81 F100 flare side custom with 300 six & T18

Happy New Year, Dave!  Hope the "work" today goes well.

I assume you are going to put a heavier spring where the light one is to slow the centrifugal advance down.  Right?

Remember that the heavy spring, which should have a long loop on one end, doesn't come into play until the peg hits the end of the loop.  So until that point it is all down to the light spring.  Then it is both of them.

IIRC, you have pinging going on pretty quickly RPM wise, which means you are getting too much advance at low RPM.  And you are getting all of it by 1500, so I'd move that up to at least 1700 - if not more.

And then test with the vacuum disconnected.  You want to kill the pinging caused by the centrifugal advance before you move on to the vacuum advance.

It was a long day!
The Javelin did not want to start, out of gas.
Ever try and put gas in a tank that the fill is below the rear bumper behind the plate out of a gas can with out spilling half on the ground?

By the time I got it running, the tires blown up and moved to the house garage the trash dump was open. We were over full with trash because they were closed last week for the holiday so did the weekly trash run.

I wanted to do the timing cover gasket to fix the oil leak as it was getting pretty bad.
The balancer gave me a hard time coming off.
First had to figure out what puller would work, then what thread size fit the holes.
I was hopping not to open the cooling system but the puller threaded part would not clear the radiator.
I first just pulled the radiator up and put 4x4 blocks under it but I could not get the wrench to budge the balancer so in preping for the air tool I had to remove the radiator. I was then able to get a good push on the wrench,it was a fight all the way off.

The old gasket was vary hard so no wonder it leaked.
Got it all cleaned up, new seal in the cover, gasket glued to the cover and Right Stuff at the oil pan as I did not want to rip the rubber gasket out and then try to install the new one.

Everything installed and running. I did not check for oil leaks just yet.
When it first started I had a tick like a lifter and I never had that before.
Oil was down a little but not to the point of lifter noise.
I added ATF as a cleaner and let it run some to get it up to temp.
As it was running the tick was less & less so hope its gone.
I will change the oil in the morning and if I have time some other things before I do a quick de-grease of the motor & under side before I wash the truck for a show at 12pm.

If it is raining and the show canceled I will do the oil change and maybe the de-greasing but will look into the  recurving of the Dist.
Dave ----

That does sound like a looooong day.  But, you got it done.  

It is raining here, and it is 36F and headed to 12F tonight, so rain and cold are headed your way.  But maybe not before the show.  Good luck!

FuzzFace2 wrote

Ever try and put gas in a tank that the fill is below the rear bumper behind the plate out of a gas can with out spilling half on the ground?

I pumped gas at a Texaco back in highschool, and I remember really disliking having to fill up the old 70's cars with the filler behind the rear plate. Clicking the hands free on the pump in these cars and leaving them unattended was pretty dangerous lol.

Had a timing re-curve party that was a flop
Can read all about it here
https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/It-s-all-in-the-timing-td109581.html
Dave ----

Been busy with work and now we have a ice storm and cant get the car out of my garage and the truck in for this last spring swap.
Even if I was to swap it out in the house garage I cant go for a road test as the roads are all ice and they don't have anyway to put salt down or salt for that matter. Yep they shut the state down till it melts LOL

I had a leak on the rear filler hose when I would fill up that 2nd clamp on the rear filler hose fixed the leak as all $81 dollars went into the tanks on the fill up.
Dave ----

Wow!  You must have had quite a storm to shut the state down.  

But at least you fixed the leak, and $81 isn't bad to fix it.  

Gary Lewis wrote

Wow!  You must have had quite a storm to shut the state down.  

But at least you fixed the leak, and $81 isn't bad to fix it.  

Part of the state did get hit pretty good but around here, Raleigh, we dont have the equipment, sand / salt spreaders or the supplies, sand & salt.

We get about a 1/4" of ice with rain on to of it and only got up to 40*f and going to drop to high 20's tonight .
When worked called I told them there was still ice on everything and getting colder and did not see where it would be safe to drive come morning.

