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Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

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Rembrant

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Well, it took two weeks, and orders from multiple vendors from far away and just down the road, but I finally have all of the parts to get this thing back together (hopefully, at least...I could always find more trouble as I go as we all know...). I made three trips across the city yesterday to pick up items at the courier, and the post office, and then to drop off parts at the machine shop, and then pick up again, etc, etc.
Anyway, I have a new ring gear on the flywheel, and the 70 year old flywheel has been machined and is silky smooth again. I just installed a new Oilite bronze pilot bushing bushing this morning (It mounts in the flywheel, not the crank).

I'll be laying on the cold concrete all day today!

1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

nic55kel

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

I am sure it is right but the clutch disc does look small next to the big flywheel.

I always have big pieces of thick cardboard to put down when I work on the ground.
Have fun and you should have a really smooth working clutch when it is together.
I am sure you will love driving that great looking truck around.

Bob near Winnipeg

1986 F250 Lariat extended cab 300 T18 2WD
1979 Honda CX500
1992 Oldsmobile 98 touring sedan
2007 F250 6.0 4wd

Rembrant

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

I'm baaaack...

As of late last night, I finally have the old '52 back in business, but it looks like I may have traded one problem for another. Transmission is back in with new 10" clutch and pressure plate, new ARP bolts, new throw-out bearing, new bronze pilot bushing, and new ring gear on the original flywheel (which I had re-surfaced at a local engine shop). It is now nice and quiet...ring gear is not hitting the starter shield, obviously...but now I have a bad shudder when pulling away from a stop in forward or reverse. Once the truck is moving, all other shifts are smooth, and driving down the road it's as smooth as it was before. The only issue is pulling away from a complete stop. If I'm already rolling, even just a little bit, it is fine.

I am usually really fussy about re-assembly...but I have to admit that I did forget to clean the surface of the pressure plate. It did have the preservative residue on there as I remember seeing it, but anyway...in my haste I forget to clean it off.

I did some Google searches, and it appears that some people claim that a shudder will go away as a clutch gets "broken in", but just as many people claim that the shudder never went away without replacing something.

I don't believe it is anything external as the issue was not present prior to me swapping out all of these parts, and the shudder starts before the truck even moves, so I can't blame bad u-joints and leaf spring bushings (I've read that some people found these to be an issue).

Any thoughts good or bad from the experts and the 'been-there, done-that" crowd?

Gary Lewis

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Administrator

I’m in the “it’ll go away” camp. The clutch plate will wear into the clutch disk/pressure plate and the flywheel as you drive it.

But you can hasten it by slipping the clutch a bit. Not a lot or you can burn it. But a bit.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

Rembrant

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Gary Lewis wrote

I’m in the “it’ll go away” camp. The clutch plate will wear into the clutch disk/pressure plate and the flywheel as you drive it.

But you can hasten it by slipping the clutch a bit. Not a lot or you can burn it. But a bit.

Gary,

You just made my day, even if it ends up not going away...lol. At least I can have some hope. I've read reports of where it went away after 300-1000 miles.

Gary Lewis

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Administrator

Happy to help!

Big Blue’s clutch is/was grabby. I’m guessing that I have 4000 miles on it, and for the first 2000 it didn’t change much. But on the ~2000 mile trip to Ouray it got better. Maybe it was due to all of the action it saw, and it saw a LOT.

Anyway, drive it and slip it a bit as you do. I think it’ll wear in. (Or “ride up with wear” as they always say on Are You Being Served?)

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Rembrant

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

In reply to this post by nic55kel

nic55kel wrote

Gorgeous looking truck.

I like the way you originally said no major plans for mods and already that appears to be changing.
I can really relate to that.

I have some updates on the '52 Mercury project truck...feel free to make fun of me for deciding to make some major changes/mods when the original plan was to NOT do so...lol. I might be a bit of an addict...but the winters are long, and I like to tinker.

The old Flathead engine is really cool, and I honestly like it...it runs like a top, has a cult like following, and everybody that sees it says how cool the truck is to still have the original engine in it. BUT...modifying that engine, or adding things too it (like power steering, later model transmissions, etc) is expensive. At the end of the day, the truck needs to be nice to drive, and that is what is driving me to make some serious changes.

