Front axel replacement

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Front axel replacement

jdavidsmi
I have torn into the right side hub to replace the spindle bearing, a simple little project. The drive shaft was a bit loose so I figured it was the bearing. As it turned out the race way on the shaft for the spindle bearing is worn. The only solution I can find, is to replace the shaft. I have never opened a front differential on any truck I ever owned so I have lots of questions. Thanks in advance.

This is the Dana 44 1984 version with the axel retaining clips inside the differential.

Can the outer shaft and u-joint be replaced without opening the differential? I have a ball joint replacement tool to press out the u-joint.

If I have to open the differential,how do you support it while pulling the retaining clip? Strapped to the jack?

Should I replace the seal where the inter axel goes into the differential? Probably a good idea to.

How far can the differential be moved? Is it rotated? I have studied this for the past 3 days, both looking at the axel in the truck and the documents here. And still don’t have a good idea.

I will be grateful on any directions on this.

The new axel, spindle, spindle bearing kit, and wheel bearing set, should be here today. The inter axel appears to be in good shape.

David,
1984 F150 LX, 4x4 117 wheel base, Engine Code "F" = 302, 5.0 2/B,
Transmission code "A" = 4sp manual New Process model 435
Axle code "19" = 3.55 (ford 8.8) manf.  08/1983, in Norfolk
DSO code "21" AtlantaFactory Air Conditioner, Dash with Gauges
1990 Goldwing 1500
1986 F150 XLT, short bed, 5.0 automatic
2004 F53 Fleetwood Terra motor home
2017 Chevrolet Traverse
Home town Viola Tennessee
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Re: Front axel replacement

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
This post was updated on .
The passenger side can come out without cracking the diff open if it has the external retaining plate.

There are two types of retention on a D44, and I don't know exactly which ones are held in with a triangle bolt pattern plate at the output seal.
So, either it yanks out and you drop the clip inside or you've got to remove those three little bolts.

I'd say it's a good time to change that gear oil, but it's never really a good time to get in way deeper than you want to.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Front axel replacement

Gary Lewis
Administrator
If you already have figured out that yours has the internal snap ring, which it should as an '84, then the differential would have to come out to pull the stub shaft.

However, there's a slip joint, 3L387 in the drawing below, that should let you pull the outer shaft w/o pulling the inner one.  Have you tried that?


Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Front axel replacement

myrl883
At the dealer level, we did it as Gary suggested. There's a boot on the slip joint - take a clamp off and slide it apart there, leaving the inner stub joint with the differential.
Ford Parts Monkey since 1985
1981 F100 Flareside - Black, 302-4V Roller/AOD
1986 F150 Flareside - Medium Fire Red 302/AOD
1989 F150 Standard Cab 4x4 - Dk Shadow Blue 302/AOD
1993 F350 4x4 Crew Cab - 7.3 IDI/ZF-5
I think it's a sickness...
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Re: Front axel replacement

Nothing Special
In reply to this post by jdavidsmi
jdavidsmi wrote
I have torn into the right side hub to replace the spindle bearing, a simple little project. The drive shaft was a bit loose so I figured it was the bearing. As it turned out the race way on the shaft for the spindle bearing is worn. The only solution I can find, is to replace the shaft. I have never opened a front differential on any truck I ever owned so I have lots of questions. Thanks in advance.

This is the Dana 44 1984 version with the axel retaining clips inside the differential.

Can the outer shaft and u-joint be replaced without opening the differential? I have a ball joint replacement tool to press out the u-joint.
Gary and myrl883 already answered this, but yes.  Pull the outer two sections of the right front axle out after removing one of the "hose clamps" on the slip joint boot.  Before you pull it out you might want to note the orientation of the U-joints to duplicate it when you put it back together.

Since you don't need to take the diff out the rest of your questions are moot.  but since you asked...

jdavidsmi wrote
If I have to open the differential,how do you support it while pulling the retaining clip? Strapped to the jack?
Take the right side apart as described already, remove the left spindle and pull the left side axle out.  Then remove all of the bolts that hold the diff housing on.  This includes a big one (or two?) on the driver's side as well as the "diff cover" bolts through the driver's side swing arm.

