1984 F150 full Calif smog best tune

Hello, it was suggested I move my post to the “main” forum. Hope this is it. LOL old people and and smart phones.
I hope I can learn how to use this site.
I have an 84 F150 extra cab automaticlong bed, 4x4, with very low miles for it’s age, under 100,000 miles.
 
It is completely stock and a California vehicle which means I have to leave all the smog in place. I’m hoping to learn everything I can to be able to get this 302 2 bbl to the best tune I can in spite of all the smog. I need to understand all the vacuum from smog to whatever else is actuated with vacuum, I’m guessing a truck this age is going to have cracked vacuum lines which will play havoc on tuning. Need to know how to trouble shoot and find all the vacuum associated items.
I have a “stumble” right off throttle. You can feather the throttle and get it past the stumble but the truck just seems to have a hard time getting up to speed. Seems sluggish. The tires are a size or two taller than stock maybe this is part of the sluggish issue? I want to rebuild the carb. Let me revise that, I believe I am going to buy another carb, any suggestions? I’m thinking accelerator pump and this is where I am hoping to tap into your brain trust. Maybe it’s a vacuum issue? Maybe a timing issue? Maybe a carb issue?
Maybe it is a combo of things? Looking for everything I can check and eliminate. What is the best kit, or replacement carb. The reason I am leaning to another carb is one of the mixture screws is broke off and I an not really wanting to drill out and heli coil.
I have Orilleys, Auto Zone and Napa locally and of course the internet.
Carb adjusting, Timing, transmission kick down adjustment, choke adjustment. Overall there is a lot of wires and hoses (smog) I’m guessing to wade through just to get to the engine and I’m guessing that all this smog has got to be working correct to get the best tune I can.
Any help with navigating and posting would be appreciated.
Right up front I am a computer/Tech dummy, which makes my objective of having access to all the knowledge and help offered here almost out of reach.
Thank you in advance
Ed from north east California near Nevada and Oregon boarders where the pavement ends and the west is still wild. I know, doesn’t fit the typical image of what people think of California. I live where the Sierra’s end and the Cascade’s begin on the east side of the mountains in the high desert right where the pine trees end and all the farm land for raising hay and ranching begins. I can leave my back yard and for the most part make to Idaho through Nevada or into east Oregon without getting on any pavement (almost) so I need to get this 84 in tip top shape.
Thank you again
Ed

Welcome!  I have an 84 F-150 with a 302 as well, made for (and living in) California.  That's a great truck, with low miles.  Mine has 308K, but it's still going strong!

There is a lot to expound on, but I can try to at least compare notes with you.  

You have EEC-IV ignition, which means you have a Motorcraft 2150 feedback carb.  This means the ECU (computer) in your truck (probably behind your instrument panel) controls timing and mixture.  The 2150 has a stepper motor that the ECU uses to adjust mixture on the carb.  I haven't tried (as I got my 2150 rebuilt) but assuming your truck has the same build as mine, you can't just drop a Amazon carb on there and expect it to work, as the "feedback" portion is missing on replacement carbs as far as I know.

The CA emissions are a pain in the butt.  I just got done replacing all my rubber hoses with fresh silicone ones.  I would recommend you get a OBD 1 reader, like this one:

https://a.co/d/6x6h4Zi

Use the manual it comes with, and read the trouble codes out.  It is simple to use.  Start with the KOEO test, get those codes clean.  Then perform the KOER test, get those cleaned up.  There will be trial and error, some false trails etc but you have to get the codes clean for the engine to perform at its best.  The codes should help you discover some things you didn't realize.  

When I got my truck back, I had like 8 codes.  I had to replace the O2 sensor, TPS sensor, MAP sensor, and a few others I can't remember this late at night.

Your hesistation could be a result of the ECU codes, or a vacuum leak as well.  I still have a slight stumble even though I have had the carb professionally rebuilt and the computer is clean.  I am starting to think it is the torque converter.  What transmission do you have?  The AOD, right? 3 speed with overdrive?