An hour later a email was sent out to drivers that no trucks out of Apex, 45 mins from me where my truck is parked, is to leave heading north & west before 7am.
I did not see a lot of traffic pass my house today and I live on a pretty main road so that had to say something of the roads.
Dave ----

Right, you folks don't have the equipment for that.  When we lived in Chicago they proved they know how to deal with it.  I was impressed.

Glad you didn't have to go out in the middle of it.

Well I have hit a few shows and cars & coffee this year so far.
Have something going on just about every weekend now till think June!

Being its getting warmer and the AC stopped working AGAIN I had to clean the dye off where I think the leak is. Cleaned that Friday evening and hosed the truck off and dried for a show Saturday.
Pollen is killer this time of year is a loosing battle to keep the cars & trucks clean.
No did not get anything this time but was good just to hang out with other club members and people at the show.

A while back I ordered new rear Ebrake cables as the ones I installed did not fit right and the brake did not really hold. Before this last set I ordered a set also and checking part numbers found they were for a van IIRC, this set are the right ones.

So today I figured it was time to get them in the truck.
My son helped pull 1 side apart while he & I tried watching a 3 year old (grandson) son had issues to get it back together so I had to do it and the whole other side.
When he went to hit the service brakes to center the shoes so I could adjust them the pedal went to the floor? Even after adjusting the drums it went to the floor. When he went to check fluid level he said as soon as he undid the wire cap hold down fluid came out?

So we did the 2 man brake bleed on the rear only, pedal still going to the floor?
When bleeding the pressure looked good coming out the rear bleeders but when I moved it in the yard only the fronts would lock on grass?
Son & grandson went in so I used a shop air powered vacuum bleeder on the fronts wheels and that also did not help? And yes I did pull the pin out on the valve before bleeding.

I am at a loss why this happened. The pedal was not great but did not go to the floor like it dose now.
I popped the master off the booster and checked the push rod measurement and it was a little short so I adjusted it with no change of the pedal, still to the floor.

The booster & master were new to me (rebuilt? I dont remember now) as I replaced them little over 2 years ago when I got the truck on the road. But it feels like half the master is not working. Like you loose a brake line and the pedal goes to the floor but it will stop just not good.
On the cement drive I can not lock up any of the tires.

On line the parts store shows a new master, not a remanf., in stock for about $60 so think going to give that a try.

Oh the Ebrake cables fit as I had to remove a part I used to shorten the front cable.
I have a lot more threads for adjusting down the road and it feels like it holds better but I did not really test it after the no brake pedal thing.

I also adjusted the clutch as it was grabbing a little to close off the floor for my liking.

2 steps forward 1 back I guess is not to bad and I did nothing on the AC
Dave ----

If you had the hood open at the show the pollen should quickly point out where the AC is leaking.

Glad you have nice weather for a change, ☀️ and some time to get out with your truck on the weekends Dave!

The local parts store had a new master in stock sent the son to pick it up and a bottle of fluid for stock as I have one I will use for the change out.
I have to get brakes back on the truck by next weekend as my car club has a member ship drive at a members store front just up the road.

I forgot I backed off the vacuum advance 1 more turn today.
Yesterday on the way home from the show I was getting pinging.
I have not taken the truck for a drive as I did the cables and then the master went south.
Dave ----

ArdWrknTrk wrote

If you had the hood open at the show the pollen should quickly point out where the AC is leaking.

Glad you have nice weather for a change, ☀️ and some time to get out with your truck on the weekends Dave!

The pollen is so bad you cant tell as it covers EVERYTHING!
I have never seen it so bad as down here.

When driving down the road you think someone is burning leaves / brush because of the smoke.
Then when you get to the smoke there is no smoke or even a smell of smoke!
Down the road a little more you see the same thing and think what is going on????
It took me a little bit to figure out it was pollen blowing across the road in the air.
Yes it is that bad!

When home we keep the garage door up as we use the door in the garage to get into the house.
Everything in the garage is covered in pollen. It is so thick on the floor you can sweep it. Pulling in & out leaves tire marks in it.

So thinking the pollen would show where the leak is just dose not work like you think it would.
Beside the dye had sprayed all over so it had to be cleaned.

