Diary of a Restore (Thread)

[mat in tn]

First, let’s start off with the good news: The glass is in. I was so busy with the bodywork I had forgotten to check out the molding around the windshield. I had the original I pulled off, and looking at it, it was, let’s say, spent. If I knew if it could be “rechromed” I would do it.

However, 2 months ago, I was searching at local Pick-Pull for something and came across a 1986 150. Molding looked great, and since I see at LMC a full set is $650!!!!!! I decided to snag it. $20.

So, while the guys were prepping the window and installing the new clips (what a pain I had no idea it was that difficult!) I polished that I took at the Pick-Pull. Looks much better than original. Question: My set is structurally great, but since these are aluminum (I think?) how can one send them off for resurfacing in chrome like finish? Would a Chrome shop work? I know of a great one in FL.

Anyway, now the problem news: after they left, I worked on getting the new wipers on…and when I fired up the truck, my wipers went batty. My washer pump also did not work. The wipers would not turn off/park. The “off” position seemed like intermittent. The motor is “new” so, I figured it had to be the switch. I checked Gary’s place on this issue of wipers. Upon looking at the schematic, that wire which disconnected itself from the plug is for the washer—blck/white!

This morning I crawled under the dash…I saw an intermittent module (I did not know was in the truck—I figured it was all non intermitent always). The module was completely unplugged. It was mounted to the dash over the hood release, so I bet the park brake bang at some point damaged it and the previous owners just cut it out of the system. I found the snipped ground wire from the original intermittent switch they left on the bolt.

I then went about removing the switch, and when I did, the switch disintegrated. BUT, on the plug I notice one wire was loose and out of the plug. I think that is the washer wire, but could it effect the park function? Gary’s schematic in the wiper sections suggests NYET! Pics below.

I do have a question: The plug under the dash has 6 terminals. The non int switch has 6 terminals.

The module plug (the non red one) that goes to that plug has 7 terminals. What is this extra terminal? I know I have missed something here.

OK, another problem to be solved. I have order both a new int relay module and a new int switch. Dash is apart again

I'm pretty sure from memory that the wire is to the pump. the park portion of the circuit is in the motor by means of an eccentric cam contact until the arm reaches the spot where the contacts get released. I hope I explained that well. just a tip to any and all doing a windshield. have all trim ready and new clips too if needed. let the glass co. do it from start to finish! don't void their warranty!!!

[AmericanSavage]

I'm pretty sure from memory that the wire is to the pump. the park portion of the circuit is in the motor by means of an eccentric cam contact until the arm reaches the spot where the contacts get released. I hope I explained that well. just a tip to any and all doing a windshield. have all trim ready and new clips too if needed. let the glass co. do it from start to finish! don't void their warranty!!!

Hey Mat in TN,

I have no doubt the reason my washer did not work was because of this detached wire. The non park function has me a little concerned. I never take for granted new = no problem here. Yet the switch did fall apart on me, so, I figured, I am going to replace the switch, and since I found the unused int. delay, I opted for total replace. If this does not work, then the new motor gets sent back. I have the old motor, but it whines loudly and is original near as I can tell.

On Gary’s excellent wiper page, he mentions that one should not bolt the int relay unit to the dash because the fragile nature of the interior relay/delay. The park brake shakes the entire dash when released if not impeded. I bet this is how it failed and some owner before said to heck with it, and went cheap non-int.

Gary rec. that this unit be zip tied in suspension to something else under the dash to minimize shock. This is wise advice and one I will follow.

There are two places I see that sell the int relay device—Bronco graveyard—a great place to get the emblem barrel nuts, btw—and Dennis Carpenter. DC is near me. So I ordered from them.

[mat in tn]

Hey Mat in TN,

I have no doubt the reason my washer did not work was because of this detached wire. The non park function has me a little concerned. I never take for granted new = no problem here. Yet the switch did fall apart on me, so, I figured, I am going to replace the switch, and since I found the unused int. delay, I opted for total replace. If this does not work, then the new motor gets sent back. I have the old motor, but it whines loudly and is original near as I can tell.

