Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum › Projects

Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

Classic

List

Threaded

523 messages Options

1 ... 2324252627

Ferdinand

Re: Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

-And I would LOVE not to have to mess with a tender. I don't mind one so much on my bike, but Ferdinand has to set outside all year long at a place I have no real power other than stretching a cord, and I am not a big fan of leaving a cord in the yard all that time.

Jamie Helmick
'85 Bronco 351W HO, C6, 4X4, Full rebuild @ 51k original miles (fire), Edelbrock air gap intake & 600 cfm carb. w/elec. choke. 4" RC lift w/35's. Check the Projects Page if you're interested.

Machspeed

Re: Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

Administrator

Spent the better part of the morning and several cups of coffee reading through this entire build. Wow, so many road blocks and setbacks. Intrigued me, as we essentially have the same engine and drivetrain and some of your issues were also my issues, all of which I have resolved through the kindly help and wisdom of members here! Awesome shout out for Gary and the website, btw!

Jamie, thanks for posting your build up, you’ve done great things with it. As I read through the coolant leak, I was thinking how irritated I would have been trying to find that. And then there’s the firing order, carb and charging issues, one hurdle after another. I admire your perseverance. Those types of things I call “character builders”. From what I garnished in the the build threads, I suspect this will not be new to you, but I'm leaving it for you anyway. Romans 5:2-5

Regards,

John

John

"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner

Gary Lewis

Re: Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

Administrator

Glad the website helps.

And what came to my mind was James 1:2-4. Very much a parallel.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

Ferdinand

Re: Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

In reply to this post by Ferdinand

HANDS DOWN, one of the greatest strengths of this site is God-fearing people. Thank you gentlemen.

One of my favorites in the same scope: Luke 21:19 "In your patience possess ye your souls."

Ferdinand

Re: Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

In reply to this post by Machspeed

John, I am humbled you took time to read of my shenanigans. You are very kind. I am all self-taught and that leads to many re-do's along the way. I am anxious to read about your rig as well. Between getting versed in Big Blue's journey and now yours, I know what I'll be spending my late night hours on until the end of the year!

Ferdinand

Re: Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

In reply to this post by Ferdinand

This is another "a-typical" solution, but if you have a bin of Sharkbite brand PEX crimp fittings, they come in handy as an alternative to barbed fittings for the heater core hoses. (These are 3/4" brass) I am curious to see how they work. I am considering closing the gap between the valves with a close nipple, or using a street 90, to enable me to use the valve handles at full length (pic below). Anyone is welcome to weigh in on their thoughts or opinions. Even if you don't like it and think its a terrible idea, I am a big boy and can take the criticism. I learned a long time ago truth comes in many forms 😉

Ferdinand

Re: Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk

Jim, that LRC alternator you link to in your comment about it, can you order one with the double V-groove fully, or do I have to swap the one from my old alternator? Thank you sir.

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

Administrator

In reply to this post by Ferdinand

Why two valves and not just a valve and a Tee?
I mean if you divert the flow from the heater core to the bypass it's not as if it is going it back up the hose and somehow get the core hot.

I read what you said about changing the heater core without draining down the system...
But you're going to get a slug of air no matter what.
I just tuck the hoses from the firewall through the hood hinge.
They are up, out of the way and can't siphon the system.

No, you can't buy a replacement 3G with a V-belt pulley.
They were introduced in the '90's and all 130A applications used a polygroove belt.

You CAN get "retrofit" 3G's with a V-belt installed, but they are all $$$ and none of the ones I've seen come with an LRC regulator.

The pulley is incredibly easy to swap.
As mentioned, you probably need a 17mm shim.
Usually a thin 5/8 washer fits just fine. (Stainless tends to be thinner than plated steel in the hardware aisle)

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Ferdinand

Re: Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

Excellent info and suggestions Jim.

I wasn't sure if tee-ing into both hoses and valving off the one side would allow for good flow back to the engine. Those T-port 3-way valves impressed me and I thought they would give me any configuration of flow I needed (even though a few flow routes would be completely useless in this application.

The two tees and one valve would be way less bulky for sure! 🤔 Thanks for the alternative!

I will dig out my old alternator and take a look at what it takes to get that thing off. (The PO had just put it on before I bought it in Dec. 2017. I'll have to go and re-read the 3G info from the upgrades pages again as well.

Gary Lewis

Re: Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

Administrator

I'm running just a shut off valve on Big Blue. No tee. The bypass hose handles circulating the coolant before the 'stat opens. The only engine you shouldn't do that on is the 300 six as it doesn't have a bypass.