On my F-250 I had to support the truck frame and let the axles droop to get enough clearance to pull the diff out of the truck.  But the whole thing will come out, including the last section of the right axle.  Then you set it on your work bench while you pull the clip.

jdavidsmi wrote
Should I replace the seal where the inter axel goes into the differential? Probably a good idea to.
I could be wrong about this, but I don't think you can replace the seal without removing the differential from its housing.  And you don't want to do that unless you absolutely need to.  I know that I didn't replace the seal when I had my front axle apart a year or two ago (I needed to replace all three U-joints).  It wasn't leaking before so I figured it was probably OK.

jdavidsmi wrote
How far can the differential be moved? Is it rotated? I have studied this for the past 3 days, both looking at the axel in the truck and the documents here. And still don’t have a good idea....
I'm not sure what you are asking for here.  The entire differential comes out together, with everything still in the cast housing.  You can move anything you want as much as you want.  Just don't remove the bearing caps.  That starts the process of removing the diff from the cast housing, which you don't want to do unless you have to.  Reassembling it isn't rocket science, but it pretty much does fit into the "if you have to ask if you can, then you probably can't" category.  (Which is not to say that if you haven't done it before you can't.  Even if you haven't done it before, if you are confident that you can figure out how to set up gears then you probably can.  Again, it's not rocket science.  But most people who've done it once realize why it costs so much to have a shop do it.  And a lot of people choose not to do it a second time.)
Bob
Sorry, no '80 - '86 Ford trucks
"Oswald": 1997 F-250HD crew cab short box, 460, E4OD, 4.10 gears
"Pluto": 1971 Bronco, 302, NV3550 5 speed, Atlas 4.3:1 transfer case, 33" tires
"the motorhome": 2015 E-450-based 28' class C motorhome, 6.8L V-10
"the Dodge": 2007 Dodge 2500, 6.7L Cummins
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Re: Front axel replacement

Gary Lewis
Administrator
I've heard that to pull the diff out of a D44 you have to slightly spread the case.  It isn't something I'd do if I didn't have to.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Front axel replacement

Nothing Special
Gary Lewis wrote
I've heard that to pull the diff out of a D44 you have to slightly spread the case.  It isn't something I'd do if I didn't have to.
I changed diffs in my Bronco's front Dana 44.  No case spreader, just pry bars to get it out and a big hammer and block of wood to put it in.  A case spreader would be easier, but a lot more expensive.

And I expect I will do it again.  But I get why it's expensive and why people are willing to pay for it to be done.
Bob
Sorry, no '80 - '86 Ford trucks
"Oswald": 1997 F-250HD crew cab short box, 460, E4OD, 4.10 gears
"Pluto": 1971 Bronco, 302, NV3550 5 speed, Atlas 4.3:1 transfer case, 33" tires
"the motorhome": 2015 E-450-based 28' class C motorhome, 6.8L V-10
"the Dodge": 2007 Dodge 2500, 6.7L Cummins
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Re: Front axel replacement

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Good to know.  Thanks!
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Front axel replacement

jdavidsmi
In reply to this post by Nothing Special
Thanks for the information, while I was looking at Gary’s post I realize I missed the slip joint all together.

Today I will be back at it, all the parts came in yesterday. While I have it apart I decided to replace the front brake pads, the rotors are in good shape.

Got everything cleaned up yesterday so I think everything is ready.

Thanks again everyone.

David,
1984 F150 LX, 4x4 117 wheel base, Engine Code "F" = 302, 5.0 2/B,
Transmission code "A" = 4sp manual New Process model 435
Axle code "19" = 3.55 (ford 8.8) manf.  08/1983, in Norfolk
DSO code "21" AtlantaFactory Air Conditioner, Dash with Gauges
1990 Goldwing 1500
1986 F150 XLT, short bed, 5.0 automatic
2004 F53 Fleetwood Terra motor home
2017 Chevrolet Traverse
Home town Viola Tennessee
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Re: Front axel replacement

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Good!

My experience with that slip joint was that it took a lot of force to get it to come apart.  And you don't have a lot of room in which to work.  Hope it comes apart for you.  Or, maybe it already has?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Front axel replacement

jdavidsmi
Made some good progress today, the axel came out with out much problem.

But I discovered the inter u joint was bad also. After reading the post, I really didn’t want to open the differential, I was able to remove the locking clips but couldn’t get anything on the u joint to press it apart. I decided to remove the bolt from the left side axel housing at the pivot point and see if the differential would lower enough to get the tool on. It did😀

I was able to press the caps off and remove the slip joint housing. Replacement of the u joint went smooth and putting it back in was not a problem.

