1984 Canadian F150 - Zero History, Fresh Start

[Periwinkle]

Hello all,

Finally decided to put “pen to paper” and begin documenting getting the blue 1984 F150 roadworthy and drivable. The following are the truck details and a picture of the truck:

• 1984 Ford F150 with approx. 250k km mileage

• 4.9L (300cu-in), six-cylinder (inline-six) engine

• New Process (NP435) manual 4-speed transmission (granny first gear)

• Manufactured February 1984 in Ontario

• 3P Medium Metallic Blue (looks to be re-sprayed or touched up based on paint everywhere, although I don’t personally know where should and shouldn’t have paint, but it is on bolts and everything)

• 2WD with 133” wheelbase – GVWR of 5450 (lbs?)

• Door tag has rear axle code of “18” which I believe corresponds to a ratio of 3.08 with capacity of 3.75M

• Spring code is “A V”

• Brake code is “Class D – 5000-6000 lbs”

Would love some advice on where to start. So far, I have come up with the following list of problems or potential problems. I will need to fix some of these before I can pass safety here in Ontario, Canada:

What I think are necessities to safety:

• Fix rust holes in floor-pan

• Replace driver’s seat belt

• Replace rubber brake lines

• Check entire braking system incl. flush brake fluid, check master cylinder, potentially replace pads/shoes, potentially replace drums/discs, replace drum hardware and wheel cylinders

• Troubleshoot headlights (side lights, brake/reverse lights, indicators work but not headlights)

• Reinstall rear view mirror

What I think are necessary for general maintenance:

• Oil change

• Coolant flush & replacement

• Power steering (replace or just top up?)

• Transmission fluid top up (or complete replacement?)

• Rear axle fluid top up (or replacement?)

• Spark plugs

Other issues with vehicle:

• Rust around rear driver’s wheel-well

• What seems like major oil leaks within engine

• Leaking rear axle – looks to be drive shaft and base of axle

• Idles fairly well but the carb might need a rebuild and the previous owner noted the automagical choke seems off. Takes a few attempts to start from cold (pump gas twice, crank 5-10 seconds, repeat 2-5 times)

• Passenger door won’t unlock from outside, seems to be getting caught

• Replace all door seals and window seals – rotted

• Sliding back window clip is broken

• Various surface rust around the car

• Door inserts are broken/in rough shape

• When the heater is on, it looks like there might be a leak in the heater block because it fogs up the front window and not just regular steam – maybe leak in this system

• Replace all vacuum hoses and any rubber hoses throughout the engine

Complete uncertainties:

• Do I have to do anything with the hydraulic clutch fluid?

• Should I be doing a compression test?

• How do I read the vacuum diagrams? I don’t think this came with the emissions stuff because the
  • Canadian versions apparently didn’t, and it seems to have a standard ignition system
  • What seals can be done in the truck and which ones do I need to take the engine out for? I’m assuming that everything will need to be done at some point but at a minimum, it looks like the oil pan and the valve covers are maybe leaking oil? I assume it would be safest to do the head gasket at some point too based on mileage and unknown history

  Please let me know if there is anything you think I’ve missed in order to make this thing road worthy. Also please let me know if any of these should be done immediately and I haven’t flagged as such. I am struggling to decide on order of some stuff. Coolant looks nasty that’s in there but if I end up needing to replace the heater core, does it make sense to hold off on a coolant flush? Or Should I do this before winter regardless?

  Below are some pictures and descriptions of what I’ve started this past weekend.

  Unbolted the bench seat and ripped out the vinyl floormat and insulation to finally see the damage on the rust:

  Driver's floor:

  

  Driver's door floor seal:

  

  Floor pan connection to firewall beneath pedals?:

  

  

  Passenger floor:

  

  Floor pan connection to firewall passenger side?:

  

  Beneath seat passenger side - transmission hump:

  

  Behind seat:

  

  Pulled the spark plugs to take a look but don't really know what I'm looking at (yellow colour around plug, as well as black carbon or oil looking buildup around plug threads) - in order of front to back, couldn't easily reach closest plug to cab:

  

  

  

  

  

[Periwinkle]

The thing I'd really like to get done ASAP is the floor pans/welding. I was looking on LMC's website but I honestly can't figure out which components I actually need based on the rust. It is hard to tell what is considered "floor pan (numbers 1 & 2) vs. "floor pan - outer section" (numbers 3 & 4) and whether I need rocker panels as well because of the seam rust along the door seals. Also what would I use to patch the hump beneath the seat near the transmission.