As I mentioned in your introductory thread...

https://www.carburetor-parts.com/motorcraft-2150-technical

https://www.carburetor-parts.com/2150-carburetor-parts

Dear Mr. Ckuske,
My apologies for such a delayed reply. I kid you not I just stumbled on how to log in. I get up every day and mess with the forum until my  frustration limit is reached then I put it down and try the next day and can’t seem to navigate this forum worth a hill of beans.   
Anyhow thank you for such an informative reply. I’m not sure if I am in the “main” forum as it was suggested I post into to get more views and help.
I have been searching the internet for what ignition and carb I have and have determined what you posted here weeks ago to be so. Your info is exactly why I want to figure out how to use this forum. Just figuring out the “spout” was a nightmare because Youtube and Google searches produced this result…






And this is what I have…





I did not have these images in my photos I just did a search just now and captured these images from a Google search which brought me this forum and I captured the images then came back and everything I had written to you was gone.  

I’m not sure how I searched for an 84 Ford F150 spout before when I could not determine where my spout was,  I figured it out with the help of a Haynes manual that I just picked up a couple of days ago, that there is more than one kind of spout but the irony of my search just now on Google came up in the pictures of two different types in “garysgaragemahal” forum is laughable.  



Oh well hopefully I will get this figured out. The way I stumbled on how to sign in today was I went to the new members page and was going to “re-register” the only other time I kinda successfully interacted with this forum, so I clicked on that link and just happen to turn my iphone sideways and saw a “login” link.

I’m guessing there is a more direct link to the login but it’s been weeks that I have been looking and I just got lucky today.

To answer your question Mr. Ckuske I believe I have a C6 tranny. 17 pan bolts and not a plain square or rectangle shape but a rectangle with a corner missing if you will and a door jam Vin sticker code of “K”

I too have purchased a re built carb from “Guaranteed Carburetors” from Florida. Takes 6-7 days to get here and they sent me a manual tranny carb. They have sent me another and it’s suppose to get here Aug 16 23 with two return labels for my core and their manual carb.



Getting traction on this 84 project is proving to be challenging but I am learning things and if I can learn how to use this forum it looks like it will take a lot of the school of hard knocks learning  away and stream line everything like who might be the best carb rebuild company or what I even have for an ignition and carb or tranny like you posted to me weeks ago.




So here is what I have ran into in preparation for my carb to get here.

I can not figure out how to hook up my old school Rac tach/dwell meter to monitor my RPM’s during  the vacuum gauge, mixture screw adjusting and while checking/setting my initial timing and seeing what RPM my total timing is coming in at.

From what I have deduced all I can set is initial and the ECM? computer does the rest?

Nothing inside the distributor except a rotor and a window magnet electronic gizmo.

As I removed the coil, module, condensor and manifold plugs to gain better access to that portion of the wiring harness to try to figure out a way to hook up the tach/dwell meter for a temporary tach I discovered my wiring as of right now is crumbling. The insulation off of my spout wire from the plug which is yellowish and a blue wire (PIP?) above it at the module plug is crumbling as are those wires further back in the harness, I have stripped off the loom and tape, also a black with pink stripe is cracking in several places.

I’m afraid to keep following, stripping off the loom and tape, for fear of making things worse.

Is this a thing? Is there someone out there that reproduces color code matching wiring harnesses?

It ran ok with a bit of a stumble until I started working on it.







I thought I was kinda handy with mechanical things but then along came my beloved Bullnose.

So whats the easy way to hook up a tach?

I got under the dash to look for the green yellow wire that goes to the dash tach if you happed to have a tach, which I do not, and said to myself,”oh, not today skippy!” Scary lol

If my wiring wasn’t so bad I was thinking of cutting in a splice to the neg side of the coil.

Thank you Ford engineers for going to the new and improved square coil with no external + or - terminals and also special thanks for burying it under the AC compressor.






Also what’s up with the timing mark indicator? It’s like a bracket that bolts on to the engine block around a small block on the engine block that has like a peep sight looking onto the harmonic balancer then the timing mark indicator edge/point.

There are no wires attached to it as if it were some kind of crankshaft position sensor?!?

Remember the old ad jingle “Ford has a better idea.”




WTH?!?!?!

 “what the heck” keeping it clean. Lol

All this Cali smog stuff is a learning curve and a PITH, pain in the hiney. Lol

I will be going out and getting an OBD 1 reader as you suggested.

I have not seen an obvious place to hook up a scan tool.

May I ask where this is. I’m sure it is on this forum somewhere. Lol

I am going to check the Haynes manual. That manual is about as worthless of a manual there is but it was the fastest thing I could put my hands on.

Oh yeah I need one more thing for right now to be able to finish this new carb install and check my timing, a picture of a 1984 California smog underhood sticker, mines gone.

The Haynes manual says to refer to your sticker for timing info and procedures.




I’m looking to get the complete shop manual reprint off of Rockauto for $75 bucks plus shipping unless I get a better alternative from you or others here in the forum.

Well a lot to wade through, sorry to include everything in one post I’m just not confident that I will be able to find my way back. Lol

Thank you for taking the time to read all this.

Ed

Thank you AWT,
I have been struggling navigating this forum so sorry about this delayed reply.

Great links!!!

I ran I to this guy on Youtube.

One of my mixture screws broke off so I opted to buy a recon carb from Guaranteed Carburetors in Florida.

They mistakenly sent me a manual tranny carb so I am waiting for for the correct auto tranny carb supposed to be here in a couple of days.

If you can take a peek at my reply to Mr. Culske, I’m working from memory here so sorry if I miss spelled his name, and feel free to field any of the questions or address and solutions to my difficulties I have in that very long reply to him.

Still stumbling along but making progress.

Thank you for your help.

Ed

You're doing fine, Ed!  

Hopefully you will soon have the correct carburetor and Chris can help you navigate some of the Cali emissions found on these trucks.

Hi Ed,

Just call me Chris, no worries!

I am by no means a guru on these trucks, but I'm hoping I can help you a bit.  Ok, C6.  Good to know.  For your issues, I don't think that will make a difference right now vs my truck with an AOD.

First of all - yes, the insulation on the wiring in this truck is bad.  But, it has cooked for 40 years at this point, so I guess a little leeway is to be given.  On my truck, I had lots of fault codes.  Some were legitimate, and a couple related to the TPS were because the insulation on four different wires had all worn off at the same place, and the exposed wires were touching inside the bundle.  (Passenger side near valve cover/#3 cylinder).  I ended up having to re-wire that section by splicing and soldering.  It was not fun, but it fixed the problem.  I actually have one spot way at the back of the engine that is probably the same thing with an intermittent EGR fault code.

The tach, I can't help much on.  My truck has a working factory tach and I dare not touch it.

Regarding timing, you are right.  With ECM trucks, you pull the spout, set the timing to 10 degrees as the initial timing, and the ECM takes care of the rest.

I've put a picture of my emissions decal below.  I think it should be very similar to yours, considering it is same year and engine configuration, and from CA.

https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/kvFQlEZHQ5CP2xN97ElbiA.NBdfAfPYDBz96CqHIdGR5v

You got in!  And you did that about 30 minutes before I answered today's email from you.  Well done!

And I'm also sure Chris can help you.  But if you can find the calibration code for your truck I can find the parts list for you.  The calibration code will be on a sticker like shown below:

Oh sorry, I missed your question as to where to hook up the reader.

It should be on the passenger side, next to the "coffee can" vacuum reservoir.  There is a large either red or gray connector (about 4 or 5 pins) as well as a single pin grey connector.  This isn't be best picture from earlier in my cleanup, but it should help:



For how to use the reader, it will come with a manual but Gary has an EEC page you'll probably get familiar with (I know I have, and thanks, Gary!)

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/electronic-engine-control-eec.html

