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300 six clutch pivot 💩💩💩😩


Ford F834

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Dave - Thanks for responding. I knew you'd have the right info.

Jonathan - Good luck tomorrow. But if they don't have the mechanical piece see if they have the hydraulic piece awa the pedals and master/slave combo. And even the throwout arm as it is different:

Thanks for those part numbers Gary, and heads up on the differences. The part I would dread the most is I would need the hydro clutch bellhousing and changing that is a JOB… which is x2 if you pull one at a junkyard. That would be more of a long term upgrade if my whole linkage system is a basket case.

Jim, thanks for the overall measurements. I have a feeling I may be fabricating some form of sleeved stud with a 9/16 bolt and jam nut as the core. I was able to get a water delivery arranged (expensive) but should buy me a few days to figure this out 😓

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Thanks for those part numbers Gary, and heads up on the differences. The part I would dread the most is I would need the hydro clutch bellhousing and changing that is a JOB… which is x2 if you pull one at a junkyard. That would be more of a long term upgrade if my whole linkage system is a basket case.

Jim, thanks for the overall measurements. I have a feeling I may be fabricating some form of sleeved stud with a 9/16 bolt and jam nut as the core. I was able to get a water delivery arranged (expensive) but should buy me a few days to figure this out 😓

I gave a real effort this afternoon at working the broken stud out of the block… and it’s not happening. Looks like it is going to have to be drilled and removed with an easy out. The problem is there is no room for a drill… perhaps a very compact right angle drill and a short bit… but I don’t have one.

I’m starting to think the hydraulic conversion might actually be easier 😵‍💫. I will see what the junkyard has for me. I think I can use the pedal shaft out of the 89 IDI parts truck. I would need the bellhousing and release fork out of an 84+ small block, and I would probably be best off with new master and slave cylinders. Anything else? Firewall reinforcement would be a good idea but might have to be added later if I can’t get it quickly.

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I gave a real effort this afternoon at working the broken stud out of the block… and it’s not happening. Looks like it is going to have to be drilled and removed with an easy out. The problem is there is no room for a drill… perhaps a very compact right angle drill and a short bit… but I don’t have one.

I’m starting to think the hydraulic conversion might actually be easier 😵‍💫. I will see what the junkyard has for me. I think I can use the pedal shaft out of the 89 IDI parts truck. I would need the bellhousing and release fork out of an 84+ small block, and I would probably be best off with new master and slave cylinders. Anything else? Firewall reinforcement would be a good idea but might have to be added later if I can’t get it quickly.

Bummer! Sorry that getting the bolt out isn't working. I sure hope the salvage has the bits you need to do the conversion.

As for the parts needed, I think you have it figured out. But a used master/slave would be better than nothing.

Good luck!!!! :nabble_crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig:

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Thanks for those part numbers Gary, and heads up on the differences. The part I would dread the most is I would need the hydro clutch bellhousing and changing that is a JOB… which is x2 if you pull one at a junkyard. That would be more of a long term upgrade if my whole linkage system is a basket case.

Jim, thanks for the overall measurements. I have a feeling I may be fabricating some form of sleeved stud with a 9/16 bolt and jam nut as the core. I was able to get a water delivery arranged (expensive) but should buy me a few days to figure this out 😓

It appears that Dave's new pivot stud has some dimensional differences from the old.:nabble_anim_confused:

It really would be a simple lathe operation from a piece of 1" 4140 hex stock (if we had the taper and shoulder/snap ring groove measurements of the 5/8" stud)

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It appears that Dave's new pivot stud has some dimensional differences from the old.:nabble_anim_confused:

It really would be a simple lathe operation from a piece of 1" 4140 hex stock (if we had the taper and shoulder/snap ring groove measurements of the 5/8" stud)

No dice on the bellhousing or pivot pin at the junkyard. A little bit of asking around is also revealing that the small block hydraulic bellhousing has become scarce and hard to find…. I have passed up so many not thinking I would want one 😞.

I did get a pedal box shaft and master cylinder from an Aeronose, which mounts from studs on the pedal box itself and has a second reinforcement plate on the engine side of the firewall. This extra plate would be better than nothing.

I will continue to look for a hydraulic bellhousing, but I can’t go on a goose chase for one. But I think I have a plan…

I bought a right angle drill adapter at harbor freight for $20 along with a set of short, self drilling easy-out bolt extractors. I am crossing my fingers that this will remove the broken stud.

I bought a 3” and a 3.5” grade 8 bolts, plus a jam nut and a brass spacer and two brass flange bushings. The outer diameter of the brass looks to be very close to the outer diameter of the stock nylon wear point. I realize that the brass may shorten the life of the Z bar, but it should buy me some time. Tomorrow I will give it my best shot.

The junkyard also yielded other finds that I could not pass up. I got another hydroboost since I plan to be run these in three trucks, and they are getting tough to find. Auto parts stores are not carrying them like they used to and having a core to rebuild might be the only option in the future. The same F-Superduty also had a home-fabricated front hitch so I grabbed that. I’m hoping it might fit the frame of my crew cab, but if not it will go on the F450. It looks like the cross bar is low enough to clear the IDI radiator support drop down. There was also a 1982 F250 with power window rosewood door/speaker panels. More stuff to put in storage and bring to a future Garagemahal show I guess 😅

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No dice on the bellhousing or pivot pin at the junkyard. A little bit of asking around is also revealing that the small block hydraulic bellhousing has become scarce and hard to find…. I have passed up so many not thinking I would want one 😞.

