My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

Something I forgot about but need to go looking for today (or to order online) is new door striker post bushings and pins and bushings for at least one set of hinges. Has anybody done the hinge pins and bushings before, and is there a specific size I'm looking for?

My passenger door hinges are tight as a drum but the door is loose on the striker, and the driver's door is just the opposite...it has a little play in the hinge(s) and seems fairly tight on the striker. Anyway, I'm want to fix up both.

Recommendations or links on where to buy each that I can get fairly quick?

Dorman HELP! or the yellow ones...... Needa?

Both work.
On the hinge pins, use a floor jack and piece of wood to support the door.
Cut the old pin in half (middle of the hinge) with a dremel or similar.
I find it easier to insert the top hinge pin from below.
You can see the snap ring that way.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Dorman HELP! or the yellow ones...... Needa?

Both work.
On the hinge pins, use a floor jack and piece of wood to support the door.
Cut the old pin in half (middle of the hinge) with a dremel or similar.
I find it easier to insert the top hinge pin from below.
You can see the snap ring that way.

Actually, the door is coming off next week (and is going to the dump...lol) while we wait for the new door to arrive from LMC. Body shop is painting the door frame on the cab so I'll grab the hinges while they're off and tighten them up. Passenger side is OK and only needs the striker bushing.

The Dorman #is 38410 for one pin, two bushings and an e-clip.
Needa sells the kit as a pair (covers upper and lower hinges)

ArdWrknTrk wrote

The Dorman #is 38410 for one pin, two bushings and an e-clip.
Needa sells the kit as a pair (covers upper and lower hinges)

Awesome, thanks. I'll grab some of these today. So you can install new ones with the door installed on the truck no problem? Maybe I'll do them in advance.

You need to drill and hammer in the bushings.
I've never just dropped a pin in.

Bet they are pretty easy, with the caveat of balancing the door on a floor jack while you either put the pins in (best)
Or bolt the hinges back on (alignment issues)

Next time I do any pins I may just buy the whole hinge. Had to adjust the drivers door on my 86 anyway.

Of course cost will drive my decision.

I bought new uppers for both sides last time.

All I can say is that the metal springs don't last.
And I'm not too quick at adjustments.

If there was only one thing I was allowed to complain about on these trucks.....its how cheap/thin/and difficult it is to align a door and get it to shut nicely. The metal is thin and fatigues, the mirrors dont stay where you put them....blah....

I added sound deadner on the inside of my last bullnose so the door had a little more mass to shut it with, and not sound so hollow.

I picked up a set of bushings this morning. The Dorman ones that say they're for tailgates but use to stop door rattles...lol.

Anyway, I am clearly missing something here, but how exactly do you change the bushing? The washer does not come off...

Cory, read post #2 of this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1591874-85-f-150-striker-bolt-search.html

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1983-1986-Ford-Crown-Victoria-Door-Latch-Striker-Plate-E9AZ-5422008-A/372649030844?epid=16017010605&hash=item56c39cf4bc:g:tS8AAOSwl8Vco7Jf

1986F150Six wrote

Cory, read post #2 of this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1591874-85-f-150-striker-bolt-search.html

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1983-1986-Ford-Crown-Victoria-Door-Latch-Striker-Plate-E9AZ-5422008-A/372649030844?epid=16017010605&hash=item56c39cf4bc:g:tS8AAOSwl8Vco7Jf

Well, according to the OP, that striker does not fit...

Hmmm.

I can cut the washer off, I guess...but what a stupid design...lol.

The Pex tubing approach is what I’ve read works well. Apparently it is stiff enough to return to round after you slit it and pry it on.

I can attest to the fact that they do not come apart in a way that makes them reusable. Out of curiosity I tried to remove the washer on a striker bolt that was missing the bushing. The striker bolt came out of the washer, but it was completely stripped out/cross-threaded.

Just built to be replaced as a unit....
It surely lasted beyond the 10 year service life expected of most components.

Who in their right mind would try to rejuvinate a striker bolt that probably cost under $5 retail at the time?

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Who in their right mind would try to rejuvinate a striker bolt that probably cost under $5 retail at the time?

Nobody, but decades later when people want to buy the part they find out that it is NLA and has been obsolete since Nirvana was a new band.

And that's we have an aftermarket, and companies that reproduce parts from original tooling.

Rembrant wrote

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Who in their right mind would try to rejuvinate a striker bolt that probably cost under $5 retail at the time?

Nobody, but decades later when people want to buy the part they find out that it is NLA and has been obsolete since Nirvana was a new band.

https://www.amazon.com/Ford-E9AZ-5422008-A-STRIKER-DOOR-LOCKI/dp/B000O0SQY8

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1983-1986-Ford-Crown-Victoria-Door-Latch-Striker-Plate-E9AZ-5422008-A/372649030844?epid=16017010605&hash=item56c39cf4bc:g:tS8AAOSwl8Vco7Jf

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-striker-plate-e9az5422008a

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-striker-door-locking-mechanism_e9az-5422008-a.html

ArdWrknTrk wrote

And that's we have an aftermarket, and companies that reproduce parts from original tooling....

….except for the important things like tailgates.

He's not trying to bring a tailgate back from the dead.

Man, I'm frustrated with this.