It looks like this is a thread in the “main” forum? Yes? I’m not sure if I reply clicking on the last posts “reply” button if all, Gary, Jim and Chris will be notified via email or within the forum some how or if I have to Click “reply” to each individual post in this thread? Not even sure if I’m asking the correct question. Anyways a huge thank you to Gary, Jim and Chris for all your information and help and encouragement. I’m not sure if you noticed but this is the second day in a row that I have accessed this forum!!!! Woot woot ;-) Thank you Gary for the link to the login page. Yes Jim and Gary, Chris has the skills. :-) Chris thank you for lots. I have saved the smog sticker and manipulated it and printed it out and saved into my notes. I have not found a “Calibration code” as Gary requested. The stickers have not faired well over the last 40 years just like the wiring and me. Lol Do you happen to have a legible calibration code you could send me a pic of or are they vehicle specific? I went to AutoZone yesterday and picked up an OBD 1 reader, the same one you linked to and the same price as Amazon. I guess Amazon isn’t the most economic choice any more. Same price and I have Prime so no shipping but at AutoZone I walked out the door with it and because I live in such a rural place Amazon takes a minimum of three days. I was surprised usually around here, anyways, the chain auto stores are at least two if not three times internet prices. I have located the OBD 1 plug ins thank you right where you said and YouTube and Google had chasing my tail again and my Haines manual didn’t even mention OBD 1 just OBD II? The Innova 1345 reader, same one you linked to is pinned different than my plug but it covers a few years soooo…… It looks like all I need is; E 359 signal return ground C 658 check engine light ground 1 209 self test output To get the reader to scan besides a carburetor and un shorting wires, minor details. Lol Replacing all vacuum lines with silicone lines sounds like an excellent idea, was that a complete kit or an individual each by each replacement, I can’t recall what you said and I don’t dare navigate away from this reply window. If “Motorcraft” ICM? Module on side of carb are known to fail is there a better brand? Also anybody tried getting the fender mounted heat sync for the module, not sure what year it’s from, and get the module off the distributor and away from direct engine heat? Not sure what it would take to have a 3 prong hook up from distributor to module but if I am going to have to re wire my module/coil, water temp part of the harness I might as well go long and take it to the fender? I got the new module plug but I’m working on a quick fix “Jerry Rig” wiring fix at the moment so I can get the carb, when it gets here, installed and see if the rebuild is any good and get started messing with the timing and carb and OBD 1 codes. Do you happen to know what is up with my timing indicator that I described in my other post? The thing that look like an external crankshaft/harmonic balancer position sensor bracket thingy with no wires attached to it. If you need a pic I can accommodate. Ok well I have some work ahead of me once the carb comes, hoping today but probably tomorrow. Thank you for everything Ed

Yes, this thread is in the main forum, so you got it right.  Plus, I'm glad you are getting logged in correctly.
 And you are replying to the posts correctly.  However, this forum is unusual in that people have to subscribe to get notified by email, so Jim or Chris might not be notified.  Hopefully Chris will be back to answer your questions.

But calibration codes are quasi vehicle specific.  However Chris might have the calibration info for his truck and if his is the same as yours that info should work.

I might be able to get the calibration code by the Carb Tag# and EGR Valve#
I've seen the carb and EGR engineering numbers in his pictures...

So I will see what I can find out...

It's either Calibration Code Parts List Number: 377 or number 410.


Hope this helps.

The calibration code on my truck was long gone by the time I got it back, and when I was 16 I was probably too dumb to realize it's importance.

Jim is right on those codes - there are only a couple candidates and the variation is very small between them.  While the engineer in me hates "close enough", sometimes with these trucks we can only make educated guesses and do what makes sense.

The calibration codes everyone is referring to is here, it lists the smog parts applicable to each configuration.

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/calibration-info--part-s.html

Regarding the module on the distributor, that's the TFI module.  People do relocate it because of thermal issues - I haven't, mine is holding up fine.  But it wouldn't be a bad idea to do so while things are "heavy rework"

On the timing indicator, I'm not sure.  A picture would help, others could easily chime in on that as well.

These are pics of my timing pointer.

There are no wires connected to it.

The pointer bracket appears to be bolted around a small block that seems to be part of the block and from what I can tell the little block covered by the pointer bracket is not solid but looks as though something might fit in it?

As you can see the pointer bracket has what looks like to me like a peep sight?

The Haynes manual does not show any details about timing pointers or harmonic balancers or any mention of external or internal “crankshaft position sensor”

So if you can solve this unique mystery timing pointer configuration that would be lovely.

I just want to make sure something isn’t missing that will keep me from getting the old Bully Bully from running correctly.

Speaking of things that may need adjusting, I got my carb this afternoon and as I was swapping things over from my carb to their rebuilt carb I pondered about the adjustments of the two main vacuum actuated items on this carb which I started researching and have not come up with definitive answers;

My vacuum “throttle kicker” slash “dash pot” for my 84 5.0 does not leak vacuum and when I apply vacuum to the diaphragm part of the device the “kicker” doesn’t really move but it doesn’t leak.

I have read what Gary has on the forum for the 2150, at least what I was directed to via a Google search and I can not figure how to test or adjust. Stuff I read about on other Google searches dealt with electronic controlled not vacuum and A/C. I found nothing that said the vacuum actuator had to do with A/C and I found nothing on how to test and adjust.

However if it is working there is an adjustment that allows you to move the entire unit to obtain a proper curb idle rpm.