On Gary’s excellent wiper page, he mentions that one should not bolt the int relay unit to the dash because the fragile nature of the interior relay/delay. The park brake shakes the entire dash when released if not impeded. I bet this is how it failed and some owner before said to heck with it, and went cheap non-int.

Gary rec. that this unit be zip tied in suspension to something else under the dash to minimize shock. This is wise advice and one I will follow.

There are two places I see that sell the int relay device—Bronco graveyard—a great place to get the emblem barrel nuts, btw—and Dennis Carpenter. DC is near me. So I ordered from them.

the example has been used more than once "peeling the onion" meaning many layers of problems to verify on restoration of old trucks. brand makes no difference!

one point I make often is to fix what you know is broken first and sometimes that is the end of it. sometimes it just moves you on to the next link in the chain.

I deal with people who want to decide what the problem is all too often, and it just adds to the frustration. back to basics every time. when dealing with electrics, get a simple test light and verify a good known ground for it then verify each component or connection from the non-working device on back to where you find 12v again. slow and methodical and it gets easier each time. a spare marker light and wire connector and you now have a test light.

ps. don't use the factory ground of the same device you are diagnosing. if you have a bad ground then your test may not be good. run a wire all the way to battery neg if need be. this also helps find a bad ground of that device at the same time.

[FuzzFace2]

the example has been used more than once "peeling the onion" meaning many layers of problems to verify on restoration of old trucks. brand makes no difference!

one point I make often is to fix what you know is broken first and sometimes that is the end of it. sometimes it just moves you on to the next link in the chain.

I deal with people who want to decide what the problem is all too often, and it just adds to the frustration. back to basics every time. when dealing with electrics, get a simple test light and verify a good known ground for it then verify each component or connection from the non-working device on back to where you find 12v again. slow and methodical and it gets easier each time. a spare marker light and wire connector and you now have a test light.

ps. don't use the factory ground of the same device you are diagnosing. if you have a bad ground then your test may not be good. run a wire all the way to battery neg if need be. this also helps find a bad ground of that device at the same time.

When my washer did not work I found the wire had power when you it should work and the pump would work if jumped to power so it had a bad connection wire at the pump.

I went to use the pump the other day and it did not work but have not looked into why yet.

Dave ----

[AmericanSavage]

Hey Mat in TN,

I have no doubt the reason my washer did not work was because of this detached wire. The non park function has me a little concerned. I never take for granted new = no problem here. Yet the switch did fall apart on me, so, I figured, I am going to replace the switch, and since I found the unused int. delay, I opted for total replace. If this does not work, then the new motor gets sent back. I have the old motor, but it whines loudly and is original near as I can tell.

On Gary’s excellent wiper page, he mentions that one should not bolt the int relay unit to the dash because the fragile nature of the interior relay/delay. The park brake shakes the entire dash when released if not impeded. I bet this is how it failed and some owner before said to heck with it, and went cheap non-int.

Gary rec. that this unit be zip tied in suspension to something else under the dash to minimize shock. This is wise advice and one I will follow.

There are two places I see that sell the int relay device—Bronco graveyard—a great place to get the emblem barrel nuts, btw—and Dennis Carpenter. DC is near me. So I ordered from them.

While I am waiting for wiper parts to arrive, I received the gasket from DK Hardware. The part number is WBL 1158. It is a PRECISION gasket for the back window, which I did not know from the Laurence website which manufactured my slider. They recommend this gasket with their sliders for this year truck.

So, when it arrived, it was package by Precision. It is their gasket. They list it for over $100. I got it for $27.

This gasket looked better and more robust. The outer seal looked about ½” wider than the LMC. I was hopeful.

The LMC gasket went in the truck easy. This one did NOT, which means it was meant for the truck I suppose. It took more open hand hitting to seat it from the outside to inside. Each time it “popped” in a little more and the corners molded on the outside to the radius. The soapy water helped.

At any rate, MOLTO BENE! Pics can tell the rest of the story.

