Larry the Lariat - My 86 F150 4x4

[FuzzFace2]

I've been able to adjust the door hinges w/o removing the fender. Not sure how I did it, but I think it included swivel adapters.

Jim is right to check the hing pins & bushing before any adjusting.

You check this with the door almost closed, open just enough to grab it and lift up & down.

When the door is open all the way you are not on the part of the hing that might be warn and you get no play.

Any play in the pins & bushings they need to be replaced.

Dave ----

[chirkware]

Jim is right to check the hing pins & bushing before any adjusting.

You check this with the door almost closed, open just enough to grab it and lift up & down.

When the door is open all the way you are not on the part of the hing that might be warn and you get no play.

Any play in the pins & bushings they need to be replaced.

Dave ----

You guys have nailed it again. I don't know WHAT these are, but they look nothing like the pins on the passenger side (which are painted white like everything else). This is the top one, bottom one doesn't look much better.

I can pick the door up about 1/4" or so, and it's obvious the play is in the hinges.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

You guys have nailed it again. I don't know WHAT these are, but they look nothing like the pins on the passenger side (which are painted white like everything else). This is the top one, bottom one doesn't look much better.

I can pick the door up about 1/4" or so, and it's obvious the play is in the hinges.

I notice your body line does not meet by the door handle.

You have probably lost the plastic bushing on the door striker too, because the door is sagging.

https://www.amazon.com/Door-Hinge-Roller-Bushing-Bronco/dp/B07KXD1452/ref=sr_1_25_sspa?crid=G297TF8HR4K1&keywords=dorman%2Bford%2B1986%2Bhinge%2Bpin%2Bkit%2Bof%2B4&qid=1665367895&qu=eyJxc2MiOiItMC4wMSIsInFzYSI6IjAuMDAiLCJxc3AiOiIwLjAwIn0%3D&s=automotive&sprefix=dormant%2Bford%2B1986%2Bhinge%2Bpin%2Bkit%2Bof%2B4%2Cautomotive%2C140&sr=1-25-spons&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-38448-Door-Striker-Bolt/dp/B000COB5LM/ref=pd_bxgy_sccl_1/140-7859641-3584234?pd_rd_w=wNXDF&content-id=amzn1.sym.7757a8b5-874e-4a67-9d85-54ed32f01737&pf_rd_p=7757a8b5-874e-4a67-9d85-54ed32f01737&pf_rd_r=XCQWW4P5BG5SB5YXAYQ3&pd_rd_wg=dQPxE&pd_rd_r=0be88cd5-bcb3-4fb5-b3ca-4155c435c656&pd_rd_i=B000COB5LM&psc=1

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

You guys have nailed it again. I don't know WHAT these are, but they look nothing like the pins on the passenger side (which are painted white like everything else). This is the top one, bottom one doesn't look much better.

I can pick the door up about 1/4" or so, and it's obvious the play is in the hinges.

I notice the bottom of that pin is bent.

I usually cut the pin in the middle of the hinge with a Dremel and remove both halves from the center out.

Vice-grips and a hammer are your friends...

If you have an engine hoist I find it much easier to hang the door from the top of the window frame than to balance it on a floor jack (often with cribbing to reach)

Remove the kick panel and unplug the wires before you remove the rubber accordion tube going to the door.

[Gary Lewis]

You guys have nailed it again. I don't know WHAT these are, but they look nothing like the pins on the passenger side (which are painted white like everything else). This is the top one, bottom one doesn't look much better.

I can pick the door up about 1/4" or so, and it's obvious the play is in the hinges.

Yup, that would do it.

Jim's got you covered on the parts, but if you don't have a shop crane you might consider using a ratchet strap up to a tree limb or a hook in the ceiling.

[ArdWrknTrk]

. As it stands, I can't even lock the truck unless I want to crawl in through the rear window (the clip that locks it is broke, lol).

I never addressed this.

The C.R. Laurence DVL-2 hinged metal latch is a direct replacement that lasts much longer than the folded plastic hinge Ford used.

I turned Gary on to this little gem, and I know a bunch of other members use it too.

Haven't heard anyone say it has failed or doesn't fit.

[Gary Lewis]

. As it stands, I can't even lock the truck unless I want to crawl in through the rear window (the clip that locks it is broke, lol).

I never addressed this.

The C.R. Laurence DVL-2 hinged metal latch is a direct replacement that lasts much longer than the folded plastic hinge Ford used.

I turned Gary on to this little gem, and I know a bunch of other members use it too.

Haven't heard anyone say it has failed or doesn't fit.

Yup, I like mine. The plastic hinge broke and this not only solved the problem but is way better.

[chirkware]

Yup, I like mine. The plastic hinge broke and this not only solved the problem but is way better.

Finally got a chance to build a parts list and get some stuff ordered: Radiator hoses, thermostat, radiator cap, all belts, all brake hoses, new wheel cylinders for the back (haven't checked them, but I can't imagine them being OK after 16 years of mostly sitting, and they were $6 each), hardware kit for the rear brakes (since I plan on swapping the cylinders), speed bleeders for all four corners (well worth it for bleeding brakes by yourself), negative battery cable (the one I referenced before that actually bolts to body like the factory one), wiper blades, door hinge pins, and back slider latch.

