1981 F150 Blue. Named Walter, for now anyway

Oh yeah, that looks F.A.B !!

Everything is looking really good Randy. It must be so satisfying to ride around in your fresh ride. Do you know if our trucks are missing the covers for the seat hinges or did that start after 1981? Because I noticed some Bullnose trucks have them.

Gary Lewis wrote

Thanks for that definition.  I was going to ask what "shine juice" is, but you beat me to it.

And it does appear to work.  The hood sure looks better where you put it.  But does it attract dust?

It does not attract dust, it soaks in and evaporates.   It settles to a nice sheen.   Feels weird for a few days, like it might attract dust, but I never noticed it the first time.   I wouldn't have redone if it did weird stuff.   It just really keeps the paint looking a little more "alive".  

Gsmblue wrote

Oh yeah, that looks F.A.B !!

 Couldn't have done it without ya.  

Jonathan wrote

Everything is looking really good Randy. It must be so satisfying to ride around in your fresh ride. Do you know if our trucks are missing the covers for the seat hinges or did that start after 1981? Because I noticed some Bullnose trucks have them.

Thanks.   I have those old door panels in a shipping box if you want them.  They might get you through for a while.  

I don't know about the hinge covers.  I painted my hinges fresh black before I sent the seat off.   Not having them is part of the "look" I want, so I didn't worry about them.  Should be an easy retrofit if you want them.

And yes, the carpet and seat refresh pretty much eliminated that old sweaty truck smell.   To me, the interior is more important than the outside.  When I'm driving the truck I only see the top of the hood on the outside.   But I see all that inside stuff.

Are you back???  Hope so.  

Nemesis F150 wrote

Have to agree with everyone else that the door panel makeover looks really great, and the passenger door pull strap really does add class. Looks good as new!

The door panels on my truck are the same as yours (even the same color) but the plastic has “browned” where the sun has shone on it. The plastic panels need to be replaced because where it has discolored the plastic has also softened, consequently, your step-by-step write-up for this project is very helpful. Especially with regard to the little details.

As the old saying goes, “The devil is in the details”.
My wife likes the pull strap, too.

After everything else done, I figured I may as well do those door panels so I could shut my mind up about it being done.  Only thing left is getting another door pull for my side.  $12 ish and some time to mask and paint, install.  

My originals were pretty bad - may be photos on page 1?   I sanded and painted them, but the passenger side had a couple small cracks in it.  

If you decide to do it and need any more help, let me know.  But it's easy - take everything off.  My only thing would be to find those retainer clips in advance if you have chrome trim on the doors.  

Thanks Randy, do you have room to hang onto the door panels for now?

As for the hinge covers I prefer to keep it however it came from the factory. Just not sure when the switch was made or if they fell off?

My truck smells very funky in the cab. Just a old musty smell. And the bed of the truck smells like a garbage dump because that is what it was. I need to wear a respirator and remove the camper top and pressure wash it out.

I will try to update my thread today.

rcarlisle wrote

Thanks.   I have those old door panels in a shipping box if you want them.  They might get you through for a while.  

I don't know about the hinge covers.  I painted my hinges fresh black before I sent the seat off.   Not having them is part of the "look" I want, so I didn't worry about them.  Should be an easy retrofit if you want them.

And yes, the carpet and seat refresh pretty much eliminated that old sweaty truck smell.   To me, the interior is more important than the outside.  When I'm driving the truck I only see the top of the hood on the outside.   But I see all that inside stuff.

Are you back???  Hope so.

Like you, trying to stay with as much originality as possible.  THe lack of hinge covers holds to that work truck vibe.  Ran into an old buddy other day in a parking lot.  He was looking awful hard at truck.  He said he was trying to figure out who it was - he thought it was pretty cool old work truck vibe.  He builds hot rods and drag cars.

I do have room.  If you decide you don't want - let me know - I will offer them up to someone else.   I know evetually you will have to have new ones.   But these would get you thru a while - they at least have tops in them.  LOL

And yes on the smell in the cab.  It was the smell of sweat and disappointment.   Now it's hopes and dreams.   And vanilla little tree.  Another homage to VGG.  Always keep one in there.

Yeah get that top off and give her a wash - if there is still stuff in there that can hold water, it will speed up rust.  Let it air.   Then should be nice.  

Hope it leaves the driveway soon.  

Been a while since I last updated, but haven't been doing anything.  However in last two weeks, I installed a new Equis Pro Tach 3" tach and today a new cheap Chinese carb.   Basically a bolt on and some idle adjustments and Bobs your uncle, it's running better and not leaking gas around the throttle shaft like the old one.  Ran up to 80 and had more left.  

Couple pics for posterity.

Looking good!  And, it sounds like the carb is a winner.  

