Carburetor feedback needed

Of the four listed, I managed to find one of the E2TE-DDA on ebay (as is).  I didn't investigate it too much but it does have a very similar configuration to the rebuilt one I have now.  It does have some kind of throttle dashpot/solenoid, which my current one does not have.

I also searched a few carb companies but no-one has any of these exact models (so far).

I did find one for sale that is for a 79 Ford 400 with A/T and electric choke.

I'm going to hit the junk yard tomorrow but I don't expect to have much luck.  They have very few fords from this time period.

The configuration is similar for a lot of the 2150s, more important for you is the venturii size marking.

Good evening everyone!

I would like to give you all a quick update on my carburetor situation.  I did not find any vacuum leaks.  I decided the original (to me) carb had a bad throttle shaft which was the most likely culprit of the sticky throttle.  I did not feel like the electric choke was working properly.  None of the adjustments I made seemed to help the warm up cycle and idle issues or the acceleration hesitation.  Additionally, the original specs called for a 1.21 venturi and the rebuilt carb on the truck had 1.08 venturi.

I checked a few carburetor rebuilders online and found some promising options but I could not find one specifically mentioned in the paperwork Gary provided.  I did find one of those on ebay.  Based on what the seller told me, and the images, I felt like that was my best option.  It was the correct part number, was in relatively good looking condition, and appeared to have never been touched.  This is an E2TE-DDA.  It was also a good price.

I purchased a rebuild kit, new choke, brass float, choke kickoff, and main jets from Mike's Carburetors.  They were very helpful with my questions as well.  The kit and parts were all correct and feel like good quality parts.  

So I rebuilt the carburetor  As best I can tell, the only work that has potentially been done to this new-to-me carb is an accelerator pump change.  That is based on the fact that the pump housing had one odd screw and three matching.  Other than that, the unit had very little if any wear marks on the housing or screws.  I matched all of the settings it came with (fuel mixture, choke, idle adjustments, etc.)  The only setting I didn't keep was the choke pull off adjustment -- I stuck with the new unit's factory setting.

I installed it this afternoon and problems solved.  I had the fuel bowl a bit high and had some fuel bleed issues that caused the engine to not crank when hot.  I corrected that and adjusted the warm idle a tad.  It runs really nice.  Cranks at a pretty low idle and warms up pretty well.  No hesitation when driving.  Idle's pretty smooth.

I am not done with it but its driveable now.  I just want to say thank you to everyone that has offered advice and helped answer my questions.  I also want to thank everyone that has contributed documentation to the site, because I used a lot of it!

Congratulatons!!!  Glad it worked.  

Glad you got it sorted. They really are an easy carburetor to rebuild.

Bill, all I carry for factory replacement at work is Tomco carbs, and I can tell you another thing that is concerning about them: the listed compatibility. They will list the same carb for a very wide range of engine sizes, and I'm pretty sure the factory calibration was different for each, even if the same carb was used.

You just named the reason I will never buy a Tomco anything. Their kits were junk, super soft gaskets, and a needle and seat that rarely worked.

I also know what I used to sell to J.N.Grillo, a core supplier out of New York. Carburetors slapped together  with mis-matched parts just to get a core value. The best one of all, Vince came down one time and was looking for the Holley 4 barrels Chrysler used, he was willing to pay top dollar for them. I went to all the MOPAR dealers in my area and gave the service managers $1 a hole ($4 each carb) for them. When Vince came back I had 4 55 gal barrels full of them, he dumped one and counted, multiplied the count by 4 and then I think he was paying $15 each for them, he was peeling $100 and even a couple of $500 bills off his roll.

Next time he came down he looked at me and said "You got me good on those" bottom dropped out on those.

Bad thing is, it's hard to find anything that hasn't been rebuilt at least once. Even if you do, it's probably locked up from years of sitting.

Very true. This is why I always rebuild mine rather than buy a rebuilt. The better rebuilds used to come with bushed shaft bores and new shafts.

I have an update on the harmonic balancer.  I have had the replacement sitting in a box for for about a month now.  I decided to wait and replace it while I was doing the power steering pump, gearbox, and lower steering shaft.  I figured the more room would make things easier (and it has so far).

There were a few comments about what appears to be RTV or some kind of sealant around timing chain cover.  Not only is it visible, I have noticed that some of it has separated and is just dangling there.  This is external, but I am curious if this is something I should be worried about?

Second, when I removed the balancer bolt and washer, I found sealant around the washer and also on the bolt itself.  There may have also been some around the front main seal.  Does anyone know if this would be a factory application or, again, if it would be something to worry about?

I am still deciding on checking the timing chain.  I am leaning toward removing the fuel pump because 1) I have spare gaskets and 2) I have a lot of room to do it.