To remove the nut on the alternator I use an impact and hold the pulley with a gloved hand. Pops the nut loose quickly and, so far, hasn't hurt.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Ferdinand

Re: Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

In reply to this post by Ferdinand

Well I am amazed at how many things jump in front of my intentions of working on Ferdinand...

Will be revisiting all the good advice shortly. I did get the heater core installed and am ready to re-plumb the heater core hoses as recommended.

I have run into another snag...

Anyone have any suggestions on how to tell whether or not an "no start" problem is either in the key switch or in the ignition harness under the dash?

I have the column torn down a bit and was thinking it was my key switch but before I go any further down this rabbit hole (I had to do this with my '82 F150 when it was stolen and the column and key switch was destroyed) as I remember it being full of tricky pieces, I wanted to pic the very-able brains of our brotherhood and see if anyone had any advice on trouble shooting the wiring and connectors under the dash.

After metering out battery voltage when I turn the key from the run to start position my start wire (Red and Light Blue) that goes on the S terminal on the fender mounted solenoid only reads about .7 volts. Isn't that supposed to be 12 volts to pull the contact in? I am curious because when I jump 12 volts to that post (directly from the battery) the engine will crank just fine.

Any help is ALWAYS appreciated!!! (Even if it takes me a month or better to get to it!)

...And Gary, I am thoroughly enjoying "creeping" on Big Blue's Transformation!!

Gary Lewis

Re: Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

Administrator

Jamie - I prefer to think of it as "reading the mail" rather than "creeping".

Anyway, yes you should be seeing battery voltage on the red/light blue wire at the starter relay when the key is turned to Start. What I did was to put a light on that wire and to ground and turned the key to Start - obviously with the wire off the relay. And then I started moving wires around, hoping to find the light to change since from time to time it wouldn't start. I never found a problem, but it was apparently the infamous tilt-wheel problem.

So, do you have a tilt wheel?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Ferdinand

Re: Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

ugh...

Yes, I have a tilt wheel. I am almost afraid to ask 😉

Gary Lewis

Re: Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

Administrator

Check out Documentation/Interior/Steering Columns. There's a discussion there about the problem and links to how to fix it.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Ferdinand

Re: Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

Excellent! Thanks Gary!!

Gary Lewis

Re: Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

Administrator

Welcome. Maybe be an easier fix that finding an electrical problem.

And, by the way, the piece breaks because people hoist themselves into the truck via the steering wheel. Which is one reason I went with a non-tilt column on Big Blue. He's tall enough I want to be able to use the steering wheel as my hand hold, and am sure whomever drives it will want to do the same.

Some say the repair piece is better and won't break in future, but I wasn't willing to give it a chance.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Ferdinand

Re: Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

This post was updated on .

In reply to this post by Ferdinand

Well I tore down into the column a litter further yesterday to try and determine if that tilt column issue was it. (Thanks for the tip Gary!) I had searched the site pretty good (or so I thought) but really appreciate the direction for more research. So the process when a little like this:

Nothing seems too out of place or broken yet, but I know that piece in question is buried down in the column. So, from what I understand, it doesn't allow this linkage to operate the ignition switch properly. I turn the key here and everything looks to be working properly: So, I pull the switch and try to meter out the starting circuit. (Which from my very uneducated case is the top row tab closest to the firewall.

Since I had no continuity on this tab once I cycled the switch into what I think is the "start" position, I headed to Advance Auto to test one as a comparison. They did not have one there for me to test but I should have one by this afternoon. I plan to compare the operation of the two before I buy the switch. But, all things considered, I am thinking it is not in the column. Is that correct? I will tear into it further later tonight but hoping the switch does the trick!!! Since I hit a bit of a stop last night in my trouble shooting I decided to go ahead and re-plumb the heater core in a much simpler way than originally planned.

I am really itching to get this thing on the road for the rest of winter and will work on finer details once the weather breaks. The wife is getting tired of her car setting outside with all this snow and the Bronco tucked inside the nice heated garage and we can't drive it!

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

Administrator

You really need to test the neutral safety switch (or the clutch safety)

Up under the pedal box you'll find a red/lt blue and a lt blue/red wire in a plug.
You can jumper this plug with a spare fuse and try the starter.
This bypasses the safety switch, so be sure you're in neutral before hitting the key.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

Administrator

Also, you should always try to start in neutral if you can't get it to crank in park.
Those contacts don't often see current running through them so they're often in better shape.

If the truck starts in park the NSS on the side of a C6 is really simple to swap out.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Gary Lewis

Re: Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...

Administrator

In reply to this post by Ferdinand

Jamie - To embed a Youtube you have to get the "embed" code by clicking Share and then Embed. Copy that code and then come here and tick the "Message is in HTML Format" box. Here's your Youtube:

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

1 ... 2324252627