Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum › Projects

1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

Classic

List

Threaded

216 messages Options

1 ... 4567891011

Gary Lewis

Re: 1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

Administrator

I don't really doubt his methodology. I've read plenty of his stuff before. But it is the way it is put together that puts me off. An engineer should have enough logic in his head to know that a blog is not a reasonable way to organize things. Searching for things with a Cntl F and then having to wade through dozens of hits isn't on.

Anyway, good luck! Keep us posted.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

nic55kel

Re: 1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

Gary I agree that the blog is a bit annoying to search through.
All I really care about is the data which hopefully checks out.
Further research leads me to believe that new lifters on an old camshaft is less of a faux pas than I thought.

Unfortunately I am not quite ready to test that out yet.

After backing the choke off and having the engine start easily and run as well as it could with the bent pushrods and after several such cold starts I thought that the no-start problem was solved. So all ready to tackle the lifter and pushrod fix I went to start it up for a couple of minutes to make sure the cam had as much of the new pennzoil on it as possible and

it would not start.

The only part I haven't changed is the pickup coil. Sort of hoping it was not that as I was not optimistic about it coming apart easily after 40 years. I successfully managed to get the small screws to release but the reluctor wheel is frozen on. I have sprayed it with penetrating oil and will let it soak while I cobble together a puller.
My love for this truck is truly being tested.

Bob near Winnipeg

1986 F250 Lariat extended cab 300 T18 2WD
1979 Honda CX500
1992 Oldsmobile 98 touring sedan
2007 F250 6.0 4wd

Gary Lewis

Re: 1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

Administrator

Yes, I understand what you mean about being tested. And, by the way, my experience on the reluctors is that they are fragile. So take it easy prying and pulling.

Good luck!

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

StraightSix

Re: 1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

This post was updated on .

My reluctor slid off fairly easily, Im sorry that yours is giving you fits. If I recall correctly, I used a wide blade screwdriver (maybe one on each side?) and popper the reluctor off not by prying with the length of the screw driver, but by applying torque to the handle to stand the blade up under the reluctor causing it to pop off. Mine wasnt locked up though, yours appears to have some rust. mine was clean.

I did all of this with the dizzy in my lap, I hate working on stuff while bent over the engine bay.

Good Luck!

EDIT - does youre engine still have all of its factory emissions equipment like functioning EGR? If not, I think this would be a really good time to put in recurve springs. I was playing with this when I flattened out the cam in my 300, so Im not completely finished with the process... but I was doing "seat of the pants dyno drives" and making adjustments to the mechanical advance when my cam died. I was feeling some pretty meaningful changes in the 1200-2500 rpm range based on timing.
https://fordsix.com/threads/distributor-recurve-help.62776/

1984 Bronco, mild built 300-6, Np435, 3.55 gears, 8.8 rear with Eaton TrueTrac, D44 TTB front, 31" tires, Duraspark II, Offy C, EFI manifolds, Holley 390, No AC, 3G alternator, front receiver

grumpin

Re: 1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

I used a puller, and once it came up a ways I could pull it off by hand.

One like this, if I remember correctly, I didn’t need a wrench on the puller, twisted it by hand.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7763906?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Tools-Equipment&campaign_id=8553470562&adgroup_id=107047174069&adtype=pla_with_promotion&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyvqUhJ-n8wIVj7mWCh3O3AQCEAQYBSABEgIArfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&

Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold
1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD
1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E
Arizona

nic55kel

Re: 1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

Well thanks all for the encouragement.
After letting it soak in penetrating oil for a bit I was able to pry it free with a home-made ladyfoot.
I took great care not to lose the rollpin.

After that easy to replace the pickup plate and put back together.
I lubricated the felt for the mechanical advance.

Put it all back together and still would not start.

Checked for spark = good.
Checked carb for gas = no gas???
Primed carb and started right up - this is a new one, I guess the float needle stuck closed.

Here in Canada the 4.9 did not come with EGR or catalytic converter prior to 1987 in the heavier trucks. One reason I was happy to find this engine that ran so beautifully for 400 miles or so.

Still have to do the work on the valve train but I want to make sure the no start is really fixed before I do that.

