FuzzFace2 Posted October 3, 2022 Share Posted October 3, 2022 More of a curiosity than anything for now, but I’m trying to figure out how this hitch works. Looks like the door should come up all the way, and then the ball would pivot up, but I can only get the door about halfway up. Not sure if something is stuck down in there of if I’m just doing it wrong. Who puts a goose neck hitch in a 150 truck? Just never seen it in that light of a truck as most are on 350 and some 250 trucks. I guess the hitch weight would be lighter over the axle as some goes forward to the front axle where a bumper pull is all aft the axle and would add more weight for the same weight of the trailer hitch. Do you know what kind of trailer it pulled, horse, open deck, other? Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirkware Posted October 3, 2022 Author Share Posted October 3, 2022 More of a curiosity than anything for now, but I’m trying to figure out how this hitch works. Looks like the door should come up all the way, and then the ball would pivot up, but I can only get the door about halfway up. Not sure if something is stuck down in there of if I’m just doing it wrong. Who puts a goose neck hitch in a 150 truck? Just never seen it in that light of a truck as most are on 350 and some 250 trucks. I guess the hitch weight would be lighter over the axle as some goes forward to the front axle where a bumper pull is all aft the axle and would add more weight for the same weight of the trailer hitch. Do you know what kind of trailer it pulled, horse, open deck, other? Dave ---- I wondered the same thing. If I were gonna guess, I’d figure a farmer used it to haul horses or hay, but I really have no idea what it’s last like was. The guy I bought it from bought it in 2004 and last registered it in 2005 I think. He bought it as a project that he never got around to (he actually runs a classic car shop, and personal projects just take a backseat to customer projects). As far as I know, it would have been an owner previous to him that used the fifth wheel. I’ll be giving the suspension a good look, but haven’t noticed anything that indicates rough use in its history so far. Very few bumps and bruises on its body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirkware Posted October 3, 2022 Author Share Posted October 3, 2022 There's a hole in the side of the switch that you insert a 3/32" punch (or pin... or drill shank) when you install it. Be sure the transmission is in neutral. That assures alignment and proper reverse light operation. Perfect! My guess is they just didn’t hook it up. Thanks again! Ok, I got a good look at the NSS…it was attached, but the wiring harness coupler is a mess. Looks like that resulted in a loose connection and there’s some corrosion in it that doesn’t look good. The wire coming off the NSS is WAY long, making me wonder if it’s an aftermarket replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 3, 2022 Share Posted October 3, 2022 Ok, I got a good look at the NSS…it was attached, but the wiring harness coupler is a mess. Looks like that resulted in a loose connection and there’s some corrosion in it that doesn’t look good. The wire coming off the NSS is WAY long, making me wonder if it’s an aftermarket replacement. That connector sure does have a case of the green crusties. Some De-oxit and a flux acid brush will clean it up. I suggest packing a bit of dielectric silicone grease in there to keep water out. Every transmission switch I've ever seen goes down the frame rail to the transmission cross member and across. Maybe if you used a few Ty-wraps to route it properly all that slack would be accounted for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 3, 2022 Share Posted October 3, 2022 More of a curiosity than anything for now, but I’m trying to figure out how this hitch works. Looks like the door should come up all the way, and then the ball would pivot up, but I can only get the door about halfway up. Not sure if something is stuck down in there of if I’m just doing it wrong. Who puts a goose neck hitch in a 150 truck? Just never seen it in that light of a truck as most are on 350 and some 250 trucks. I guess the hitch weight would be lighter over the axle as some goes forward to the front axle where a bumper pull is all aft the axle and would add more weight for the same weight of the trailer hitch. Do you know what kind of trailer it pulled, horse, open deck, other? Dave ---- I wondered the same thing. If I were gonna guess, I’d figure a farmer used it to haul horses or hay, but I really have no idea what it’s last like was. The guy I bought it from bought it in 2004 and last registered it in 2005 I think. He bought it as a project that he never got around to (he actually runs a classic car shop, and personal projects just take a backseat to customer projects). As far as I know, it would have been an owner previous to him that used the fifth wheel. I’ll be giving the suspension a good look, but haven’t noticed anything that indicates rough use in its