I bought a nice little 302/5.0 V8 for it. The engine was removed from a 1996 F150. I was seeking not only a factory roller block 302, but specifically a 1994-1996 5.0 from an F or E series vehicle. In case anybody doesn't know, the last few years of the 302/5.0 had the F4TE cam (H.O. firing order...or basically the 351 roller cam). So, outside of the very late 5.0's used in the 1997-1998 Explorers, the 1994-1996 F150 5.0 was probably the best of the later SBF engines.

Going to start pulling the EFI and everything off of it today...

I listed the Flathead and trans for sale and sold them both within 12 hrs locally. Funny story, but the whole transaction was filmed and will be on a TV show soon...more about that later lol. Local custom car builder shop bought it. They did have a running TV show on Discovery, but I believe they're just doing Youtube and Facebook these days.

I also bought a AODE-W transmission...or 4R70W, which was also removed from a 1996 F150, but not the same 1996 F150 that my 5.0 was removed from (that one had an E4OD).

The rear diff is going to be a 3.55 geared 8.8 from a 2001 Ford Explorer. I guess I'm going to learn how to remove existing leaf spring perches and weld new ones on in a different location. Stay tuned for more.

Anyway, that's all the local news here...

TGIF Bullnosers.

Gary Lewis

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Administrator

I like the plan. As you know, I don't leave anything stock, and especially wouldn't when stock was from the early 50's. So going with a 5.0L and a modern auto tranny seems like a good plan.

And what is the plan for the fuel system since you are pulling the EFI off?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Rembrant

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Gary Lewis wrote

And what is the plan for the fuel system since you are pulling the EFI off?

Gary,

I will be getting an Edelbrock aluminum intake, and a Summit 500CFM 4bbl carb. Basic and simple. EFI swap later, maybe...but nothing in the near future.

Gary Lewis

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Administrator

That's a pretty simple solution and should work very well.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

salans7

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

In reply to this post by Rembrant

Rembrant wrote

The rear diff is going to be a 3.55 geared 8.8 from a 2001 Ford Explorer. I guess I'm going to learn how to remove existing leaf spring perches and weld new ones on in a different location. Stay tuned for more.

Are you going with the Explorer axle because of the rear disc brakes, or just because it's what you can get?

Rembrant

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

salans7 wrote

Are you going with the Explorer axle because of the rear disc brakes, or just because it's what you can get?

Good question. I don't really care about the disc brakes. The Explorer 8.8 is a common swap for this generation truck due the overall width of the axle (it closely matches the original Dana axle). It is the strongest of the 'smaller' 8.8 diffs as the Explorers had 31 spline axles. It's basically a narrowed F150 axle.
As far as I know, the Rangers are very similar or identical dimensionally, but they have the lighter 28 spline axles?...Or at least the majority of them do.
All things considered, I'd probably prefer rear drum brakes, but when I went searching for Explorer rear diffs, the majority of the ones I found were the later 90's and early 2000's. I believe 2001 is the last year I can use. I was specifically looking for one with 3.55 gears, and the 2001 was the closest one I found.

Just to add...I haven't actually purchased it yet, but I'm planning to unless something else better pops up locally. If you have any suggestions, I'm all ears.

There are a bunch of 2004-ish Rangers at the local pick-n-pull, but of all the ones I checked, I think they had 7.5" diffs. Maybe one of them would be just fine...I don't really know. I'm new to this stuff, and general consensus on the internet was to use an Explorer diff if available.

salans7

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

The only drawback to the Explorer axle is to make sure your master cylinder and other misc parts are able to work with the discs. I'm far from an expert, and barely know what I'm referring to, but I've heard that rear discs and rear drums have different pressure values and may affect braking performance. For example, a popular swap on Rangers is to run SN99 Mustang Cobra rear disc brakes. But many people who have this swap say the brake pads wear unevenly, possibly due to the unequal pressures or whatever the difference was at the master cylinder. My 2003 Ranger has Mustang discs, and the pads wear at a taper, even though I keep the slides greased and there's nothing wrong with the caliper mounts.

There was a specific Ranger that did come with 31 spline axles, and also a Torsen LS differential. They were called "Fx4 Level II" trucks. They had drum brakes, but are possibly narrower than an Explorer axle, so if the Explorer axle is close to your original Dana, that would be the better option. I would just do some research into making sure your master cylinder is up to the task of working with the disc brakes.

