Day 1 with my 1Honey

I appreciate the extra effort.
That's happened to me countless times, and it is frustrating.

Was this the same basic engine that Ford put in the T-bird Turbo Coupe?

I really liked the slightly older German Capris with the V-6 but when I bought my '85 Mustang GT in '86 I couldn't understand why Ford pulled a GM and sold the same exact body in the Mercury line.
Mine was not dialed nearly as tight as yours.
It was sloppy at the rear and only really pushed under acceleration as the front got light.
The kid I sold it to put a very strong 351 in it and almost killed himself wrapping it around a tree. (more money than sense 😒)

Sounds like you had quite a bit of help from your fellow service members.
A shop on base has got to help a lot too!

Bill (85LebaronT2) will  regale you with the whole Omni/Horizon saga.
If you're into turbo K cars his project thread is worth subscribing.
Shelby definitely knew how to make cars go like hell on a shoestring budget.

I'll have to look into what Dr Jacobs had to say.
Thanks!  👍

Good morning all. ☕️ ☕️

 I'm a planning kinda guy so in my plans for this truck, I'll definitely be pulling a car trailer with various things on it from zero turns to other cars in our stable.

  This brings me to brake upgrades if necessary. I haven't taken a wheel off yet so I don't yet know exactly how this truck is equipped or the condition of what is there.

Likely in the next few weeks these things will be getting underway, so I thought I'd drop a few questions here.

   Any ideas or experiences with making these trucks stop better ?

Trailer has brakes, so I'll be adding a brake controller for sure.

☕️

Does your F-100 have power brakes?
What lug pattern do you have?

Power brakes and the truck 5x5-1/2 pattern.
 

Okay, so there's no easy gain there.

One of our members (Chad) has created a big brakes upgrade, but it's not cheap and I think you have to change to minimum 17" rims to clear the calipers.

Appreciated. That's exactly what I needed to know.

Others may have more input beyond premium high Mu pads and slotted/drilled rotors.

I really know more about the heavier (over 8,600# gvw) trucks than I do about 100/150/Bronco's.

this is exactly why I picked up an 81 f250. expecting to be able to pull f100s and other hot rods. i do still need to add the brake controller though.

I'll be looking at spindles and rotor/calipers on other trucks and the mountain of info here for sure to get some knowledge, but it'll take something impressive for me to change what is already there.

As it appears, these 2wd light duty trucks could be had with some kind of towing package.

You'd think with the capability of the 300-6, the claw hammer C6 and 9 inch rear with 3.50 gears, and rolling on the truck lug pattern... it'd be fine for some light towing.
    We're about to find out.

getting it moving is the easy part. control and braking are where it starts to get you in trouble. I have been pushed around a few times by a surprisingly small or an oddly loaded trailer and it can happen very easily. I get picky about how I load a trailer. and my double axle has trailer brakes and I have moved a few cars and trucks without using the trailer brakes but it is on my list.

Agreed.
My trailer has brakes that work well because I have experienced that same thing before.
 Not looking to get hurt.
Just want to get home for dinner.

Looking to add a tach to my dash instruments.
Any of you fine Ford people have one to sell me?
When I take this dash out in the spring, I'd like to have everything I need.  For what I'm doing with this truck, I'd rather the stock appearance in lieu of aftermarket stuff everywhere. That irritates me.. my age is showing I guess. 🤣☕️☕️



Sideways pictures irritate me too...

To be really plug 'n play you want the flex circuit behind the cluster as well.

If you're not afraid of a little wiring you can make something up that connects to the green tach wire coming from the coil.
Six cylinder and 8 cylinder ground differently to be able to use one tach part number for the different number of sparks per revolution.

I'm pretty familiar and not concerned with wiring. I'd definitely want to buy a stock tach with a printed circuit to go with it and I could wire into the plug.
 

The big plug has the wire already in it.
There is no difference in cab harnesses.

If you get the flex everything goes right in.

Just remember about the ground screw.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

The big plug has the wire already in it.
There is no difference in cab harnesses.

If you get the flex everything goes right in.

Just remember about the ground screw.

Jim is it possible that some clusters already have the right flex?  I don't remember that I had to modify the cluster in order to add a tach in Big Brother.

I don't think that a non-tach cluster would come with a tach flex, but the tach wire is definitely to the plug.

I certainly haven't seen everything, but I also recall telling you that your truck definitely had a clutch switch  and you know what you ultimately discovered about Big Brother....

Maybe Gary has the documentation or Mryl remembers from his decades at the part counter.
I am only familiar with what I've seen, not an authority or guru.

I'm not an authority either.  But I have seen a cluster w/o a tach having the right printed circuit for a tach.  So anything is possible.

However, if I were to buy a tach I'd get one with the right printed circuit or buy a whole cluster.

That may be what I have to do.
 We shall see.

the best option is certainly to get an entire cluster with a tach. the tach delete clusters do not have the portion about of the ribbon sheet on the back and the ribbon for the tach flexes up and onto the raised area where the tach mounts. they are certainly getting harder to find though. I too prefer the stock look to the add on aftermarket but ii would still use an aftermarket one in many cases. it's very simple to install your original speedo if you want to as its only cable driven.