New Member , Just picked up a 1984 F-150 Inline 6

You have the later (1987-up) EFI dual exhaust manifolds on there FYI. They are not original to the truck.

Definitely a former Feedback carb application with all the wiring coming through the firewall. Finish that DS-II swap and you can remove a whole bunch of that other stuff and really clean up that engine bay!

Hmmm. Getting in a little over my head without a manual.

What's the easiest route to go? Getting the whole stock emissions system together and having the computer working seems like it will be a bear?

So on Static timing you use a test light like on an air cooled VW?

Can't see how it will run good without the correct advance timing. Happy to buy a new distributor if that solves an issue. And also the stock air cleaner.

The VW's have what is called an 009 Distributor that is centrifugal advance. No Vaccum. It's timed statically to get it running and then timed with a light for 30 degrees advance at 3000 rpm.

Jim, is this what the other HEI dizzy is like? Anyone have a link to one?

I think I would rather remove all of the computer system. Not sure what that entails though yet.

Reading through the air cleaner system pages now.

Thanks again!!

Yes, the third option is an HEI style distributor.
These use vacuum as well as centrifugal advance.

But (as a package: distributor, cap, rotor, coil & wires) they're the most economical solution.
They offer a tach connection.
They are easy to adjust the advance (unlike disassembling the DSII distributor)

Be mindful you need one for the 'big' 300 I-6 not the smaller car engines, and that the rotor runs reverse to all the Ford V-8 engines.
So you're aware of this when adjusting static or base timing.

To set timing with the Push Start EEC-IV system you need to disconnect the SPark OUT (spout) connector.
This removes computer control from the timing.

This also means there's no heated plenum floor on your intake manifold.

Long choke times and lots of fuel condensing out of the intake charge.

But a factory air cleaner with heated inlet air to the snorkel will go a long way towards helping cold start atomization.

David can probably find one for you.

This is so awesome. I am used to giving out lots of VW advice but not receiving so much!

Any how-to's on this conversion?

So far I am looking at:

 Buying the correct HEI Distributor package.

 Finding the stock air cleaner

The blue EGR plate can stay the way it is capped off if there are no leaks OR I can find a non-emission adapter plate.

The Truck has a dual exhaust manifold which does not seem like a prob.

Removing the computer and wiring? Is it just tearing it out once the new HEI is installed?

Sorry, so many questions. Really appreciate the responsiveness of this group!

There is a how to on DuraSpark conversion.
The main difference is that with an HEI you will use the coil power wire to trigger a relay feeding the new distributor.
There is no module, because everything is self-contained.

I never go with "Rip it all out"
Methodically dismantle, and unceremoniously slag it on the 'Free to a Good Home' marketplace thread, for those members that DO need to keep things as they were from the factory.

I think you have a good plan.  But we don't have a how-to.  However, it isn't that hard.

If you are going with the HEI then you need a relay triggered by key-on and running hefty power directly from the battery as HEI's are power hungry.  So use something like a #10 wire to provide the power.

The ECU's wiring should be easy to remove as it is separate from the main wiring.  IOW, the ECU has all its own sensors/senders and you can follow the wire from the ECU, remove the sender, and then remove the wire.

Thanks,

I think I will go with the HEI System but I will investigate the Duraspark system as well.

I will def take my time removing the computer and associated parts and wires and post on "free to a good home"

Any sources you guys use for these parts? I am on rockauto a lot. ( I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 conversion van I also work on)

I also found this site:

https://shop.broncograveyard.com/

Josh

CRT offers an all in one with tach and plug wires for $150.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232042575815

JBG has some good offerings, especially on driveline components.
I've bought an output yoke, alternator mount and many other components there.

Beautiful! Thanks. I am going to get that ordered!

I have the new front shocks and oil and oil filter.
I can get started on those.

It's wild (at least to me) that the curved tubing around the exhaust goes to the electronic choke. Pretty cool looking.