As for the weather they say we only have maybe 3 months of winter. Cars & Coffee runs year round only rain, snow / ice and really cold will stop it. Because I do LP gas when its cold I cant make weekend shows so I am making up for it now LOL
Dave ----

You can tell. The pollen gets wet where the PAG leaks out.

Did you set the rear drum adjusters?

Rubber brake hose blown out, leaking, or collapsed?  There are 3?  one to each front wheel and one to the rear axle from frame?  

Wheel cylinders?  

Gsmblue wrote

Did you set the rear drum adjusters?

Yes with no change that is why I then bleed the system.
It also will not pump up like it would if it had air in the system but I dont see how that could of happened as I had been driving the truck for 2+ years.

From the time I installed the booster / master it never felt right but it stopped.
I want to say the booster / master were remanf. from Auto Zone IIRC

rcarlisle wrote

Rubber brake hose blown out, leaking, or collapsed?  There are 3?  one to each front wheel and one to the rear axle from frame?  

Wheel cylinders?

All 3 hoses were replaced as part of the brake system rebuild.
The wheel cylinders are new & caliper are think remanf. again as part of the brake system rebuild.

The wheel cyl. are the 2nd set on the truck. I had the brake system working so I could move the truck in & out of the garage for cleaning and I found fluid leaking out of the right rear drum.
When I pulled the drum I found the new cyl. a name brand, leaking so I replaced both of them a 2nd time again with a different name brand.

Being the pedal dose not pump up after I been using the truck for 2+ years it has to be the master.
Wednesday I have a CDL eye test late morning so I am going to tryand get the master changed out before then, fingers crossed.
Dave --

New master is in but .....

I could not find my bleeder tubes kit and the new master said it came with a bleeder kit 2 plugs.
You filled it up let some drip out to "lube the pistons" then install the plugs.
You then stroked the piston till it got hard?

Well could not get any fluid to leak out so with no plugs I stroked the piston till I got fluid out of both ports and no bubbles in the bowls. Installed the plugs till I got the master bolted to the booster and was ready to get the lines bolted up.

Well the pedal test was not great as it went to the floor again but it did pump up that it did not do before.
I have a doctor CDL eye test and if I can see after I will get my pressure bleeder hooked up and see what that does as that was the only way I was able to get a pedal before.

I have never had so much problems with getting a good pedal than with this truck
Dave ----

We have brakes!

I went in early to work so I could work on the truck when I got home took a little nap and hit the garage.

I have to have music and when I hook my phone to the speakers and set it on the shelf what did I put the phone on???
Yep the master bleeder tubes. Being the master was already installed I did not use them.

On the way home I hit the hardware store for a valve & barbed fittings to hopefully fix my home made pressure bleeder from making a mess when I removed the cap. Installed version 1.2 put air to it and the cap is spitting fluid out all over the inner fender soaking the rag I had down.
Used 3 clamps to hold the cap on but it still dripped but was able to bleed the brakes.

I got a lot of air out the right rear and a little out of the left rear, nothing out the fronts. I also pushed clean fluid through even that what came out was only 2 years old looked a little dark. It has a great pedal just moving it in the yard as I had other work that needed to be done and a storm was on its way.

I put a small can of 134a with sealer in the AC system as the compressor was kicking on & off, sign of low on charge.
It is still low but it is staying on and I can now check with my black light where it may be leaking from (I hope) and fix it once and for all!

Last thing was to my 02 Durango.
It has the SS covered lug nuts that some of the cover came off and the dealer would not pull the wheel to check brakes or rotate tires because of them.
They also wanted $300 to change them all out to the same type that when they use the impac guns on pops the covers off.
I picked up 24 of SS lug nuts (non-cover type) and with help from my son got them all swapped out before the storm hit.
Dave ----

Congrat's!!!  

But now you know one of the main reasons I went with a later model master - the ability to screw on a cap that won't leak when I pressurize the system to bleed it.  Works a treat.  And, the plastic cap doesn't dribble like the metal one does.  Plus you can see if you need more fluid.  And it doesn't rust.  

Anyway, I'm glad you found your bleeder tubes. But more importantly, that you now have brakes, and good ones no less.