The other problem with Ranger 8.8's (the 28 spline versions) is that some of them (if not all) have the same axle bearings as the 7.5. So in reality, the only difference is the carrier and ring gear. Ranger (28 spline) axles aren't exactly heavy duty, so I would keep them a little lower on your list of axles.

https://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2017/how_to_spot_a_ford_ranger_fx4_31-spline_axle.shtml

Rembrant

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

salans7 wrote

The only drawback to the Explorer axle is to make sure your master cylinder and other misc parts are able to work with the discs. I'm far from an expert, and barely know what I'm referring to, but I've heard that rear discs and rear drums have different pressure values and may affect braking performance.

I'm no expert either, but I'm planning on a complete new master cylinder setup anyway, and you can select 2 wheel discs or 4 wheel discs, so we'll see how it goes! Finger crossed.

https://www.performanceonline.com/1948-52-Ford-F1-Truck-Firewall-Mount-Power-Brake-Booster-Kit/

The truck currently has 4 wheel drums, with the original style single chamber manual master cylinder that mounts under the cab. I've read that lots of guys are still running them that way, but I don't want to. The rear discs don't mean a whole lot to me, but they'll add some curb appeal when I turn around and sell it in a few years time lol.

salans7

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Sounds like you're a step ahead then. I would definitely say the Explorer axle is the way to go.

Rembrant

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Started pulling apart the roller block 302 that I plan to use in the old '52. Man these things are a pain. Luckily, only four of the seven water pump bolts snapped off in the timing cover...lol. I was going to make a joke about "feeling blessed". Two intake manifold bolts snapped off in the left cylinder head. I was able to remove one of them later, but the one up front was corroded badly, so there wasn't much holding it on. Hopefully the machine shop can extract it and/or fix that hole.

Otherwise, the rest of it is looking pretty clean on the oil side. No serious sludge build-up or anything like that.

The engine was running...so fingers crossed it is still OK, and worth a refresh. It supposedly only has about 120k miles on it...as much as one can trust the word of a guy that strips old trucks lol. As those guys go, this guy did seem genuine.

Notice the all metal timing gear set and wide chain. I know it was 12 years prior, but my '84 302 had the nylon or plastic toothed cam sprocket and was super loose, even with the low mileage it had back then.

Kind of excited about my first roller block though. Break-in will be a non-issue, and I won't have to worry as much about what oil I use.

I bought this set of crossmembers...complete set for 302/5.0 and AOD trans, even with mounts. It was on sale for $147, and I don't think I'd waste time fabricating brackets and mounts for what these cost.

https://www.performanceonline.com/1948-64-Ford-F1-F-100-Truck-Engine-and-Transmission-Mount-kit-Ford-V-8/

I'm kind of excited to go through the process of installing all this stuff from scratch.

Gary Lewis

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Administrator

You'd think that Ford would have learned about the water pump bolts. That happens more often than not.

Sorry you are having those problems, but hope the machine shop can easily fix it.

And I think it is a smart move to buy the crossmembers.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Rembrant

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Gary Lewis wrote

You'd think that Ford would have learned about the water pump bolts. That happens more often than not.

Sorry you are having those problems, but hope the machine shop can easily fix it.

Gary, they're really not problems at all when the engine is on a stand and you're on a chair in front of it, with all the time and patience in the world...lol. However, it happens all the time, and I feel bad for the guys trying to change a $27 water pump and snap a couple of those bolts off when the engine IN the truck. UGH.

If there's one thing you can bet on with a small block, it's at least one of those bolts snapping off...lol.

The bolts don't seize in the block...they bind up with corrosion in the aluminum timing cover. I ended up destroying the cover...I didn't care because I wasn't using it anyway, but with the bolts relieved from the cover, they turned out of the block no problem.

That one that's rusted and broken off in the head though, that's a different story lol.

Oh well, time is on my side;).

Gary Lewis

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Administrator

Been there, done that. A friend brought his '91 F150 over a few years ago to change the water pump. We broke a bolt and had to drill it out. But when we put it back together we slathered them in anti-seize, not just on the threads but also on the body where it might corrode with the timing cover.

Glad you have plenty of time. You do such good work I'm sure you'll make this a very special project. I'm pulling up a chair and a cup of coffee to follow along.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

grumpin

Re: Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

Me too, on the coffee and watching! I’m excited and it’s not my engine! A roller block, sweet!

I found a truck I would like to get, a 1995 F250, 4x4 with the 351 and E4OD, 144,000 miles on it.

Saw it last night on craigslist, located in Reno Nevada. $8500

By the time I got home from my out of town stuff I had to do it was gone!

A 1995 351 should be a roller, I think.

Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold
1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD
1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E
Arizona

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