While trying to put the axel back in it would not go through the spindle housing opening  ( I think that’s what its called) anyway I had to file away some of the metal to get the u joint through the opening. After that it all slipped right into place.

Tomorrow will be cleaning the hub and installing new bearing and races.

Thanks again for your help and good instructions.

David,
1984 F150 LX, 4x4 117 wheel base, Engine Code "F" = 302, 5.0 2/B,
Transmission code "A" = 4sp manual New Process model 435
Axle code "19" = 3.55 (ford 8.8) manf.  08/1983, in Norfolk
DSO code "21" AtlantaFactory Air Conditioner, Dash with Gauges
1990 Goldwing 1500
1986 F150 XLT, short bed, 5.0 automatic
2004 F53 Fleetwood Terra motor home
2017 Chevrolet Traverse
Home town Viola Tennessee
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Re: Front axel replacement

Gary Lewis
Administrator
David - Glad it worked.  And it looks like you figured out a couple of slick tricks to do it.  Well done!  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Front axel replacement

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
In reply to this post by jdavidsmi
Great job!  

I guess I need to dive into mine with the good weather were having now.
Seals, bushings, ball joints, and pivots.

I definitely intend to open the pumpkin because I haven't changed the gear oil in 100,000 miles.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Front axel replacement

jdavidsmi
Whoops, while cleaning the hub and inspecting the races, I discovered the boot from the slip joint on the work bench.  So I’m going pull it back apart to put it in.

So I put everything away, pulled the Goldwing out and enjoyed the afternoon, rode a couple of back roads with lots of curves. Had a hamburger and Coke at Sonics drive in. Haven’t done that in a couple of years.

With the holiday don’t think I’m going to do anything till Tuesday, maybe talk the wife into riding over to the Smokey Mountains.

Enjoy Memorial Day, and remember the men and women who gave their lives for us.
David,
1984 F150 LX, 4x4 117 wheel base, Engine Code "F" = 302, 5.0 2/B,
Transmission code "A" = 4sp manual New Process model 435
Axle code "19" = 3.55 (ford 8.8) manf.  08/1983, in Norfolk
DSO code "21" AtlantaFactory Air Conditioner, Dash with Gauges
1990 Goldwing 1500
1986 F150 XLT, short bed, 5.0 automatic
2004 F53 Fleetwood Terra motor home
2017 Chevrolet Traverse
Home town Viola Tennessee
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Re: Front axel replacement

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
Enjoy the ride!

I've hit ' The Tail of the Dragon' a couple of times.
It's beautiful country!

Blue Ridge Parkway is amazing too.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Front axel replacement

jdavidsmi
Yes I agree, I’ve done the dragon a couple of years back, blue ridge park way once on the bike, but in the car 4 or 5. I really like that trip.
David,
1984 F150 LX, 4x4 117 wheel base, Engine Code "F" = 302, 5.0 2/B,
Transmission code "A" = 4sp manual New Process model 435
Axle code "19" = 3.55 (ford 8.8) manf.  08/1983, in Norfolk
DSO code "21" AtlantaFactory Air Conditioner, Dash with Gauges
1990 Goldwing 1500
1986 F150 XLT, short bed, 5.0 automatic
2004 F53 Fleetwood Terra motor home
2017 Chevrolet Traverse
Home town Viola Tennessee
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Re: Front axel replacement

jdavidsmi
In reply to this post by jdavidsmi
It’s back together, and works like it should, miracles never cease.

Next project is to pull the motor and fix the leaks.
David,
1984 F150 LX, 4x4 117 wheel base, Engine Code "F" = 302, 5.0 2/B,
Transmission code "A" = 4sp manual New Process model 435
Axle code "19" = 3.55 (ford 8.8) manf.  08/1983, in Norfolk
DSO code "21" AtlantaFactory Air Conditioner, Dash with Gauges
1990 Goldwing 1500
1986 F150 XLT, short bed, 5.0 automatic
2004 F53 Fleetwood Terra motor home
2017 Chevrolet Traverse
Home town Viola Tennessee
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Re: Front axel replacement

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Congrat's!  Gotta feel good.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI