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81 F-250 Update

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todd121

81 F-250 Update

Hey Yall just checking back in, I have finally gotten started on my 81. didn't take any pictures today but I have been fighting rusted/ seized bed bolts. I got through one completely before I burned up my old angle grinder. the first bolt also didn't fall all the way through so I am going to have to work on that the next time I work on it. I don't have access to a welder but does anyone have suggestions on how to tackle this more efficiently? (this is my first big car project to any advice is appreciated.

"The Black Truck" 81 Ford F-250 HD 4x4 Long Bed, 300 IL6, Borg Warner T-18 4spd, Dana 60 limited slip rear, Dana 44 up front. Factory AC.

todd121

Re: 81 F-250 Update

"The Black Truck" 81 Ford F-250 HD 4x4 Long Bed, 300 IL6, Borg Warner T-18 4spd, Dana 60 limited slip rear, Dana 44 up front. Factory AC.

taskswap

Re: 81 F-250 Update

Well that sure is like looking in a mirror. Aside from the cargo tie-downs that's basically my exact truck. Do you know what month it was manufactured? Wondering if you still have slide locks like I do.

I've got nothing helpful to add on the bolts, though. I've had luck with drilling bolts out using carbide drill bits, it takes some time (cutting fluid helps) but if you center-punch your bolt heads accurately and step up from small (1/8"0) to large sizes it only really takes 20 minutes per head or so. That works for replacing riveted parts too like ball joints on control arms on some cars. Hopefully one of the gurus here has a better tip...

--
1981 F-250 Custom. 6.6L V8, 4 barrel Holley carb, ARA aftermarket A/C.

todd121

Re: 81 F-250 Update

The doors are replacements but the cuts for the slide locks are still there. Its a Canadian built truck Door code is dated at 01/81

"The Black Truck" 81 Ford F-250 HD 4x4 Long Bed, 300 IL6, Borg Warner T-18 4spd, Dana 60 limited slip rear, Dana 44 up front. Factory AC.

Gary Lewis

Re: 81 F-250 Update

Administrator

In reply to this post by taskswap

I agree that w/o a welder that drilling the heads of the bolts out is the best. Some have used a nut splitter but I don't have one of those. Others have said they've had success with getting vise grips on the heads but I wasn't successful doing that either.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

todd121

Re: 81 F-250 Update

Ah I didn't even know a nut splitter was a thing, im going to pick one up after work hopefully I can get most of them off with that, I know space it a little tight on the frame so I may still have to grind those once I get a new cut off wheel.

"The Black Truck" 81 Ford F-250 HD 4x4 Long Bed, 300 IL6, Borg Warner T-18 4spd, Dana 60 limited slip rear, Dana 44 up front. Factory AC.

todd121

Re: 81 F-250 Update

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

So I got the nut splitter, I think it's going to work but I didn't have a ton of time to work on it when I got home tonight. I got the head to pull through where I cut off the head with the angle grinder yesterday but they were still to big to pull through the frame, What im thinking is if I can't get them all to bust I can get all of the bolts to pull through to give a little more room on the bottom side to get in there with a grinder/ saws all. I also considered pulling all of the bolts through then jacking up the bed a little bit to hit the nuts in-between the frame rails and the bottom of the bed as to not worry about the clearance issues of the sas all/angle grinder. Thoughts?

"The Black Truck" 81 Ford F-250 HD 4x4 Long Bed, 300 IL6, Borg Warner T-18 4spd, Dana 60 limited slip rear, Dana 44 up front. Factory AC.

Gary Lewis

Re: 81 F-250 Update

Administrator

If I understand what you are saying correctly then getting the heads to pull through the bed so you can lift the bed up a bit might give you room to use a sawzall. The bed isn't really very heavy and you should be able to lift one end and have someone put spacers between it and the frame.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

todd121

Re: 81 F-250 Update

I was thinking about that, Yes basically put space between the bed and the frame, Just something where I can get in and get a better angle on the bolt itself to cut it off.

"The Black Truck" 81 Ford F-250 HD 4x4 Long Bed, 300 IL6, Borg Warner T-18 4spd, Dana 60 limited slip rear, Dana 44 up front. Factory AC.

todd121

Re: 81 F-250 Update

In reply to this post by todd121

Well after way too many hours with a cutoff wheel I got the bed free today at about 7. didn't get a chance to get the bed off but should have it off this weekend to start cleaning up the frame and prep it for the rust converter.

"The Black Truck" 81 Ford F-250 HD 4x4 Long Bed, 300 IL6, Borg Warner T-18 4spd, Dana 60 limited slip rear, Dana 44 up front. Factory AC.

Gary Lewis

Re: 81 F-250 Update

Administrator

Yippee!!!

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

todd121

Re: 81 F-250 Update

In reply to this post by todd121

Today's update, second picture my girlfriend took Saturday, it's the best picture I have of the truck in the barn. Today I had to get the cutoff wheel back out because the bumper was so bent and the bolts were so seized they just spun but I got it off. hoping to get the passenger silde fender out from under the door next so I can access the passenger side.

