GOOD GUY'S GARAGE

Not a bad truck, but maybe priced a bit high.  I think I got $3000 for Rusty about 18 months ago, and he had a warmed over 351M and was also 4wd.  Similar tires, and a bit better interior.  So, this truck may be a little bit high, but not too bad.  However, maybe things go for more there.  And, that's the asking price, which is where I started on Rusty too, if I remember correctly.

I need to get back to this thread. I currently have my Lincoln for sale or trade. Once I get that gone, or traded for a Bullnose....I'll get back to this Good Guys Garage. Gary, maybe I can start a "Garagemahal Kentucky Chapter."

Yes, you need to get on with the garage.  Or, maybe more correctly, telling us about it as I don't remember you telling us about the lift.  Or, did I just forget it?  

As for a Kentucky chapter, sure!  Then maybe you can get a bunch of them to come to the show(s)?

Well I sold the Lincoln this morning. Now I have some cash-o-la to get back to the garage. I'm calling around monday to et some concrete guys out here before I spend all that money on a truck. I'll dig up a photo or two of the lift.

Well here is the Impala on the lift. Its a BackYard Buddy brand lift. Very very sturdy. Yes its on gravel. I've had 6,000lbs on the lift, on gravel, and its as sturdy as concrete. Counter intuitive I know, but it works.

Congrat's on selling the Lincoln!  Perhaps the concrete won't take the whole of the cash?

As for the lift, I believe you about it being solid on gravel.  But you'll really appreciate concrete for a floor.  

Gary Lewis wrote

....you'll really appreciate concrete for a floor.  

No doubt about that.

Very nice, Ray!

1986F150Six wrote

Very nice, Ray!

Thanks. Its getting there.

I had a really nice guy come out the other day to quote me the concrete floor...

wait for it....

$8,750!!!!!!!

I just about pooped myself.

I'm looking at alternatives. Any advice guys?

I am experimenting with a wood floor. I have a Dewalt Planer, table saw, miter saw and all other sorts of wood working tools. I was doing a little research and found black locust pavers that are being used on Wall Street, and have been used in the past in New York and Europe. Wood pavers, outside....seems a little crazy....or is it? I've got tons of locust trees on my property. I've got cedars. I also have been collecting huge 8' x 6' pallets from a plumbing company down the street from work. So I got wood!

My thought is this. Compact the soil/gravel base. Add paver base or sand and compact that. Then make 2'-6" square wooden pavers out of whatever I can find. Seal the bottom side with Thompsons and a coat of plasti-dip to discourage moisture penetration. Lay them down in a 10' x 10' area and do a test. Park the truck on top of it for awhile and see if it moves.

The thing I like about this is I can basically do this for very little cost. Also, it'll be unique. It will also be easy to replace a tile if I damage it.

The impetus for this idea was my time designing automation equipment for Caterpillar assembly lines. They have a facility that is 15+ acres in area. The entire production floor is 2x4's stacked vertically 18" thick. When a chassis, heavy tool or something comes crashing down, it doesn't destroy a concrete floor. Instead, they get out a lag screw, and a slide hammer. They bite into the end of the 2x4 and slide hammer the damaged 2x4 out, and in with a new one.

I'll do a lot less damage than they do, so I can get away with a 3.5" thick wood paver. 2'-6" square I think would spread a load out onto the base soil very well.

The most weight I will have on one tire is 1187.5 lbs. (my truck is 4750lbs) So that is 900 square inches per paver. Which is only 1.32lbs per square inch. I have a lift, so jacking with a floor jack will be rare. Even if I point load a floor jack.....call it 2400 lbs on the jack....= 2.64lbs per square inch.

There will be a 1/16" gap between the pavers, filled with polymeric paver sand. This will provide the locking effect that a typical clay paver road has.

I am thinking a clear stain/ dark stain checker board pattern would be cool....

So, something like this, but a larger paver for better load bearing ability.

Here is a little test I setup in the corner of the barn with some 2x4's and some sand. I had a tamper, so I tamped the heck out of the gravel, then layed some sand in and tamped that. It was pretty amazinf at how solid this was. And the ground was a little moist. So I will have to figure out a moisture barrier.

The final paver will be many long pieces of wood glued together and clamped in a jig, kind of resembling a bowling alley lane.  

Neat! Certainly different and "outside the box"!

It would look good.  But when calculating loads don't forget the concentrated load that a jack stand will give.  That'll probably put dents in the wood, but not destroy it.

And, you may want to seal things well because you'll have oil, water, brake fluid, etc on it.

As for a vapor barrier, why not put down the plastic they us under concrete for that?

Gary Lewis wrote

It would look good.  But when calculating loads don't forget the concentrated load that a jack stand will give.  That'll probably put dents in the wood, but not destroy it.

And, you may want to seal things well because you'll have oil, water, brake fluid, etc on it.

As for a vapor barrier, why not put down the plastic they us under concrete for that?

I have thought about the point load, and fully expected your comment on that point...pun intended.
Solution is to have a wood/steel base that the jack stand sit into, and a piece of plywood that I rest the jack in.

As far as the vapor barrier goes, I did think about the plastic. But...the way pavers work, the layer of sand they rest on gets compressed and grips the pavers preventing horizontal movement. Also, the sand works in between the pavers and locks them together preventing rotational movement. If I put them on top of plastic, I am afraid they would slip around. I am going to have to rely on good drainage around the perimeter of the barn. I may need to dig a small trench and install a water barrier 12-18" down and tuck it up under the bottom of steel panels.

Whatever I do, I need to make sure the walls can breathe once I finish the interior walls too. Moisture buildup will cause rot and rust the panels.  

I have pieces of 3/8" ply that I use under jack stands.  They work well to protect the floor.

And, I take your point about the vapor barrier.  A French drain around the building might be a big help.

Gary Lewis wrote

I have pieces of 3/8" ply that I use under jack stands.  They work well to protect the floor.

And, I take your point about the vapor barrier.  A French drain around the building might be a big help.

I have installed a 60' long french drain along the front side. But the other three sides are just graded. Another thought I had was to just add 4' deep landscaping with black plastic buried 6" down or just above the subsoil in the garage.

Well guys....my 99 Silverado is giving me the fits. Go figure, as soon as I sell my good daily driver and try to rely on the truck, the transmission starts acting up. I mean...its only got 342,000 miles. Its brand new!

It gave me a P01870 code which is the TCC. I pulled the valve body after I ordered the TCC valve that is supposed to fix the issue. Turns out, when we had the trans rebuilt the first time, we also had the TCC valve upgraded. So, not exactly sure what is going on yet, but i'll figure it out.

I have to put the floor on hold for now. I need to get a back-up truck guys....I really should go get me a back-up truck.....

If you are looking for concurrence, YES you need a backup truck!