Same goes for the vacuum “choke pull off” I think is what it is called.

I have to transfer these items over to the rebuilt carb and I have not found any test or adjusting instructions.

Interesting the Haynes says that the computer input carb was a stop gap to fuel injection and that it will not be covered in the book and to take it to a dealer.

Just for fun I called a dealer or two and their response to me bringing the truck to them was they do not work on vehicles that old and do not work on carburetors.







It didn’t surprise me, I ran into the same thing on my bike and it’s a 2004.LOL

I appreciate that right up front because I would hate to pay someone that would mess things up not as bad as me and it still be wrong. Lol

That’s why this forum is so important to me. The knowledge and skills to keep these vehicles alive and well are passing away just like the mechanics that took care of them when they were new.

Thank you Gary for all your efforts and one day I hope to become very familiar with using this forum and with the knowledge I acquire to get and keep this 84 running at its best and to be able to help others sort out their unique troubles that seem to be built into these trucks especially if you live in California and have to leave all the transitionary learn as they go smog on.

I guess once the mystery is over it will all make sense and will be easy.

Oh how I wish I could have a smog delete engine under the hood.

Hummmmmm in rural California you only have to smog upon title transfer soooooo I could pull this stock smogged engine and wrap it up and store it and put a proper 5.0 under the hood. Very interesting, hey good talk thanks for the idea.

I’m now also looking for a rebuildable 302 besides a front 1/2 ton Ford solid differential for the front of my truck, don’t really want to keep the twin I beam? differential or whatever they call it, not sure of the gear ration but I can change a ring and pinion easy enough.

Thank you Chris and anyone else that might have replies and answers to my step by step learning curve.

Ed

No wires, and nothing fits in the 'peep sight's.
It is the opposite side (square edge) that you use to set the timing.
With the SPOUT unplugged.

Your 2150 should have wires leading to a solenoid valve.
This is what the ECM uses to dial in the mixture.

If you want a book that covers your unique carburetor and emissions system I think you need a copy of the 1984 Factory Service Manual.
Often you can find these in good condition on eBay, and I believe HiPo Parts offers them on CD.

Some trouble shooting can be found in Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1984

Edit: strike that. Gary doesn't have a 1984 EVTM up on the site.
But 1985 should serve. The 5.0 EFI was only available mid year.

Unfortunately there never was a solid front axle found in this generation trucks.
The F-350 started offering the Dana 60 in 1985, but it has 8 lug hubs and leaf springs, neither of which really work for you.

Regarding the kicker solenoid, there is a hold down screw between the solenoid and the carb.  It is vertically oriented (looking down at the engine, the head of the screw is staring up at you).  You need to loosen that.  Then, you can turn the screw with a wrench on the spring loaded portion of solenoid itself to adjust the idle up/down.  Then, you would cinch down the hold down screw again to hold it the solenoid in place.



I concur with Jim, you should take a look at the EVTM as well as any service manuals you can find.  I have found a few in corners of the Internet by Googling, but their provenance is "questionable" so I'm not going to risk sharing them if you know what I mean...

The manuals are invaluable, I have spent a lot of time reading sections to understand how this truck works (or try at least).  I'm only half-joking with this movie reference hahaha, like the knight reading his Bible (I assume) for the last 700 years:

1984 EVTM:
https://www.themotorbookstore.com/1984-ford-bronco-f150-350-electrical-vacuum-troubleshooting-manual.html

There's also the Emissions Diagnosis & Engine Electronics supplement to the 1984 FSM.
Seems like what you need....  

https://www.themotorbookstore.com/1984-ford-truck-engine-electronics-emissions-diagnosis-manual.html

I can't vouch for this because I've never had to deal with EEC in a 100% compliance state like California, but Ralph has plenty of dealer experience so I'm sure he could tell you how worthwhile it could be.

If you want to see what's in an Engine & Emission Diagnosis manual we have the 1986 version here on the site.

If the assertion by Indiana Jones in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, set in 1938, that the Ford MCU Controlled Feedback Carburetor Knight and his brothers began guarding the “Ford service manual” 700 years prior, around 1238, is accurate, then the siblings can't be Ford 2150 service tech’s of the First Crusade per Walter Donovan's "bedtime story" earlier in the film.

I took some humorous artistic liberties.

I am feeling your point!!!!
























Your joke might be the reality.








Ed :)