Nothing Special's '71 Bronco

Gary Lewis wrote

....  1967/77 Ford/Thompson "pencil neck" P/S pump (Most FoMoCo vehicles except 1975/77 Econolines & 1972/77 cars with Hydro-Boost).

Has a steel reservoir, P/S pressure hose threads onto the pump....
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That sounds like the one (no pun intended given the whine I'm hearing).  It definitely has a small filler neck/dipstick (~5/8" dia).  And the steel reservoir slips over the output fitting where it's held on by a nut that goes over the same threads used by the pressure hose.

Gary Lewis wrote

.... On the parking brake pedal, can you space it out and be able to get to it w/o it, or you, hitting the clutch pedal?

I haven't really looked at it that close yet, but something like that is the hope/plan.  I've also heard of people cutting the pedal arm and fabbing something up to move the pedal even more to the right.  We'll see what it looks like once I get into it.

I guess you still have the option of a Saginaw swap if you can't get the power steering to shut up.
Looks like Vans and Lincoln's of the '70's were much the same as the Bullnose era.

I wonder how different the emergency brake assembly was in 1971?
Looking at mine, I'd imagine it easier to make a new mounting point at the lip of the dash and open the angle of the flange at the firewall than to get the release handle offset.
I don't think the pedal would be the hard part.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I guess you still have the option of a Saginaw swap if you can't get the power steering to shut up.
Looks like Vans and Lincoln's of the '70's were much the same as the Bullnose era.

I thought about going that route, but decided I wanted the project to be over quicker (I'm running out of time before summer).  So hopefully I'll be able to live with whatever the noise ends up being.  But yes, there's a fall-back option.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I wonder how different the emergency brake assembly was in 1971?
Looking at mine, I'd imagine it easier to make a new mounting point at the lip of the dash and open the angle of the flange at the firewall than to get the release handle offset.
I don't think the pedal would be the hard part.

I'll definitely be shifting the mounting point out on the dash.  But from what I've read that doesn't get enough room, so making the pedal come over another inch or two is also necessary.  But again, I'm only going by what I've read at this point.  It'll get a lot more clear to me once I get a chance to look at the actual hardware.

Nothing Special wrote

I'll definitely be shifting the mounting point out on the dash....

Serves me right for spouting off before actually looking at it.  Now I'm pretty sure I won't be moving the mounting point.  In the picture below you can see that the release handle is barely accessible outside of the roll cage.  If I shift it in I have to move it far enough that it will be accessible inside the cage.  But doing that would move the point where the cable hooks up too far to the right so it wouldn't have a straight pull.  I'm thinking now that rather than do that I'll leave it where it is and just move the pedal over.

My biggest concern with that is that it will put a lot more twist into the mount when I apply the parking brake.  So I'm going to have to figure out if I think that will cause more problems than it solves.

So all I've got done so far is taking the pedal assembly out.  It has enough issues (binding up with rust, rubber bumpers falling apart that require removing and replacing rivets to replace) that I'm looking to see if I can get a new replacement.  So far I'm not finding anything.  So no real progress yet, but at least I've got started.

And it's important that I get started.  On Monday we scheduled another trip out to Moab!  So I have about 2 months to get this and the rock rail finished!

Have you thought about getting one of the hand operated ones like some cars and trucks use? Might be able to mount it beside the seat or between the roll bar and body and pull up handle to apply.

example:   https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-hd-solutions-3372/brake-systems-16456/brake-hardware-16511/emergency-parking-brake-release-handle-11194/bf06bdb20f65/dorman-hd-solutions-brake-release-handle/9245617/4242046?q=924-5617&pos=0

I'll keep that in mind as a fall-back, but I can't think of a great place for it.  Between the roll cage and body would put it in the way of getting through the door when the brake was on.  And between the seats would work well, but that's where my dog lays and there's not much room for her as it is.

It is hard to tell from a picture, but is there any way to bring the pedal out/back past the roll cage?  In your shot it looks like it would clear the cage if it was brought straight back.  If so, can it be also set up such that when released it is high but clears the door opening, and when depressed it goes down basically even with the cage?

You'd have to change the geometry of the pedal's arm, but it looks like it might be doable - from the picture.

Moab!!!!  Cool!  I'm jealous!

I guess I hadn't realized how far inboard the cage already is, Bob.

I'm sure you'll figure it out.    

Gary Lewis wrote

It is hard to tell from a picture, but is there any way to bring the pedal out/back past the roll cage?....

I'm sure I could get the pedal through the gap, but what doesn't show well is that the roll cage already encroaches on the door opening, so anything that the pedal came back would really be a knee-breaker.  I suppose I could just view that as encouragement to always apply the parking brake!  But I think I'm going to stick to the idea of moving the pedal inside of the cage

Gary Lewis wrote

Moab!!!!  Cool!  I'm jealous!

After our first trip there (in September 2019) we had planned to go back in the spring of 2020.  Well, like most people's plans for the spring of 2020, that didn't happen.  So we're taking it off "pause" now!

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I guess I hadn't realized how far inboard the cage already is, Bob....

I guess I hadn't either.  I didn't make the cage myself, I had a shop do it (a long time ago).  I'm not sure right now why it's as far inboard as it is.  It certainly made bending that bar easier (it has to be that narrow at the top so widening it at the bottom would've meant a compound bend at the bottom of the windshield).  And it might have something to do with tying it in underneath (there's a body mount very close there, which complicates things, but also adds strength).  But regardless, it's the way it is now.

