Diary of a Restore (Thread)

Gary, even with your relay to ground setup you still need a source of key on power...

To avoid the relay you could unpin 654 from C610 and take it directly to ground.
Unpin 65 from that connector and tap the blower motor feed (181at C603) which is a key on 30A fused BR/OR wire.

This would put the revised voltmeter on a low resistance circuit, before any appreciable load.
Voltmeters take barely anything to budge the needle.





This second schematic is from the '81 EVTM (and I know there are some flex circuit differences) but the '80 manual format won't let me cut & paste the image.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Gary, even with your relay to ground setup you still need a source of key on power...

To avoid the relay you could unpin 654 from C610 and take it directly to ground.
Unpin 65 from that connector and tap the blower motor feed (181at C603) which is a key on 30A fused BR/OR wire.

This would put the revised voltmeter on a low resistance circuit, before any appreciable load.
Voltmeters take barely anything to budge the needle.

Hey Jim,

Yes, Rocketman is quite explicit about the key on source.  

On the 80 EVTM could simply take a screen shot—easy on the mac—Shift>cmd>4 then drag the area with a mouse…instant snapshot.

I have a key on under the dash just sitting there—I think for radio or maybe a clock????  I will get the color of wire today to figure out what it is today. I planned on snipping the connector end and transferring to deutch connector today.  Also, gonna try to retrieve my broken ammeter today as well.  The only thing I hate to do is cut into that new printed circuit.  Why not shrink tube part of the post, and then cover in a rubber spacer with nylon washer?

Headliner comes off today as well.

Do NOT cut your flex circuit.
I'm not sure where you got that advice.  
Install exactly as the old ammeter and use the existing wires from under the hood.

Unpin the R/O & Y/LG ammeter wires at the 610 connector by the shunt near the starter relay on the right inner fender (shown as either side of the ammeter in the schematic above)

Gary has power going to the meter all the time and uses a relay to pull it to ground.
..... he still needs an unspecified key on to trigger that relay)

I'm saying to take the shunt connections and make one ground and the other key on (and accy) from the blower motor connector, which is close by.
This avoids the worst of the dash wiring resistance.
I don't know what wire you are considering, but my "logic" still holds.

Edit: clock has power all the time (obviously)
It could be radio, if you don't have one.
I'm not intimately familiar with the 1980 dash wiring but you should be able to identify it by color code.

AmericanSavage wrote

On the 80 EVTM could simply take a screen shot—easy on the mac—Shift>cmd>4 then drag the area with a mouse…instant snapshot.

Unfortunately my means of interacting with this forum is an old Android phone.  

Screwing around with screenshots involves opening multiple tabs, scrolling those multiple pages of the '80 EVTM, holding power and volume down, then going back up a level to reach the tab I'm posting in (that's IF my post doesn't drop into the void while navigating multiple pages) then clicking insert image, my files, selecting the screenshot and uploading it into my post.

It is MUCH easier to long hold and open the EVTM jpg, copy and paste the jpg's URL into my post.

The ammeter and 1G charge circuits don't appear much different to me across years except a few pins of no consequence on the flex.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

AmericanSavage wrote

On the 80 EVTM could simply take a screen shot—easy on the mac—Shift>cmd>4 then drag the area with a mouse…instant snapshot.

Unfortunately my means of interacting with this forum is an old Android phone.  

Screwing around with screenshots involves opening multiple tabs, scrolling those multiple pages of the '80 EVTM, holding power and volume down, then going back up a level to reach the tab I'm posting in (that's IF my post doesn't drop into the void while navigating multiple pages) then clicking insert image, my files, selecting the screenshot and uploading it into my post.

It is MUCH easier to long hold and open the EVTM jpg, copy and paste the jpg's URL into my post.

The ammeter and 1G charge circuits don't appear much different to me across years except a few pins of no consequence on the flex.

Tell me what page you want from the 1980 and I will do it and upload it for you!  Happy to help!

Thanks, but I just wanted you to see which circuits I was talking about to wire your truck for a voltmeter (if you decide to)

You see the blower power in the left side on pg. 80 of the '81 EVTM above.
Ford was very good about keeping circuit numbers and wire colors consistent across years.

It's not that I can't take and post screenshots. It's just fiddly from my phone.

Got the ammeter out—sure enough it is cracked.  Will be sending to Rocketman.  

Old Headliner out, new headliner in.  That Lokweld is fabulous to shoot.  Lots of careful wire wheel on a slow drill.  Much repair using resin/fiberglass for some areas, then wrapped the ends in alum. foil high heat capable.  All that to save the headliner board.  I do have pics if anyone is interested.

Also, here are the 2 switched wires—wht/ppl (or blue) and wht/green

Isn’t that the Bronco harness for the rear window?  Are these in all f series trucks?  

I need to figure out if BOTH are switch hot, or just one  Either way, I am going to deutsch it….

Up next—minor interior work including on the visors…then the slow reinstall.

Key on or Accy.

White/Purple doesn't seem to appear in the Bronco window up\down harness but it does show up as digital clock, 4wd indicator, rear window deicer, speed control and aux heater as fuse 6 (15A)

For the pickups it's clock illumination, 4x4 indicator and auxiliary battery.


