even having the collector and pipe wrapped would help too. but hey headers warranty voided for wrap vs starter warranty voided from being in a blast furnace. hmm take your pick. I would wrap them nice and pretty! way too many benefits to worry about the small stuff

Cory, thanks for the input! They do look good. Are they stainless? Which exact header off ebay did you acquire? There are tons, I know......probably all coming out of the same Chinese factory.

Hey John,

Not sure if this link will work, but try this one below. Note the title says "SBC" LOL. Shipping was only $20 from the other side of the continent (California) and across the border, so that's very cheap for me. They were only $129 a couple weeks ago when I ordered them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/373435736664?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item56f2812258:g:CC8AAOSwbTRh6LV9&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAC0PYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSafTQYbq3L7RBVAMi0K9cw86PsGb3kpaKDlcxJH2zI2loVrQIu1HycWLQNcsSb3cwzDSXEOge3biWM0KPQgIICcJuqV0TC8Sw7DvWu8kMnq2FRVfrmu327hNz1xzvt9uAjIy%252B57Tn8Dbo%252F6GKSP3bQMSeTVKs0zmKrQzJE3Pz9hO2HTdySqUhju2eBx8GfXkKGqD4%252F4UpHff1AbHU0HnYGo%252Ba0Aw2Lx4fc0K4ocG8BCnuhp4BNhY%252FW9s5S43W6fASUV5lk8pEZAUjCXX%252Behx0NcCul4Ijoq%252BSAgiHrxdSS0MbMdqYTNKnartAGh4oD1QqB%252BESwegFCtyf8wOez2zsroLJDRKiY8Pg0uT4azyfSypkvtjIYoDPIGOyr%252Bxk3%252BakNKepGwNv8M1MSgTOyV84gen4cn29WEaY5Rwg3tUwxeZ9NGN3y6g2WtZC6fRKtrnDmZ6COF%252FE%252BrjOODitRQ5xQI%252F7GwLfjb8eK1fOEoZowJX7gTYMJ85rqc2m9TDpmA4yPUJ1DhExqySqrkn%252B36VJbJ4ESvkpqLCkSsUhR1ujjmnmWk9rPXAYW75orBnCIYvbu7LT2WittkJUJXMxrOZD3mngx9ETQL3tNEPr2zONerme%252F0pLnULTkwAW56eWSrARAIDEbEcLSEb%252FaJFMhpdEZdBCsJvufTkejor0%252FpCG3ZKNMH%252B4clxttOSMv0MNPgh0jYqtzm8dCNt2oBnsUIp6tu%252FRoUIe9JAL8m0Gy6f9qR4AdWueBqepgsMg6d5zXbC4p03CR6qEg50iejyQlHbuAe7d6pJpswBKr93mKoVJviHdKF1C5L%252FREiPnjdu2cL5Yj75EOaYykoYGsXxw%252BI7G0RTjKPbyWPrOX0%252BB88toSM%252FT9SAjc0lMM7yn84oQr80yukO5lEOdvhCuhkJSz6BoGg%253D%253D%7Cclp%3A2334524%7Ctkp%3ABFBMmJWs6c9f

mat in tn wrote

I know some manufacturers of even stainless headers will claim that header wrap will void their warranty, but I can imagine even having the collector and pipe wrapped would help too. but hey headers warranty voided for wrap vs starter warranty voided from being in a blast furnace. hmm take your pick. I would wrap them nice and pretty! way too many benefits to worry about the small stuff

Always have to weigh the pros and cons, right?

Even if it did cook the starter, I'm not even overly concerned about that...UNLESS that is I have to remove the header to replace it LOL. I won't know until the trans is bolted up, but it looks like there will be enough room to remove and install it with the header in place.

 you might bolt a "take off" to the header to simulate the exhaust and see if the starter can be removed or not,

Machspeed wrote

I foresee myself having the exhaust system re-done on my truck in the future. The current system is not the OEM and was done almost 15 years ago. The tailpipes are just about to rust through. When I do, I'd like to do the whole system at once, headers back. I have a set of Ford Lightning headers on it now that are rusted and appear somewhat restrictive. Frankly, I'm surprised they were on a Lightning Pickup. Would like to acquire a set of quality stainless shortie headers, preferably used. Trying to get off on the cheap.

I know 302 headers will bolt on to 351 heads but will, for example, a set of shorty headers from a Mustang fit on our trucks? Wondering what my options are in this when I go to look?

You can get these in Hedman for a 351W and a 302, these are the ones I will be using on my 302 in my truck once I can get the engine finished.

They are made my Hedman listed for fitting 86 - 96 trucks/broncos and we all know 80 - 86 is our generation the reason they start off at '86 is for the fuel injection option having the 02 sensor port in the collector which on mine I will be plugging as I will be installing a bung in the Y pipe a bit further down for a better reading of one bank.

Mine are the black painted ones that I will be sending out when money and time permits to have them ceramic coated.

Passengerside showing all the room in the world between the street header and the starter


Driverside close fitting to the point that I had to heat and flatten cylinder 5 tube as its designed to clear OE cylinder heads not aftermarket heads like my AFRs.


I personally will be getting the flowmaster Y pipe complete with slip on converter, I will sell the converter for the material to recoup some of the money spent on it and will run straight 2 1/2" pipe to a 2 1/2" Magnaflow 6" round 3 chamber muffler then find a local shop to custom bend me a 2 1/2" tail pipe.