And as I think about this I remember that when I picked it up after the cage was built they suggested to me that I could just carry a 2x4 with me to push the pedal through that gap!  I don't think I'm going that route!

“And as I think about this I remember that when I picked it up after the cage was built they suggested to me that I could just carry a 2x4 with me to push the pedal through that gap!  I don't think I'm going that route!”

Which is probably what I would do!

Bob, here is another option for your parking brake.  The mid 60's van I drove had one of these. Might be able to put in in center of dash to stay out of your way getting in and out of the Bronco. It is a Ford part.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c7zz-2780-a?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5Z7C0q-k7wIVicDACh08XAnSEAQYAiABEgIa5_D_BwE

Bruce - That link doesn't work.  But since that might be a really good option, can you find another link?

https://www.jegs.com/i/Scott-Drake/204/C7ZZ-2780-A/10002/-1

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c7zz-2780-a

Try these. Gary your truck is looking good.

Bruce - The Jegs link works for me, but not the Summit. Still, that will give Cory a good idea. Thanks.

And thanks on the compliment. Just figured out what I have in it, and it should look good.

I always think VW bus when I think of one of those set in the dash.
It's a novel idea that won't interfere with Bob's co-pilot.  

Nothing Special wrote

....  First up is finishing the rear drum brake conversion by getting the parking brake working.  The pedal is hidden behind the roll cage "A" pillar bar, so I'm gonna hafta get a little crafty on it.  Driver side rock slider is next after that.  I'm hoping to have both of those wrapped up around the beginning of April.

Plans had to change a bit.  I lost the last three weeks to a medical issue (not Covid, but not something I'm going to discuss on-line, I am getting back to 100% and expect to get there soon).  We have a trip with the Bronco planned in May, so at least the rock slider and possibly the parking brake are going to have to wait until after that trip.

The biggest priorities were the things that NEEDED to be done before the trip.  When I bought this Bronco in ~2002 the shock bushings seemed a bit suspect.  I don't know how old the shocks were then, but I'm doubting they've improved in the last 19 years!  And with the vibration I was getting last summer (which may have been primarily tire balance but could be shock-related) I figured it was time to replace the shocks.  I pulled the old ones off about a month ago when I was starting on the parking brake project (hence NEEDING to get them replaced before the trip!).  And today I got the new shocks installed.

The other little project today was the fuel switching valve.  Years ago I replaced the original mechanical valve with an electrical one that would be switched with the same switch that changes which tank is being read by the fuel gauge.  Then a few less years ago I replaced that valve with another electrical one (the first electrical valve stranded me by not switching when I flipped the switch, so I ran out of gas while still having a full tank).

Last summer the second electrical valve started leaking.  Not dripping on the ground, but it would pull a little from whichever tank was not selected.  So when I'd run on the 20 gallon main tank first, when I'd switch to the 9 gallon aux tank expecting it to be full it might only have about 3-4 gallons.  That got a little spooky a couple of times.

So with two electrical valves giving me issues I decided to go back to a mechanical valve.  I swapped that in today as well.  Now I need to remember to switch both the gauge and the valve when I want to change tanks.  But it should be more reliable.

I'm sorry you've had the medical problem, but glad to see you are getting back to 100%, Bob.  .
 
And I understand NEEDED instead of WANTED.  Sounds like the fuel system is needed, and I think the mechanical switch is a good upgrade.  (Regrade?  Downgrade?)  I think it is just a matter of time until the electrical ones fail, which is why I didn't want one on Big Blue.

Plus the shocks are probably needed as well since they'll keep the tires from cupping.  Plus, they are easily changed out.

So, what else is "needed"?

Gary Lewis wrote

....  So, what else is "needed"?

That's sort of it.  I still might do the parking brake.  It'll just depend on how long it seems like it's taking.  But I have some stuff taken apart that I need to put back together (and then take apart again when I do get to the parking brake).  So it'd be nice to wrap it up.  I'll poke at it a bit this week, and decide next weekend if I'm going to finish or bail out.

Then the big thing is test driving it.  It kept dying when I pulled it out of the garage to turn it around.  Hopefully that was just cold and hadn't run in a while and it will settle down once I actually drive it.  But I did rebuild the carb this winter and maybe it's not dialed in yet.

I'll also need to get the motorhome out and unwinterized.  And my younger son is moving so I'll be spending some time helping him.  So I know the time will disappear quickly!

Well, it's back on the road!  (sort of).

I did get the parking brake pedal modified so I can work it around the roll cage.  I cut part-way through the pedal arm, bent it to the right and welded it back up.  It looks pretty awful (so do the welds).  But it should work.  I still have to hook up the cables before I'll have a working parking brake.  I may or may not get to that before going to Moab (we'll have to see how everything else comes together and if I have any time for that).  But getting the pedal modified and back in meant I could put my gauge panel back together and not have to take it out again later.

Here are a few pictures of my work of art!  In the first picture it's at the top of it's travel.  In the 2nd and 3rd it's at the bottom.  It looks a little close to the clutch pedal, but I'm not bumping it at all as I work the clutch, so I thin k it'll be fine.