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1980 F150 Shortbox 4x4


gtanns

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http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1986-evtm.html

10, 11, 12.. pgs 66-80 show everything in question.

LED's are fickle because their driver circuits don't react as a regular filament would.

Yea I would use a normal head light for testing and if that works then it has to be them new fancy LED head lights.

Dave ----

Just unplugging them all and using a $2 Horrid Fate test light would answer the question....

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The foot switch is a simple SPDT.

Headlight on power goes either to the low or high beams.

If your projector beams draw too much current the circuit breaker in the headlight switch will kill power in that circuit.

Get a headlight relay kit from LMC or somewhere....

My '87 may be different. Let me go to the EVTM pages and have a look.

Godsend w/ the EVTM manual and the insight.. THANK YOU!

I actually have one of these harnesses at the house. I think it sounds like this will (hopefully) fix it.

And I need to get a circuit tester of course, just hadn't had a chance to stop @ Cdn Tire so going on trial and error and ran every trial in the book I think.

Got to a point last night where then the low beams would come on... on one side. Then hitting the floor dimmer switch would change the low beam to the other side (no high beams).

Will update this wknd. Thank you guys :nabble_smiley_good:

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Godsend w/ the EVTM manual and the insight.. THANK YOU!

I actually have one of these harnesses at the house. I think it sounds like this will (hopefully) fix it.

And I need to get a circuit tester of course, just hadn't had a chance to stop @ Cdn Tire so going on trial and error and ran every trial in the book I think.

Got to a point last night where then the low beams would come on... on one side. Then hitting the floor dimmer switch would change the low beam to the other side (no high beams).

Will update this wknd. Thank you guys :nabble_smiley_good:

That sounds like a ground problem. I say that because what you described shouldn’t happen, but a ground problem can make very strange things happen. Check the headlight grounds.

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That sounds like a ground problem. I say that because what you described shouldn’t happen, but a ground problem can make very strange things happen. Check the headlight grounds.

If you go here (Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1981 EVTM/Lights), which is where the illustrations below come from, you'll see that the left headlight grounds on G801 and the right on G802. And that those grounds are on the inner fenders behind the headlights. Those grounds would be the first things I'd check.

6182350.thumb.jpg.1b338ef7c62658754c4fcc785b27b045.jpg

692861.thumb.jpg.877c4f14cfe9e39edbdb9cea18222421.jpg

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That sounds like a ground problem. I say that because what you described shouldn’t happen, but a ground problem can make very strange things happen. Check the headlight grounds.

If you go here (Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1981 EVTM/Lights), which is where the illustrations below come from, you'll see that the left headlight grounds on G801 and the right on G802. And that those grounds are on the inner fenders behind the headlights. Those grounds would be the first things I'd check.

Have you checked or replaced the dimmer switch?

I’ve had those kill the brights, driving down the road tapping it to get it to work.

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Have you checked or replaced the dimmer switch?

I’ve had those kill the brights, driving down the road tapping it to get it to work.

Well, finally figured out the lights with the father in law last wknd.

THANK You for the EVTM..The old lights had two filaments/bulbs (Hi-Beam (g/b)) & ( Lo-Beam (r/b)) running power from the dimmer switch on the floor. The new projector lights run one bulb with constant power, and the difference @ the dimmer switch is that the switch needs to operate a mechanical shutter that cuts off the light, rather than another bulb. In order to keep my high beam dash light working in order-- I swapped the low beam / hi beam wires at the light and then merged the power for the lowbeam (r/b)and constant power (r/y) at the dimmer switch. FINALLY! :nabble_smiley_thinking:

Didn't use the aftermarket headlight harness w relays because the LED draw so little power, just extra wiring.

Next... onto oil pressure sensor and engine temp sensor!

Merged the constant power (r/y) to the old low beam power (r/b) (constant power @ headlight when switch is pulled)

dimmer_switch.thumb.jpg.03a2575a18726c6f15616bfd7a0d6081.jpg

Filled the garage with a little smoke :nabble_smiley_blush: to test

Lo-Beam On:

Low_Beam_Bullnose_F150.png.0a196c96f1d7883b3b8588ce0a1279f2.png

Hi-Beam On:

High_Beam_Bullnose_F150.png.2dbb0d5c1cdc2757a83020efbada0e68.png

Headlight_Bullnose_1980_F150.jpg.f106f637b47ba3192ff2e6c7c0c420c4.jpg

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Well, finally figured out the lights with the father in law last wknd.

THANK You for the EVTM..The old lights had two filaments/bulbs (Hi-Beam (g/b)) & ( Lo-Beam (r/b)) running power from the dimmer switch on the floor. The new projector lights run one bulb with constant power, and the difference @ the dimmer switch is that the switch needs to operate a mechanical shutter that cuts off the light, rather than another bulb. In order to keep my high beam dash light working in order-- I swapped the low beam / hi beam wires at the light and then merged the power for the lowbeam (r/b)and constant power (r/y) at the dimmer switch. FINALLY! :nabble_smiley_thinking:

Didn't use the aftermarket headlight harness w relays because the LED draw so little power, just extra wiring.

Next... onto oil pressure sensor and engine temp sensor!

Merged the constant power (r/y) to the old low beam power (r/b) (constant power @ headlight when switch is pulled)

Filled the garage with a little smoke :nabble_smiley_blush: to test

Lo-Beam On:

Hi-Beam On:

Nice job getting the lights to work.

Have you tested it out on the road yet?

That reminds me I need to adjust / aim my head lights and add the relay harness I have.

Dave ----

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Well, finally figured out the lights with the father in law last wknd.

THANK You for the EVTM..The old lights had two filaments/bulbs (Hi-Beam (g/b)) & ( Lo-Beam (r/b)) running power from the dimmer switch on the floor. The new projector lights run one bulb with constant power, and the difference @ the dimmer switch is that the switch needs to operate a mechanical shutter that cuts off the light, rather than another bulb. In order to keep my high beam dash light working in order-- I swapped the low beam / hi beam wires at the light and then merged the power for the lowbeam (r/b)and constant power (r/y) at the dimmer switch. FINALLY! :nabble_smiley_thinking:

Didn't use the aftermarket headlight harness w relays because the LED draw so little power, just extra wiring.

Next... onto oil pressure sensor and engine temp sensor!

Merged the constant power (r/y) to the old low beam power (r/b) (constant power @ headlight when switch is pulled)

Filled the garage with a little smoke :nabble_smiley_blush: to test

Lo-Beam On:

Hi-Beam On:

But the smoke effect looks good :nabble_smiley_good:

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