"The Black Truck" 81 Ford F-250 HD 4x4 Long Bed, 300 IL6, Borg Warner T-18 4spd, Dana 60 limited slip rear, Dana 44 up front. Factory AC.

todd121

Re: 81 F-250 Update

In reply to this post by todd121

Finally feel like I'm making headway with the truck, The bed is off so now to start dealing with the surface rust on the frame. Everything looks really solid and not a ton of pitting on the frame rails. Hoping to get the pressure washer our and degrease to see how much is Georgia clay and how much is surface rust. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

"The Black Truck" 81 Ford F-250 HD 4x4 Long Bed, 300 IL6, Borg Warner T-18 4spd, Dana 60 limited slip rear, Dana 44 up front. Factory AC.

Gary Lewis

Re: 81 F-250 Update

Administrator

A lot of guys on here recommend Ospho to neutralize the rust before painting. You can read the instructions here, but it is pretty simple.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

AmericanSavage

Re: 81 F-250 Update

Gary Lewis wrote

A lot of guys on here recommend Ospho to neutralize the rust before painting. You can read the instructions here, but it is pretty simple.

And make sure to NEUTRALIZE the Ospho, depending on paint that needs be done.

1980 Ford XLT F350
400 Engine (rebuilt to 406)
Holley 2300 500 CFM manual Choke Carb
Under Restore (1st time)

ArdWrknTrk

Re: 81 F-250 Update

Administrator

You don't need to 'neutralize' the Ospho if you dilute it as recommended.
Just thoroughly rinse it off

I tend to buy Kleen-Strip Concrete and Metal Prep from Home Depot (it's cheap and readily available)
Same blue/green solution for $18 a gallon, and you dilute 3:1 for painting.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

AmericanSavage

Re: 81 F-250 Update

ArdWrknTrk wrote

You don't need to 'neutralize' the Ospho if you dilute it as recommended.
Just thoroughly rinse it off

I tend to buy Kleen-Strip Concrete and Metal Prep from Home Depot (it's cheap and readily available)
Same blue/green solution for $18 a gallon, and you dilute 3:1 for painting.

Some paint brands will not work with Ospho unless it is neutralized—those brands will clearly state it in their instruction sheets. The local autobody paint shop will be aware of which ones need it. MINE I bought did not need it…but Ospho left a gummy black on the body panels, and so I elected to neutralize it anyway to get rid of the sticky goo. That goo can cause the paint to bubble. There are many threads on this noted on the web.

If you look at the OSPHO instructions Gary shared, you will see that Ospho recommends some sort of cleaning after whether that is by mineral spirits or soapy water—that is essentially neutralizing.

How for the frame and powder coating, or some other paint restore for that, there may be no neutralization needed. For body paint, I would absolutely neutralize, espcially if Ospho does not turn to a white powder, and instead leave a black gooey residue.

1980 Ford XLT F350
400 Engine (rebuilt to 406)
Holley 2300 500 CFM manual Choke Carb
Under Restore (1st time)

todd121

Re: 81 F-250 Update

Thanks for the info, I picked up some Ospho this week to try out on the frame, It did turn black and gooey so im going to clean it as much as possible, However haven't ordered my Chasis saver paint yet. On an unrelated note, does anyone know if a steering stabilizer was standard on the dana 44hds? I just noticed it had one while ive been removing the front end over the last few days. will have some more updated pictures once I get this last pesky core support bolt out tonight after work.

"The Black Truck" 81 Ford F-250 HD 4x4 Long Bed, 300 IL6, Borg Warner T-18 4spd, Dana 60 limited slip rear, Dana 44 up front. Factory AC.

FuzzFace2

Re: 81 F-250 Update

todd121 wrote

Thanks for the info, I picked up some Ospho this week to try out on the frame, It did turn black and gooey so im going to clean it as much as possible, However haven't ordered my Chasis saver paint yet. On an unrelated note, does anyone know if a steering stabilizer was standard on the dana 44hds? I just noticed it had one while ive been removing the front end over the last few days. will have some more updated pictures once I get this last pesky core support bolt out tonight after work.

How long did you leave the Ospho on the frame?
I sprayed mine with un-cut Ospho, let it sit a day or 2 and also had the few areas it was gooey.
I used a garden hose and sprayed the whole frame down.
Let it sit a day or 2 to dry then used shop air to blow dry it before using TSC black paint with hardner in a spray gun to paint it and suspension parts that were off and ready for paint.
Other parts I used a brush and no hardner.
4 years and it is holding pretty good and I have used de-greaser and power washer a few time now too.

I also used Ospho on the roof the same way, 100% spray on,let sit a day or 2 but I used a water bucket and rag to wipe it down before body work.

Cant help on the steering part sorry.
Dave ----

Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100

ArdWrknTrk

Re: 81 F-250 Update

Administrator

In reply to this post by todd121

Best to scour off any goo.
I've never encountered this with Ospho or Kleen-Strip but have with SEM's Rust Mort.

None of these trucks came with a steering damper and I haven't ever seen it offered as an option in any of the documentation I've read.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.