ArdWrknTrk Posted October 2, 2022 Share Posted October 2, 2022 It appears that Dave's new pivot stud has some dimensional differences from the old. It really would be a simple lathe operation from a piece of 1" 4140 hex stock (if we had the taper and shoulder/snap ring groove measurements of the 5/8" stud) When I "fixed" what I had I did not have the spare for measuring. also if you look at the fixed one it does not have the flat base that would hit the block when screwed in. Gary pointed out that the threads most likely bottomed out and that put strain on where the threads were welded to the old pivot. Jonathan could and I guess I could too if I can find the old parts, where that snap ring groove is and the wall the plastic bushing hits at the other end. I also dont know if the taper is really needed? I think if that area was just turned down some so when the motor moves the Zbar would not bind in that area. I just cant get out to the garage to find the old parts for a day or 2 Dave ---- Having that boss on the threaded stud turns flex force into withdrawal. Without it you've created a fulcrum at the thread root. I seriously doubt Ford would have created a taper on the pivot if it weren't needed. As the clutch feeds torque there's definitely going to be some flex in the motor/transmission mounts. I don't have a mechanical clutch truck to look at, nor a decent lathe to spin one up. Thanks for your input Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted October 2, 2022 Author Share Posted October 2, 2022 I think I'd try welding a nut to it before I tried drilling it out. That's got to be some really tough steel. It would be great if LMC could pick up an item like this. Even a short run of a couple hundred pieces are substantially less than 'onesies' Alright folks… The stud was broken below the block surface. Luckily it was not crazy hard. The extractors I bought at harbor freight were useless… they were for rounded out screw heads not broken bolts. Oddly enough they didn’t have regular easy outs. The right angle drill adapter was a great $20 solution though, and the extractor made enough of a dimple that I was able to get a bite on it with a chisel tip and back it out with rotational tapping. Success! The makeshift pivot was not as straightforward as I hoped. I perhaps bought the wrong flange bushings as they did not fit the 9/16” bolt. I was in a rush at true value as I was told the register would be closed down in 5 min and after that no sales… so I was grabbing parts… fast! I had to file the inside diameter from 1/2” to 9/16”. Then I discovered the large spacer was also tight in the Z bar and it needed to be reduced (also about 1/16”). It is not an elegant solution, but it is a viable, get-you-back-on-the-road fix: The clutch actuation is smooth and it shifts great. It will probably require more attention going forward than the nylon bushing, as there is no rubber boot to keep dust and moisture out. I will call it a hack, because that it what it is, but it seems to be a decent one. It will at least buy me some time to find other solutions…and decide the ultimate scope of this truck once I get the others running. I was actually planning to start work on the F-Superduty this weekend ☹️ until other priorities prevailed… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 3, 2022 Share Posted October 3, 2022 Alright folks… The stud was broken below the block surface. Luckily it was not crazy hard. The extractors I bought at harbor freight were useless… they were for rounded out screw heads not broken bolts. Oddly enough they didn’t have regular easy outs. The right angle drill adapter was a great $20 solution though, and the extractor made enough of a dimple that I was able to get a bite on it with a chisel tip and back it out with rotational tapping. Success! The makeshift pivot was not as straightforward as I hoped. I perhaps bought the wrong flange bushings as they did not fit the 9/16” bolt. I was in a rush at true value as I was told the register would be closed down in 5 min and after that no sales… so I was grabbing parts… fast! I had to file the inside diameter from 1/2” to 9/16”. Then I discovered the large spacer was also tight in the Z bar and it needed to be reduced (also about 1/16”). It is not an elegant solution, but it is a viable, get-you-back-on-the-road fix: The clutch actuation is smooth and it shifts great. It will probably require more attention going forward than the nylon bushing, as there is no rubber boot to keep dust and moisture out. I will call it a hack, because that it what it is, but it seems to be a decent one. It will at least buy me some time to find other solutions…and decide the ultimate scope of this truck once I get the others running. I was actually planning to start work on the F-Superduty this weekend ☹️ until other priorities prevailed… Limited success is still SUCCESS Jonathan! The little burro is back to hauling water, for now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 3, 2022 Share Posted October 3, 2022 Alright folks… The stud was broken below the block surface. Luckily it was not crazy hard. The extractors I bought at harbor freight were useless… they were for rounded out screw heads not broken bolts. Oddly enough they didn’t have regular easy outs. The right angle drill adapter was a great $20 solution though, and the extractor made enough of a dimple that I was able to get a bite on it with a chisel tip and back it out with rotational tapping. Success! The makeshift pivot was not as straightforward as I hoped. I perhaps bought the wrong flange bushings as they did not fit the 9/16” bolt. I was in a rush at true value as I was told the register would be closed down in 5 min and after that no sales… so I was grabbing parts… fast! I had to file the inside diameter from 1/2” to 9/16”. Then I discovered the large spacer was also tight in the Z bar and it needed to be reduced (also about 1/16”). It is not an elegant solution, but it is a viable, get-you-back-on-the-road fix: The clutch actuation is smooth and it shifts great. It will probably require more attention going forward than the nylon bushing, as there is no rubber boot to keep dust and moisture out. I will