I did get a pedal box shaft and master cylinder from an Aeronose, which mounts from studs on the pedal box itself and has a second reinforcement plate on the engine side of the firewall. This extra plate would be better than nothing.

I will continue to look for a hydraulic bellhousing, but I can’t go on a goose chase for one. But I think I have a plan…

I bought a right angle drill adapter at harbor freight for $20 along with a set of short, self drilling easy-out bolt extractors. I am crossing my fingers that this will remove the broken stud.

I bought a 3” and a 3.5” grade 8 bolts, plus a jam nut and a brass spacer and two brass flange bushings. The outer diameter of the brass looks to be very close to the outer diameter of the stock nylon wear point. I realize that the brass may shorten the life of the Z bar, but it should buy me some time. Tomorrow I will give it my best shot.

The junkyard also yielded other finds that I could not pass up. I got another hydroboost since I plan to be run these in three trucks, and they are getting tough to find. Auto parts stores are not carrying them like they used to and having a core to rebuild might be the only option in the future. The same F-Superduty also had a home-fabricated front hitch so I grabbed that. I’m hoping it might fit the frame of my crew cab, but if not it will go on the F450. It looks like the cross bar is low enough to clear the IDI radiator support drop down. There was also a 1982 F250 with power window rosewood door/speaker panels. More stuff to put in storage and bring to a future Garagemahal show I guess 😅

Sounds like a reasonable plan, Stan. Here's hoping the drill and easy-outs will bring the stud out. And that the bolt and brass bushings work. :nabble_crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig:

And those seem like good scores at the salvage. :nabble_smiley_good:

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A little bit of asking around is also revealing that the small block hydraulic bellhousing has become scarce and hard to find…. I have passed up so many not thinking I would want one 😞.

They are getting hard to find. The few trucks I have seen show up at the junkyards here with manual transmissions...that hydraulic clutch bellhousing is one of the very first things that gets scavenged.

I had one of those 300/6 clutch pivot studs one time...a very nice one I removed from a 300 from an '80 or '81 Bullnose. I ended up giving it away on here and Ray Cecil grabbed it. Too bad too, because he sold that truck not all that long after. God knows where that stud ever ended up.

Jon, did you try asking on one of the Facebook groups? I'm sure there are lots of guys on there with junked trucks that would send you a spare stud.

Maybe we need to find a really good used one and have it copied for the sake of science! Gary, I've been meaning to ask...whatever happened to Keith Dickson anyway? Anybody ever talk to him. I figured he'd be a good resource for having scarce parts duplicated. (That reminds me...somebody really needs to come up with a radiator swap kit with brackets etc so that you can easily swap a 1985-1996 radiator into a 1980-1984 Bullnose. Man there have been a lot of people looking for early radiators lately...sorry Jon...didn't mean to hijack!).

Anyway, good luck getting that broken stud out. Did it break off flush with the block casting?

 

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A little bit of asking around is also revealing that the small block hydraulic bellhousing has become scarce and hard to find…. I have passed up so many not thinking I would want one 😞.

They are getting hard to find. The few trucks I have seen show up at the junkyards here with manual transmissions...that hydraulic clutch bellhousing is one of the very first things that gets scavenged.

I had one of those 300/6 clutch pivot studs one time...a very nice one I removed from a 300 from an '80 or '81 Bullnose. I ended up giving it away on here and Ray Cecil grabbed it. Too bad too, because he sold that truck not all that long after. God knows where that stud ever ended up.

Jon, did you try asking on one of the Facebook groups? I'm sure there are lots of guys on there with junked trucks that would send you a spare stud.

Maybe we need to find a really good used one and have it copied for the sake of science! Gary, I've been meaning to ask...whatever happened to Keith Dickson anyway? Anybody ever talk to him. I figured he'd be a good resource for having scarce parts duplicated. (That reminds me...somebody really needs to come up with a radiator swap kit with brackets etc so that you can easily swap a 1985-1996 radiator into a 1980-1984 Bullnose. Man there have been a lot of people looking for early radiators lately...sorry Jon...didn't mean to hijack!).

Anyway, good luck getting that broken stud out. Did it break off flush with the block casting?

Keith was here at the show a few weeks ago. He did ask what's really needed in the Bullnose arena and I'm pretty sure I mentioned this pivot for the 1980 - 83 300 six engines. But to make sure I'll tag him.

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Sounds like a reasonable plan, Stan. Here's hoping the drill and easy-outs will bring the stud out. And that the bolt and brass bushings work. :nabble_crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig:

And those seem like good scores at the salvage. :nabble_smiley_good:

I think I'd try welding a nut to it before I tried drilling it out.

That's got to be some really tough steel.

It would be great if LMC could pick up an item like this.

Even a short run of a couple hundred pieces are substantially less than 'onesies'

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It appears that Dave's new pivot stud has some dimensional differences from the old.:nabble_anim_confused:

It really would be a simple lathe operation from a piece of 1" 4140 hex stock (if we had the taper and shoulder/snap ring groove measurements of the 5/8" stud)

When I "fixed" what I had I did not have the spare for measuring.

also if you look at the fixed one it does not have the flat base that would hit the block when screwed in.

Gary pointed out that the threads most likely bottomed out and that put strain on where the threads were welded to the old pivot.

Jonathan could and I guess I could too if I can find the old parts, where that snap ring groove is and the wall the plastic bushing hits at the other end.

I also dont know if the taper is really needed?

I think if that area was just turned down some so when the motor moves the Zbar would not bind in that area.

I just cant get out to the garage to find the old parts for a day or 2

Dave ----

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