Engine Sludge

When I got my truck I knew there was a couple gaskets leaking. Yesterday I removed the valve cover and the side lifter rod cover (forget the name). No surprise, I found several huge holes in the gasket. What did surprise me was the amount of sludge in there.

First Question: Is this normal?

Second Question: What's the best method for cleaning out the sludge?

I used degreaser on the covers. Can I use the same stuff on the head if I plug the drain holes that lead to the oil pan?

I have attached photos. I'm sorry as I'm pretty sure there is a special format to get them to come though but I don't remember what it is. Let me know if they work or how to change them.

OH MY GOODNESS!  You win the prize for sludge!  

I've never seen anything like that.  That's awful, and you'll have to be very careful getting rid of it.

Yes, you can plug the drain holes in the head and use degreaser.  But I think I'd start with a putty knife and get as much out as you can by hand to give the degreaser a fighting chance.

But, what you can't see is what is in the pan, and there is surely similar stuff down there.  David/1986F150Six has a story about the stuff in the pan of his 300 that let go and plugged the oil pump pickup screen, and he had to have a mechanic pull the pan and clean it out to get the flow going again.

I don't really know what to tell you about the best approach to prevent that.  But you might consider biting the bullet and pulling the pan while you are at it, 'cause you stand a very real chance of having all of whatever is down there coming loose and plugging the pickup.

Or, you could  and use some ATF in the oil, changing frequently, and hope for the best.  But I wouldn't plan any long trips until you get it clean for fear that it'll let go while on the trip and strand you.

And to add more to David's story, he had been changing oil religiously for years and had driven the truck on several long trips, only to have it happen an hour into a 600 mile trip.  Luckily he was able to limp home with no damage, but it was a near miss.  The point being, that you won't know what is "down there" for years - unless you pull the pan.

Best way to remove it? B12 Chemtool.

Best way to plug your pickup? Also B12 chemtool. Several oil changes and pan drops later I'm having junk come out of my wife's Kia Sedona after doing that... and it wasn't as bad as this!

As indestructible as 300's are, I'd honestly say that the "best" option would be pulling the engine for a rebuild. Either this thing was fed a steady diet of vintage Pennzoil/Quaker state conventional (Pennsylvania oil is notorious for excessive moisture that causes sludge like this) or it never saw oil changes. Either way goodness know what else is jacked up... bearings, rings/bore, etc.

Otherwise, if you use any sort of a flush, you'll be at risk of debris coming loose and plugging your pickup at the worst possible time. Over and over again... lots of pan drops, which is especially no fun on an RWD vehicle!

please consider this. if you choose to use a detergent like atf, it may not work as hoped. it will not necessarily wash this away from the surface to the block, it may just as easily dissolve the chunks bond to where it accumulated, freeing large and small flakes and chunks and then create a log jam so to speak at any number of points on the way down. pulling the pan is by far the best plan. I would slow down and consider a few more points before going too deeply.
what is the goal of the truck?
how many miles are on the engine?
what service is it really due for?
then make an honest assessment so that you don't spend three thousand trying not to spend two

Thanks for all the thoughts. I'm going to take Gary's approach (which is the same I used to clean the covers) and putty knife first then go at it with the degreaser. Does anyone know how many/where the drain holes are located? I will also drop the pan. I'm sure that gasket is toast too. Not going to use ATF as I don't want chunks floating around in there. I really don't want to do a complete engine rebuild. This is just a fun project truck that I bought from a friend because the price was right.

you may find this a burden or a labor of love. it's different for everyone but around here it seems to be more of the latter. there is nothing like building or having built your own. I love all the thumbs up I get when driving my "baby bronco". but it's really bullnoses for me !

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble-td2281

What is this baby Bronco you speak of???

David - That's a must-read for anyone with an engine that hasn't been well maintained.  For it to happen to you after all of your babying over the years is proof that it can happen to anyone.  Thanks for sharing that link.

I built this 1984 bronco 2 in 2020 due to being placed on a covid hiatus. No boredom for me! No breeom

It has taken a ton of time and effort but after 1 round of cleaning this is what it looks like. I started with the putty knife then moved to a degreaser. After that, about 3 cans of Brake Cleaner. All the while using a small steel wire brush and a shop vac. My question now is, how clean should I be aiming for? I feel like it is unrealistic to think I'm going to get it all with all those nooks and crannies. FYI, I used ear plugs to plug up the drain holes. They worked well and should minimize contamination in the oil pan. When I'm done cleaning, I'll drop the oil pan to clean it out well too.

I think you've done really well.  It is unrealistic to expect to get everything, and it is really unnecessary to get it that clean.

perfection is not really the point, but oil flow is. the fewer bits there are to clog the pickup screen the better. and then routinely using a good detergent oil should help too. keep in mind that the bearings may already be a little compromised from the poor oil so don't go shifting at 6500. haha.  

WOWis all I can say on the before pictures

If you are going to pull the oil pan why use ear plugs to plug the drain back holes?
I know with the price of gas you dont want to use it but if there was something like it you could use.
I would drain the oil leave the plug out and using gas pour it over the head to wash anything there down into the pan and out.

It will also break up anything in the pan and wash it out.
You could then filter what came out and pour it back over the head and lifter area till they car clean.
Then drop the oil pan.

The other thing I would do is pull each push rod and make sure they are clean and can pass oil up to the rockers. Now the lifters could be plugged but you will know the push rods are clean.
Dave ----

great point about the pushrods. the lifters could be a worry too but here we go down that rabbit hole.

Good idea with the gas flushing the system. I've heard old timers say they would clean engines with kerosene. I have some of that laying around that I'd be willing to part with. Could I use that to flush it?

You can use kerosene, but as it isn't as thin/volatile as gasoline it won't cut the crud loose quite as well.  However, at the price of gas and if you have some kerosene then it would be worth a try.  It sure can't hurt anything.

I have a buddy who swears by starting fluid to clean engine blocks. He warned me to wear a mask for the fumes if I ever do it.

I believe that about starting fluid.  It'll take the chrome off a trailer hitch!
That the engine was running at all with that muddy sludge is a testament to the stoutness of the 300!