I (personally) use Rock Auto, Long Motor Corp., Amazon, National Parts Depot, Dennis Carpenter, NOS Parts Ltd. and RSG.

It would be easier to list the ones to avoid than list all the good vendors.

JG2020 wrote

It's wild (at least to me) that the curved tubing around the exhaust goes to the electronic choke. Pretty cool looking.

That is a workaround that somebody did when they tossed the original exhaust manifold and installed the later EFI system in order to get dual exhaust.

Cool.  My truck is from Mississippi and it, like me, is now in NJ too.  We should get them together.

You'll see in my new member post that I've reconnected all the original engine controls and pieces-parts on mine, but most of them were still on the truck so I had something to go on.  I've got original  dealer 1984 Ford Light Truck Engine and Engine/Emission/Electronics Diagnostics manuals if you want to take a look.  I'm in what I call Southern North Jersey.

Mark

Ha ha. Tell me where Southern North Jersey is. I grew up in Hazlet and also Toms River.
I actually just got those manuals on E-Bay and waiting for them to get here but thanks for the offer!

@jim the whole exhaust is new front to back but it just ties into one muffler.

JG2020 wrote

So far I am looking at:

 
 Finding the stock air cleaner

The blue EGR plate can stay the way it is capped off if there are no leaks OR I can find a non-emission adapter plate.

You need something like this. This is from an older 300 [same as 4.9L], but would work. This offering [not mine] even has the exhaust shroud, which now that I think of it, would no longer work since your truck has the later [improved flow!] F.I. exhaust manifolds.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Ford-F100-Air-Cleaner-Assembly-2bbl-2v-300-4-9-OEM/153963524282?hash=item23d8f0f0ba:g:at8AAOSwNZNe3Ry4

This is closer to what yours came with, originally:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/80-86-Ford-Truck-Bronco-4-9-300-6-cyl-Air-Cleaner-1980-1986-F150-F250-F350/143654251738?hash=item217275ecda:g:vtIAAOSwwpZfCSMm

This is what the EGR assembly looked like prior to being blocked off:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-4-9L-300-6-cylinder-Carburetor-EGR-Plate-Valve-1982-Spacer-ET2A-9D448-FL1/143656494103?hash=item2172982417:g:aR8AAOSwlGZfDQKt

This is the spacer that was used in liew of the EGR:

 https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Genuine-Ford-1973-74-F250-Truck-75-76-E150-300-6-cyl-Carburetor-Spacer/233405544814?epid=511340983&hash=item36580df96e:g:0wIAAOSwyDFd0OQz

https://www.rearcounter.com/E4TZ-9A589-D-parts196722.html

And now you've met our "finder", David.  He's got a gift for finding things, and a memory that let's him remember who needs what.  

Wow wow wow! Thanks David!

I think I will grab that second air cleaner for sure.

I can wait on the spacer a little bit I think since that does not seem to present an issue yet. Unless you guys tell me otherwise.

But I will def do that eventually just for the sake of cleaning up the engine compartment.

Gary Lewis wrote

I think you have a good plan.  But we don't have a how-to.  However, it isn't that hard.

You're right, Gary. It isn't too hard, but you want to make sure it is power in START and RUN only.
Not ON or ACCY.

Perhaps this is an opportune time to document it.  
As you say the ECM harness is just an overlay and is easy to remove without butchering anything else.

But showing details like where ported vacuum is on a generic aftermarket YF and where to source power to trigger the ignition relay could help others in the future.

I was in Tom's River -not a month ago- to install a big vanity at a little marina community.

To me "South Jersey" is Mount Holly, LBI, Cape May or Vineland.

We used to have a great time launching rockets down in the cranberry bogs.

JG2020 wrote

Wow wow wow! Thanks David!

I can wait on the spacer a little bit I think since that does not seem to present an issue yet. Unless you guys tell me otherwise.

But I will def do that eventually just for the sake of cleaning up the engine compartment.

You are welcome!

Those spacers come up from time to time and likely will be less expensive.