history so far. Very few bumps and bruises on its body. I'm thinking farm vehicle. Wagons full of hay are usually very heavy, but if every trailer you have on the farm is setup for gooseneck it makes a lot of sense to have one in your pickup (if just to move them around) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirkware Posted October 4, 2022 Author Share Posted October 4, 2022 That connector sure does have a case of the green crusties. Some De-oxit and a flux acid brush will clean it up. I suggest packing a bit of dielectric silicone grease in there to keep water out. Every transmission switch I've ever seen goes down the frame rail to the transmission cross member and across. Maybe if you used a few Ty-wraps to route it properly all that slack would be accounted for? Yeah, all the slack was just shoved into one spot on the frame. What you suggest makes much more sense! I’d never heard of de-oxit but that looks like good stuff! I like the idea of using an acid brush too. I should have a few of those somewhere! Given how broken that fitting is, do you think I’ll be able to get it back together solidly once it cleans up? I’m thinking I may have to wrap some good electrical tape around it to hold it together. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 That connector sure does have a case of the green crusties. Some De-oxit and a flux acid brush will clean it up. I suggest packing a bit of dielectric silicone grease in there to keep water out. Every transmission switch I've ever seen goes down the frame rail to the transmission cross member and across. Maybe if you used a few Ty-wraps to route it properly all that slack would be accounted for? Yeah, all the slack was just shoved into one spot on the frame. What you suggest makes much more sense! I’d never heard of de-oxit but that looks like good stuff! I like the idea of using an acid brush too. I should have a few of those somewhere! Given how broken that fitting is, do you think I’ll be able to get it back together solidly once it cleans up? I’m thinking I may have to wrap some good electrical tape around it to hold it together. Thanks again! These connectors take a lot of splash given their location. I'm not so sure I'd want to wrap it, and possibly trap a bunch of moisture under the tape. My first thought would be a thin zip tie fished between the wires at each end of the connectors to hold it tight. If you want to replace the socket Gary has the Motorcraft replacement pigtail catalog filed away somewhere on this site. If you look there and can find the proper one, search for the part number because they are stupid expensive through Motorcraft but they pop up on eBay and other sites often enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 These connectors take a lot of splash given their location. I'm not so sure I'd want to wrap it, and possibly trap a bunch of moisture under the tape. My first thought would be a thin zip tie fished between the wires at each end of the connectors to hold it tight. If you want to replace the socket Gary has the Motorcraft replacement pigtail catalog filed away somewhere on this site. If you look there and can find the proper one, search for the part number because they are stupid expensive through Motorcraft but they pop up on eBay and other sites often enough. Being it has 4 wires if it was that bad where it has to be replaced I think I would go with a flat 4 male / female trailer plug. They are pretty water proof so should stay clean. They are also cheap. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirkware Posted October 4, 2022 Author Share Posted October 4, 2022 Being it has 4 wires if it was that bad where it has to be replaced I think I would go with a flat 4 male / female trailer plug. They are pretty water proof so should stay clean. They are also cheap. Dave ---- From the looks of things, the harness side of the connector just needs cleaned up, it’s the NSS side that’s in bad shape. I’m contemplating just replacing the NSS altogether and eliminate any issues from it. Looks like $30 and shipping will get me one from Rockauto. I’ve had good luck with stuff from Standard Motor Products (I run their points/condenser on my 70 F100). I need belts and hoses anyway so I may just get what I know needs replaced all at once. I guess it would behoove me to look at the brakes. Pretty sure the master cylinder is toast…it’s crusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirkware Posted October 4, 2022 Author Share Posted October 4, 2022 https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n125474/D2533F9E-9F8B-4E58-AE3A-C052DDDF6BDE.jpeg If I wanted to bypass the NSS (for testing only), anyone know how to jumper at this point? Just want to see if this is truly what’s keeping the starter from engaging or if there is something else going on as well. I would only expect an NSS to be two wires, so I’m assuming “range sensor” accounts for there being four? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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