Diary of a Restore (Thread)

[AmericanSavage]

Yes, that would certainly explain the vacuum leak. And I'm glad you were able to find a new replacement, as well as all the parts from the salvage.

As for the D8 part, there is something different in it from the E0 part or Ford wouldn't have given it a new part number. I'll admit it looks like it'll fit, but that doesn't mean it'll work. Some place there is a table that shows the vacuum routing in each position of the lever for the Bullnose trucks. That's determined by the ridges on the black piece in your pic, and it is possible that it is different for the D8 part than the E0 part.

I am still looking for the diagram of the 9 port Ford car piece. Will update if I find.

I started thinking—I have 2 white/yellow body 19b888b vacuum bodies. And I rescued 1 extra control from the pick. I have the pieces that broke on mine. It snapped off just above the retaining washer. The rest seems to still work—the lever and the round disk with the rubber routing based on position. So, why would not this work? (below) It has enough clearance on both sides. I used a ¼ 2” long bolt, washers, and a nylon locking nut. Needs to be that long to get ahold of the spring and compress it.

IF most break in this way, I do not see why anyone would need to look into a swap. Cheap and easy mod.?

[Gary Lewis]

I am still looking for the diagram of the 9 port Ford car piece. Will update if I find.

I started thinking—I have 2 white/yellow body 19b888b vacuum bodies. And I rescued 1 extra control from the pick. I have the pieces that broke on mine. It snapped off just above the retaining washer. The rest seems to still work—the lever and the round disk with the rubber routing based on position. So, why would not this work? (below) It has enough clearance on both sides. I used a ¼ 2” long bolt, washers, and a nylon locking nut. Needs to be that long to get ahold of the spring and compress it.

IF most break in this way, I do not see why anyone would need to look into a swap. Cheap and easy mod.?

I think that should work nicely.

[FuzzFace2]

I think that should work nicely.

Do you have a fix for the broken plastic studs the nuts go on to hold the hose manifold to that switch?

Dave ----

[AmericanSavage]

Do you have a fix for the broken plastic studs the nuts go on to hold the hose manifold to that switch?

Dave ----

Hey Dave,

You mean these ears on the vacuum unit 19b888B? Or do you mean the control itself?

[AmericanSavage]

Well here we go again!

I have been a bit absent lately because of an issue that came up, not unexpected. The issue is why I have not pursued the 70s 9 port vacuum unit that was on ford cars until 1979.

A few days ago I noticed a small wet spot under the truck on P side.

Crawled under, and sure enough—antifreeze coming from a freeze plug behind the motor mount.

[Gary Lewis]

Well here we go again!

I have been a bit absent lately because of an issue that came up, not unexpected. The issue is why I have not pursued the 70s 9 port vacuum unit that was on ford cars until 1979.

A few days ago I noticed a small wet spot under the truck on P side.

Crawled under, and sure enough—antifreeze coming from a freeze plug behind the motor mount.

[AmericanSavage]

These trucks are onions - you peel and cry, peel and cry. But soon you have enough for a Bloomin' Onion!

Yes, I've changed a soft plug out with the engine still in the truck, and while I think it was a 351M I can't say for sure. However, while I do have an engine hoist I didn't use it. Instead I jacked the engine up with a block of wood under the harmonic balancer and then stuck wood between the crossmember and the pan as a safety. The reason for the safety is that the balancer being round means the block could slip, but even if you use a shop crane you need some kind of safety.

And I don't remember pulling the exhaust manifolds. I may have dropped the exhaust, but I'm pretty sure I didn't pull the manifolds - that's asking for trouble and I try to avoid doing that.

But I think I pulled the outside edge of the fender liner loose and worked through an opening there on one of them. I distinctly remember it being next to impossible to get directly on the new plug to drive it in w/o coming through the wheelwell.

EDIT: Meant to congratulate you on at least one problem solved.

Hey Gary,

I have the leak halted--as least for now thanks to Blue Devil. BUT, I am not going to let this problem slide. I would like to get at it before the cold comes.

However my fitment/exhaust is, even with my fender liner, which is not in the way, the exhaust blocks the bolt. I may try from above. In other words, I am trying to figure out how to get a socket on the top of the triangle to remove the bolt, and then see if I can actually screw it back on. At this time, I have not figured that out. So, I may end up removing the exhaust--I am speaking of pass side here mostly as that is the side that was leaking, and I can see with a light, the most forward plug has evidence of spew.

I do not need to remove the exhaust to replace the plugs--they will be accessible from below I am quite confident--there will be room to tap them in, but only if the bracket AND mount is totally removed.

 

On the electrical--thank you. I t is rather amazing to me how a simple ground issue solves a plethora of problems.

[Gary Lewis]

These trucks are onions - you peel and cry, peel and cry. But soon you have enough for a Bloomin' Onion!

Yes, I've changed a soft plug out with the engine still in the truck, and while I think it was a 351M I can't say for sure. However, while I do have an engine hoist I didn't use it. Instead I jacked the engine up with a block of wood under the harmonic balancer and then stuck wood between the crossmember and the pan as a safety. The reason for the safety is that the balancer being round means the block could slip, but even if you use a shop crane you need some kind of safety.

And I don't remember pulling the exhaust manifolds. I may have dropped the exhaust, but I'm pretty sure I didn't pull the manifolds - that's asking for trouble and I try to avoid doing that.

But I think I pulled the outside edge of the fender liner loose and worked through an opening there on one of them. I distinctly remember it being next to impossible to get directly on the new plug to drive it in w/o coming through the wheelwell.

EDIT: Meant to congratulate you on at least one problem solved.

Hey Gary,

I have the leak halted--as least for now thanks to Blue Devil. BUT, I am not going to let this problem slide. I would like to get at it before the cold comes.

However my fitment/exhaust is, even with my fender liner, which is not in the way, the exhaust blocks the bolt. I may try from above. In other words, I am trying to figure out how to get a socket on the top of the triangle to remove the bolt, and then see if I can actually screw it back on. At this time, I have not figured that out. So, I may end up removing the exhaust--I am speaking of pass side here mostly as that is the side that was leaking, and I can see with a light, the most forward plug has evidence of spew.

I do not need to remove the exhaust to replace the plugs--they will be accessible from below I am quite confident--there will be room to tap them in, but only if the bracket AND mount is totally removed.

 

On the electrical--thank you. I t is rather amazing to me how a simple ground issue solves a plethora of problems.

I frequently put nuts in sockets with a paper towel so the nut stays in. But good luck to you!

[BigBrother-84]

I frequently put nuts in sockets with a paper towel so the nut stays in. But good luck to you!

Just an idea, never tested it, but I'm curious to know if somebody ever tried to magnetize a socket same we can do with a screwdriver?

[Gary Lewis]

I frequently put nuts in sockets with a paper towel so the nut stays in. But good luck to you!

Just an idea, never tested it, but I'm curious to know if somebody ever tried to magnetize a socket same we can do with a screwdriver?

I've not tried that. But it would be cool if you could - assuming it would hold a nut in rather than eject it.