Painting Valve Covers

Hi All,

I wanted to keep this question outside my project thread (which I will update later today)...

My engine bay is coming together, I almost have all the sludge cleaned up and things looking about ~32.342 years newer than they looked a few months ago.

The last thing is the valve covers.  I don't have the means or where-with-all to pull the engine, but I'd like to paint the valve covers a fresh coat of Ford Blue.  Are there any show-stoppers with me pulling them off with the engine still mounted?  I know it's a silly question, the answer seems "no", but I wanted to double check before getting myself into a tricky situation.  

I don't really want to remove them at all, but I don't think I can paint the back of them without lots of overspray and not doing a good job.

Felpro gaskets when I reinstall them?  Anything to be aware of there?  It'll be my first time taking the covers off and reinstalling also, so any tips are appreciated.  Thanks everyone!

Nope, no issues and no gotchas to pulling them. Main thing on reinstalling is to not overtighten them and make sure the holes are flat on the covers.

Jim has me sold on Real Gaskets (Tennessee) but a bit pricey and have to wait on shipping.
Prior to them I used Felpro obtained locally and didn't have any issues.

No problem pulling them, after you strip all the old paint off Id lay the valve cover edge upside down on a flat hard surface and use the ball end of a ball peen hammer and smack the bolt holes to ding them up as they will be warped downward and wont provide good clamping force in the middle between bolts.

Thanks to you both for the replies!

I just went out to the truck to look at what I need to disconnect etc to take the covers off (dang CA emissions).  Not too bad.

I did try to loosen a few bolts on the covers - they weren't even hand tight!  Was able to turn them with index finger and thumb, zero effort. (Shakes head)   I've been looking at spark plug routing as well, and I see that the studs that stick out on a few bolts to mount the separators are there, but in the wrong locations.  They're supposed to be on the sides of the covers, the first two bolt holes, right (cyls 1&2, and 5&6)?  On mine, there is one stud on the first hold on each side (cyls 1&5), and the other stud is on the last bolt (4&8).

Just make sure the flanges are straight before you paint them.
Overtightened bolts in the past will distort the lip and they will never seal.

Fel-Pro rubber with the bolt spacers are the best way to go for tin covers.
If you decide to use cork, glue the gaskets into the covers with something like Indian Head gasket shellac.

Thanks, Jim.  

I assume the spacers are to prevent oil from escaping/oozing between the bolt and the edge of each bolt hole?

Right, these are the original tin covers

Actually, I think the spacers are so you won't bend the valve covers when you tighten the bolts down.  If your cover is straight/flat then they ensure there's even spacing all the way 'round.

The donuts are to keep you from over compressing the gasket and causing the distortion I mentioned.

The gasket itself is just a bit thicker and those spacers control how much crush it gets.

Do take note of how very little torque valve cover bolts are supposed to have.
I don't use my 1/4 torque wrench, but do use my fingers and a 1/4" ratchet.
(No need to make a fist and pull on the ratchet)

Look back at the old hot rod T-handle valve cover nuts.
Those guys had to adjust for solid lifters constantly, so they had studs in the head to locate the gasket and never needed to wrench on them to keep them sealed.

If it's any help, I painted my original 302 factory valve covers (I'm that weird guy that liked the look of them over aftermarket valve covers).

I installed a set of the Fel-Pro Perma Dry Plus valve cover gaskets, and so far they have been great...no leaks, no weeps, nothing.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-vs13264t




By the way, you'll see in my pics where the factory valve cover bolts with the studs go...on the two outer forward locations.

If your original plastic wire holders are broken and/or missing like most are, you can buy these ones below from most auto parts shops:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-40286

You can see them installed below so that you can run your plug wires neatly in the stock locations.

Rembrant wrote

If it's any help, I painted my original 302 factory valve covers (I'm that weird guy that liked the look of them over aftermarket valve covers).

I installed a set of the Fel-Pro Perma Dry Plus valve cover gaskets, and so far they have been great...no leaks, no weeps, nothing.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-vs13264t




By the way, you'll see in my pics where the factory valve cover bolts with the studs go...on the two outer forward locations.

If your original plastic wire holders are broken and/or missing like most are, you can buy these ones below from most auto parts shops:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-40286

You can see them installed below so that you can run your plug wires neatly in the stock locations.