Currently "outer section" floor pans are backordered and I don't really want to do multiple orders because of the insane shipping. I've read that LMC has some of the highest quality/best fitting floor pans. Is there anyone else comparable I can order from because of the backordered nature of the parts or do I not need outer pans?

Thanks again for your wisdom everyone!

[ArdWrknTrk]

The thing I'd really like to get done ASAP is the floor pans/welding. I was looking on LMC's website but I honestly can't figure out which components I actually need based on the rust. It is hard to tell what is considered "floor pan (numbers 1 & 2) vs. "floor pan - outer section" (numbers 3 & 4) and whether I need rocker panels as well because of the seam rust along the door seals. Also what would I use to patch the hump beneath the seat near the transmission.

Currently "outer section" floor pans are backordered and I don't really want to do multiple orders because of the insane shipping. I've read that LMC has some of the highest quality/best fitting floor pans. Is there anyone else comparable I can order from because of the backordered nature of the parts or do I not need outer pans?

Thanks again for your wisdom everyone!

I think many of us swear by Tabco body panels.

They are heavy gauge, annealed and galvanized.

Their shipping was very reasonable when I ordered.

They also seem to be plenty oversized, so if you need a small piece for the tunnel you can likely get it from what you trim off to fit.

I don't recall right now but I think the outer floor has a lip for the door weatherstrip.

 

[Rembrant]

Well that's quite a list you've got there...I remember having a few like that myself!

I can't help with everything on your list, but one thing I would say is that if your 300/6 engine is running OK, I'd make any engine work pretty low priority over some of the other items on your list. The old 300 is a pretty sturdy engine, and has a cult like following in the gearhead world. As long as it has oil pressure and runs OK, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Plugs and filters, oil change, sure...but otherwise the rest should be OK.

I don't always practice what I preach, but it's a good idea to put safety items at the top of the list...ie: Brakes, tires, wheel bearings, front end parts, etc.

Sounds like you have a leaky heater core. My '84 was the same when I bought it. The good news is that heater cores are cheap. The bad news is that they're kind of a pain to change on the non-AC trucks. The whole heater box has to be removed (from the engine bay side of the firewall). An important note from your previous pictures is that your truck has the factory High Output heater, so it requires a specific HO heater core. Just be aware of that when ordering. It's not as simple as AC or Non-AC.

Here's what your heater box looks like from the inside. There are 3 studs, and 2 screws attaching it to the firewall.

I think you can buy upgraded/better latches for your sliding rear window. Do you have any junkyards around there like Kenny U-Pull? Rear windows are pretty cheap, and you can swap one in from 1980-1996 (and I believe even before 1980), but some of the later factory windows were really nice. I got one from a 1996 at the local junkyard for $35. Watch a Youtube video...they're easy to change. However, if you can find one of the good metal latches that's definitely an easier route.

If you haven't read up on it yet, do some searches on clutch master cylinder firewall brace. When Ford first switched over to the hydraulic clutch in these pickups (which was 1984 in the F150's), they had issues with the firewalls cracking around the clutch master cylinder. There was a recall and Ford installed braces to strengthen this area....but that was closed off many years ago. You can currently buy a firewall brace from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard. Nothing to worry about right away, but something to put on your list and investigate.

https://shop.broncograveyard.com/83-91-Ford-Bronco-Ford-Truck-Firewall-Clutch-Repair-Bracket/productinfo/34010/

I'm not much help with all the floor panels, but we have a resident expert on here (Dave aka fuzzface) that can help with that stuff. He has done them all, and then some and has lots of pictures.

Good luck with it all. I'll help out where I can.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well that's quite a list you've got there...I remember having a few like that myself!

I can't help with everything on your list, but one thing I would say is that if your 300/6 engine is running OK, I'd make any engine work pretty low priority over some of the other items on your list. The old 300 is a pretty sturdy engine, and has a cult like following in the gearhead world. As long as it has oil pressure and runs OK, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Plugs and filters, oil change, sure...but otherwise the rest should be OK.