Bob near Winnipeg

1986 F250 Lariat extended cab 300 T18 2WD
1979 Honda CX500
1992 Oldsmobile 98 touring sedan
2007 F250 6.0 4wd

Gary Lewis

Re: 1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

Administrator

Well, at least you got it started. Hopefully the carb's needle won't stick again. Good luck!

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

FuzzFace2

Re: 1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

If the truck has been sitting for a bit the fuel in the evaporates in the carb.

This is normal with today's fuel blend and all of us with carbs go thru this.
The last time I used my pickup was a week ago and I have to crank it a lot to fill the carb before it would start and all I wanted to do was back it out of the garage so I could was it for a show tomorrow morning.
Dave ----

Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100

nic55kel

Re: 1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

Hi Dave,

I think you are right about today's fuel evaporating more easily, that is probably why my truck was flooding so easily with the choke adjusted for the older spec fuel.

Bob near Winnipeg

1986 F250 Lariat extended cab 300 T18 2WD
1979 Honda CX500
1992 Oldsmobile 98 touring sedan
2007 F250 6.0 4wd

nic55kel

Re: 1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

Well I found out what the lifter noise is.
It looks like the rocker arm stud has pushed out of the head.
Have to think and research a bit on what to do about this.
The stud is on #3 cylinder so I could just replace the one stud.
Decisions, decisions.

Bent pushrods:

I really like the idea of adjustable valve clearance.
Anyway have to give this some thought.

Bob near Winnipeg

1986 F250 Lariat extended cab 300 T18 2WD
1979 Honda CX500
1992 Oldsmobile 98 touring sedan
2007 F250 6.0 4wd

nic55kel

Re: 1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

Well after 15 minutes of in depth research and looking up parts I decided what to do.

I changed out 4 bent pushrods and put a 3/8" washer under the nut on the offending rocker stud - washer is about 50 thou thick. Fired it up with all the covers off and it ran beautifully again. Checked that all the pushrods were rotating and that all the rockers were getting oil and shut it down.

After I close it all up I will put some miles on it and see if the stud stays in its new position. It stopped at that point after moving maybe 40 thou so maybe it will happily stay there.

Bob near Winnipeg

1986 F250 Lariat extended cab 300 T18 2WD
1979 Honda CX500
1992 Oldsmobile 98 touring sedan
2007 F250 6.0 4wd

nic55kel

Re: 1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

I have decided to name the truck Christine as I swear it is possessed.

So I put it all back together and clear away the tools and clean up to take it for a test drive.
I get in the truck and turn the key and all I get is the clunk of the starter solenoid.
Check all the starter circuit connections to see if any feel warm (poor connection), all feel fine.
Pull the engine through a few degrees just in case the starter pinion is not engaging the ring gear.
Give the starter a few light taps, no luck just a clunk.
Get a short piece of #10 copper wire and jump the starter relay - fires right up. Take it for a test drive and all seems good.
So now to find a starter relay.

Bob near Winnipeg

1986 F250 Lariat extended cab 300 T18 2WD
1979 Honda CX500
1992 Oldsmobile 98 touring sedan
2007 F250 6.0 4wd

Gary Lewis

Re: 1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

Administrator

These trucks are like onions. You peel and cry, peel and cry. But soon you’ll have enough onions for a mess of onion rings!

Good luck!

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

FuzzFace2

Re: 1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

In reply to this post by nic55kel

nic55kel wrote

I have decided to name the truck Christine as I swear it is possessed.

So I put it all back together and clear away the tools and clean up to take it for a test drive.
I get in the truck and turn the key and all I get is the clunk of the starter solenoid.
Check all the starter circuit connections to see if any feel warm (poor connection), all feel fine.
Pull the engine through a few degrees just in case the starter pinion is not engaging the ring gear.
Give the starter a few light taps, no luck just a clunk.
Get a short piece of #10 copper wire and jump the starter relay - fires right up. Take it for a test drive and all seems good.
So now to find a starter relay.

Oh I know that feeling

When rebuilding my truck I replaced all the battery cables & ground wires.
It had been starting good all the time for almost 2 years then like you a clunk when I turned the key.
I could do this a few times, most of 3 tries, and it would crank & start.