Edit: 1980 screenshot showing u&f series side by side.....

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Key on or Accy.

White/Purple doesn't seem to appear in the Bronco window up\down harness but it does show up as digital clock, 4wd indicator, rear window deicer, speed control and aux heater as fuse 6 (15A)

For the pickups it's clock illumination, 4x4 indicator and auxiliary battery.


Edit: 1980 screenshot showing u&f series side by side.....

That was my first thought too, until I talked myself out of it, because, of the wht/green type wire fused to it in a single connector.  What is the wht/grn?

I must not be looking at the same picture as you.
I only see the two white/purple wires.

This is one instance that the EVTM will drive you crazy.
They only show the circuits in whatever chapter.
There is no full wiring diagram anywhere in the book.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I must not be looking at the same picture as you.
I only see the two white/purple wires.

This is one instance that the EVTM will drive you crazy.
They only show the circuits in whatever chapter.
There is no full wiring diagram anywhere in the book.

I have the full schematic blown up onto 11x17 paper—3 sections of it.  Sections 12.22-12.24

OK, so I snipped the wires today to install the deutsch—only one was hot in accy.  So, I spliced them together into a deutsch barrel.  

I was wrong on the different color—both wht/ppl.  

Also the 1980 EVTM does NOT line up wiht my fuse box, but the 1981 does.  Is this common?

Gary and others can point out many instances where the factory documentation has errors.
I don't feel bad for using the '81 EVTM illustrations now..  

Perhaps there was a running change in the fuse block harness and your truck was built later in model year production?
I'm afraid I can't offer insight. Maybe Ralph has more to say?

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Gary and others can point out many instances where the factory documentation has errors.
I don't feel bad for using the '81 EVTM illustrations now..  

Perhaps there was a running change in the fuse block harness and your truck was built later in model year production?
I'm afraid I can't offer insight. Maybe Ralph has more to say?

Hey Jim,

My Truck came off the line in Nov 1979....

Update:

Been really busy of late...including at the suggestion of a couple folks, doing some side work on plastic restoration for others.  Trying to wrap my head around all that.

Have not sent the meter to rocket man yet.

The dash is back together (I need to get a pic of it) and now the headliner and cab pillars need to be all put together.  One thing I did suffer was the dome light connectors BOTH all cracked and split AGAIN.  So, that set me back a few days.  I had extras, and did not want to buy the rather expensive Standard replacements that are still available, so problem solved for now.

With the bench removed I can get the rest of the interior done.

I am deep into the restoration of the bench seat.  LOTS of frame rust I am dealing with, but it can def. be saved.  

I have finished the back and now have moved onto the seat, where there need of the moment is I need a new flex-o-lator (grid).  Took me a while to track all that down.  No one carries it in the regular sites--LMC/Dennis/NPD.

I have tons of video on all this, and will share when I get my channel all set up.

Also, another '84 showed up, and I pillaged it for the cab pillars and other interior things, as well as the tension pulley for the AC.  It was the first I saw had a clock.  I did not take that tho.  If someone wants it, I can go back, get it, and mail it if it is still there.



Cheers!

Still following, but I understand doing side work for others.  Life isn't ALL about Ford trucks.  

Gary Lewis wrote

Still following, but I understand doing side work for others.  Life isn't ALL about Ford trucks.  

I will get pics as soon as I can for what has been done.  

On the side work—I am considering it.  I rather like doing this stuff rather than my other p/t job. And helping others rescue and preserve knowledge of things made great makes for a lot of satisfaction.  

Cheers!

I am serious about the clock btw.  If anyone wants it, let me know and I will go back.  I am not sure it works though.

CONTENTS DELETED

Been a busy week.

I got the bench reupholstered and back in.  I cannot find the pic of the seat back, but I know I have video.  

Here is the bench part reupholstered though—new flex-o-lator, and I laid down a batting between the grid and the foam seat (originally did NOT have that).

Door panels are shot next, and then the interior is pretty much done.

HOWEVER, would you not know, I fired up truck yesterday because it had been sitting during all this, and my fuel gauge only went to ¾. I proceeded to ground the send wire, and the gauge shot up to F rather quick.  Now, I will be dropping the tank. Any rec on a new sending unit?  Mine is 19 gal btw.

Cheers!

If you're going to pull the sender test the gauge action across full motion.
A new float is cheap. You can even get them in brass.
I've not had luck with 'new'' senders, but Carter is better than the ones I've got from LMC & Spectra so far.

Seat looks great BTW!  

Hey Jim,

I am not seeing any carter for my year…..I have a bit of time on this, but the timing is not the best.  I knew I’d want to drop the tank sooner or later, and so I guess now is the later.  I would not mind getting a new unit as I am sure this is original in it.  IF it is just the float, I have an extra unit for a spare.

I see the spectra and others, then a bunch of Dormans.  

Here is the seat back with one of the splits in the top foam, which I patched with foam using Lokweld.  It worked great.  

The upper and lower frames of the bench were rusty, so I took all the rust off, and treated with phosphoric.  Repainted.