I don't always practice what I preach, but it's a good idea to put safety items at the top of the list...ie: Brakes, tires, wheel bearings, front end parts, etc.

Sounds like you have a leaky heater core. My '84 was the same when I bought it. The good news is that heater cores are cheap. The bad news is that they're kind of a pain to change on the non-AC trucks. The whole heater box has to be removed (from the engine bay side of the firewall). An important note from your previous pictures is that your truck has the factory High Output heater, so it requires a specific HO heater core. Just be aware of that when ordering. It's not as simple as AC or Non-AC.

Here's what your heater box looks like from the inside. There are 3 studs, and 2 screws attaching it to the firewall.

I think you can buy upgraded/better latches for your sliding rear window. Do you have any junkyards around there like Kenny U-Pull? Rear windows are pretty cheap, and you can swap one in from 1980-1996 (and I believe even before 1980), but some of the later factory windows were really nice. I got one from a 1996 at the local junkyard for $35. Watch a Youtube video...they're easy to change. However, if you can find one of the good metal latches that's definitely an easier route.

If you haven't read up on it yet, do some searches on clutch master cylinder firewall brace. When Ford first switched over to the hydraulic clutch in these pickups (which was 1984 in the F150's), they had issues with the firewalls cracking around the clutch master cylinder. There was a recall and Ford installed braces to strengthen this area....but that was closed off many years ago. You can currently buy a firewall brace from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard. Nothing to worry about right away, but something to put on your list and investigate.

https://shop.broncograveyard.com/83-91-Ford-Bronco-Ford-Truck-Firewall-Clutch-Repair-Bracket/productinfo/34010/

I'm not much help with all the floor panels, but we have a resident expert on here (Dave aka fuzzface) that can help with that stuff. He has done them all, and then some and has lots of pictures.

Good luck with it all. I'll help out where I can.

The metal replacement latch is CRL DVL2

https://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?Productid=5143&GroupID=2719&History=30587:21770:2715&ModelID=2719

It's under $10 delivered from Amazon, but you can find it many places online.

I have one, Gary does too.

They definitely hold up better than the plastic hinge supplied by Ford.

[Rembrant]

It's under $10 delivered from Amazon, but you can find it many places online.

Right. I knew somebody would have the part number. It shows $17.40 CAN on Amazon Canada, and free shipping if you have Prime. I swapped in a later window with a good latch (Ford finally used good latches in 1994-1996 lol). Otherwise I would have installed this metal one in a heartbeat.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

It's under $10 delivered from Amazon, but you can find it many places online.

Right. I knew somebody would have the part number. It shows $17.40 CAN on Amazon Canada, and free shipping if you have Prime. I swapped in a later window with a good latch (Ford finally used good latches in 1994-1996 lol). Otherwise I would have installed this metal one in a heartbeat.

Thanks for the reality check Cory!

I'm seeing $8.75 here in the U.S., but there's exchange rate and taxes vary state to state...

Edit: Tabco show 60178U as a "cab floor weatherstrip panel" 33x6".

I'm sure they could confirm that if you called.

[Periwinkle]

I think many of us swear by Tabco body panels.

They are heavy gauge, annealed and galvanized.

Their shipping was very reasonable when I ordered.

They also seem to be plenty oversized, so if you need a small piece for the tunnel you can likely get it from what you trim off to fit.

I don't recall right now but I think the outer floor has a lip for the door weatherstrip.

Thank you for the Tabco recommendation, I think I will go with them as it looks like they have what I need in stock and they also have more reasonable shipping and are closer to the border! Also thank you for the clip recommendation, I will grab one of these for now and see how it works out. Will consider a new window as a later project down the road per Rembrant's suggestion. Looks like I should be on my way to preparing the surface and welding in no time. Now I'll just have to refresh myself on my welding skills since it's been over 10 years at least. Definitely will grab some scrap similar gauge metal for practice.

[Periwinkle]

Well that's quite a list you've got there...I remember having a few like that myself!

