Giraffe Posted August 1, 2022 Share Posted August 1, 2022 It’s not really the replacement itself, but I’m having a tough time narrowing down the specific replacement bearing I need. Most everything I see online says that I need a bearing with a 35mm ID. However, I’ve measured the bearing on my truck. The front side toward the transmission measures at 40mm, and rear side is a slightly smaller diameter at 30mm. The drive shaft is a Ford part and has the part number E4TA-4K145-AA. The current bearing is dry rotted and has a lot of play. I think it needs replacing because I’m pretty sure it’s the source of a squeaking noise I’m hearing under the bed when accelerating from a stop. Information I found online tells me that the pinion flange is a Spicer 1410. I based this assumption on the rough distance measured between the diagonal centerline of the u-bolts. I don’t see any part number on the bearing itself. My measurements are as follows (approximate): Bearing centerline to mount: 2.63” Distance between mount hole centerlines: 6.6” There a quite a few different bearings available. I just want to make sure I get the right one. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 2, 2022 Share Posted August 2, 2022 The number you find on any Ford part is an engineering or identification number. (the actual part number needs to be decoded from the master parts catalogue or interchange) Gary has the listings here:. https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/drive-shafts.html I see under the last tab "single cardan shaft R&R" on the second page (15-60-2) a section through that bearing that shows it sits on a shoulder between two different diameters. There's even a note that the output side is necked down. I'm on my phone and the pages take too long to load, but you can look up your id number under the cross reference tab to confirm. I would say that 35 sits exactly between the two numbers you can measure and likely is the correct ID. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted August 3, 2022 Share Posted August 3, 2022 The number you find on any Ford part is an engineering or identification number. (the actual part number needs to be decoded from the master parts catalogue or interchange) Gary has the listings here:. https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/drive-shafts.html I see under the last tab "single cardan shaft R&R" on the second page (15-60-2) a section through that bearing that shows it sits on a shoulder between two different diameters. There's even a note that the output side is necked down. I'm on my phone and the pages take too long to load, but you can look up your id number under the cross reference tab to confirm. I would say that 35 sits exactly between the two numbers you can measure and likely is the correct ID. I’m pretty sure it’s the source of a squeaking noise I’m hearing under the bed when accelerating from a stop. If it sounds like a bird chirping it is a Ujoint that is going bad. Look close at them for rust as that noise it running dry and rust forums. The next thing that will happen is a vibration when taking off from a stop or driving under power. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giraffe Posted August 3, 2022 Author Share Posted August 3, 2022 I’m pretty sure it’s the source of a squeaking noise I’m hearing under the bed when accelerating from a stop. If it sounds like a bird chirping it is a Ujoint that is going bad. Look close at them for rust as that noise it running dry and rust forums. The next thing that will happen is a vibration when taking off from a stop or driving under power. Dave ---- Interesting. I had ruled that out because there is absolutely no play in any of the u-joints. The truck only has 55,000 miles. I've had vehicles with bad u-joints before; in those cases, I never heard any squeaking. Only drivetrain vibrations that would get worse as speed increased. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giraffe Posted August 4, 2022 Author Share Posted August 4, 2022 I’m pretty sure it’s the source of a squeaking noise I’m hearing under the bed when accelerating from a stop. If it sounds like a bird chirping it is a Ujoint that is going bad. Look close at them for rust as that noise it running dry and rust forums. The next thing that will happen is a vibration when taking off from a stop or driving under power. Dave ---- Interesting. I had ruled that out because there is absolutely no play in any of the u-joints. The truck only has 55,000 miles. I've had vehicles with bad u-joints before; in those cases, I never heard any squeaking. Only drivetrain vibrations that would get worse as speed increased. I haven't torn into it just yet, but I did find what looks like a reputable driveline shop in Little Rock. I'm thinking I may just remove the entire assembly and have them install new u-joints, balance everything, and throw on a new support bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giraffe Posted August 7, 2022 Author Share Posted August 7, 2022 I’m pretty sure it’s the source of a squeaking noise I’m hearing under the bed when accelerating from a stop. If it sounds like a bird chirping it is a Ujoint that is going bad. Look close at them for rust as that noise it running dry and rust forums. The next thing that will happen is a vibration when taking off from a stop or driving under power. Dave ---- Interesting. I had ruled that out because there is absolutely no play in any of the u-joints. The truck only has 55,000 miles. I've had vehicles with bad u-joints before; in those cases, I never heard any squeaking. Only drivetrain vibrations that would get worse as speed increased. Well, I’m thinking fuzz face is probably right. Remember, there was no play in the u-joints that I could feel with the driveshaft installed and the parking brake set. You can imagine my surprise when I removed the u-bolts and one of the caps immediately fell off and revealed this. So, I’m going to stick with the plan. I’m going to take the driveshaft and stub shaft to a local driveline place and have them install new u-joints and a bearing and balance the whole thing. I’m also hoping this cures other driveline vibrations I’ve noticed since having new tires installed with an alignment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 7, 2022 Share Posted August 7, 2022 Well, I’m thinking fuzz face is probably right. Remember, there was no play in the u-joints that I could feel with the driveshaft installed and the parking brake set. You can imagine my surprise when I removed the u-bolts and one of the caps immediately fell off and revealed this. So, I’m going to stick with the plan. I’m going to take the driveshaft and stub shaft to a local driveline place and have them install new u-joints and a bearing and balance the whole thing. I’m also hoping this cures other driveline vibrations I’ve noticed since having new tires installed with an alignment. So, no "needle dust" came out? Yikes, that u-joint is G.O.N.E! New ones will fix a whole lot of problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted August 8, 2022 Share Posted August 8, 2022 So, no "needle dust" came out? Yikes, that u-joint is G.O.N.E! New ones will fix a whole lot of problems. I hate to say "I told you so" but I told you so That little bird chirping noise under power from a stop and getting faster as you go faster is a sure sign of a bad joint. I have also had them vibrate when taking off from a stop with out noise too. As Gary said I bet a whole lot of vibration & noise will be gone now. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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