Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

classic Classic list List threaded Threaded
26 messages Options
12
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

ReneH
Hi, today I've mounted the blue top gearbox.
Everything works fine, so far.

But is it normal that the pitman arm is so far away from the box? At my old box the arm was very close to the case of the box.


I also have had the problem that the spring washer has damaged my pitman arm.


Currently I only have tighten the nut only with 150 ft lbs. Haynes says about 190 to 230...I also haven't installed the spring washer by now. I have to buy a new socket for my 3/4" torque wrench.
What size do I need? Metric it's about 34mm or a bit smaller...

As it seems, my hardy disc has some play...
Which one is the right?
Type1
Type2
And how do I get it changed?

Another thing is that my front breaks still squiking with new pads...I haven't found a place for this clips and they weren't installed before...maybe that's the reason for the squiking?
René's Profile

Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6
Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

Gary Lewis
Administrator
The factory shop manual section on the power steering box is at Documentation/Suspension & Steering/Steering/Power Steering and then the Steering Gear tab.  It'll have the torque specs, usually on the last page.  And I'll bet that you've just not torqued it down enough so the pitman arm hasn't gone on the shaft far enough.

But I don't know which of those rag couplings is the right one.  In fact, you linked to the same one both times.  

As for the socket, I'll go to the shop in a bit and see if I can figure that out.

On the brakes, those are the anti-rattle springs.  You can see them in the illustration and the FSM section at Documentation/Driveline/Brakes.  They are base part number 2B164.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

ReneH
Hi Gary,

Ok...I'll check this. I also think it's not far enough. Buy I don't have had the right socket for my 3/4" torque wrench to get the needed torque to the nut.

.rockauto.com offers two types:
Link
Lares 204 and Lares 206

About the anti rattle springs: I don't know how to install them. I've seen them in the explosion drawing...but no plan how to install...I've tried it...
René's Profile

Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6
Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

Gary Lewis
Administrator
My sector box nut measures 1.295" across the flats and my 1 5/16" socket fits nicely.  But that equates to 32.89mm so a 33mm socket should fit.

On the clips, go to the page at Documentation/Driveline/Brakes and then click on the Front Brakes tab followed by the Disc Brake R&R tab.  Figure 5 has a closeup of the clips going on the brake pads.

As for the rag joint, it looks like they are the same save for the #204 having the bracket and the #206 is w/o the bracket.  For a buck more I'd get the bracket.

But, is the slop in the disk itself or the splines?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

ReneH
Ok...thanks Gary.

I'll buy a nut that I'll be able to get.

I'll look at this page and figure. Maybe it's the solution.

Yes, it seems so. The gearbox also has a slop inside. So it seems to be like commented before a combination of different sources of play inside the steering column.
René's Profile

Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6
Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

Gary Lewis
Administrator
You'll buy a socket?

But the gearbox has slop in it?  Or the steering column?  Or maybe you mean the whole steering assembly?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

ReneH
Yes, I'll do. I'll need one for my 3/4" torque wrench to get this nut fixed as specified.

My old gearbox has definitely slope inside.
But also the hardy disc seems to have.

It's only a piece of rubber...
René's Profile

Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6
Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Yes, it is a piece of rubber.  Or more specifically it appears to be the sidewall off a tire.  Can you find something locally to make one?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

ReneH
Maybe I'll get a piece of polyurethane to get better durability and stability...I've to check how I'll get it out...it seems to be riveted...
René's Profile

Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6
Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Remember that your safety relies on it not melting nor tearing.  So it has to be quite robust.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

ReneH
Hi Gary, there seems to be the problem I've feared...the disc seems to be riveted to the steering column...



But I think it's necessary to replace it:


Is there any trick to get it out?
Or do I have to pull the whole column?
René's Profile

Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6
Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

Gary Lewis
Administrator
You can take the lower column out.  There is a pinch bolt to hold it to the top column on the top and pinch bolt to hold it to the steering box on the bottom.  If I remember correctly the bolts have to come all the way out.  And the shaft collapses into itself, although usually with great difficulty, so you can make it shorter to get it out.

And you'll have to drill the rivets and replace them with bolts.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

ReneH
Hi Gary,

Ok, thanks. I've found a YouTube video showing exactly what you've described.
It's on a GMC truck, but all the same. Only the coupler has another part number. Maybe cause of the amount of splines of the gearbox.

I have ordered a spare part and will change it next week, when the part arrives.
René's Profile

Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6
Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

JimJam300
I have my column partially disassembled on my workbench as I speak, I can take any photos that you may need.
1982 Bronco restomod in progress: Built 4.9L, T19 4spd, 9" 3.00 rear w/ Eaton TrueTrac, 31" tires, fuel injection soon
https://www.youtube.com/@jimjamauto
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

AmericanSavage
When I installed my Blue Top, I used the specific size socket Gary mentioned and a ½ drive torque.  As I Torqued it, it snug up to the box right nice.

I changed my steering as well and went with Borgeson.  Mine was sloppy loose on both ends, and the rag joint was riveted on one end, with bolts to separate it, but not completely (I am going from memory here so I may have that a bit mixed up).  

Anyway, I highly rec the borgeson if you want to make it all like new. ALL that slop will disappear like Coke at an Al Pacino party.  I made a funny.  😀
1980 Ford XLT F350
400 Engine (rebuilt to 406)
Holley 2300 500 CFM manual Choke Carb
Under Restore (1st time)
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

ReneH
In reply to this post by JimJam300
Hi, thanks for this offer. I'll be happy about all help I'll get.
René's Profile

Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6
Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

ReneH
In reply to this post by AmericanSavage
Ok, Thanks for the answer. I'll be with you.
A new shaft will be the best option.

Currently, the time limits the options..
So I'll stay with my old one.
René's Profile

Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6
Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

AmericanSavage
ReneH wrote
Ok, Thanks for the answer. I'll be with you.
A new shaft will be the best option.

Currently, the time limits the options..
So I'll stay with my old one.
Couple of other things....Make sure the steering wheel stays straight as you line up the blue line on the Blue top gear...IF you truck is not aligned, this could mess up the centering.  That is, if aligned when you install, but the truck pulls right--redoing the toe WILL throw off the centering of the steering wheel.

Good Luck!  You will love that blue top.
1980 Ford XLT F350
400 Engine (rebuilt to 406)
Holley 2300 500 CFM manual Choke Carb
Under Restore (1st time)
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

ReneH
Ok, I'll already have installed the blue top last weekend. Also mentioned your tips.

It's working fine. Only "soft" component left, is the coupler...I'll get a new one beginning of next week. On the 28th we'll start in holidays, driving to Zürich and then to Genua to get the ferry to Bastia.
René's Profile

Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6
Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Gearbox, pitman arm and breaks

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Flying to Zurich in two months.  Sorry I missed you.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

12