Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

Well today has not been a good day for me.  I've ordered a water pump which should be here in a few days. Thought I'd get a head start on things and remove the existing water pump. In the process broke a tab on my fan shroud and even worse, a water pump bolt which of course remains in the block. With the exception of the broken bolt, I've removed all but one as it feels like it could snap too. I was afraid of this when I started. I've drilled out and tapped bolts before but you've got to be right on the mark when you do that. Hopefully I can put some heat to the existing stud after the pump is removed and remove the left over with some vice grips.....arghhhh

As to the broken tab on my radiator shroud, can I get a recommendation for some glue that will hold?

Unfortunately broken bolts in Ford water pumps is all too common.  And I've had to drill some out as well.  but hopefully you can get to that one with the pump off then heat it and cool it several times.  I like to get it as hot as I can and then cool it with PB Blaster or some other penetrating oil.  My thinking is that the thermal shock helps to break the bond the rust has and then the oil can creep in.

On the tab, I think Jim will have a recommendation as he's into chemistry and adhesives.  If not, I have some in the shop and can get the name of it tomorrow.

Those are the most common bolts to brake off as they also go through the aluiminum casting( timing cover).
There is going to be alot a lot of white powder in there with the bolts, a chemical reaction between the aluminum and the steel bolts. I have seen them so bad that the timing cover had to be broken off to get them out, I hope not. Get a large can of PB blaster and start spraying it into the holes and take a punch with a hammer, put the punch in the hole and smack the bolt to set up a vibration after you have sprayed the bolts. keep doing that to get the cover off without damage. When you put it back together, put plenty of never seize on the bolts so you wont have this fight all over again.

 As for the fan shroud, there is a Ford part on the bottom left corner. There is a compainy out of Colorado that makes them and will ship them to you for under $150.00. I was rather impressed with the one that I got from them and it also has the Ford part number and was an extact fit.

Good luck on the broken bolt.

I think I would look into a plastic welding kit and weld it back up.
I have used https://www.plastex.net/on other plastics but think it will also work on this too.
Dave ----

Gary Lewis wrote

On the tab, I think Jim will have a recommendation as he's into chemistry and adhesives.  If not, I have some in the shop and can get the name of it tomorrow.

Gary,  I use an epoxy called G-flex by West Systems.
It's available as a viscous liquid or something between a paste and a gel.
I'd also probably cut a couple of fiberglas patches to overlap some of the surrounding shroud.

Wipe it down with alcohol, scuff the bonding surfaces with fairly coarse sandpaper, like 80, wipe it again and pass a flame quickly over the surface shortly before trying to bond it.

This removes contaminants and then oxidizes the surface.
These shrouds are made of an impact resistant plastic, but that means they have very little active surface chemistry to bond to.

Wet the plastic out with epoxy.
Set the fiberglas patch on the wet surface.
Using a little tin throwaway flux brush, dab at the fiberglass until it becomes transparent.
Lay another patch on top with the weave at 45* to the first dab that one on, adding a little more epoxy if needed.

They have an example video showing them cutting a polyethylene canoe in half, gluing it back together and jumping up and down in it while floating in water.

As for the broken bolt(s) you're going to have to get the pump off some way before dealing with it.

I'm a fan of burning the aluminum oxide out with acid then welding a nut to the broken shank.
This gives you something to put a wrench on and you can't ask for more heat that molten steel (fusion)
Drilling and easyouts have never worked well for me.
And if you need up with a super hard easy-out snapped off in your block that will REALLY ruin your day!  

I always use Loctite PST (Pipe Sealant with Teflon)
This completely seals the threads and the Teflon adds a bit of lubrication.
Remember, if there's nowhere for oxygen or electrolyte to be corrosion can't start.

Somewhere I have pictures of the bolts from the last time I changed my timing case gasket.
They all came out pretty easy.

Thanks for the above info, gentlemen! Seems lately I take one step forward and two steps back. Ole Blackie is miffed at me for all those years of neglect.  

As I need to replace at least one of the broken bolts, any recommendation on bolts? Probably just replace them all. Not feeling too keen on putting local hardware grade 8 bolts in there.

I've used stainless bolts going back, now.
Exhaust manifolds too.

It's nice to have a head for the wrench to fit, a few years down the road!  

Though the chrome in stainless is more cathodic than steel there's not pitting for corrosion to get a bite on, and the bolts come right out.

Totally Stainless has packages for many engines, so maybe yours?

Alright fellas, I said my prayers today and I do mean I prayed. With some heat, PB Blaster, and some hammering, I worked the bolt out moving it back and forth. I think the heat was the big factor. So, I have a  single bolt I need to remove as shown in the picture below, I'm thinking this bolt may not go into the block but it's hard to tell. Can anyone confirm that for me?

My other big decision is, do I want to remove the timing chain cover? I put heat up and down the cover in the removal of that bolt and I likely fried the gasket in that area. Thoughts?

Prayer works!  Glad it did in your case.  

But, I think all of those bolts go into the block, as shown below.  And if I was that far into it I'd sure want to replace the gasket behind the cover.  And, while there, check out the timing chain.

Oh, that definitely goes through into the water jacket.

I would weld a nut onto it and remove it that way.

Put sealant on all bolts (not just the ones that see coolant)

Do you have a water pump backing plate?

If you change the gasket be sure you don't booger up the convolute weep passage.

If the timing case faces are pitted you can fill with JB Weld and file it flat when hard.

Yeah, decided to go ahead and pull the cover. Taking a break from the harmonic balancer bolt which is kicking my rear. Not to mention it's dang hot out there. To confirm, CCW to release, correct?

Been putting the heat to that broken stud. Gonna try a stud puller before I pull out the welder, Dave. Thx, buddy!

And Gary, how did I know you'd say to consider replacing that timing chain....lol! Indeed have thought about that. If the gear is not nylon I'm keeping with it. Truck has 100k on it. When I'm done with the other project, gonna rebuild the motor.

Yes, CCW to remove the crank bolt.

As for the timing chain, the factory shop manual says a max of 1/2" slop in the chain.

Last, we are under and excessive heat warning, I guess you know?  

Rained all night, humidity is BAD right now here in the northeast.
I'm not from Houston, Mississippi or Louisiana.  And glad for that!

It has rained the last three mornings and then it gets up into the high 90's in the afternoon.  And right now it feels like a sauna outside.  The humidity is awful!  And I need to mow.  

Kentucky ain't much better, and I'm in the Ohio Valley about a mile from the river. Talk about humidity!

Grass loves this!
And yet, people choose to have lawns but no pasture animals.

The bamboo here is visibly taller than the beginning of the week.
And that's a comparison from 25-30'
I know how tall the canes were on the 4th because I cut some down and had to figure the overhang on my 18' 6" truck.

It was miserable in my shop today and I had a fan blowing. I was soak and wet from sweat.....actually got a little nauseous and three in the towel on doing anything. I had hoped to get that last bolt out, harmonic balancer off and yard mowed. Struck out on all three. Welded a nut to that stud after a failed attempt with a stud removal tool. Didn't get very good penetration as the nut just game right off. Suspect I didn't prep the stud very well. I'll retry that tomorrow afternoon.  

What is the best way to keep the engine from rotating while removing the crank bolt? Was hoping not to remove the starter.

I would use an impact wrench.

I have a IR air impact and have had good luck with this electric from Harbor Freight, horrid fate for Jim!

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-amp-corded-12-in-impact-wrench-61173.html