I realized a few days ago that, since the power steering belt is currently missing, I also did not have a working fan, so I decided to minimize running it until I have the new belts installed. I think I'll get the belts on, and then I'm gonna cut one of the existing heater hoses, add a flush fitting, and run some radiator flush through the system. Once the engine is good and warm from that, I'll do an oil change. After it cools down, I'll flush it with water, cool, replace all the hoses and top it off with fresh coolant.

Once all that's done, I'll move it over to my driveway so I can get it up in the air a bit and go through the brakes. It appears the rear brakes are probably exactly the same as my 70...at least, so far it's the same shoes, wheel cylinders, and hardware. I didn't order shoes or pads as I want to see what I've got. Thankfully, the local O'Reilly will turn drums and rotors, so I'll take them there if need be. I'll make a judgement call on wheel bearings once I see them. I've only gotten into front brakes on a 4wd once, and that was a Nissan Hardbody, so it'll be interesting to see what those are like. The master cylinder still has fluid in it, albiet nasty. I'll try to carefully clean off the rusty rim, and suck out most of that fluid before adding fresh and then bleeding all four corners. Hopefully the front calipers are OK but I'll know soon enough.

My goal is to get a tag and try this thing on the road November 7. I may have to swap wheels/tires with Ole Blue as Larry's rubber is really, really sketchy looking. I've got to decide on some new rubber. Planning to go back to 235/75R15 in place of the 31x10.5's that are on it now.

My son and I took Ole Blue out to the last Cars and Coffee of the season yesterday. Ole Blue wasn't idling well, and was really sluggish, so we poured in some Berryman's, topped off the tank, and went out to the highway to blow out some cobwebs. The engine was dying every time we'd come to a stop. After 20 miles or so of 60+, with several stops and starts, it's running much better now. Helps that it's got a fresh fuel filter now (old one was NASTY). Hmmm...that reminds me, I still have to address the fuel system on Larry.

[Gary Lewis]

Finally got a chance to build a parts list and get some stuff ordered: Radiator hoses, thermostat, radiator cap, all belts, all brake hoses, new wheel cylinders for the back (haven't checked them, but I can't imagine them being OK after 16 years of mostly sitting, and they were $6 each), hardware kit for the rear brakes (since I plan on swapping the cylinders), speed bleeders for all four corners (well worth it for bleeding brakes by yourself), negative battery cable (the one I referenced before that actually bolts to body like the factory one), wiper blades, door hinge pins, and back slider latch.

I realized a few days ago that, since the power steering belt is currently missing, I also did not have a working fan, so I decided to minimize running it until I have the new belts installed. I think I'll get the belts on, and then I'm gonna cut one of the existing heater hoses, add a flush fitting, and run some radiator flush through the system. Once the engine is good and warm from that, I'll do an oil change. After it cools down, I'll flush it with water, cool, replace all the hoses and top it off with fresh coolant.

Once all that's done, I'll move it over to my driveway so I can get it up in the air a bit and go through the brakes. It appears the rear brakes are probably exactly the same as my 70...at least, so far it's the same shoes, wheel cylinders, and hardware. I didn't order shoes or pads as I want to see what I've got. Thankfully, the local O'Reilly will turn drums and rotors, so I'll take them there if need be. I'll make a judgement call on wheel bearings once I see them. I've only gotten into front brakes on a 4wd once, and that was a Nissan Hardbody, so it'll be interesting to see what those are like. The master cylinder still has fluid in it, albiet nasty. I'll try to carefully clean off the rusty rim, and suck out most of that fluid before adding fresh and then bleeding all four corners. Hopefully the front calipers are OK but I'll know soon enough.

My goal is to get a tag and try this thing on the road November 7. I may have to swap wheels/tires with Ole Blue as Larry's rubber is really, really sketchy looking. I've got to decide on some new rubber. Planning to go back to 235/75R15 in place of the 31x10.5's that are on it now.

My son and I took Ole Blue out to the last Cars and Coffee of the season yesterday. Ole Blue wasn't idling well, and was really sluggish, so we poured in some Berryman's, topped off the tank, and went out to the highway to blow out some cobwebs. The engine was dying every time we'd come to a stop. After 20 miles or so of 60+, with several stops and starts, it's running much better now. Helps that it's got a fresh fuel filter now (old one was NASTY). Hmmm...that reminds me, I still have to address the fuel system on Larry.

Sounds like a plan, Stan. Lots of good work! Hope it goes well.

[chirkware]

I've been able to adjust the door hinges w/o removing the fender. Not sure how I did it, but I think it included swivel adapters.

A few of the "I have no idea what this is or what it goes to" things I've noticed. I'm guessing maybe emissions stuff that has been deleted? It's all in one area, maybe stuff that all hooks together?