One day I cleaned the battery connections and starter relay connections and it worked good for about 4 starts and then clunk!
I broke down and bought a new relay from NAPA, top of the line one as they have different levels.
Since I replaced it it has started every time I turn the key.
The old relay was used and dont remember if it was on my truck or the parts truck but I wasnot going to mess with used parts and hear the other parts store ones dont last and why I went top of the line NAPA.
Dave ----

(watch next time I go start the truck CLUNK!)

nic55kel

Re: 1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

Hi Dave,

I guess I shouldn't be surprised, it is a 40 year old engine. Anyway I have now changed the entire ignition system and the fuel pump, luckily parts for these trucks are still pretty cheap so I shouldn't complain.
I see there are different grades of relay and I will try to source a quality unit.

I just love how easy it is to work on the old inline six. I have had cars where you had to drop the subframe to change the alternator. It is a little uncomfortable having to lean over the grill or fenders but there is not much, in terms of common failure items, that you could not easily do on the side of the road.

I am sure the truck will soon have the reliability that the 300s are so famous for.

Anyway thanks for the feedback.

Bob near Winnipeg

1986 F250 Lariat extended cab 300 T18 2WD
1979 Honda CX500
1992 Oldsmobile 98 touring sedan
2007 F250 6.0 4wd

nic55kel

Re: 1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

This post was updated on .

Well I got and installed a new solenoid and went to start Christine - very rough running on only 5 cylinders.

I pulled the valve cover and #3 inlet pushrod is off it's rocker.

The stud was obviously working its way out farther:

This is why I did not want to do any work on the engine before I had driven it for a while. I wanted to know if there were any issues and I see that there are. I am quite sure that the short block is in great shape and that all my grief is caused by some of the valve clearances being right at the hydraulic lifter limit. This causes excess looseness of the pushrod if the lifter gets compressed when the engine is as rest, making it easy to throw a pushrod out of place on start up.

I see I have to pull the head and replace the rocker arm studs with thread in studs.
ARP has a nice set, perfect size but you have to use their locknuts that cost more than the studs.
I will have to see what other studs I can source.

Bob near Winnipeg

1986 F250 Lariat extended cab 300 T18 2WD
1979 Honda CX500
1992 Oldsmobile 98 touring sedan
2007 F250 6.0 4wd

nic55kel

Re: 1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

Well I ordered the screw in studs and locknuts to replace the pressed in ones.
I want to make sure that the tap is nice and square when I tap the hole for the stud.
Thought about it for a while and decided to make a jig.
The construction is pretty obvious. I drilled the critical holes one size undersize and then file fit them.
I then clamped the pieces together in the correct alignment and then welded.
I am very happy with the fit as it is really snug with no play when in place.
I will probably pull and tap the offending stud tomorrow although the parts will probably not arrive until Friday.

Pictures:

I am just going to change the bad stud for the moment because I want to make sure it works out okay before pulling the head and doing the rest.

Bob near Winnipeg

1986 F250 Lariat extended cab 300 T18 2WD
1979 Honda CX500
1992 Oldsmobile 98 touring sedan
2007 F250 6.0 4wd

Gary Lewis

Re: 1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

Administrator

Well done! That's ingenious!

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

nic55kel

Re: 1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

Thanks Gary.

Pulled the old stud, not surprisingly it came out quite easily. One thing to keep in mind if anyone is doing this is that the hole goes through to the water jacket so drain down the cooling system enough. I knew this and still forgot.

The tap guide worked a treat, the stud hole is 1/64 oversize for the tap, so no drilling is required.
The GM guys do it all the time on their vortec heads which have the same problem, they even have a special tool to ensure the tap is true.
It took sufficient force to cut the threads that I have no concerns about the threads holding. I put grease in the tap flutes to catch the cuttings. It all went very cleanly and no concerns about contamination.

After degreasing carefully I used very liberal amounts of threadlocker on the new stud to both ensure it stays in place and also to seal the coolant.

Now I will let it sit for a couple of days to really cure. It is supposed to be wet here for the next two days so no big rush to try it out.

Pulling the stud:

Starting the tap:

Finished tapping:

New stud installed:

Bob near Winnipeg

1986 F250 Lariat extended cab 300 T18 2WD
1979 Honda CX500
1992 Oldsmobile 98 touring sedan
2007 F250 6.0 4wd

FuzzFace2

Re: 1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

Nice job ......... only 11 more to do

Dave ----

1 ... 4567891011