Operation NP435 & Over Drive

Redline MT90 is recommended for GL1, 3 and 4 applications.

IIRC that was the reason it was recommended for the Toyota manual transmission.

I have to thank Gary & members that have helped me not only on this project but the whole project

The BW T18 drive gear DOES swap with the NP435 drive gear!
Got out to the garage about 4:30am and first pulled the good gear from the T18 as I installed this not long ago to get the speedo working with help from Gary.

I then wanted to make sure the new speedo cable was longer before pulling the old one out of the truck and it was. So I pulled the old cable with out pulling the cluster.
I was able to just pull on cable at the cluster and it came right off  Going back on was not as easy. Took about an hour and was just about to give up and pull the cluster and it popped on  More than long enough to make nice big looping bends.

Then on to pulling the trail housing and the drive gear. It made a little bigger mess than I wanted as the housing had a lot of gear oil in it. When trying to get the old gear off I was worried the good one would not fit because the snap ring was tight on the full shaft where the T18 the snap ring once pulled out of the groove came right off. Once I had both gears in hand I could see they were the same.

Going back on the snap ring fought me the whole way and the metal ball that keeps the drive gear from turning on the shaft (think key way) fell out  With the oil & oil dry  on the ground I had a hard time finding it but did.
Used a little gasket sealer on the housing side and got it back up and bolted down, mount back in place and drive shaft back on.

I also pickup a back up light switch pig tail as the one on the truck was bad and I spliced on a Weather pack plug but it did not fit tight on the trans so I have wire ties holding it in place.
I used butt connectors with shrink wrap on them to make it weather tight.
I then used 1/4" plastic wire wrap from switch to plug on frame because the factory coving was cracked and open in places.

Before getting it off jack stands I ran it thru the gears and the speedo works
It was now 9am and my lovely wife had breakfast ready for me.
I went back outto cut the OD slot a little more because when shifted into OD the stick hit the pan a little so I gave it more room. I then cleaned out the mess I made.

I have not road tested yet, got to do a trash run, but I don't see why speedo would not work.
I will report what the RPMs are at what MPHs when I get it on the road more.

Thanks again every one
Dave ----

Good morning's work! Look forward to hearing the results from your road test and new fuel efficiency numbers.

Well done!  

Glad it worked out and you probably out driving the wheels off of it.  Looking forward to the report.

Sac79 wrote

Good morning's work! Look forward to hearing the results from your road test and new fuel efficiency numbers.

Well this fill up has some miles on it without a way to track just how far I drove it so the number may have to wait LOL

Gary Lewis wrote

Well done!  

Glad it worked out and you probably out driving the wheels off of it.  Looking forward to the report.

Loaded the trash in the back and it is maybe 5 miles each way and only put it into OD on the way back just to see, 45 MPH is like 1200-1300 RPM think 55 MPH was think 1500 or a little more, both in OD.
It is getting hot so driving the truck with out AC much is not likely.
I need to have a rider to write down the MPH and RPM in & out of OD because I cant remember it all and to write when driving is not cool.
Dave ----

If only I had the real estate in the bronco for this option.  I am very jealous.  It would be high on the list of items to add, but I am afraid the rear driveshaft would be much too short at 7 inches shorter.

If you remove 7" from the rear shaft how short would it be?
Might have to lower the transfer case and turn the rear housing up a little to save Ujoints.
Same thing you have to do on lifted trucks.

I did take the truck to work one morning and it is nice to do 70+ that the traffic was doing and not have the motor turning high RPM. At about 70 MPH it was turning about 1800 RPM.
IIRC when running 55 MPH with out the over drive it was turning the same RPM.

I will get RPM / MPH both in & out of OD to compare them.
I got the rubber boots but got lazy today when I got home from work to fit them to see just how I want to go.

1 boot is a 2 for 1 deal and looks like it will work to cover both sticks and look real custom.
The other way is 2 different boots that will kind of over lap and I don't think would look that nice.
I will get pictures of the boots when I get to working on it again think this weekend.
Dave ----

You really need to keep the joint angles the same on both ends so the shaft remains in phase.

You can't just wedge the diff and think it isn't going to let loose sooner than later.

This is why a double cardan joint is used on short shafts and lifted trucks.

My bronco already has a double cardigan style.  It has been shortened once already before my ownership when the 10.25 axle was installed.  I had thought that was 1.5 inches shorter.  I would honestly have to put a tape measure on it to see what length it is at currently.  Perhaps when it comes out next week I will look.

Don't you need to have a drive shaft made for the T19 install?
Dave ----

Not that I am aware of yet...

