Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

classic Classic list List threaded Threaded
42 messages Options
123
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
John, watch your electrolytes.
Sometimes sweating pulls so much salt out of your body that your brain and nerves can't function.

Couple of weeks back I was building docks.
Monday a drank 7 liters of water but was still shutting down.
I'm adding Drip Drop to my regime and don't get the tingles any more.

Impact is easiest, but you can bolt an angle iron across the balancer that's long enough on one end to catch the frame.
Or lash the breaker bar to the frame and use the starter to break it free.
(Pull the coil wire first!)
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

Machspeed
Administrator
Yeah, I suspect you're right Jim. I was soak and wet from just the sweat. Was getting to the point that I wasn't even thinking right. Still fill a little sickly today.

I have a pretty heavy impact Gun, will give it a shot but need to keep the motor from turning. I had thought I had it secured with a Cresent wrench to the balancer and the long handle off my floor jack, however the Cresent wrench would not hold as the force I was applying to the crank bolt was opening up the jaws and causing it to slip. I'll look into bolting something to the balancer.

THx!!!  
John

"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Only supposed to be 89 here in 'Took today.  Maybe today's the day.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

Machspeed
Administrator
Come on Gary, you don't work on the Lord's day.....lol! But, I guess all that depends on what one calls "work", right? And then there's that old testament law for which does not apply today. Wait, I'm breaking rules.....no politics or religion

Yeah.... this afternoon, provided I feel better, I'm going to get back after that stuck bolt and harmonic balancer. This was suppose to be an intake manifold gasket change that morphed into an near engine rebuild. I'm the type that see's something and can't leave it alone. It neve ends! Everything I have pulled off this truck has gotten cleaned, media blasted, painted or replaced. Was thinking yesterday while I have all this stuff off the engine with easy access, should change out the fuel pump and oil sending unit. I got to put the brakes on somewhere!
John

"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Right on both counts - no longer under the OT and that's religion, which we don't discuss.

And I fully understand your problem on where to stop.  I am afflicted with the same malady.  I refuse to put greasy parts back on, so at the very least things get cleaned.  Some get blasted and either painted or powder coated, but others go back dry w/o blasting much less painted or PC'd.  And I have no good "rule of thumb" for which get what treatment.  

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

Machspeed
Administrator
Curious, know you do some powder coating. Are you pleased with it? I looked into that sometime back but it's messy and the startup cost did not warrant my project needs. Looked at having it done locally by a guy but frankly, the guy seemed a little condescending and would not warranty his work, at least not to my satisfaction. He had lots of concerns about me putting things back together and chipping of the coating, which I would not tolerate. Also, he was expensive. As such, I went looking for an alternative which believe I have found......SPI Epoxy Primer. I paint everything with this. Brake fluid won't harm it, it is UV protected, sticks to everything, won't chip, incredible stuff. I've spoken to several people whom had powdered coated their parts and have said that if they knew about SPI Epoxy prior to powder coating they would have sprayed it with epoxy. Below is the nine inch housing going in my Mustang. Just FYI, btw! I've been real needy lately and just trying to give back....lol!

John

"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

Gary Lewis
Administrator
I'm reasonably pleased with my powder coating results.  My powder is resistant to brake fluid but is not resistant to brake cleaner as it'll soften it if not take it right off.  So it isn't as durable as an epoxy.

However, there is an epoxy primer powder that I've used a bit, and it is durable.  But you have to put your top coat on it and the base/epoxy coat does a decent job of insulating the part so that it is hard to get the top coat to adhere electrostatically.  The trick there is to pull the part out of the oven after the epoxy has melted but before it is fully cured and shoot the part with the top coat.  Given the heat the top coat adheres well, but then you could easily build up way too much powder if you aren't careful.  And, you have to work quickly, so it isn't good for large parts.

I think your SPI epoxy primer sounds like a good solution for when you want black, like for suspension components.  And especially for springs since they shouldn't be put in an oven at 400 degrees, so you can't do powder.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

old55pete
In reply to this post by Machspeed
I would like some more info on that epoxy paint. After I finish some things on my bronco, I am going to start on my 62 F100. In between, I am going to build a shop at home as I am so tired of working in the dirt and rocks.
Steve
86 Bronco, XLT, 5.0 EFI, EEC IV, AOD, IFS, limited slip front and rear, 3.08 gears, Tilt steering, factory AC
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

Machspeed
Administrator
Gladly Steve! I tell everyone about this product, as I have such faith and confidence in it. Moreover, the owner of the company is one of the finest individuals you'll ever deal with. I could list many examples for you. Below is the link. As there is no jobber in my area, I purchase directly from them. Also, check out the forum there, lots of quality people post in there, much like we do here. I go by Machspeed there. If you have any questions, feel free to field them my way, think I owe you a few....lol!

https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

Now, I'm going back out in the shop to remove a harmonic balancer and broken water pump bolt. Wish me luck. I shall return this evening with hopeful news!!!  
 