Nice!

Update Jan 24, 2022.  Replaced a Sylvania Xtravision headlight that was date stamped 06222020.  Seems like less than 2 years is kinda short life for a highbeam element.   Made in China of course.  

Also - after much random throttle and choke issues (see https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Cheap-Chinese-carburetor-WARNING-tp112181.html), discovered that one of my throttle plate butterflies had lost a screw, letting the throttle plate move at random and not let the throttle close properly.  

I did have a pinging in the engine that sounded like the fan hitting the shroud, but more metallic.   Not a fun sound.   I hope the screw went on out the tailpipe.  

More update to come as repairs to carb are made.   CHECK YOUR CHINESE CARB FASTENERS.

Just for the record here - put the Autolite back on after doing some external cleaning.  Still fighting to get the choke adjusted to the "ideal" setting where the choke plate goes vertical at all temps in NC.  (20deg F and up).

Idle screws initially set at 2 turns out and gives 17 - 18 in on vac gauge.   Might run a bit snappier with a 1/4 turn in, but vac gets down to edge of "good" range.  So final setting is 2 turns out.  I have no idea where they were set when I bought truck.  

Also bought a new radiator cap - WHY would a shop install a new engine and all cooling system parts and NOT put on a new rad cap on the NEW radiator?  The old one had some checking in the rubber, so hopefully a new one will help contain the coolant better.  And help the system work better overall.  Truck has never run hot, but top hose never felt firm when hot.  

I responded about the choke in your other thread.

On the vacuum, 17 - 18 isn't bad, but it isn't good.  Depending on what cam was installed I'd expect more like 20 - 21.  But not until you get the choke problem sorted.  After that you'll have to re-adjust the mixture screws some.

My process is to find max vacuum/RPM with the mixture screws and then open them up about 1/8 turn.  That will drop the vacuum/RPM some but the engine will be happier and it'll drive better.

Yes I need to further adjust.  My question is HOW THE HECK TO GET TO THE SCREWS????  LOL.   I can access the passenger side better, even with the coil in the way.   Driver's side is behind the vac tube that goes to the distributor and makes seeing it very hard.   And finding a screw driver that will reach up in there.  Those screw heads need to be about an inch farther out.  

You say open another 1/8 - that richens the mixture right?  Before I started all this, my chrom exh tip was getting very black sooty on the edge, so I'm assuming I was running rich.   That's not very scientific, but all I got for now.  

I'm still studying carb operation.  I might be able to get to 20.  I saw 20 when it was on the choke, so it was running way rich.  Stock cam I'm sure in the auto zone reman that I know nothing about.  

Black does mean it is running rich - at some point.  But not always at idle.

Yes, open them up a bit and make the mix slightly richer than "best".

This evening, I want to do one thing.   Check to see if the choke is closing completely when I mash throttle to floor at cold start.   Then adjust that if necessary.   It is supposed to be around mid 40s temp.   SO if I close it to where it is lightly closed fully, THat should be a mid range.   When it's colder, the spring will contract even more.  Before I had the choke working at all it would start in the 50s with a few pumps of the pedal.  I suspect the hot idle was very adjusted very rich.

So get it closed, make sure truck is starting correctly.   After that, maybe drive and see where the linkage goes, although I suspect it will not open fully - why should it start functioning correctly now?   By then it will be too dark to mess much more.  

This is even beginning to drive my wife nuts that I mess with it so much and not get anywhere but frustrated.  Maybe we can take truck and get dinner, just to see what it does with several miles in a jump.  
 

Gary Lewis wrote

I responded about the choke in your other thread.

On the vacuum, 17 - 18 isn't bad, but it isn't good.  Depending on what cam was installed I'd expect more like 20 - 21.  But not until you get the choke problem sorted.  After that you'll have to re-adjust the mixture screws some.

My process is to find max vacuum/RPM with the mixture screws and then open them up about 1/8 turn.  That will drop the vacuum/RPM some but the engine will be happier and it'll drive better.

  Check it out...





On the choke, I was apparently going the wrong way with the screw in the white plastic piece.   After readjusting that this evening, truck ran great, allowing me to adjust on the idle screws.  Well see how it does tomorrow.  May still need to close up the pull off a little to get to 1/8".  I'm a little more than that I think.  

Thanks for your help, Gary

Looks great!  And glad you figured out the direction.  PROGRESS!

Update 2/16/2022: Got this pile of parts on 2/12/2022.  Some for me, some for Jonathan.  May go back for more.   Looking forward to getting the woodgrain dash bezel in.  Got some woodgrain vinyl coming to cover the bad spots

2/15 - added electric assist choke cap.  Wired to stator post on alternator.   Helps open the choke as it is supposed to.