call it a hack, because that it what it is, but it seems to be a decent one. It will at least buy me some time to find other solutions…and decide the ultimate scope of this truck once I get the others running. I was actually planning to start work on the F-Superduty this weekend ☹️ until other priorities prevailed… Well done, Jonathan! That looks like a very good solution, and if the bolt isn't bottoming in the block and you are able to tighten the nut against the block it should hold up well. Does your Z-bar have a grease fitting in it? If not, I'd consider installing one and pumping the thing full of grease every once in a while. That will tend to push the dirt out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 3, 2022 Share Posted October 3, 2022 Well done, Jonathan! That looks like a very good solution, and if the bolt isn't bottoming in the block and you are able to tighten the nut against the block it should hold up well. Does your Z-bar have a grease fitting in it? If not, I'd consider installing one and pumping the thing full of grease every once in a while. That will tend to push the dirt out. As I think about it I see what might be a problem. Since the bushing is a cylinder instead of a sphere, as the engine rocks back and forth it'll try to lift or depress the whole Z-bar. Maybe as long as the engine mounts are good there won't be a problem, but if one of them fails there may well be. Was 7543 rounded? Did it form a sphere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted October 3, 2022 Share Posted October 3, 2022 Alright folks… The stud was broken below the block surface. Luckily it was not crazy hard. The extractors I bought at harbor freight were useless… they were for rounded out screw heads not broken bolts. Oddly enough they didn’t have regular easy outs. The right angle drill adapter was a great $20 solution though, and the extractor made enough of a dimple that I was able to get a bite on it with a chisel tip and back it out with rotational tapping. Success! The makeshift pivot was not as straightforward as I hoped. I perhaps bought the wrong flange bushings as they did not fit the 9/16” bolt. I was in a rush at true value as I was told the register would be closed down in 5 min and after that no sales… so I was grabbing parts… fast! I had to file the inside diameter from 1/2” to 9/16”. Then I discovered the large spacer was also tight in the Z bar and it needed to be reduced (also about 1/16”). It is not an elegant solution, but it is a viable, get-you-back-on-the-road fix: The clutch actuation is smooth and it shifts great. It will probably require more attention going forward than the nylon bushing, as there is no rubber boot to keep dust and moisture out. I will call it a hack, because that it what it is, but it seems to be a decent one. It will at least buy me some time to find other solutions…and decide the ultimate scope of this truck once I get the others running. I was actually planning to start work on the F-Superduty this weekend ☹️ until other priorities prevailed… Great job! Nice fix! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted October 3, 2022 Author Share Posted October 3, 2022 Was 7543 rounded? Did it form a sphere? https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n125410/mechanical-linkage-b_1.jpg Yes, this is approximately spherical, but with a flattened wear point. I am sure it is meant to articulate with frame flex and engine torque twist. My bushing could be forced into the Z bar but was snug. I didn’t want it to stick and not return, and I didn’t want it to bind as you describe. I filed it, and it has some movement but is approximately conical instead of spherical. I am counting on excess tolerance and overall wear in the linkage system to allow it to move. I hope it’s enough 😅. I think I should carry a spare bolt. Also, the stock part is 3” overall. I used a 3” bolt so it is ~3.5” overall. The head gives the Z bar extra leverage in a binding situation. Like I said… this is a fix but probably not a solution. I’m sure there are better ways to make one of these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted October 3, 2022 Share Posted October 3, 2022 Great job! Nice fix! Impressive, Jonathan! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 3, 2022 Share Posted October 3, 2022 Was 7543 rounded? Did it form a sphere? https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n125410/mechanical-linkage-b_1.jpg Yes, this is approximately spherical, but with a flattened wear point. I am sure it is meant to articulate with frame flex and engine torque twist. My bushing could be forced into the Z bar but was snug. I didn’t want it to stick and not return, and I didn’t want it to bind as you describe. I filed it, and it has some movement but is approximately conical instead of spherical. I am counting on excess tolerance and overall wear in the linkage system to allow it to move. I hope it’s enough 😅. I think I should carry a spare bolt. Also, the stock part is 3” overall. I used a 3” bolt so it is ~3.5” overall. The head gives the Z bar extra leverage in a binding situation. Like I said… this is a fix but probably not a solution. I’m sure there are better ways to make one of these. Maybe the looseness will be enough to allow movement w/o binding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted October 3, 2022 Share Posted October 3, 2022 Maybe the looseness will be enough to allow movement w/o binding. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig.png Nice job on a "get me by" fix, kind of like my bolt welded to what was left of the pivot LOL. The only thing I see with the "fix" is it looks like the Zbar is to the frame pivot to far. If you were to hold the motor pivot up I think you will see the Zbar is almost falling off the pivot. Or is it just the way the picture was taken? I think there is a clip that fits the Zbar so it cant move to far to the frame side? This is what that bushing looks like - kind of round to allow for movement of the motor. I should get a picture of mine now that it is working as the factory wanted it to. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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