1980 F150 Shortbox 4x4

Hey guys!
Well the truck is running, no air cleaner yet because I've got the fitech unit, the regular transmission kickdown bar doesn't fit. They'll get ya $. Anyways, I had to grab a special bracket, throttle cable and transmission kickdown cable that integrates with the fitech, then I'll get an air cleaner with the right clearance. So without this stuff on yet, and with my oil pressure and ammeter temperature gauges not wired, i haven't been driving too much, but did get a chance to do a dump run :)

I'm currently working on turn signal wiring and have a little issue I was hoping I could get some guidance on:







Sooo.. RE the turn signals: When I started this resto, my turn signal indicator latch was broken so the right signal wouldn't stay on. I bought a new unit and pulled the wheel and installed that during the process. Now my issue is this:
- My running lights and headlights work (although the highbeam switch, when pressed, turns off the headlights completely, so I think that may be a switch issue?.. will use separate post....) 
 - Now, when I use the turn signal, the rear signal light goes on (both sides) but does not flash... and the front signal light does not brighten or flash at all.
(- I should note also, that the heater doesn't work and I think they share the same power?)
 - in any case, I've traced some wiring and i THINK it might be the turn signal flasher? this is all new to me though, so any pointers are very appreciated.

 - Front DS signal is Green w/ white stripe which runs into a double connection int he harness under the wheel, and matches the green w white stripe coming from the steering column
 - Front PS signal is White w/ Blue stripe and runs into a connection in the harness under the wheel and matches the white w/ blue strip coming from the steering column

 - Looking at the fuse box on the 15 amp turn signal fuse, in the back there is ONE purple wire going into this fuse...

 - Looking at the wiring diagram for this it shows a Green wire w/ red stripe, but I don't know where this leads...

MY QUESTION: looking at the wiring diagrams and the wiring, am i missing anything here, or do you think it's just a flasher? And wis one of these units on the fuse box the emergency flasher and one the turn signal flasher? which is which?

Also to note - when the turn signal is on, the indicator light on the bezel does NOT go on..

Any help or pointers are VERY appreciated.... THANK YOU !!!

1980 wiring Diagram, see 'C-805' is the front of the fuse box top left. Also what is the 'speed control' , is that cruise control? I don't have that... and where is the turn and emergency signal switch? In the steering column??


Front of fuse box:


Back of fuse box: I think that light blue wire (see wiring dia) is part of this puzzle but i don't know how..?

So the turn signals worked before changing out the switch.
You should have 4 wires coming out of the switch, 2 to the front L/R and 2 the rear L/R.
The reason is the rear also dose the brake lights and if the turn signal is on for a side and the brakes hit the light keeps blinking.

On the flashers I think the one on the front is the turn signals and the rear for 4 ways.
You can swap them if you want just keep in mind you have 4 lights on 4 way and only 2 on the turn signal and flashers work on load so the 4 way may not blink for the turn signal.

Are you sure the lights not working the bulbs are good?
If the rear lights up I think the dash should also.
Check all grounds there is one at each front corner for the front lights.
Now outback I am not 100% sure but if it is like my 81 style side there was a ground at each light, pull the light and you should see a screw behind each light.

That should give you things to look at.
Dave ----

Thanks FuzzFace! That is all very useful info. So for whatever reason i discovered the front lights were working after all, just not flashing. I have figured out the issue --

I have all new LED lights, and I needed a flasher that is able to flash for the LED's.
To confirm also, yes the flasher on the front  of fusebox (1980) is turn signals.

This is the part i ordered from LMC


The four ways don't work, so I'll order another one for that, and use the cables they provide to mount it off the fusebox because it won't fit in the back.

I also just installed today a Lokar throttle cable and transmission kickdown onto my Fitech unit. I took pics along the way I'll post that soon! It was raining and i don't have my wipers on yet, so haven't gone for a rip.

I should have thought of that as I put LED's in the turn signals and they didn't work.  

Glad you figured it out.

There are electronic flashers in a form factor that will fit behind the fuse panel.

A lot of them even allow you to set the flash rate.

I remember back when we had to do this with a 555 and a Pot.

555 and a pot is exactly what I would have done.  I even have a pretty nice battery charger using a 555.  Loved them.

Anyone an idea why my high beams might turn off when i use the foot operated high beam switch?
the high beam and side markers turn off when i use the switch on the floor.

I took the switch apart and it appears to work.
I have LED projector head lights, and i've changed the diodes around on there, and still nothing. kind of confused. though it must have been the foot switch, alas, it looks like it's working, as it's mechanical I can see the switch change over when I took it apart and pressed it in...

Back at it tmw, just figured I put it out there in case any time savers where to turn next.. crawling through the wiring dia!

The foot switch is a simple SPDT.

Headlight on power goes either to the low or high beams.
If your projector beams draw too much current the circuit breaker in the headlight switch will kill power in that circuit.
Get a headlight relay kit from LMC or somewhere....

My '87 may be different. Let me go to the EVTM pages and have a look.

http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1986-evtm.html

10, 11, 12.. pgs 66-80 show everything in question.

LED's are fickle because their driver circuits don't react as a regular filament would.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1986-evtm.html

10, 11, 12.. pgs 66-80 show everything in question.

LED's are fickle because their driver circuits don't react as a regular filament would.

Yea I would use a normal head light for testing and if that works then it has to be them new fancy LED head lights.
Dave ----

Just unplugging them all and using a $2 Horrid Fate test light would answer the question....

Godsend w/ the EVTM manual and the insight.. THANK YOU!
I actually have one of these harnesses at the house. I think it sounds like this will (hopefully) fix it.
And I need to get a circuit tester of course, just hadn't had a chance to stop @ Cdn Tire so going on trial and error and ran every trial in the book I think.
Got to a point last night where then the low beams would come on... on one side.  Then hitting the floor dimmer switch would change the low beam to the other side (no high beams).
Will update this wknd. Thank you guys

That sounds like a ground problem. I say that because what you described shouldn’t happen, but a ground problem can make very strange things happen. Check the headlight grounds.

Gary Lewis wrote

That sounds like a ground problem. I say that because what you described shouldn’t happen, but a ground problem can make very strange things happen. Check the headlight grounds.

If you go here (Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1981 EVTM/Lights), which is where the illustrations below come from, you'll see that the left headlight grounds on G801 and the right on G802.  And that those grounds are on the inner fenders behind the headlights.  Those grounds would be the first things I'd check.

Have you checked or replaced the dimmer switch?

I’ve had those kill the brights, driving down the road tapping it to get it to work.

Well, finally figured out the lights with the father in law last wknd.
THANK You for the EVTM..The old lights had two filaments/bulbs (Hi-Beam (g/b)) & ( Lo-Beam (r/b)) running power from the dimmer switch on the floor. The new projector lights run one bulb with constant power, and the difference @ the dimmer switch is that the switch needs to operate a mechanical shutter that cuts off the light, rather than another bulb. In order to keep my high beam dash light working in order-- I swapped the low beam / hi beam wires at the light and then merged the power for the lowbeam (r/b)and constant power (r/y) at the dimmer switch. FINALLY!  

Didn't use the aftermarket headlight harness w relays because the LED draw so little power, just extra wiring.


Next... onto oil pressure sensor and engine temp sensor!


Merged the constant power (r/y) to the old low beam power (r/b) (constant power @ headlight when switch is pulled)


Filled the garage with a little smoke  to test

Lo-Beam On:


Hi-Beam On:

Nice job getting the lights to work.
Have you tested it out on the road yet?

That reminds me I need to adjust / aim my head lights and add the relay harness I have.
Dave ----

But the smoke effect looks good