Rembrant wrote

Hey John,

I went with truck shorty headers on my '84, and I really liked them. They seemed to stand up well too, as they discolored a little with heat, but they didn't rust at all. They were the BBK 3510's. I believe there is a different set again for the 351w. They weren't cheap however, and the gaskets and bolts that came with them were no good, so they had to be replaced before I even installed them.




Having said that, if you do end up going with headers, make a note to buy Remflex header gaskets. I had two engine shops recommend these as "set-it-and-forget-it" gaskets, and they were right. Never did leak.

I hate to go against what Mat says above about Mustang headers, but I'd be a bit leery of them myself. I know some guys make them work, but I've read a lot of reports of guys that couldn't make them fit. A lot of things come into play with fitment of them, and the slightly taller 351W might aggravate that a bit as well (Mustang headers are meant for a 302 after all, at least the Foxbody ones). A lot of guys have issues with them getting in the way of shifter linkages, and hydraulic and mechanical clutch equipment. I assume they're OK with certain automatics...I'm not sure.

The good news about Mustang headers is that they're everywhere, and pretty easy to find used, so if you did buy a set and they didn't work, you won't be out much money. I have a set of Foxbody stock shorty headers here. If you were just down the road I'd give 'em to ya for test fitment!

The other thing is to look on Ebay, Amazon, and elsewhere. I just ordered a set of stainless shorty block hugger headers for my 5.0 project, and there were like $129 bucks, plus $20 shipping (shipping to you likely would have been free). I have talked to a couple of guys that have been running the cheap Ebay headers for a few seasons now, trouble free. I figured for the price, they're worth the risk. So if you do look at the Mustang headers, you should be able to find used ones for a decent price, and if you can't, you can buy new Chinese ones for the same or less.

lol I didnt use the gasket nor the bolts on mine that came with my Hedman headers I opted for the black oxide 6 point ARP bolts theirs were some crusty looking chinese made bolts it looked like and their gasket was a in house fiber type gasket, I went with a hedman header gasket that has the steel core to help prevent blow out.

Rusty_S85 wrote

They are made my Hedman listed for fitting 86 - 96 trucks/broncos and we all know 80 - 86 is our generation the reason they start off at '86 is for the fuel injection option having the 02 sensor port in the collector which on mine I will be plugging as I will be installing a bung in the Y pipe a bit further down for a better reading of one bank.

The reason they say they only fit the later model trucks isn't because of the O2 sensor, it's because they're made to fit the factory Y-pipes, and they won't fit the Bullnose years Y-pipes. The carbed 302 had the flapper valve in the exhaust on the driver's side (to close the left side exhaust off and force it through the crossover in the intake). The BBK and JBA truck shorty headers are listed to fit the same year 302/5.0's ('86-up) but neither of them have O2 sensor bungs.

I got the Summit store brand shorty headers.  They were not too expensive.  They are listed for '87 and I also plugged the O2 sensor hole.  I got the ones for the 302 because they looked closer in shape to the cast iron manifold, and I got them bolted to the existing pipes, but they didn't seal well.  I probably could have done it with more torque, but I was having the rusty pipes replaced soon anyway.  The 351 headers the sell would need new plumbing on the passenger side as the collector drops down more like the block huggers they are showing in this post.  Mine are tight with the frame, but I have no issues with my starter.

Rembrant wrote

Rusty_S85 wrote

They are made my Hedman listed for fitting 86 - 96 trucks/broncos and we all know 80 - 86 is our generation the reason they start off at '86 is for the fuel injection option having the 02 sensor port in the collector which on mine I will be plugging as I will be installing a bung in the Y pipe a bit further down for a better reading of one bank.

The reason they say they only fit the later model trucks isn't because of the O2 sensor, it's because they're made to fit the factory Y-pipes, and they won't fit the Bullnose years Y-pipes. The carbed 302 had the flapper valve in the exhaust on the driver's side (to close the left side exhaust off and force it through the crossover in the intake). The BBK and JBA truck shorty headers are listed to fit the same year 302/5.0's ('86-up) but neither of them have O2 sensor bungs.

You sure about that?

My '82 doesnt have the heat riser in the exhaust on neither side and its the OE manifolds and OE Y pipe.

Rusty_S85 wrote

Rembrant wrote

Rusty_S85 wrote

They are made my Hedman listed for fitting 86 - 96 trucks/broncos and we all know 80 - 86 is our generation the reason they start off at '86 is for the fuel injection option having the 02 sensor port in the collector which on mine I will be plugging as I will be installing a bung in the Y pipe a bit further down for a better reading of one bank.

The reason they say they only fit the later model trucks isn't because of the O2 sensor, it's because they're made to fit the factory Y-pipes, and they won't fit the Bullnose years Y-pipes. The carbed 302 had the flapper valve in the exhaust on the driver's side (to close the left side exhaust off and force it through the crossover in the intake). The BBK and JBA truck shorty headers are listed to fit the same year 302/5.0's ('86-up) but neither of them have O2 sensor bungs.

You sure about that?

My '82 doesnt have the heat riser in the exhaust on neither side and its the OE manifolds and OE Y pipe.

What I meant was that the reason they say they only fit 1986 or 1987-up is that they don't fit the earlier Y-pipes. It doesn't have anything to do with the O2 sensor bung, because some of them don't have them at all, like the BBK and JBA shorty truck headers.

The selling feature of shorty headers is that they're supposed to fit factory Y-Pipes, and they don't fit the pre-EFI Y-pipes.