John

"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

old55pete
Good luck John!!!!! I was out working on my A/C untill it hit 105 on the porch. Decided I would come in and enjoy the A/C in the house till it cools down some.

By the way, you owe me nothing. That is what we are here for. I do, however have to say thank you for the info and the link to the epoxy paint site. I am going to look into that here in a bit.
Steve
86 Bronco, XLT, 5.0 EFI, EEC IV, AOD, IFS, limited slip front and rear, 3.08 gears, Tilt steering, factory AC
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

Machspeed
Administrator
In reply to this post by Machspeed
Alright gentlemen, yesterday was a good day! Per Jim's instructions, and I don't know why I didn't think of this before as I have done it, but used a breaker bar butted up to the gear box and bumped the engine to loosen the bolt. Took about ten minutes to loosen the bolt and remove the harmonic balancer. Thank you, Jim!

Two things regarding harmonic balancer, the first being that there seems to be some kind of seal in there.....see photo. I've not seen this before. The other is that I have a couple of very fine shallow groves in the polished shaft of the balancer.....see photo. They are shallow but I have reservations about leaving it. Seems there may be some kind of fix for this though. Confirmation and thoughts please?
 

Welded a nut on the broken stud and it broke right off even with the cover.....arghhhh! This was concerning to me, as we all thought that the broken bolt went into the block. I removed the remaining cover bolts and easily pried the cover off. The bolt is broken off in the cover, which will be an easy fix for me now that it is off the engine.



Gary, think I'm going to go ahead and replace the timing chain. Not sure how they determine the looseness of the chain but I have a lot of slack in it on one side.

And lastly, even got the yard mowed and trimmed!!! That's a good day fellas!!!  
John

"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Congrat's, John!  Well done!  

On the damper, they make a "redi-sleeve" that presses over the seal area and covers the grooves.  They work well.

As for the seal inside, I think that is actually RTV on the washer.  If I remember correctly the FSM (Documentation/Engines/Windsor) says to add RTV to the damper and the washer as you install them, but you should read up on that for yourself.

As for the grass, I mowed ours yesterday also.  So now I'm enjoying the rain!

Edit: The FSM has you turn the engine one way to tighten the chain, and then back the other way to put all of the slack on the side towards the fuel pump.  You measure from where it was taut to where it is when slack.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

Machspeed
Administrator
So Gary, regarding the redi-sleeve, if I go with it do I need a different seal for the timing chain cover.....one to allow for the increased diameter of the shaft?

And yes, it is raining heavy out there today! Perfect for a recent grass cut. My yard is loving it!
John

"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
No.
The stock seal easily fits over.

But ALWAYS lube the seal before sliding the cover into place.
You don't want it to start dry.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

Gary Lewis
Administrator
In reply to this post by Machspeed
Yep, Jim is correct.  Stock size seal and lube.  But make sure you use the adhesive that is with the redi-sleeve as not only does it ensure it doesn't come off, it seals it so oil doesn't find its way under the seal.

Many parts stores have them in stock.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

Machspeed
Administrator
Yesterday ordered me up a roller timing chain and gears, new fuel pump, oil sending unit, and the timing cover gasket set that included the sleeve for the harmonic balancer. I also ordered up a new water pump. I should have all this by weeks end with a hopeful install this weekend.

Thus far I've replaced the intake manifold gaskets, power steering pump, rebuilt the carb and distributor, new plugs, wires, distributor rotor and cap, new belts, and all the hoses. That's what I can remember, probably more. This was NOT in my plans at all! But, despite all the road blocks I've encountered, I have derived much satisfaction out of it. You gentlemen, have been a part of that and as such I appreciate your help and encouragement.
John

"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
Do you realize that any 1998-1997 EFI timing set is all steel, double roller?
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

Machspeed
Administrator
Didn't know that, Jim. I ordered a Cloyes street performance double roller from Rock Auto. Really was not that expensive.  
John

"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

Gary Lewis
Administrator
In reply to this post by Machspeed
Looks like you are going to have solved a number of problems with all of this.  

Happy to help.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

Machspeed
Administrator
Gary Lewis wrote
Looks like you are going to have solved a number of problems with all of this.  

Happy to help.

Yes, I think so. I still amazes me this ole truck did not quit on me with all that I have found wrong. He's been a good ole truck, another reason I can't say goodbye to it. I'm gonna post him up in the build thread soon, I think.
John

"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner
123