I'm also going to replace the front main seal while I'm at it.

I don't think that the factory would have used that much RTV, but it won't be hurting anything.

And I like the plan to do everything at once because that'll give you more room.  

Time to check the chain was before you pulled the balancer so you could set it to TDC and then turn the balencer each direction a little so the dist. just started to move and you could then see just how much play was in the chain by deg.

How many miles on the chain now?

Also sealer on the bolt & washer I think is to stop oil from working its way out.
Dave ----

The shop manual mentions applying polyethylene grease (or equivalent) to both the backside of the seal during install and the backside of the balancer during install.  The Internet has led me to 1) arguments over what that is and 2) a possible equivalent being engine assembly lube.  Assembly lube seems to vary quite a bit so I'm not sure what to use just yet.

I would like to get the seal out and replaced without removing anything else from the engine.  The shop manual mentions a couple of tools to do that, T70P-6B070-A and T70P-6B070-B.  I haven't found equivalent rental options.  I found the tool to push the new seal on and its accessible.  I've known a lot of people to just tear the old seal out and hammer the new one one with a 2x4 or piece of pipe but I'd rather not go that route.

I did line everything up at TDC before removing the balancer to check my timing marks again and see if they had changed since previously adjusting the timing.  Things did move a bit but not much.

The engine has 139k miles on it.  I don't know if the chain has been replaced or not.  Everything I have removed so far appears to be original but I can't guarantee that.

Gary previously mentioned two options for checking the timing chain -- removing the fuel pump or removing the distributor.  My intention is to go the fuel pump route since my steering is currently removed.

dirtymac wrote

The shop manual mentions applying polyethylene grease (or equivalent) to both the backside of the seal during install and the backside of the balancer during install.  The Internet has led me to 1) arguments over what that is and 2) a possible equivalent being engine assembly lube.  Assembly lube seems to vary quite a bit so I'm not sure what to use just yet.

I would like to get the seal out and replaced without removing anything else from the engine.  The shop manual mentions a couple of tools to do that, T70P-6B070-A and T70P-6B070-B.  I haven't found equivalent rental options.  I found the tool to push the new seal on and its accessible.  I've known a lot of people to just tear the old seal out and hammer the new one one with a 2x4 or piece of pipe but I'd rather not go that route.

I think the big thing on the grease is to make sure the seal lip has lube so when the motor is first started and before oil gets to it, remember it should have a oil slinger to keep oil from the seal, it dose not run dry and hurt it.
I think I used wheel bearing grease on my 300 six seal as I had it handy. The assy. lube I had was for a the WC T5 transmission I rebuilt and was more to hold needle bearing in place till the shaft was installed so did not think it would "lube" too good.

I dont see what the issue is with using pipe to drive in the seal?
Put a cap on the hammer end to get a even hit to drive it in and you are good in my book.

When under the shady tree you use shady tools
Dave ----

Oh just remembered the seal removal.

Drill 2 holes one on each side that you can screw in sheet metal screws.
Screw in the screws and use vice grips to pull the seal out.
You can use a 2nd pair of grips to put on the first set and hammer on it to pull the first set of grips and screw out with the seal.

I think I used a large screw driver to pry it out. As long as you dont hurt the sealing surface you are good.
I do use a little liquid sealer on the outside of the seal and housing.

Because I had my cover off, bad gasket at top, I was able to remove and install the seal on the bench on my 300 six.
Dave ----

Would I be drilling the holes entirely through the seal?  Wouldn't that end up pushing shavings into the cavity/oil pan?

Mute point.  I found a seal puller and popped it right out.

I have another update in the ongoing here-and-there work on the harmonic balancer.

After removing the balancer and trying to clean all of the rtv out of the bolt threads, I noticed about half of the first thread has sheered off.  I took a bunch of pictures during the removal and installation of the new balancer and determined it flaked off during the removal.  I don't know why but it has.

Does anyone think this could be an issue?  Obviously, there are lots of additional threads left to bolt into.  I am including a couple of pictures.

I'm also curious about using thread locker on the main bolt.  The shop manual mentions the torque amount, 70-90ft/lbs, but nothing about thread locker.

Not sure how the last (first?)half thread could have cracked out unless the bolt threads stretched.
Were you using an impact to put it on the last time?

An interesting possibility for sealant, halfway between thread locker and RTV, is Loctite PST.
I use this anaerobic thread sealant for many things like thermostat and water pump bolts.

It comes it a couple of formulas and is indicated for use on stainless flange bolts in petroleum refineries, so it lubricates and protects against galling before it sets.
It can certainly handle the fluids and temperatures found in an engine.