I can't help with everything on your list, but one thing I would say is that if your 300/6 engine is running OK, I'd make any engine work pretty low priority over some of the other items on your list. The old 300 is a pretty sturdy engine, and has a cult like following in the gearhead world. As long as it has oil pressure and runs OK, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Plugs and filters, oil change, sure...but otherwise the rest should be OK.

I don't always practice what I preach, but it's a good idea to put safety items at the top of the list...ie: Brakes, tires, wheel bearings, front end parts, etc.

Sounds like you have a leaky heater core. My '84 was the same when I bought it. The good news is that heater cores are cheap. The bad news is that they're kind of a pain to change on the non-AC trucks. The whole heater box has to be removed (from the engine bay side of the firewall). An important note from your previous pictures is that your truck has the factory High Output heater, so it requires a specific HO heater core. Just be aware of that when ordering. It's not as simple as AC or Non-AC.

Here's what your heater box looks like from the inside. There are 3 studs, and 2 screws attaching it to the firewall.

I think you can buy upgraded/better latches for your sliding rear window. Do you have any junkyards around there like Kenny U-Pull? Rear windows are pretty cheap, and you can swap one in from 1980-1996 (and I believe even before 1980), but some of the later factory windows were really nice. I got one from a 1996 at the local junkyard for $35. Watch a Youtube video...they're easy to change. However, if you can find one of the good metal latches that's definitely an easier route.

If you haven't read up on it yet, do some searches on clutch master cylinder firewall brace. When Ford first switched over to the hydraulic clutch in these pickups (which was 1984 in the F150's), they had issues with the firewalls cracking around the clutch master cylinder. There was a recall and Ford installed braces to strengthen this area....but that was closed off many years ago. You can currently buy a firewall brace from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard. Nothing to worry about right away, but something to put on your list and investigate.

https://shop.broncograveyard.com/83-91-Ford-Bronco-Ford-Truck-Firewall-Clutch-Repair-Bracket/productinfo/34010/

I'm not much help with all the floor panels, but we have a resident expert on here (Dave aka fuzzface) that can help with that stuff. He has done them all, and then some and has lots of pictures.

Good luck with it all. I'll help out where I can.

Glad to hear I can leave some of the mechanical stuff outside of super basic maintenance for now. Definitely my number 1 priority is getting this thing safetied so that I can license it and get it on the road. Also appreciate the advice on the heater core, the fan is fairly noisy as well so I definitely think it would be good to take the whole unit off anyways and give it a thorough cleaning too.

Also appreciate the link for the firewall bracing. I had read about this but didn't really understand what it would look like or if I had it or not. After looking at the truck, I definitely don't have it and should investigate grabbing it at some point. Seems like a fair enough price for the peace of mind.

Thanks again for all the advice!

[FuzzFace2]

Glad to hear I can leave some of the mechanical stuff outside of super basic maintenance for now. Definitely my number 1 priority is getting this thing safetied so that I can license it and get it on the road. Also appreciate the advice on the heater core, the fan is fairly noisy as well so I definitely think it would be good to take the whole unit off anyways and give it a thorough cleaning too.

Also appreciate the link for the firewall bracing. I had read about this but didn't really understand what it would look like or if I had it or not. After looking at the truck, I definitely don't have it and should investigate grabbing it at some point. Seems like a fair enough price for the peace of mind.

Thanks again for all the advice!

First I am far from an expert

But I stayed in a Holiday inn once

I think the guys nailed everything pretty good.

I used Tabco for the floor pans, rockers, cab corners and that weather strip channel.

I did a 4 year cab off frame rebuild so as it was going back together if it was bad it got replaced or rebuilt.

You have the brake rebuild down. If you replace everything now you know you will not need to look at it again for some time and know it will stop when you want it to.

On the oil leaks because I had the motor out I replaced the oil pan gasket, side cover & valve cover gaskets as I thought they were all leaking. When I got the truck on the road I had another oil leak that took some time to find. It was the gasket at the top of the timing cover.

I replaced gasket and the front seal at that time and so far no oil leaks from the motor.

Here is a link to pictures I took during the rebuild. If you have any questions just ask and when I check in I will try and answer them.

http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100

BTW I love my 300 six and NP435 granny transmission truck.

Dave ----