I thought the c6, and the t19 from similar years with adapters and transfer cases had the same overall lengths.  Although I do have a hunch that it would be possible to shorten the transmission output shaft, and make a shorter transfer case adapter to gain some length back if I were to add a torque splitter.  Perhaps even with off the shelf parts from mixing and matching what brand the output shaft/adapter (jeep maybe).  I know I have seen shorter t19/adapter/transfer case options pictured before online.  I have no desire to stretch the wheelbase in the rear any to gain driveshaft length, if it means changes to the rear fuel tank since I just upgraded to a new poly tank with external vent line to allow filling at the big rig pumps.  Regardless, if/when I would add an OD splitter it would have to be done at a later date as the funding and timeline currently wouldn't allow the bronco to be apart that long.  

IDIBronco wrote

I thought the c6, and the t19 from similar years with adapters and transfer cases had the same overall lengths.

This is what I found when measuring my two gvod trucks - both behind the tcase but one was a t19, the other a c6. The driveshafts were all the same length.

kramttocs wrote

IDIBronco wrote

I thought the c6, and the t19 from similar years with adapters and transfer cases had the same overall lengths.

This is what I found when measuring my two gvod trucks - both behind the tcase but one was a t19, the other a c6. The driveshafts were all the same length.

This has always been my understanding, but when my swap gets to that point next week I will post in my thread to verify what I find out.

If you go to Advance Adaptor's site and look up the OD unit at the end of the "how to install".
One of the 4x4 mags do an install in a first gen Bronco and that would be shorter than yours right?
Sorry to say they do not tell how long the drive shaft turned out to be.

My shaft turned out to be 4' (48") center to center of joints but I also don't have a transfer case but is a short bed.
Dave ----

I believe my Bronco rear driveshaft is 26 1/2” with the E4OD.

Well I did not get the GL-4 oil so no drain and refill but the boots are in place and so is the used carpet and floor mats I was given.
 I bought 1 boot that had 2 openings and the off set I needed but when I test fitted it the opening in the pan was to large for the transmission part of the boot and the transfer shifter boot part was to large for where my OD shifter is.
 So I ended up using the large boot that I think came with the NP435 and when I bought that 2 in 1 boot I bought another that I felt would work if the 2 in 1 did not and good thing.

 The large boot had a metal ring and because the boot had to go over the bend in the pan I had to cut a lip on the ring so I could bend it.
 Got that screwed down and then worked on the OD boot. It did not come with any holes or a metal ring. So out came my hole punches to make some hole for screws.
 2 screws come in on the side of the pan to keep the boot centered on the stick. beside the 2 screws each side, only used 1 hole / screw on the transmission side no room for the other, I added holes top & bottom.
 1 for the side screws also holds down the trans boot.
 Sorry I did not get pictures of the boots before install to damn hot to stop to take them.

 I then pulled the sticks. I bent the OD back more as I had to reach to get it in and out of OD. Also with the carpet laid down I could trim it to fit around the sticks.
 I unbolted the seat, no help to pull it out and back in so I had to lift it and stuff the carpet under it. The belt bolts also had to come out along with the behind the seat storage rack, carpet goes under it.
 Got the carpet under the seat and made cuts to the carpet to fit over the trans tower and for the OD handle just so the carpet would sit right on the floor.
 Got the belts and seat bolted back down and it hit me how to get the pan & sticks back in place and get the carpet over them ????????????

 I was able to fold the carpet on to the seat, get the OD stick bolted back in place, opening in carpet will work to get it back on the floor, fish the pan back and bolted down.
 Then the fun of bolting the boots back to the pan. The trans stick had to go thru the carpet but the boot had to be on the stick and the stick fitted to the trans.
 A lot of fighting with boots screws, carpet, sticks poking me but I got the boots in place and the carpet fold back to the floor.

 The next fun was trimming the carpet to fit under the lower lip of the boots just above the screwing lip of the boots.
 For a trimming I found using sheet metal sheers worked the best. Trim a little fit, trim more till the carpet was where I wanted it and look good.
 Fit the carpet under the door sill plates, a little clean up and took for a ride.
 The carpet & mats totally change the truck. No more road noise and I can hardly hear the wine of the OD, it's like a new truck!

 
 When I can get the wife to ride with me I will have her write while I match MPH to RPM in and out of over drive.
 Dave ----

Looks really nice!  Very jealous again.

Well done, Dave!  

I know that dance of fitting the carpet, boots, etc.  No fun!  But you got it done and it looks great.  And sounds like a new truck as well.  CONGRATS!  

Thanks guys I like the way the carpet fits under the last lip so I did not have to fight long screws thru the carpet into the pan.
The carpet & mats are not perfect but for free I am not complaining at all.
And being the carpet was used it had the seat & belt holes already so just had to deal with the shifters.

The carpet came from a auto truck so the hump was not that high but I also think if it was for a stick the hump might have been to high? That was 1 reason why I made the pan low and figured I could cut the carpet to fit around the trans tower and cover it with a boot like I did.

Other than the OD boot not sitting the way I wanted I think it looks like a factory install like the other little custom things I did to the truck.
Thanks again
Dave ----

Looks great! I've only gone for a short ride, but I agree, the carpet makes a huge difference, enjoy it!