As an aside, LMC sent me the wrong vent window gaskets and I am waiting to hear from them when they will send new ones, if they do at all—quality control or some such is looking into it. Otherwise, the doors would be hung. More waiting.

 

[Gary Lewis]

While I am waiting for wiper parts to arrive, I received the gasket from DK Hardware. The part number is WBL 1158. It is a PRECISION gasket for the back window, which I did not know from the Laurence website which manufactured my slider. They recommend this gasket with their sliders for this year truck.

So, when it arrived, it was package by Precision. It is their gasket. They list it for over $100. I got it for $27.

This gasket looked better and more robust. The outer seal looked about ½” wider than the LMC. I was hopeful.

The LMC gasket went in the truck easy. This one did NOT, which means it was meant for the truck I suppose. It took more open hand hitting to seat it from the outside to inside. Each time it “popped” in a little more and the corners molded on the outside to the radius. The soapy water helped.

At any rate, MOLTO BENE! Pics can tell the rest of the story.

As an aside, LMC sent me the wrong vent window gaskets and I am waiting to hear from them when they will send new ones, if they do at all—quality control or some such is looking into it. Otherwise, the doors would be hung. More waiting.

Thanks for sharing that. I'd read that many people have had that problem, so it is really good to know that there is a good gasket for the sliders.

[mat in tn]

Thanks for sharing that. I'd read that many people have had that problem, so it is really good to know that there is a good gasket for the sliders.

very good to hear. much better fit and it seems precision is the name to remember

[grumpin]

While I am waiting for wiper parts to arrive, I received the gasket from DK Hardware. The part number is WBL 1158. It is a PRECISION gasket for the back window, which I did not know from the Laurence website which manufactured my slider. They recommend this gasket with their sliders for this year truck.

So, when it arrived, it was package by Precision. It is their gasket. They list it for over $100. I got it for $27.

This gasket looked better and more robust. The outer seal looked about ½” wider than the LMC. I was hopeful.

The LMC gasket went in the truck easy. This one did NOT, which means it was meant for the truck I suppose. It took more open hand hitting to seat it from the outside to inside. Each time it “popped” in a little more and the corners molded on the outside to the radius. The soapy water helped.

At any rate, MOLTO BENE! Pics can tell the rest of the story.

As an aside, LMC sent me the wrong vent window gaskets and I am waiting to hear from them when they will send new ones, if they do at all—quality control or some such is looking into it. Otherwise, the doors would be hung. More waiting.

That looks nice!

[AmericanSavage]

While I am waiting for wiper parts to arrive, I received the gasket from DK Hardware. The part number is WBL 1158. It is a PRECISION gasket for the back window, which I did not know from the Laurence website which manufactured my slider. They recommend this gasket with their sliders for this year truck.

So, when it arrived, it was package by Precision. It is their gasket. They list it for over $100. I got it for $27.

This gasket looked better and more robust. The outer seal looked about ½” wider than the LMC. I was hopeful.

The LMC gasket went in the truck easy. This one did NOT, which means it was meant for the truck I suppose. It took more open hand hitting to seat it from the outside to inside. Each time it “popped” in a little more and the corners molded on the outside to the radius. The soapy water helped.

At any rate, MOLTO BENE! Pics can tell the rest of the story.

As an aside, LMC sent me the wrong vent window gaskets and I am waiting to hear from them when they will send new ones, if they do at all—quality control or some such is looking into it. Otherwise, the doors would be hung. More waiting.

I dreaded hanging the doors. Will post more extensively on this in a day or so. However, the hoist was a saver of a lot of time. Easy on easy off. The door stayed near for quick attachment and check on realignment. Cannot rec. this method enough. Saved a ton of headaches.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I dreaded hanging the doors. Will post more extensively on this in a day or so. However, the hoist was a saver of a lot of time. Easy on easy off. The door stayed near for quick attachment and check on realignment. Cannot rec. this method enough. Saved a ton of headaches.

Cool!

But why didn't I think of that?