I like the OE valve covers as well.  But I cant run them they wont work with roller rockers.

Thanks all for the replies, super valuable information here.  I want to do it right the first time.

I removed all the bolts last night easily - the valve covers wouldn't budge.  I was tired already from work so I decided I wouldn't try to muscle them off and regret it (bend them), so I'll try tomorrow instead.  I have a rubber mallet, and it seems it can take a few whacks to knock them loose.

The bolts on the drivers side had a yellowish gummy substance on them - not sure if it's gasket material or what, but I'm guessing that's not helping in my efforts...

ckuske wrote

The bolts on the drivers side had a yellowish gummy substance on them - not sure if it's gasket material or what, but I'm guessing that's not helping in my efforts...

Sounds like "gorilla snot" (aka weatherstrip adhesive) was used to cement the gasket in place, and the bolts picked it up when pushed through.

Without having it in my hands, that is my guess anyway....

Yep, gorilla snot is exactly what I thought of.  If it got on both sides of the gasket you'll have to use some force to get the covers off.  It is tenacious and stringy stuff, so it won't just break free with a couple of love taps.

Like I said above if you're going to use gasket adhesive, glue the gaskets to the cover, not the block or head.

I'm really glad I have no one but myself to blame for my truck.

That's kind of my aim - pretty soon there will be nothing left to blame others for, it's all me.  And I'm good with that!

Hmmm....  I'm almost there.  A few years ago it was all "Look what  did!"  Now the only thing left he did is the rear diff and rear brakes.  Pretty well everything else is ME.  

It is a good feeling.  Go for it!  

I got the driver's side off today, and the passenger side is loose but I need to remove some of the smog junk to get the cover out and off completely.

Here a pic of the drivers side head with the cover off - I was pretty happy with the condition of things - no sludge etc.



It sounds primitive, probably because it is.... but what I used to get them off is I have a large wrench where I used the closed side of it and put it in between the block and the cover in a few different places, and gently pried up.  The closed end of the wrench is quite large (like 2 1/2") so when prying it spreads the load out pretty well.  I used that and kept whacking with my rubber mallet as well, and it eventually came off.  Half the cork gasket is on the head, and half on the cover, not much goop afterall that I saw, but that's probably what caused the gasket to be split lengthways when I managed to pop the cover off.

Tomorrow, I'll get the other off and then prep them for paint!

Glad you got it off.  And it is good that there's no sludge.  

Thanks for the pictures, Cory! They are a big help. I'm trying to keep things stock, so I'm more than good with keeping the existing covers.  It's a shame they'll be mostly covered up with the bazillon vacuum hoses for the emissions stuff, but *I'll* know they're going to be nice and blue and not rusty, so that's what matters, right?     I did order some of those Dorman wire retainers too.  

ckuske wrote

I got the driver's side off today, and the passenger side is loose but I need to remove some of the smog junk to get the cover out and off completely.

Here a pic of the drivers side head with the cover off - I was pretty happy with the condition of things - no sludge etc.



It sounds primitive, probably because it is.... but what I used to get them off is I have a large wrench where I used the closed side of it and put it in between the block and the cover in a few different places, and gently pried up.  The closed end of the wrench is quite large (like 2 1/2") so when prying it spreads the load out pretty well.  I used that and kept whacking with my rubber mallet as well, and it eventually came off.  Half the cork gasket is on the head, and half on the cover, not much goop afterall that I saw, but that's probably what caused the gasket to be split lengthways when I managed to pop the cover off.

Tomorrow, I'll get the other off and then prep them for paint!

If you look on the intake youll see a pad close to the valve cover lip front and rear.  I use this lip to place a large screw driver and gently twist the screw driver to work the valve cover loose front to rear.  This prevents hammering on the valve cover and in lots of cases your left with the majority if not all of the gasket material stuck to the valve cover.

If you decide to use silicone to attach the gasket to the valve cover I strongly recommend Ultra Black, it is formulated for use where it will come into contact with oil.  Dont use the clear or the grey, the clear doesnt like oil and will yellow and let loose when oil hits it over time.  The grey is a high strength bond something you dont want either as it will make it a pain when it comes time to replace gaskets down the road.